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Transmission shaft quiestion.
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Redvolk65
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:52 pm    Post subject: Transmission shaft quiestion. Reply with quote

Happy New Year to Everybody.
Hello Guys I Have a 73 super with a 1600 single port,today i was removing the -
-Engine to Replace for a dual port but my problem is The transmission shaft was stick to the Engine it came out far from the transmission,with a lot wigling and pulling finally got it free,now engine is out but when i pull the transmission shaft
with my hand it came out like 2 inches is this NORMAl or the trans is DOOMED.
please help.thank you
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larryvance66
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, I don't think that should move 2"! Shocked Howw about a pic to show us what you're seeing.
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Redvolk65
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

larryvance66 wrote:
No, I don't think that should move 2"! Shocked Howw about a pic to show us what you're seeing.

OK I will do it later
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retterath
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clutch disk can rust to the splines of the input shaft, making installation/ removal difficult.
The input shaft is supported by the pilot bearing in the gland nut. When the engine is removed there will be a scary amount of movement side to side/ up and down. Perfectly normal.
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Dougy Dee
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's not normal. You've probably sheared the 7mm stud that aligns the input shaft with the main shaft.
Remove the trans and remove the drive cup/flange and cover on the starter side of the trans. There is a coupler and a circlip there that will also need reinstall.
Good luck
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gears
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is a broken stud, it's because whoever installed it tightened it up to "feel solid". IMHO, backing off only a spline or two is not enough. Engine weight can snap the stud if the shafts leverage against one another. Our company has sold hundreds of custom Porsche racing mainshafts using the same 7mm stud and we've never broken one. That's because we tell the installer to back off a full quarter turn and let it feel sloppy. VW's newer replacement stud is better, as it has a centering feature.
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ekimthemad
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's most likely not going to work for him if he has a 73 ssc trans. He'll have to pull both drive cups the left side cover and diff to get to the input shaft.

Mike

Dougy Dee wrote:
That's not normal. You've probably sheared the 7mm stud that aligns the input shaft with the main shaft.
Remove the trans and remove the drive cup/flange and cover on the starter side of the trans. There is a coupler and a circlip there that will also need reinstall.
Good luck

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Redvolk65
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you guys for Repply.but what can cause this? a week before I was backing up, and for no reason it pop out.Im replacing the Engine Becouse Bad End play.is this had anything to do?
#1 Shaft in.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

#2 Shaft out I pulled with my Hand.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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jhoefer
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As they've said you've probably sheared the stud holding the input shaft to the mainshaft. You'll need to get inside the trans to fix it. That'll tell you the cause, most likely the circlip came off or broke allowing the reverse gear to walk off the splines between the input shaft and mainshaft. Fortunately it's just under the side cover so you only have to pull the diff out, you don't have to mess with the gear stack.

Pics of how the input shaft is connected to the main shaft using the reverse gear to hold the splines together: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5717907#5717907
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Redvolk65
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhoefer wrote:
As they've said you've probably sheared the stud holding the input shaft to the mainshaft. You'll need to get inside the trans to fix it. That'll tell you the cause, most likely the circlip came off or broke allowing the reverse gear to walk off the splines between the input shaft and mainshaft. Fortunately it's just under the side cover so you only have to pull the diff out, you don't have to mess with the gear stack.

Pics of how the input shaft is connected to the main shaft using the reverse gear to hold the splines together: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5717907#5717907

hey thanks but how do you do that,transmission down??
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Redvolk65
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got this used transmission would it work? or do I have to do any changes for a dual port engine?? the seller said is in good cond.
#1
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

#2
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

#3
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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jhoefer
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Redvolk65 wrote:
I just got this used transmission would it work? or do I have to do any changes for a dual port engine?? the seller said is in good cond.


Are you wanting to use it for parts to fix the original or were you just going to swap the entire transmission.

If swapping the whole thing, it looks to be an AH code box (the number stamped below the VW symbol in your last pic) which has slightly different gear ratios, but you probably won't notice much difference. One problem is that the second trans has an early style throwout bearing, but your original has the late style. There are 2 ways to fix that but the simplest is to install an early style clutch pressure plate with a centering ring (if you don't have one around). See the differences here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5298554#5298554 Second problem is I don't think the transmission mounts are the same and I don't know the specifics on what it would take to get the second box to mount in the car. Though since you have the rear cradle for the second transmission, I think you can either weld on a new front mount on the chassis to fit the second trans' mount or you can swap the original nose cone onto the second transmission to fit the original chassis mount. Second option's easier.

Personally, I'd try to fix the original box as it's stronger overall.
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