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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:30 am Post subject: |
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Mr D, that red wire is 8ga, plenty for any amperage I want in the front. I plan to have a small sub/amp in the bank, this will get its own separate feed as well. Everything routed through a 200a circuit breaker at the battery.
the blue 12v feed wiring to the headlight relays (H4 conversion) is 10ga.
Just doing the amperage draw range:
35w bulbs will draw about 3a each. 55w bulbs will draw about 4.6a each. In either case the amperage is within wire gauge limits. _________________ My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3542 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:32 am Post subject: |
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So you have 3 separate wires running up to the front fuse box from the battery?
Compared to the stock 1 Wire.
right? _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
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1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:33 am Post subject: |
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Mr.Duncan wrote: |
TX-73 wrote: |
I also decided I wanted the grilles on either side of the speedo to be body color. |
glove box door too? |
yup that was painted at the same time as the car I think all this will be a nice contrast in the dash. _________________ My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:36 am Post subject: |
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Mr.Duncan wrote: |
So you have 3 separate wires running up to the front fuse box from the battery?
Compared to the stock 1 Wire.
right? |
I've got whatever the replacement wire harness provides as feed(s) to the fusebox. Then I have the 8 ga wire for the ATO fuses. I also added 2 10ga wires from the engine all way to the front, one will be used for AC, the other is an extra.
I've still got some additional interior/exterior wiring to do for courtesy LED lighting
I remember also your advice on double feeds for the 90a alternator. _________________ My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3542 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:44 am Post subject: |
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TX-73 wrote: |
Mr.Duncan wrote: |
So you have 3 separate wires running up to the front fuse box from the battery?
Compared to the stock 1 Wire.
right? |
I've got whatever the replacement wire harness provides as feed(s) to the fusebox. Then I have the 8 ga wire for the ATO fuses. I also added 2 10ga wires from the engine all way to the front, one will be used for AC, the other is an extra.
I've still got some additional interior/exterior wiring to do for courtesy LED lighting
I remember also your advice on double feeds for the 90a alternator. |
I forgot to ask, I know your electrical system will be 100% new, So will you be running a relay for the starter?
You shouldn't see symptoms for about 40+ years, But its cheap, And keeps that nice ignition switch of yours safe. I used my rear de-froster relay for this, since the grid is dead, but it makes it look "stock" under the back seat. Just moved some wires around! _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:19 am Post subject: |
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Yes, I happen to have a Ford solenoid that I can easily adapt for this. That was my plan. I know that the stock setup functions pretty well but as I modify the engine I would prefer to have direct battery voltage to the starter. Plus it's all apart, how much easier could it be to get this done! _________________ My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3542 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:25 am Post subject: |
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TX-73 wrote: |
Yes, I happen to have a Ford solenoid that I can easily adapt for this. That was my plan. I know that the stock setup functions pretty well but as I modify the engine I would prefer to have direct battery voltage to the starter. Plus it's all apart, how much easier could it be to get this done! |
If its the ford style, I Kinda Dislike those for VW's Its a large relay/Solenoid.
It still puts quite a bit of Amps through the starter switch, compaired to the bosch style relay.
But. That's just my opinion. That's all.
It still Does save your ignition switch comapired to having it straight to the starter solenoid however. _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 9:15 am Post subject: |
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Mr.Duncan wrote: |
TX-73 wrote: |
Yes, I happen to have a Ford solenoid that I can easily adapt for this. That was my plan. I know that the stock setup functions pretty well but as I modify the engine I would prefer to have direct battery voltage to the starter. Plus it's all apart, how much easier could it be to get this done! |
If its the ford style, I Kinda Dislike those for VW's Its a large relay/Solenoid.
It still puts quite a bit of Amps through the starter switch, compaired to the bosch style relay.
But. That's just my opinion. That's all.
It still Does save your ignition switch comapired to having it straight to the starter solenoid however. |
Mr D, please send a link to the B-style relay? I like the Ford versions actually because they are pretty robust, but I don't see how they are putting a lot of amps through the switch as I see it as only energizing the relay. But I'm interested in the other relay you mentioned as well. thanks!
EDIT - ah, I think you're referring to what I call a standard 5-pin relay. I prefer the larger solenoid to accommodate the battery cable (larger) guage wiring. _________________ My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3542 Location: Houston, TX
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3542 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 9:33 am Post subject: |
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TX-73 wrote: |
What you have shown is a relay that routes 12v to the starter solenoid itself. I've got about a dozen of them that I can use. |
Exactly, because the Ignition switch normally takes the "grunt" of the amps from the starter solenoid (plus the 20 feet of wire to-and-from)
The relay bypasses all of that wire, and saves your ignition switch.
And, If it were to ever go out, in a pinch you can use a headlight relay in that spot.
But I have yet to see that happen.
Another common issue, is the ground strap from chassis to transaxle.
After replacing those, the starter REALLY preforms well.
but since your car is basically new now, you wont have that issue! _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 7:05 am Post subject: |
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Minor updates
I added another relay for the lo beam headlights, installed at the right end of the fuseblock. This gives 1 relay for both hi beams, then a separate relay each for left/right lo beams. Not a big deal to lose both hi beams but this way if a fuse/relay goes out, it still leaves the other lo beam light on.
The black connectors you see are the 12v feeds from the relays to the 3 headlight circuits (hi, lo1, lo2).
I also installed the dash grilles, I like the blue contrast against the black. I'm undecided about the space for the Fasten Seatbelt light, I may install something else in that slot, could even be a little build date plaque or something. The grille on the right was re-adjusted after the pic as I noticed it was slightly askew.
I'm thinking that I may get the radio head unit and get it installed before I close up the back of the dash with vent controls, airbox, etc. _________________ My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3542 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 7:12 am Post subject: |
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Looks great!
I plan to install a $60 Blue tooth radio inside my glove box.
I want to dash to look "clean" _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Chochobeef Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2013 Posts: 811 Location: Ft. Worth, Texas
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 11:39 am Post subject: |
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Can i have the part you cut out (if you are able to keep it intact)
Would make a nice cover with the radio removed. pm me if yes or no. |
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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Here's where I'm at now. Based on info on this post
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=613133
plus some internet looking, I decided that I had more cost effective options going with a new DIN size modern receiver (no shafts). I'll be looking for one that has sub pre-amp outputs, USB, and whatever additional features I can use, like Bluetooth, CD player etc.
I wanted to keep any cut-outs centered to the embossed design on the dash pad so I found dead center and then measure out to accommodate a standard DIN chassis.
Then I used a straight-edge and an exacto to cut the pad out, this left about 1/8" of metal top and bottom. Width was ok. just over 7 1/8". DIN chassis needs 2 x 7 size, so I then made the cut to the metal top/bottom (delicately) using a sawzall to get the actual opening to about 2 1/6" by the factory width openig of 7 1/8".
Final result turned out good, wasn't that difficult, just needed good lighting and a light touch. The radio face plate should cover all edges without any issues. Chochobeef, I'm not sure the cut-out will be of much use as it's got a couple of cuts in it. I suggest you use a flat piece of black plastic if you are looking for a decent opening cover.
Now I can go ahead and pick a receiver, one of my criteria is that I want any lighting in the unit to be blue - car is blue plus the other features I mentioned above. This way I can get the head unit installed and wired up before all that other stuff behind the dash gets in the way. I don't want to do this later to a finished car. _________________ My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 6:10 am Post subject: |
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Pedal refurbish time.
Here's what I started with, your basic 40 year old assembly, still functional but a bit tired.
I bought the Unique Parts clutch shaft extension (Bigfoot) and their gas pedal roller setup as well.
After the sandblaster and primer, everything was painted.
The kits installed very easily and the quality was good.
Ready to install but I'm not 100% sure if I should get these back in before I do sound dampener and carpet install. The re-done assembly works very nice.
_________________ My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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Tim Donahoe Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11740 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 2:27 pm Post subject: |
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I hope you greased up those shafts really well before putting them back together. The difference is amazing when you do this.
I installed the uniqueparts.com regular-size clutch shaft. It was well made and fit like "budder". But make sure when you grease the outer bushing (the part that engages the clutch-cable eye) that you, not only grease the brass bushing, but also the sides where the cable eye will contact--the inside and nut side, that is. I greased up all sides of the eye, to boot.
My pedals work like new now.
Tim
Last edited by Tim Donahoe on Wed Dec 03, 2014 11:34 am; edited 1 time in total |
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TX-73 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013 Posts: 1133 Location: Texas
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Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:40 am Post subject: |
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Tim Donahoe wrote: |
I hope you greased up those shafts really well before putting them back together. The difference is amazing when you do this.
I installed the uniqueparts.com regular-size clutch shaft. It was well made and fit fit "budder". But make sure when you grease the outer bushing (the part that engages the clutch-cable eye) that you, not only grease the brass bushing, but also the sides where the cable eye will contact--the inside and nut side, that is. I greased up all sides of the eye, to boot.
My pedals work like new now.
Tim |
Yup, I used a good quality synthetic grease on the shafts, including the small one at the gas pedal and will do the same where the cable connects. The entire assembly feels like new. _________________ My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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