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TX-73 Bug Rebuild
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the receiver installed but yikes was it close.... even with the best of plans sometimes you just get lucky.

I had measured behind the area and knew it was going to be a tight fit but I didn't know how close everything wound up. First off got the sleeve into the dash and anchored it behind the metal.
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Here's a back view of the sleeve, a bit hard to tell but the vent control bracket directly below actually lips over the sleeve. This was ok as the receiver slides right over it, but obviously there is zero additional room.
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The receiver slides in fine, but it has very little clearance to the wiper support bracket directly above it as well as the wiper motor. However, it does fit and does not hit anything.
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Another view of the receiver in place. I also have to rotate the hazard light switch as the terminals are against the vent bracket. I think a bit of tweaking and we are good to go.
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Installed receiver. The pic makes it look like it's set lower than the embossed area but it's actually centered. No matter - at this point it is what it is. Face is detachable as well. Now I can get it wired up and get the vents installed into the dash. Receiver fits tight against the dash, no gaps, I'm happy.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TX-73 wrote:
Tim Donahoe wrote:
I hope you greased up those shafts really well before putting them back together. The difference is amazing when you do this.
I installed the uniqueparts.com regular-size clutch shaft. It was well made and fit fit "budder". But make sure when you grease the outer bushing (the part that engages the clutch-cable eye) that you, not only grease the brass bushing, but also the sides where the cable eye will contact--the inside and nut side, that is. I greased up all sides of the eye, to boot.
My pedals work like new now.
Tim


Yup, I used a good quality synthetic grease on the shafts, including the small one at the gas pedal and will do the same where the cable connects. The entire assembly feels like new.


I have the same style clutch cable arm too, it makes it a breeze to install the pedal assembly with the clutch cable on it.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steering column got installed, it was a bit fiddly with getting the column in place and attached to the box but it all worked out.

Cleaned and painted the column, left the VIN numbering intact.
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Everything in place so gas tank can be installed now.
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I'll wait on steering wheel install so I have elbow room working on interior.
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I discovered I had the ignition harness sticking out of the wrong hole, not a big deal to unplug a few connections and move it over. It should be coming out on the right (ignition) side of the column.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did not know a VIN# was there!

I learned something today!

Looking great... Still jealous...
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL, Thanks Smile
Actually I called it a VIN number, I'd better double check it against the tag, but regardless I wanted to keep it there.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the dash vents installed. I decided that I would not cut the front face of the dash for the vents, just the top vents. I will be installing ac in the car a bit later.

I started by cutting the dash holes to match the openings in the metal below.
If you've followed this build, you'll note that I've cut all sorts of openings into the dash pad, so far the knife has not slipped lol.
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The vents have small flanges on them that sit on the metal, so I opened up the dash pad openings a bit more. Tape provided a straight line cutting guide and after several passes with an exacto knife I was done.
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These are new vents. They snapped into place fine. There's a small gap at the very base of the dash but it really doesn't matter to me, with the window rubber I doubt it will be noticeable at all. I will brush on some black paint onto the exposed foam top edge of the dash though - it's easy enough to do it now.
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andrigtmiller
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:39 pm    Post subject: Question about the padded dash Reply with quote

TX-73 wrote:
Got the dash vents installed. I decided that I would not cut the front face of the dash for the vents, just the top vents. I will be installing ac in the car a bit later.

I started by cutting the dash holes to match the openings in the metal below.
If you've followed this build, you'll note that I've cut all sorts of openings into the dash pad, so far the knife has not slipped lol.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The vents have small flanges on them that sit on the metal, so I opened up the dash pad openings a bit more. Tape provided a straight line cutting guide and after several passes with an exacto knife I was done.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


These are new vents. They snapped into place fine. There's a small gap at the very base of the dash but it really doesn't matter to me, with the window rubber I doubt it will be noticeable at all. I will brush on some black paint onto the exposed foam top edge of the dash though - it's easy enough to do it now.
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I have been doing a resto/custom build on a '73, and I too am maintaining the padded dash. Mine had holes already cut, but when I disassembled the car originally, there were only the two screws in the tops, and one on the bottom. The other three screw/washers were missing on the car. I have not been able to find anyone that sells those screws and washers.

Did you buy new scews and washers, or did you have them all from the disassembly? If you used new, what size are the screws? If someone knows the size, at least I can order some, or get some locally.

Thanks.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is pretty straightforward replacement stuff. I keep all sorts of hardware on hand already but just head down to your local hardware store and pick up some oval-head Phillips screws and cup washers, both sized #8 if I remember right.
You could use regular Phillips but if you use cup washers (rather than flat washers) the oval head screws fit into the washers nicely. Just a small detail.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went to ace, and got "finishing washers" and nice Phillips screws.

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Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
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1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did a pretty fair amount of work today. Started with getting the electrical done in the front. Actually aside from a few more connections, I'm about finished with the wiring. I did add a few more circuits for LED courtesy lighting and the radio.
I had a connection in the wiring diagram for heater vent light or something like that, never really figured where that light was so I took a cue from modern cars and added an ambient light under the dash that will light up the gearshift/vent handle area. I chose to use a filtered incandescent instead of an LED because I wanted the light to be dim - this light will be on when the parking/headlights are on.

Looks like this, just a blue panel light.
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Installed it just to the left of the ashtray.
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Under the dash
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the fresh air box installed, that was a bit of a pain. Had to wind the small center hoses under and around stuff, then also had to remove the side dash vents in order to get the elbows installed below the dash. It all worked out in the end but took a while fiddling with everything.
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Metal ducting between the air box and the elbows makes the bend easily. Still have to add the smaller hoses to the elbows.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Needed a change of pace so I decided to put some attention to the transmission. It's also got some wiring connections so I figured it could be next in line to be installed.

This thing was a leaky grimy mess when I had removed it, although it worked fine.
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It took several rounds with oven cleaner and high pressure washer to get 40 years of gunk off of it. I'm not really sure if I will paint it or not.
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I pulled the shift housing off in order to get a new base gasket installed. I had visions of pulling the gearset housing as well but decided not to based on looking at the Bentley, I don't want a rebuild on my hands. The old seal in this pic has been replaced.
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I was pleasantly surprised when I drained the fluid - even with the leaks it looked like the fluid had been replaced and the level maintained. Also, I really didn't find any sludge under the shift housing.
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I will replace the front shaft seal, all mounts, rear seal, and the seals at the axles. More to come Blue Bug
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pulled the axles out of the transmission, the seals were very toasty and a prime source of the grime. One indicator was the oil sitting right behind the plastic caps - there should not be any oil here.
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As mentioned - toasty Smile
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The back of the cover plate had some varnish but I did not find any gunk so I think the unit was maintained. I doubt this part has ever been off, the o-ring looked ancient.
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Hopefully someone may know - the bottom seal is what came out, the upper is what I bought. Obviously there is a difference in the thickness - is this an issue? It's not a big deal to get 2 more but if these are ok then I will use them. Part numbers are the same on both - 113-301-189 but the OEM had a "C" behind the number, new ones have an "F".
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, little bit of research seems to indicate the F can replace the C, meaning the thicker version seal will fit ok.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided it was time to get the hood back on the car so while we've got company over Christmas I'll get an extra set of hands to help Very Happy
Hood hinges cleaned up really nice in just a few minutes in the sandblaster, then some epoxy primer and black gloss enamel paint.
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One of those small milestones in re-assembly Blue Bug
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hit a glitch in getting the glovebox door installed - the dash is a bit thicker than the OEM. So the hinges don't line up with the door holes, door is right up against the dash.
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When tilted up at least it fits into the overall opening, but the latch doesn't reach the metal tang, again due to the slightly increased thickness.
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Overall I'm glad I painted the grilles and door body color, I like the contrast.
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So ...... this is one of those re-assembly challenges that is not the end of the world, just needs a creative solution. I'll just step back and think about it a bit, it will work out.

Merry Christmas to you, thanks for keeping tabs on this build Blue Bug
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good. Sucks about the glove box lock. Blue makes for a nice interior color. Don't think that would so hot with a yellow one like mine lol. Keep up the good work.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Smile Maybe you could get a second set of grilles/glovebox and try it out? Or maybe add a yellow accent without doing them entirely in that color?

Got some help and set the hood on. Gives me something I can bang my head on now lol.
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The hood sits slightly high but I think it may be due to the new weatherstrip, we'll see how it may settle. Gap needs a bit of adjustment but I'll wait till I get the latch installed to see where it really winds up. This is just set up so it doesn't hit the cowl.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be careful! If you don't line the edges of the cowl and lid with masking tape, when you go to adjust, you may be in for some disappointment with what can happen to your paint on any untaped edges.

I had my wife helping me adjust my hood-to-cowl/body relationship, and I closed the lid and the back of the hood scraped the cowl, carving out two areas on the cowl. Fortunately, I had touch-up paint--but it still looks funky if you look close.

Tim
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim , thanks for this reminder! I had not mentioned this but I had used blue tape at the cowl for protection, same as when I installed trunklid. Doors will get the same treatment- better safe than sorry!
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