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TX-73 Bug Rebuild
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

E, I appreciated your making the hike out to talk cars, look forward to hearing about your progress Very Happy
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW you are missing the "drain plug"

there are two, one in the rear, and one up front, should any water get in the frame tunnel, it drains from there.

You can see the empty hole in this photo:

The drain "plug" pops in from under the car.

http://www.thethingshop.com/VALVE-DRAIN-PLUG-TUNNEL/productinfo/111701309/


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TX-73
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys are sharp lol!

I have plugs courtesy of McMaster Carr that I haven't installed yet. Also I was going to use that little tab with a tie-wrap to ensure the wire loom was held at the bottom.

thanks! Very Happy
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TX-73 wrote:
You guys are sharp lol!

I have plugs courtesy of McMaster Carr that I haven't installed yet. Also I was going to use that little tab with a tie-wrap to ensure the wire loom was held at the bottom.

thanks! Very Happy


Are the McMaster Carr ones "just plugs"

The stock ones, have a little slit, so they allow water to leak out. Wink

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Red 1971 Squareback Thread
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1966 Ghia (sold)
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1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
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NewTechnicIan
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm definitely coming back here for tips and ideas on lights and electricity. Man, you're doing great!
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, small steps !
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started to put the CV's together, that first one was really a learning curve for me. I used Lobro CV boot kits, nice quality and very complete, including new bolts.

Here's the kit, I've taped up the splines to make sliding the boots on a bit easier. I use transmission assembly lube on things like this, as it does not affect anything. Of course the CV joints got the supplied moly grease. Note that in the kit you get 2 different styles (and thicknesses) of snap rings and concave washers. This is what goofed me up initially.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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These are the concave washers supplied in the kit - they go on the shaft first to give some preload to the joint, I think to keep it from moving in/out on the shaft. I didn't snap at the time and installed the one on the left. Problem was that it could not seat all the way onto the inner shaft shoulder.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here's that washer installed, if you look closely, you can see a slight gap under it. That caused an issue in that I could not push the CV joint in far enough to install the outer snap ring.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also applied a very thin smear of gasket sealant where the boot cover sits (overlaps) on the CV joint itself. My thinking was to maybe avoid grease seepage from this area.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I had made a gizmo to help compress that inner concave washer. The openings allowed me to use snap ring pliers to get the outer ring installed when the CV joint was pushed down far enough to clear the groove.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Action pic Smile This is where I discovered my mistake on the washer. I could feel that the CV joint was fully seated yet there was still 1/16" needed to access the groove for the snap ring. After a bit of head scratching, I realized that I had used the wrong washer. Replaced the washer and all was fine.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This was as far as things would go with the wrong washer.
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This is the correct washer for my application. I also double checked with what I had originally removed at disassembly.
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Here's the installed clip when the correct washer was installed. 3 more to go but I'm a bit smarter now lol. Always verify that snap rings are fully seated into the groove.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And remember that the bolts take an 8mm 12pt socket.
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peteandvanessa
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That takes me back to when I did my CV joints. Yours are looking great!
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kind of slow going with recent work demands, gotta get rid of that day job Wink

Anyway, CV's are finally done. I looked up info and found recommendations to clock (orient) them to allow for full movement, so that's what I did. Here's info on clocking the CV's:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=593685&start=0

This is not clear but the rod I used to help line them up is through the "big" part of the race wall on this side.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It goes through the "small" part of the race on the other CV.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Overall, pretty straightforward.
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Both done, ready to install. I tagged them when they were removed as to driver or passenger side, but looks like I can swap them without any problems to allow for even wear. To be honest they both looked really good when I cleaned them up so all they needed were new boot kits. I'll wait till they are installed before crimping the boot clamps.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slow going these days but that's ok, it will all eventually get done, I'll get a cycle of more time to make good progress to get to the interior.

CV shafts installed. Here's the hardware, shows the new 12pt bolt, Bellville washer and attachment plate for each attachment point. Little dab of anti-seize makes the job complete.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I've started using more of the Bellville washers in applications where I used to use split washers. I think they hold torque better and don't dig into the surfaces as much. In this case these washers came from McMaster-Carr online. I use the type that have serrations on both top and bottom.

I had already chased and cleaned all the threads, makes it easy to install the new bolts and I think that final torque is more accurate with clean threads. Minor thing I guess but I like to try to cover little details.
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CV shaft installed, turns really nice and smooth.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Aside from any small stuff that pops up, I "think" I can finally get to the interior, weather temp and work schedule permitting Smile
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TX-73 wrote:
...These are the concave washers supplied in the kit - they go on the shaft first to give some preload to the joint, I think to keep it from moving in/out on the shaft. I didn't snap at the time and installed the one on the left. Problem was that it could not seat all the way onto the inner shaft shoulder.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




So what do you suppose the washer on the left with the inner spline-like indentations is for? I had that same dilemma when I reassembled mine. It even looks like it sits flatter and would compress better.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Others will be more knowledgeable but I think the CV kit includes 2 different washers and snap rings to cover several model years. The snap rings I didn't use were thinner than the ones on my particular car. I just figured that it's easier to keep everything in one kit.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, you had mentioned that the splined washer looks like it sits flatter but that's because it was the (wrong) washer I had first tried to use. My press helped to flatten it out when I first tried to install the CV. I could tell when I installed the second (correct) washer that everything felt right getting that outer snap ring installed.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally started on the interior Cool

First up was I glued the headliner pad to the roof. I wasn't that worried about the pad not extending all of the way to the edges as it still provides sound-deadening and elimination of that oil-can feel.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I bought the pad kit from TMI - the yellow colored foam. I also bought a 1/2" thick piece of higher density closed cell foam in case I didn't like the feel
of the TMI foam.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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I also made sure I covered painted areas to protect them from glue drips.
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Love your attention to detail. Which foam are you going with? TMI? Or the cell foam?
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vamram, I'm not sure Smile it will depend on where the material is installed and if I think I need to make up some thickness. Going to figure it out as I go. From past interior work I learned that sometimes too much backing is worse than not enough - I want to be sure the padding all looks consistent. I'm going with original style (multi-piece) headliner and it already feels like it's going to be a challenge to get it done lol.

Next was to glue some foam pad to the door pillars. I looked at some online info and found that the recommendation was to roll the foam in order to put a soft edge at the headliner cover. I used the 1/4" TMI foam since it was going to be doubled up to a 1/2" thickness.

I put some tape marks on the pillar to remember where the attachment holes were for seat belts and hand-loops.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Gued the foam piece in place. It's 3" wide and will be about half that after I double it back.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here's the piece doubled back - you can see metal on the right that will be glued to the cover material. The cover material is not glued to any of the foam. This also makes a soft edge on the right so that there's (hopefully) not a line showing under the cover material.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


When I doubled the foam, I went to the edge of the little body clamps that will retain the cover material. My thinking was that this will help to hide the clamps after the material is stretched into place.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I looked at that foam on the posts and decided I wasn't happy with it, seemed too thin and really not filling that post area with a nice roll, so I removed it. I contemplated using 1/2" jute padding in all areas where I had planned to use foam, but I may give that 1/2" high density foam I bought a try. Seemed to work nice for my friend Pete:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...;start=300

I'm also trying to figure the attachment areas of this multi-piece headliner, even with researching it seems pretty complicated. So with all this running through my head it seems like a good time to stop for just a bit and think things through. Even if I went back and got the one-piece headliner it would be ok for the extra cost if it saved me some install headaches. I'm currently using the vinyl headliner, also considering the tweed version.

Sometime it just doesn't go that fast lol.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got home long enough to get a bit more done. I glued in the 1/2" high density foam padding in preparation for the headliner installation. Turned out good. I made some cardboard templates for the foam which made it easy to get the pieces cut accurately. I also used blue painters tape to mask off adjacent areas from glue spray. I really liked working with that higher density foam, cuts nice and has a good surface (closed cell).

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Despite finding some info on original style headliner install, I'm still struggling a bit to understand how exactly some of the sections are attached into place. I understand the door pillar install, but the rear window and the other side sections are not clear to me. My understanding is that you don't glue the backside of the headliner onto the foam pad areas, just at the edges. My car doesn't have the teeth at the rear quarter sections that are on earlier models so I'm not sure how those headliner pieces attach at that seam, same issue for the rear window section. I'll just have to look for more info and give it a shot - if worse happens I can always get the one-piece headliner.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I remeber correctly, the rear quarter window areas do not have teeth.

I BELIVE the headliner is glued at that area where the spot welds are in the windows.

And the lip of the new window rubber holds it in.

I could be wrong, I will research it and let you know.

I'm just going off memory.
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Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
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1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TX- check out this Chircostore article. The whole thing is explained, step-by-step, w/pictures.

http://chircoestore.com/wordpress/?page_id=63

Victor
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Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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