TX-73 Bug Rebuild

[Tim Donahoe]

I used spray CRC lithium grease.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[TX-73]

Same here
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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[TX-73]

Bumpers....

I had bought WW bumpers, really nice quality and well protected for shipping.

Got the brackets cleaned up and painted, I lucked out on the fronts as they were not tweaked even though the old bumper had a few dings.

I then sprayed some bedliner material (same Harbor Freight spray I used on the fenders) inside of the bumper. I covered any holes as I did not know if the bedliner spray could react with the black tape across the front of the bumper.

Brackets snug but not tight.

New grommets.

Installed including a new horn

Unfortunately, the rear bumper brackets were too far off to be used so I have a new set coming.
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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[Mr.Duncan]

Not to be picky, but the horn looks mounted wrong.

Are you missing the 90* angle bracket?

The horn normally faces forward, (not to the side) and dips out below the fender a tad about 1/2 of the horn dips below it.

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(Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com

Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
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1966 Ghia (sold)
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1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle

[TX-73]

Lol Mr D, I remember from the engine build you ARE picky! But that's a good thing. The horn came with that little bracket but I didn't know if it was for another model or something. I can change it no problem. I looked for pictures before installing but didn't find any - the one you sent is great plus it shows the little terminal covers. So a big thanks for this 😊

Not sure if anyone has encountered this but I had a hard time removing the bottoms of the front KYB gas shocks I decided to replace with oil filled Sachs. They are correct number for the car but it's like the sleeve on the shock was jammed onto the stud. These are brand new and I always use anti seize on this stuff. I had to use a small puller to get them off, going slow so not to damage the bushing. The Sachs are fine no issues but I can't figure this out. I've done dozens of shocks and this was a first. I don't remember any issues installing them.
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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[TX-73]

The front shock mount kit (2) showed up.

I also found motorcycle fork/shock boots that will fit over the larger base area of the mount kit and over the shock body itself. I'll post a pic of the installed shocks when I get the boots. Decided I preferred the boots over the dust tube.

I was poised to install the stock rearview mirror but decided against cutting into the headliner. My concern was that the headliner could twist as the mirror was twisted into place and may not look smooth. I'm an older guy so I also wanted a slightly larger vision to the back, so I found a used windshield mount mirror that was a bit larger than stock but not excessively so. Maybe not everyone's cup of tea but you know how that goes.

The used mirror was like new, really nice shape. Fits nice, little bit of interference with the visors, just have to twist it up a bit which is fine as far as I'm concerned. Picture is a bit close but it's not too big for the glass area.

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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[TX-73]

Another reminder of the wonderful world of aftermarket parts.
I ordered a set of rear bumper brackets as the stock ones were a bit too tweaked to mess with. I thought this was going to pretty straightforward lol.
Here's the new on the left vs the old.

However the test fit of the rear bumper found that the brackets were each about an inch wider than the body slots when I tried to install the bumper. Way more than a few hammer taps needed. Frustrating. So I figured the easiest and fastest solution was to cut them to first allow the bumper to fit and then to see what I needed to do to keep them aligned.
Here's the "installed" brackets - as you can see there is about 1/2" adjustment needed at the connection which translates to an inch at the ends.

Next step was to make a bent section to weld into place that would accommodate the brackets in their cut version.

Welded and ground smooth followed by a little application of body glazing putty.

After sanding and primer some gloss black paint. I think these should be fine now.

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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[TX-73]

Here's an update on my TMI front carpet section, I've had some questions about what happened. I'm not happy with them but I want to be fair as well.

I had sent in photos that included a tape measure to show the dimensions of the front section that did not fit. I thought this would suffice and they could simply send a replacement section. This did not happen, they wanted me to send in the piece so they could look at it and then figure out the replacement. They did finally email me a shipping label and RMA (return authorization number), so I put the carpet section in the box with the label and RMA on the box as instructed and sent it off.

I waited another week or so and contacted TMI about the status of this. I'm waiting on the carpet to finish the seat and shifter installation. They told me they could not find the tracking number so basically nobody knows where my carpet is. I left off with asking them if they could simply just send me a new piece as now I have NO carpet at all for the front. It's a salt and pepper loop, right now I wish it was black since I have some black carpet I could make into a front section in a pinch.

I understand that everybody has their process but this whole thing has been clunky and a real time-waster. I have no particular animosity to anyone though, I just want a new section of front carpet. I'll take some blame on this too as I did not check carpet fit when I first got it about a year ago, I assumed that all of the seat covers, carpet, door panels. etc. would fit. However, I didn't cheap out on the interior, I bought the entire two-tone version with the upgraded carpet with the expectation of accuracy and quality.

I am hopeful that this can be resolved soon.
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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[Tim Donahoe]

Seriously?

That's not good news at all. Let us know if and when the issue is resolved.

Hell, sometimes my lazy ass won't get to something for weeks, but since I rely on some of the best vendors for parts (and I pay for that), I usually expect for them to work, or fit as designed.

I once had an issue with a vendor that many people on this forum rag out a lot. When I called them about the problem, they said to just keep the old crap and they'd send me what I was supposed to receive. They sent the proper part and I received in in three days.

That was just good business.

I'd buy more stuff from them, but it seems that whatever I want, they're out of stock.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[TX-73]

Agree completely Tim. The build continues but I will absolutely post up what happens. May be of interest with over 54k views!
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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[TX-73]

Rear bumper installed, it fit and leveled out fine. Back of the car is a bit low because the front is on jackstands.

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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[stumper]

The car is coming along !

[TX-73]

A bit more of a carpet update. I had a call from a very nice young lady from TMI. They will be making up a new replacement section and express sending it to me.

I'm fine with that and I appreciate their follow-up. But somewhere "out there" there's a mis-cut piece of salt and pepper loop in a FedEx box

My thanks to TMI
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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[TX-73]

Every car I've built always has a battery cut-off so this one is no exception. I also like to add a connector for a trickle charger as well. Not a daily driver so I want to keep the battery charged yet isolated when it's not driven.

I decided the most logical place for the cut-off and connector was the panel area in front of the battery.

You can see the cut-off switch I'm using - it will tie into the negative battery terminal for isolation. However, the panel won't be strong enough to hold it in place so I made a bracket that will attach at the top and the bottom.

Here's the painted bracket installed with the switch - I had the battery in place to be sure that everything fit. Attaches to the seat support bar at the top and through the floor at the bottom, very rigid.

Installed switch set to the depth needed to get the handle out in front of the panel.

Done, switch installed and you can see the battery tender connector at the lower left.

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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[Chochobeef]

[TX-73]

IMO it's really not a big issue to drill the holes. The bottom holes are sealed and the top ones are just through the edge flange of the bar. I much prefer to work with metal where possible since I can "mold" it to fit exactly, such as in this case, with minimum thickness. I think the wood may be a bit clunky in there, but again, just my view

I had more correspondence with TMI, there was a possible issue with the re-cut piece so they asked for my exact pan/tunnel dimensions for the replacement section. I think that's fine, they have been good to work with. I'd much rather verify exact dimensions.
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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[TMI Products]

I will jump in here real quick. The front carpet that we made that we were going to send back didn't match your measurements. Luckily a employee here has a same year bug and myself and the R&D supervisor put the carpet in just to see how it fit. Its almost dead on. It was about 1/2" short on the passenger side near the heater channel which we will add to yours. Other then this area im a loss at this point on why yours was off. But the new carpet is in production again.
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Mario De Leon
1965 Turbo Mustang Fastback
1966 Type 3 Fastback
VW Division Sales Manager
[email protected]

TMI Products
1493 Bentley Dr.
Corona Ca, 92879
1-800-624-7960
951-272-1584 FAX

[TX-73]

Yes, it's been a mystery since my car is all original and not wrecked. All of the other sections fit fine and are installed. I initially thought that the replacement process was taking a long time as you could read back a few posts. But had it not been for some attention from TMI to making it right I would have received another section that would probably have not fit.

The young lady that I've been corresponding with has spent a lot of time to get with me to verify actual pan dimensions in my car. Even though we can't really figure out what happened or if somehow I have a factory odd pan, this is truly great customer service to get to the final result.

Just to be clear, I'm not a spokesman or trying to get free stuff, I've even told TMI I would buy that replacement section. But I'd get another complete interior from them in a heartbeat. Special thanks to K at TMI for her help.
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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[Tim Donahoe]

TX, that's almost exactly where and how I installed my cut-off switch. Mine was made by a vendor who's in the Classifieds. It came with the bracket, rivets, electrical lines, and ... a key.

It wasn't necessary to drill the two bottom holes in my kit, but I think drilling and attaching the way you did is more solid. Although, my switch isn't going anywhere, just as it is.

It's so nice when working on electrical, to have the cut-off switch. I also use it as a way to cut power when leaving the car outside for long periods while shopping, etc. I just turn the key and take it with me. It won't stop a pro from stealing the car, but it will take longer for him to find the issue.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[TMI Products]