CB Builders choice 1776 info, tips, thoughts?

[souldoubt]

Im looking at building an engine for my late model squareback. The stock 1600 is tired and Id like to have a clean ground up build. Ill probably reuse my baby weber icts, and other components.

Im looking at info, tips, tricks, and advice to building a CB builder choice 1776.

I know Id like to have:
1776
upgraded ignition
oil filter full flow
maybe subtle cam
reuse exsiting tins, alternator, carbs and elec fuel pump/reg

Im looking for a good balance of reliability, and performance. Ive done pretty much every other diy and back yard wrenching, minus an engine build.

If you were on a budget, how would you go about this build?

[jfats808]

A normal tear down to include new bearings and internals replaced, inspection on the case, machining required and Full flowing is what Id do. If you dont plan to use ported heads or port your existing heads, I wouldnt go bigger than an engle 110 comparable. Maybe even a cheater cam with no more than 8.5 cr is in your neighborhood. CW crank with all rotating assembly balanced is a plus. Even without going above 5k which i doubt you wont do, a CW is still worth it imo. Id have your case decked to help out with setting your CR.
_________________
2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

[hill]

If the car runs good without problems you'll probably be able to get it back in it's happy place by doing the valves or replacing the heads. There's an old adage that goes "EVERY VW needs a valve job" and you might be surprised at the performance improvement a good valve job can bring. From there if you want a little more zip you can get it with ratio rockers and exhaust system changes.

Have you done a compression check yet?

A stock good running '73 typeIII is one of the funnest cars I've owned. Plain stock, reliable, and useful as all get out. Like having a small truck. That car would still be with me except for an uninsured AH blowing a red light and near killing me while totaling my squareback.

I think I'm gonna' cry now....
_________________
'78 Biegephalia

[66brm]

When you look at full flowing a T3 engine its different to a T1 due to the cooling fan arrangment, make sure you search around here for a solution that suits your plan, otherwise from what you describe the 1776 with a W110 cam or similar, 40 x 35.5 valved heads, a good set of quality merged headers in the 1 1/2" range should put a smile on your face, later upgrades could be a set of 40mm IDF's or 36 DRLA's and 1.25 rockers.
_________________
Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

[volkyoo]

[souldoubt]

The current engine has been bandaided previously, and is running very low compression on #2.

Plus, being a bit of a show-y car, its time to put an engine in it with some pep.


I currently run an isp OTT exhaust, and will be running stock heat exchangers.

As for the remote oil filter, could you elaborate why this may be a problem?


I also need to find a suitable ignition/dist. setup that will be an upgrade from points, but cant be much bigger than a stock distributor (I have a alternator mod, so that area is pretty tight!)

[SBD]

Full flow on a Type III is a problem because the fan on the back end of the motor causes clearance issues with a typical full flow oil pump cover. I THINK I remember from way back where somebody cut a clearance hole into the fan housing so they could use the full flow cover but that wouldn't be a good way to do things because you'd lose cooling air.

If you search a bit on here you can find pictures that show where somebody has tapped into the side of the block for both the outlet and inlet lines for a Type III full flow setup. The best way I've seen involves welding extra material to the side of the block before drilling and tapping because the area is really thin and could probably use some reinforcement. If you just drill & tap without the added material it looks like you could easily crack the case if you weren't careful. JMO.

Found a thread with an example.....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=491135&highlight=full+flow

[vugbug68]

I did the full flow for my friends type 3 like this

I'm doing all my cases like that now.
_________________
71 Super - Backroad Thrasher
66 Corvair - Weekend Cruiser
90 4 Runner - Muddin

[souldoubt]

I have read some threads on the full flow for a type 3, and am currently waiting on a reply from CB to see if they can do this in house.

The other option for full flow has been using a Berg plate. What are the gains to be had from a 110 cam? About what limit we seeing on 1776's with a 110?

[SBD]

[Pat D]

[mark tucker]

pats right on this, needs the welded tab. if you just drill tap&drive in a seperating plug the fitting screws in and restricts the flow due to it going into a small thin gally&only flowing out on 1 side.unless it was instaled the ported then the plug put in, but if somebody tightens it your screwed,& that gally there is very thin.have pat do it when you get the rest of the stuff from them.might want to think on adding some stroke to it to.extra power is always nice to have and th motor dosent have to work so hard to keep up with a vega or yugo.good luck&have fun

[W1K1]

Brothers did mine when it was in for the linebore and opening up for 90.5's

Like Mark said, adding a stroker 74 crank puts you into a 1904cc which there are lots of us T3 guys running and very happy with.

Don't forget that your late luxury model T3 is probably around 2300lbs not like those lightweight economy beetles
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

[souldoubt]

thank for the info Pat, (as Im assuming its you I'm corresponding with in emails as well lol).

I think Im being sold a 1904 build now, as Ive read they are still a pretty reliable stroke.

Time to count my pennies and see if there's room for carbs

[W1K1]

the baby webers will work if you are on a budget, they just limit your top end.
There are a few guys running the stock T3 solex with stock size valves, ported heads, 1904cc, with stock heat exchangers. I have 36 dells on mine with L3 heads and a web 163.

It's definitely more fun to drive than the 1600 and I rarely go above 4000 rpm because the torque is there when you grab the next gear.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

[hill]