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Snowking63
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Location: Cerritos, CA
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So we're at a standstill with the engine build. After taking the deckheight measurements I went to the shop to pick up the correct shims and was told my pistons and heads won't work. The Cima pistons I have were out of a stroked motor which won't be the right size for mine. One of the guys there wants them so I'm going to trade his mahles for these.
The heads i was going to use were 39cc's so I was told I'll need to get them semihemied. But instead I took my stock heads to the shop to get machined for 90.5's.
I'm also getting a new 8 dowel lightened flywheel because my buddy's friend screwed me over with his. It's been resurfaced but the main seal surface isn't smooth.
I'm now about $2700 into this almost all stock 1776 build that i could've used to convert her to IRS or something else like discs in the back. But it's all a lesson to be learnes I guess
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which machine shop have you been using. I have the last several times used Brothers machine shop in Ontario. I've been VERY happy with them. I've gone through some of the same grief on bad blocks that you did. In one recent 12 month period, 4 cases failed on me.
- One cracked from the top forward #1 cylinder stud and across the roof.
- Another warped when dismantling and re-assembling so the #2 and #3 main bearing saddles would not touch. It got taken apart because it got rain water in the right bank through the Kadron carb with the air filter right up against the body and water running down the drip rail right into the carb. So it rusted out 2 cylinders and got water in the crankcase.
- Another one cracked next to and blew out the front main oil galley plug.
- Ummmm...I can't remember right now how the other one failed.
None of the blocks were bad when I started. None suffered any trauma to cause the case to fail.

The one which cracked next to the main oil galley I bought the case new in 1975, ran it for well over 100K miles in my 65 Baja, then used it in my HiJumper and won a championship with it, played with the HiJumper since, then put it in the 58 Baja for daily use again, and it finally quit. That one I understand it failing. And they are all 40+ year old engine cases. Well, that one was 38 years old when it failed. And that age is a big part of the problem. Simple metallurgical fatigue. I expect a brand new case to last for decades. I would probably opt for a new aluminum case if buying a new case, due to the greater strength of the alloy. They are generally available with careful shopping for about the same price.
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I go to Rimco in Santa Ana the guy there knows his stuff! But I've also heard they overcharge there. So the first case I bought was from a friend which was used as a stroked motor (from wear in the pistons) so I took it over there to get inspected only to find out cyclinders 1, 3 and 4 were cracked inside by where the studs are. The next day I come home to see a different case in the garage that my dad bought for me because he felt bad about the 1st case and he payed for it to be inspected, cleaned, machined for 90.5s and line bored. Then I got the call that that case was cracked in cyclinders 1 and 4 next to the studs.
By that time i was over my budget (because I wanted to build a seperate longblock so i can sell me 1600 to get some money back.) So I said screw it and I decided to use the case in my 1600 hoping that case was fine. And of course it was cracked too... in the same place Mad
I took all those cases to Rimco which costs $45 each case to get inspected and cleaned (btw 2 of the cases I got back weren't clean.) At that point I was really considering inventing a time machine to go back and use my money more wisely. And by that I mean leave my 1600 alone and drive it til it won't anymore.
So I bought that new AS41 to end all the bs i went through. The car is my dd so I've been in a rush building this engine. I literally decided to buy that case in about 15 minutes so there's no way I would've had time to find an aluminum case for the same amount of dough.

Btw i never really thought about water getting into my carbs like yours did. I guess every open bay car is suspect to it. I always leave clearance between my air filters and the body just to eliminate the chance of scratching it or making noise. You can buy those empi mesh like air filter covers that go onto kadrons which I'm sure would help. Kaddie Shack swears by those things. I used to have a pair until my engine fire destroyed one lol
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh and btw dustymojave, i went to bill and steeve's in Downey for the first time the other day. Place is awesome! Those guys are much friendlier than socal imports in Paramount and they sell used stuff too. And it doesn't hurt getting a discount because my buddy works there haha. Check it out if you haven't been!
Anyways, they recomended a shop nearby to get my stock heads machined. It's called Al's vw. It's a tiny shop off the side of the road that's hard to find. I just picked up my heads today he charged me $35 to get them machined but I gave him $45 because I'm in a hurry on this build. Really nice guy I think i'll be going to him more often. Here's his work
Machined for 90.5s
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the long block built
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anyone have experience with these scat pushrod tubes? We didn't put any sealant on them except for the rubber seals. My buddy has some but says his leak and the guy at the shop swears by them so i decided to get them
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My dads way of measuring end play
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just finished the build and got it back in the car!
There's a weird knocking sound coming from the alternator. Sounds more like it's coming from the alternator pulley actually. And the belt slips and doesn't want to turn when the pulley is hand cranked.
I think the new pulley i got is a just a few centimeters smaller than stock so the fan belt is a little loose. But I don't think that's the problem.

I can't figure out what it is any ideas??
I'm going to the shop tomorrow to get a new alt pulley and fan belt. Hopefully that fixes it so I can i feel the new engine on the road!
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have all 10 shims in place?
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My dad took out the original 5 shims that were in because the belt wasn't getting tight enough. I stopped by the shop today to pick up an alternator pulley and was told 10 shims need to be in place so I picked up 5 more And a fatter belt.
Went home and installed it but have no idea where my dad put other shims but I put the 5 new ones in and it fixed the problem.

Also my oil light wouldn't turn on so I picked up a new oil pressure sender but turned out to be a bad bulb.

i got some time in car and the engines awesome! Still similar to the 1600 but will rev much higher. I could almlost hit 40 in 2nd which would be a high 3rd gear on the stocker.

The only problem i have with it is that it vibrates a lot. I'm guessing it's because I didn't get everything balanced. And I really hope it won't cause the engine to wear fast.
I'll be posting pics soon
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philthy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How old are you tranny mounts? Some new rubber ones might be the trick.
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is electrical tape all around it from the PO considered old?
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are your shims in the right place? You start by putting all 10 between the pulleys and tighten the nut. If you have more that 1/2" deflection in the belt half way between the pulleys, move 1 shim from the middle to the outside of the pulley. Re-assemble. Do this intil you have 1/2" deflection in the belt.



If you put the new motor in and didn't replace old worn mounts while it was out and easily accesible, I wag my finger at you sir. lol
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeea I'm planning to pull the engine again soon to do that Mad

And whats the reason behind the 1/2" space between the belt pulleys?
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Building the engine we've always had the curiosity of where the oil filter will be and wouldn't know until the engines in the car. So after we got her in we decided to mount it on the back bottom left of the firewall
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we fabbed up a little mount that just gets pinched between the adapters
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the hoses get close to the exhaust and I've caught it resting on it after a drive. I've since ziptied them up to get off of it until I figure out how to do it properly
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I Ride Sand
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snowking63 wrote:
Yeea I'm planning to pull the engine again soon to do that Mad

And whats the reason behind the 1/2" space between the belt pulleys?


What he means is, if you grab the belt in the middle between the crank pulley and the fan pulley it should have half an inch play left and right. this is how you check the tension on the belt. as for the 10 shims, you will have some between the pulley halves and some directly under the nut, out side of the pulley. If the belt is too loose, it will slip. to tighten the belt, pull out a shim from between the pulley halves and place it outside of the pulley under the nut. this pulls the pulley halves closer together forcing the v-belt to sit higher in the pulley, making the belt tighter.
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished the roof rack about 5 months ago and never posted it. I made it out of 1/2" conduit with my own design. After looking up pictures that others put together I figured out the style I wanted and tacked it all together without really drawing it out. After I was happy with the layout I welded it all together and soon realized how thin the conduit really is. There were so many times that I burnt huge holes in it and just filled it in with the mig. To finish it I painted it the same textured truck bedliner paint that I used on the fenders, bumpers, nerf bars and pop outs.

As for the front of the rack on the top bar, I could've went up with it instead of following the same down slope of the bottom bar to fit 4 6" off road lights but drilling through the roof is the last thing I wanted to do.

Its far from perfect but overall I'm glad how it turned out considering it was the biggest weld project I've worked on. I've thought about welding some mesh on it to prevent any small objects from falling through the cross bars but it's held everything very well so far.

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When it came down to the mounts it took me some time to figure out what I wanted to do for them. I didn't like how the mounts are on most roof racks and I wanted a way to lock them. My dad helped me out with the design and I fabbed them up. Unfortunately I only have one close up of it but here it is. I haven't seen any other rack mounted this way so it's pretty damn unique.

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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I thought maybe you'd given up and sold her. Glad you're still plugging away at it.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good!
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
Looking good!


How stoked are you for Fallout 4??
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Snowking63
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My dad has been planning for years on getting a jeep so we can constantly hit the trails. His goal wasn't to get a full rock crawler, but to get to the spots where we can watch the rock crawlers do their thing and be comfortable in, so he bought a used '06 limited grand cherokee. Full leather interior, wood accessories, sun roof, navigation, and of course 4 wheel drive.
He took it to Big Bear and realized it needed to be lifted. When they got back we planned to make another drive there and stay a couple nights at a friends vacation home, and of course, I had to bring the baja.
I met a guy that used to have a later model bug which he sold but kept the tow bar. With how many times I've broke down on the side of the road, I've been looking for one but not for $100. He gave me a good deal and sold it to me for $25. When I bought the car it came with a 4 way tow connector but we disconnected it when we rewired the car. When I tried to hook it up again it required the blinkers to run off of the break lights which means the break lights had to be sectioned to left and right so I decided buying towing lights was much cheaper and easier.
My dad also had a CB radio and magnet antenna which I fabbed up a mount and drilled under the dash of the baja to hook it up. I'd still like to buy a different antenna that I can permanently mount on the rear bumber. My dad also bought a $250 refirbished CB for $90 and new antenna for the jeep, fabbed up a mount for the antenna and hooked it all up.
He bought new HD springs, shocks and wheel spacers for the jeep and we lifted it and put new tires on it the day before we left. We also needed a place to put the spare wheel so he bought a roof rack and mounted it on top.

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On the way up he started having traction control problems so we disconnected the baja and I drove it up. The trails were a little milder than I hoped but for the second time taking this car in some dirt it was still an awesome time. I'm in the process of editing a video of the trip and I'll post it as soon as possible.

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