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"BulliBill's" 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
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aa390392
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bill great video....made me wanting more..
as far as the panels....ah, so they just dont slip in there? in 15 mins? thx for the heads up...

Thomas
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GTV
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Didn't the factory use a thin metal strip between the front and middle panels? That's what's in my friend's single cab (original boards, etc).
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GTV wrote:
Didn't the factory use a thin metal strip between the front and middle panels? That's what's in my friend's single cab (original boards, etc).


Metal strips are singlecab only.

This is the DC style with masonite strip:

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GTV
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to know. The metal sure does hold up a lot better and look cleaner (not wavy).
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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So on Wednesday I decided to put both of the original left and right side vintage "cardboard" sunvisors on since the front ceiling panels were now in place. I haven't done a thing to restore them, they are going back on in "as-is" condition.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Some previous owner added a cool metal spring-loaded paper or document clip (which I bead-blasted and re-painted silver) on the driver side visor. It's cool, so I left it there.

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Here is a look up at both visors installed with the original screws. A little scruffy compared to all of the rest of the area appearing so new and fresh. You can see that we have not yet installed the ceiling gap strips, or fixed the middle and rear panel overlap issue yet.

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Finally, I took a few minutes to install the seal in the floor for the accelerator pedal rod, then installed the rod and installed the pedal assembly (bead blasted, primered and painted black) to the floor with a new tension spring to hold the bottom pivot pin in place.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We're movin' along...

Bill
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BulliBill wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The document clip is neat.

Your pedal seal goes the other way with the ripples on top of the floor.
This
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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
BulliBill wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The document clip is neat.

Your pedal seal goes the other way with the ripples on top of the floor.
This
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


No shit! Thanks for catching that Everrett! On my other Buses that boot is torn or entirely missing, and I assumed that because of the matt on top, that the accordion part went downward (and it did fit that way). I'll correct that, thanks for the catch!

In return, it looks like the top metal flange of your accelerator pedal is bent upward, and is normally made as seen in my shot to prevent the driver from bottoming out the pedal on the floor, presumably to prevent damage to the linkage/cable.

I'm not looking forward to the fix, as that small coiled spring on the accelerator rod was a "bitch" to clip on all greased up... Maybe I'll undo the bottom and fix it from there.

Bill
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Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

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Pacmanfever
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That document clip looks like something a company would install to keep their drivers organized, do you know how that might fit into the history of your bus?

Little details like that clip are icing on the cake, awesome.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BulliBill wrote:
In return, it looks like the top metal flange of your accelerator pedal is bent upward, and is normally made as seen in my shot to prevent the driver from bottoming out the pedal on the floor, presumably to prevent damage to the linkage/cable.

Yes, that is bent up and has been bent back now after I fixed all the linkage underneath. This seems to be a common "fix" back in the day to restore full pedal travel when the linkage underneath is worn out.

BulliBill wrote:
I'm not looking forward to the fix, as that small coiled spring on the accelerator rod was a "bitch" to clip on all greased up... Maybe I'll undo the bottom and fix it from there.

Yes, unfasten the bottom if the pedal pan is off, it's much easier!
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

those little details are what turned a new bus into your bus. My brother's old 61 crewcab has a pull out tray on the passenger tray, mounted under the dash, made to hold a clipboard, would never consider "fixing" that
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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pacmanfever wrote:
That document clip looks like something a company would install to keep their drivers organized, do you know how that might fit into the history of your bus?

Little details like that clip are icing on the cake, awesome.


Yeah, the initial delivery customer for this 1959 Double-Cab is unknown (port of entry was San Francisco), and I got it from Jon Peters in NorCal who didn't mention putting the clip on. But I like it, so I'll let it ride!

Okay I finally got to finish up a few days ago with the installation of the awesome wood slat set that I bought from Rick Wilson several years ago at a Kelley Park Meet. He shipped them beautifully backed in a huge thick cardboard tube complete with stainless steel screws and instructions. After using the borrowed drill press (thanks again Shawn) to precisely drill the large and smaller holes in the slats, I wanted to coat the inside bores of those holes with a similar protective coating recommended by Rick. He suggested Tung oil, and that is what I used. I got a small pointed artist brush and removed each slat and carefully painted the inside bores of each hole to give them a coating. While I was at it, I gave the each slat another wipe down with a small rag soaked in Tung Oil too. Then they sat overnight and then I installed them the next day once the Tung Oil soaked in and dried.

Back in the day, the factory used Terostrip to seal the slat holes to the bed decking. I went with modern 3M brand clear seam sealer as it will stay soft and flexible and keep moisture out of the holes. I surrounded each hole on the bottom side of each slat with a fairly thin bead of seam sealer, not too much (which might squish out when the slat is tightened down to the bed). The number 15 on the bottom of this slat identified which groove in the bed it belonged in.

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Here is what it looks like with the screw inserted and ready to be flipped over and screwed to the bed.

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But before inserting the screws through the slats I carefully applied a small wedge bead of clear seam sealer to the underside of the head of the stainless steel slotted screws that Rick provides with his wood slat set for my particular year of Double-Cab. Just a little here to help seal the hole from topside.

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Now I could set the slats in place and snugly screw them down with those stainless steel screws. Beautiful, huh? And well-protected too...

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Water will collect in the holes and under the slats from rain and Bus washing, but with these preventative measures, I've done all I can to help preserve these wood slats for many years to come. Of course I'll blot any water in the screw holes and either park on a slope or use compressed air to get moisture out from under the slats. But water shouldn't be able to get under the bed through those sealed holes!

Thanks again Rick for a beautiful product!

Bill Bowman
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Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!
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DubStyle
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely bad ass looking!
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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks "DubStyle"!

Yeah, I'm super-happy about the DC's wood slat bed, and Rick's wood slats.

Last night I whipped off the wheels again and spent hours on my back waxing all of the interiors of the wheel wells. It just had to be done! All that pretty blue paint under there. They just cried out to me for wax protection! And so I just had to give it to them!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


...and while I was at it, I waxed the entire engine compartment too!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next I moved on to installing new split-seam VW/Audi transaxle boots. Seams to the rear, just like the VW Workshop manual calls for!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bill
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Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!
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p horvath
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 8:31 pm    Post subject: dcab Reply with quote

i know exactly what the document clip on your sun visor is.
way back in the day when i attended church these would be screwed
to the back of the pews. men would attach their hats to the clip by the
brim and voila....instant concealed hat rack.
thanks for the memories.
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would recommend a flat tonneau cover, keeps the water out, the sun off, and the assholes from throwing their crap in the bed. These are easy to make, roll up to the front to give you full use of the bed. Had one on ours for years
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Schwing
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BulliBill wrote:


...and while I was at it, I waxed the entire engine compartment too!

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Is that another accessory dome light you added in the engine bay? If so, thats a great idea!
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that you've done such a great wheel well wax protection job do you think she's ready for a bit of bush bashing......


Not gonna let a SC show you up, Bill?! Laughing

Love the wood slat install photos and tips. I'm just about to install some in my SC and will be sealing like you.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.






BulliBill wrote:
Thanks "DubStyle"!

Yeah, I'm super-happy about the DC's wood slat bed, and Rick's wood slats.

Last night I whipped off the wheels again and spent hours on my back waxing all of the interiors of the wheel wells. It just had to be done! All that pretty blue paint under there. They just cried out to me for wax protection! And so I just had to give it to them!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


...and while I was at it, I waxed the entire engine compartment too!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next I moved on to installing new split-seam VW/Audi transaxle boots. Seams to the rear, just like the VW Workshop manual calls for!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bill

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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Schwing wrote:
BulliBill wrote:


...and while I was at it, I waxed the entire engine compartment too!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Is that another accessory dome light you added in the engine bay? If so, thats a great idea!


Yep! There are three on-board, the normal one on the ceiling in the passenger compartment, one mounted under the lip of the dash just below the Sapphire II radio to illuminate the under-dash shelf, and this one to illuminate the engine compartment. My '67 Westy has the same three dome lights installed on it, and over many years they have proved to be very helpful/practical. Another "hack" I can live with...

Hey "KombiMadness"! We gotta get them both on the same continent, and then we'll go bush racing! I doubt I have much of a chance with my 36hp motor though. Should I come to visit with the DC?

"p Horvath", when you described the use you have seen for that clip, I can picture it perfectly! Wow, nowadays nobody would wear a hat into a church unless it was an oddball baseball cap. At least we now know where to score extra clips if we ever need 'em!

"mandraks" - I thought about a tonneau cover and might eventually add one. I'm probably going to have a buddy make a cover for the Brazilian bed cover I have, and perhaps he can whip up a tonneau cover at the same time?

Bill Bowman
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I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The video clip was great! Your attention to detail is really inspiring.
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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So lately I've been messing around with the powerplant for the '59 DC. This is a 36hp complete engine (minus the muffler and air cleaner) that is a VW factory remanufactured "exchange" motor which sat waiting in a storage room of an old Wisconsin dealership for quite a few years. A great buddy of mine bought out their dusty backroom VW parts supply long ago, and the unused engine eventually was bought by me for use in this old DC.

We had it torn down and checked out to see that all was well inside after at least 30 years in storage, and it was awesome to see come apart! Almost like an archeological dig. We found that the factory installed lots of brand new parts during their rebuild process, some used but factory re-conditioned that could stand up to their warrantee, all factory refreshed and then shipped out to a dealership to await the next customer that needed a VW warranted rebuilt 36hp motor.

I had another set of engine tin powder-coated locally, and here you see that same long block with all the powder-coated upper tin "trial-fitted".

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A couple of evenings ago I removed the pretty tin, and got back to a long block. I did a valve adjustment, pulled and checked the spark plug gap, torqued them back in, and started to get all the peripheral tin and parts ready for re-assembly.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm installing NOS "vented" 36hp valve cover that have been collecting dust on my parts shelf for many years, an old NOS VW accessory magnet installed into the oil drain plate, an baffle in the oil filler, a resurfaced flywheel, and new Sachs pressure plate, clutch disc (with springs) and new throw-out bearing, along with a NOS German 36hp muffler and the '59 only tailpipe. It's been fun to slowly put this one back together! It'll look beautiful, but it'll never get me anywhere very fast, and that's just the way I like it!

Bill
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I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!


Last edited by BulliBill on Thu Aug 14, 2014 2:57 am; edited 2 times in total
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