"BulliBill's" 1959 Double-Cab restoration...

BulliBill · Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 7:47 pm Post subject:

So this afternoon, I decided to dive back into the engine compartment. I finally installed one of my "Blazecut" automatic fire suppression systems to the ceiling, went in easy, no kinks or any issues! Nice to have it aboard, but I'm still going to carry at least one dry chemical fire extinguisher as a back-up...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

A week or two ago, I started to stitch together the awesome reproduction heater wrap/insulation covers that Neil Pickett originally made for me. I started with the two short NOS metal flex hoses (thanks for those goes out to buddy Dan Scott who offered them up for this project). I bought a "speedy stitcher" and some waxed thread and watched some how-to videos on Youtube. Hell, it was pretty easy! First I added an extra layer of foil-enclosed bubble insulation around the flex tubes, then installed the wrap covering and sewed them on, so they ought to hold the heat for the cabin very nicely!

So since they were sewn on and ready to go, I installed them to the "muffler on the heater tubes to the front.

Hell, there was pretty much nothing stopping me now, so I kept pushing on! A neighbor was called over for an assist, and in seconds we had the 36hp "exchange" motor off the ground and on my floor jack. Then I just rolled it over to the back of the Double-Cab, lined it up and said "what the hell". It was going in this evening!

I took my sweet time, and carefully wrestled it into place, really nice working on a pristine engine and engine compartment. No dirt, grease, new seals, just a pleasure. My wife watched just in case something went wrong and she had to rescue me or something. It fought me a little, but eventually went in nicely. I still have a few things to hook up, but I have to work a 6:10am flight to Miami for a long Miami Beach layover. Once it was all bolted in, I called it a successful evening and here it is...

I can't wait to get back on it on Wednesday!

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

Pacmanfever · Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 7:52 am Post subject:

That's a huge milestone, congratulations. Very well done Bill, looking forward to seeing this one in person someday.

KevinAlbrecht · Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:21 am Post subject:

Very nice, and thanks for showing the blazecut install. Mine is laying on my bench & this adds motivation.

Cannot get over how clean, clean, clean that engine compartment is...
_________________
Kevin Albrecht
Wait, what...?

BulliBill · Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 2:36 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys, I was quite excited to have that milestone behind me, although I have more connections to make and basic tuning to do before I fire the "exchange" engine up for break in run and then initial driving. I'm on a long layover now right on Miami Beach, but I don't want to be here, I'd rather be in my garage playing with that big blue beast! Luckily I'll be back home tomorrow.
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

aa390392 · Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 5:15 pm Post subject:

Bill its looking magnificent, kudos to all the clean work...btw hope you found were way to in n out this past week.
Thomas
_________________
.
getting grumpy & less tolerant!

55 ragtop
56 delux sedan
56 Kabriolet

BulliBill · Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:54 am Post subject:

Thanks Tom, yeah it's been a fun, long slog to get to this point but I feel like I'm closing in on the finish line. Yes I did get to "In-n-out" burgers on that nice long LAX layover and I have one more LAX layover later in the month if you want to hang. Did you get through Airbus training okay?

I'm waiting to hear back from Greg Noble about a question about my steering box before I attempt to drive to the bus anywhere. I'm pretty sure a spacer got left out when I had the bottom of the steering box open to drain it, and now the steering is stiff, and I found what looks like a spacer weeks later under the bus. I may have to open it again and get that spacer in there, but I'll wait for greg's opinion.

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

BulliBill · Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 6:07 am Post subject:

Hi all,

Spent a lot of time yesterday surrounding the mounted 36hp "exchange" program motor. Had a spinning upper driver-side engine mount bolt, so had to vise grip the forward end to get the bolt to stay still so I could finally tighten the nut in the engine compartment. Hooked up the choke cable and accelerator cables to the carb, had to futz with the heater cables to get 'em attached to the heater boxes, and of course adjusting the clutch cable. It's a bitch to get old guy hands up in there with any dexterity... Then feed and attach the new wiring harness to the generator (now "polarized") and wires to the coil and oil pressure sender. Installed the new group 19 six volt battery, got idiot lights! Pretty much ready for the break-in run. Unfortunately something had to act up, and when I test-fired the starter, it sounds like it is spinning but not turning the engine, so I'm guessing there is an issue with the solenoid engaging the flywheel. Got to figure that out before I can move on to test run the motor. I have a few extra used 6 volt started of unknown quality just in case, but I wish this era-correct starter in the Bus would function! No gas or oil added to the Double-Cab yet.

I've already adjusted the valve lash, and now I need to drag out the manual and ballpark set-up the 28PCI carb. Then static-time the centrifugal advance distributor. Then add oil and check for leaks, then add gas and check for leaks. The spark plugs are removed and oil pressure sender pulled off, so that on "fire-up day" I can first build up oil pressure. Once oil squirts out the sender hole, I'll install the sender and wire, crank it over a few more turns and then install the plugs and wires. Then turn the key and see what the hell happens? But I gotta fly/work today through DFW and IAH to Miami Beach for a long layover tonight/tomorrow. Anything "VW" going on in Miami on Saturday?

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

BarryL · Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 12:07 pm Post subject:

BulliBill · Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 6:05 am Post subject:

Hi Barry,

Well since I didn't have oil in the motor or fuel in the tank yet, I didn't want to spin the motor much for the test. My intention was to just blip the starter to see if it worked okay (turned the motor over). I was alone at the time up in the cab and just turned the key to "start" for a second. It sounded as if the starter motor was spinning easily, but the starter was not laboring as if turning the motor, sounded like it was free spinning. It did not sound as if the engine was being turned, so I assumed the solenoid wasn't engaging the gear to the flywheel to turn it. I made three of four attempts and all sounded the same. In the engine compartment I confirmed the engine didn't turn at all because the motor was still stopped right on #1 TDC where I had left it after static setting the timing.

I got back in from my Miami layover last night, so I can crawl under there today and get you a photo. What do you want to see, where the wiring connects to the starter assembly? The wiring harness is a new Wiring Works harness, the starter is an era-correct used 1959 starter/solenoid. I have a couple of unknown-condition six volt starter motors that I could swap in if needed. I think I actually have an early six volt NOS solenoid too somewhere, but have never changed a solenoid before, any special tools or knowledge needed to do that if my solenoid proves to be the issue here?

It's always something, huh?

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

BulliBill · Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 10:10 am Post subject:

Here are a couple of photos of the era-correct starter that isn't turning the engine over. I had externally cleaned, sanded and brush-painted this unit in satin black paint, and believe it or not, I tried to clean up those electrical connectors as best as I could with small brass brushes and a Dremel tool with wire wheels. Notice that the smaller wire (red wire with black stripe)has a screw-connector end on the terminal:

I have these two spare units below immediately available, one earlier (9th week of 1955 production) in nice-looking and possibly NOS condition, and one used later unit that I externally cleaned, sanded and re-painted a few days ago. Neither is tested on a vehicle.

March of 1955 starter assembly (this unit has a "spade" terminal for the red wire with black stripe):

1960's era starter assembly:

On the latter 1960's era unit, I noticed that the plastic "divider wall" between the two terminals is broken off and missing. Not sure how critical that will be to function as long as the battery is disconnected during any work and great care is used to ensure that no wires could make contact with the other. Opinions?

Would shorting across the two terminals of the current unit installed perhaps jog the solenoid back into action or be a waste of time? I'm not looking forward to swapping out starters if I don't need to... I'll also have to add a female "spade connector" end to that red wire with black stripe, and it's a bitch to get up in there to do...

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

BarryL · Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 5:37 pm Post subject:

It looks hooked up correct. The starter motor can't turn unless the solenoid pulls back to make the initial relay contacts. The red with black tracer energizes the magnetic winding that makes the solenoid's guts pull back and connect the battery lug to the starter motor's lug. Weird; maybe the fulcrum pin isn't in or the pull-back fork is busted?

Not having that bakelite barrier on the other starter won't matter. Just be careful the two points don't contact when you bolt on the wire end.

Jumping the big lugs won't make it work. It will only spin the motor which you already are.

You can connect jumper cables to those other starters and momentarily bump the little start lug to the big battery lug and see if it shoves the gear out and starts to spin. Just bump it a 1/4 turn or so, don't rotate it much.

zuggbug · Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 5:58 pm Post subject:

Bill, I had the same problem with my original starter, I put a new solenoid and it would engage, but would not turn the motor over. I took it to a local shop and he confirmed it was a bad armature. I found an NOS armature, but am reluctant to spend $125 on an armature.

My friend Joey (scvw) let me borrow one of his untill I get mine fixed or find me another starter.
_________________
SOUTHERN INTEGRITY AIRCOOLERS
58 15 window
56 westy

BulliBill · Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 9:33 pm Post subject:

Today:

Discovered and dragged out one more NOS find, a 1955 date-coded starter/solenoid assembly!

Disconnected the battery completely.

Jacked the Double-Cab up and onto jack stands. Pulled the right rear wheel. Got busy carefully removing the used Dec 1958 date-coded starter/solenoid (faulty). Had to add a connector to one wire, and then oh, so carefully re-installed the NOS starter assembly (trying not to scratch any pretty paint)getting it up and in there. Got it in and wired up, woooo hoooo!

Pulled the right rear drum, as I recently saw a single drop of gear oil on the wheel below the weep hole. I wanted to verify if any was inside the drum. Thankfully the brake area was clean as a whistle. The drip came from the weep hole. Re-installed the drum and torqued axle nut (217 ft. lbs.).

Went around and checked lug nut holes to be sure that I already had removed paint (I had) and then torqued all lug nuts to 84 ft. lbs. (recommended is 80 to 92 ft. lbs.) I'm driving this "bitch" soon!

I hooked up the battery again and still had the plugs out. I added 2 2/3 quarts of 30 wt. oil, yay! no leaks! Added oil to the Bus air cleaner. I had already ball-park tuned the dwell and timing settings and initial carb settings. With plugs out, I held my breath again and turned the key to "start". Yes! This time the starter spun the compression-less engine nicely and I watched for the green oil pressure light to go out as the engine built up oil pressure. Yipeee! All is going well. Just before quitting, I went out and bought 2 gallons of premium fuel and will load that into the tank in the morning. I work a flight assignment to L.A. and then Atlanta at noon, so I "might" get to hear that "VW 36hp exchange" motor fire back to life after 40 years of sitting on both a dealership shelf and my garage shelf. That is unless it explodes! If it doesn't, I'll do the static break-in run (between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm for 15 minutes, and then drop/change the oil, re-adjust valves and timing, and re-adjust the carb). That is "if" I have the time before heading to work. Crossing my fingers! I should get to bed!

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

goatheady · Samba Member Joined: May 25, 2008 Posts: 55 Location: East

Congratulations nice work & attention to detail!

BulliBill · Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 7:24 am Post subject:

Got back from my LAX layover yesterday at noon (had to hit the "In'n'Out" burger at the end of the North runway for a Double-double and fries "Animal style"!), and dove right into the DC engine compartment. Fuel did not want to flow well to the fuel pump. I'd trickle a little gas into the carb throat and crank her over and she'd fire up for a second or three and die. Fun to hear it run even that short of a time. This DC has a NOS fuel tap, and the carb and fuel pump were factory rebuilt for the "exchange" engine program. Tank was cleaned and coated 15 years ago and unused since then. Wondered if I had a clog or plug somewhere?

I pulled the hose just after the fuel tap and fuel barely flowed out into a gas can. Operated the tap in regular and reserve and stop positions. Started to wonder if I had enough gas in the tank. Put the hose back on then pulled the metal line into the fuel pump. Dry! No fuel. Blew air back to the tank and could hear air getting into the tank. So fuel should be flowing nicely to the fuel pump. Weird.

Since I initially trusted the factory rebuilt items to be fine, even after all these years in storage, I had not dis-assembled the fuel pump. I was running out of ideas, and since I have the dealership fuel pump checking tools (in their own cool German wooden protective cases) for both 25- and 36 bhp (as well as 40 bhp and onward) fuel pumps in my collection of VW Special Service tools I decided to use 'em. So I whipped out the SST #328 A and B tools. Off came the fuel pump. I measured the fuel pump rod (about 104mm long) and put the convex end back in toward the distributor drive. Then I mounted the SST tool in place of the fuel pump to check for correct rod stroke. Ahh haaa! It was a little off, so I added two more gaskets to get the stroke back within the correct stroke range.

Then I opened up the fuel pump (almost hoping to find a brittle NOS diaphragm), but the diaphragm was in soft, pliable condition after forty years! Hmmmmmm. Anyway, I used my SST tool mounted to the fuel pump bottom half in a bench vice to draw down the fuel pump diaphragm into the bowl the proper distance, then set the top on and tightened it down. Perfect! Bolted the fuel pump (added a little more grease) back on the engine.

Fuel flow right after the tap looked pretty good now. Squirted a little more fuel into the carb and the engine started but struggled to accelerate as if she was starved for enough fuel. Hmmm... Tried a few more times. I added some fuel to the obviously dry carb bowl, tried again and suddenly she started running just fine, so I immediately ran the 36hp engine up to break-in speeds of between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm and held it there for 15 minutes for the break-in run.

Woooo Hoooo! Drained the oil and saw nothing alarming. Refilled with fresh 30 wt. oil. After it cooled a few hours later I re-adjusted the valve lash (no surprises there), re-timed the distributor statically, and adjusted the new fan belt as it got a little loose breaking in. The engine is now pretty much ready for it's first drive, but I need to go over the front end to be sure I tightened everything up properly prior to taking this old Double-Cab out into my neighborhood, plus it's raining this morning...

Getting closer...

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

zuggbug · Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 6:12 pm Post subject:

Awesome Bill
_________________
SOUTHERN INTEGRITY AIRCOOLERS
58 15 window
56 westy

aa390392 · Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 7:06 pm Post subject:

Bill thanks for the update.....40 years of being soft n pliable...hmmm never mind I was goin to throw a joke out there, then I thought better...the whole bus is so very nice. Its better than new... more love
Thomas
Im now airbus qualified. ..back to doing Hawaii , that is after having a mths VC next mth.yoohoo
_________________
.
getting grumpy & less tolerant!

55 ragtop
56 delux sedan
56 Kabriolet

DubStyle · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:09 am Post subject:

Oh man you need a goPro to record your face when you are driving it for the first time. Good luck on your maiden voyage!
_________________
Anthony

SBS #1
SBS #1 on FB

"The original & best lowered Split Bus website/club"

BulliBill · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:43 pm Post subject:

Here is a short video of my test of the NOS 1955 date-coded starter that replaced the used Dec 1958 date-coded starter unit with the solenoid that failed to engage the flywheel.

Link

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

parkerlewis · Samba Member Joined: December 22, 2005 Posts: 180

Bill, great thread, and amazing work on the car! This thread is the ultimate motivator for people like me working on a double cab, or any splitty for that matter.
Quick question, did you also trim the flange/lip of the safari window rubber where the nike swoosh is, to allow the glass/rubber to be pressed in all the way?
It seems that my nike swoosh is to blame for the glass/rubber not snugging in all the way.
_________________
1961 Double Cab (Sealing Wax Red)


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"BulliBill's" 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
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