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Just bought a fg Buggy, now what to do with it?
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SamT
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:
SamT wrote:
didget69 wrote:
- is there going to be additional chassis structure on the side rails or center tunnel? Current chassis pics look like a motorized & suspensioned extension ladder... Laughing

bryan


Defintely going to be a roll cage, but as is it is more rigid than a stock Vw pan.


Your current design as shown will suffer from torsional twist with the tunnel removed. This is why I was curious to know if you planned to build your chassis similar to that of gr8cobbler.

bryan


Im not sure what I want to do! It is getting a full cage forsure, but i cant settle on a design. If i built the middle area of the cage from square tube it would sure be easy to weld the roll bar to.
How do you guys attach the cage if you want to still be able to remove the body? Or is the body semi permanent attached?
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When the car's all finished (or as finished as any Buggy is) why would you want to remove the body?
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SamT
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

manxdavid wrote:
When the car's all finished (or as finished as any Buggy is) why would you want to remove the body?


That is what I'm wondering. I can build alot better cage if i don't intend to ever remove it or the body. With the body lift everything will be easily accessible.
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SamT
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So do i paint the inside around the cage, or paint the body before the cage? I dont see how i can weld the cage good and keep the paint perfect. Nor can i paint the body perfect around the cage. I guess i could paint the inside of the body black like the cage.
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RedBaronofRedBud
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

brettsvw wrote:
This is where I look for inspiration.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=556247


X2

Joes builds are incredible! This forum has so many talented and gifted people and the fact they are willing to share is incredibly humbling. Kermit would not be on the road without the help and great information on this forum.
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didget69
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

People typically sandwich the fiberglass tub flange between the chassis & roll cage.

bnc
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SamT
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So are you guys trimming the lip off of the body? It hangs quite a ways inside my chassis.
I saw that angle iron sandwich. Im trying to decide wether to do that or use a bung (weld slides in the tube and accepts a 3/4" fine threat bolt) and bolt it to a plate, or just build a permanent cage.

Cant decide
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SamT
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at my chassis, the angle iron is the easiest way. I guess i will trim the lip off the shell, the lip is all warped up anyway
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are so many ways to build a cage for a buggy, and no one specific style has to be used. No one style is right, and not all styles are wrong/unsafe. I pick what is best for what I intend to do with the buggy, long term.

You can weld a cage in permanent, but it makes it real hard to install a body after painting, or to remove a body if repairs are needed. You have to raise the body bottom over top of the cage top.

The cage can be affixed to the floor with plates. The pitfall is it invades your leg and foot well area. After long trips, my legs get sore from bumping or leaning against a cage tubing jutting out into my space.

I personally like making the cage attach as close to the body as possible. I sit them right on the sill plate/body mount flange. To install or remove the cage, I use two ratchet binders to pull the cage in slightly to clear the body and not scratch it. I use either 3/16 X 2 or 1/4 X 2 inch strap (which ever my steel company has at the time) and curve it to match the body contour, drill and bolt it down. Then weld the cage to that.

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It all comes down to what you can get your hands on to use (please do not use pipe, use tubing), what tools you have to use and you personal taste for the design you like.
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SamT
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, ill mount it to strap iron! I have a JD2 bender with a 4.5" radius die for 1.5" tube. My metal guy has some .120 wall tube im gonna go get this afternoon and get to work. I almost finished the tunnell humps on my pan this morning.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds good Sam! Looking forward to seeing your build.
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didget69
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=267428&highlight=

This was some good info from a few years back...

bnc
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SamT
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=267428&highlight=

This was some good info from a few years back...

bnc


I pick up something from every one of these build threads, eventaully i will figure out what i want.
I plan on doing my windshield like that, but inside the tube. I had no idea you could just glue it in. Will have to go see my glass guy. I have been thinking about a fold down windshield like a jeep, but i haven't figured any way to do it and keep it light weight and clean looking.

I got my seats placed today, a little tight for me at 6'4", but should be great for the wife (this is actually "hers"). Im trying to leave space for a "love seat" in the back, looks like there is barely room. I'm just going to hinge a vinyl covered board to the bottom that tilts for battery and spare tire well access. ( going to turn the tire well into a storage hole, or maybe a cooler) the back will be a board covered in vinyl too. Its not going to be caged off, so it doesn't need to be comfortable. I hate offroading in a overloaded vehicle, takes all the fun out of it. So its just a 2 seater doing fun stuff, but can be a 4 seat for cruising around town.
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didget69
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be aware that the rear area is not a 'seat'... with you being tall, there will be no legroom for a 'seat' in rear. Also, anyone attempting to ride there might find their head sticking above any roll cage.

bnc
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SamT
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea, the back seat wont be safe for offroading. Will probably use it to shoot pigs from, rest the gun on roll cage while kneeling. Its got to be as safe as sitting on a pickup toolbox holding on for dear life!
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SamT
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many bolts do yall use to bolt down the roll cage? I got my strap cut and shaped to the lip on the pan. I put 5 bolts in each side, seems like that would be plenty.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I typically use 7 on each side plus 2 across the rear for 16 total bolts in the interior of the buggy.
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Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

manxdavid wrote:
When the car's all finished (or as finished as any Buggy is) why would you want to remove the body?


Since when is a buggy ever finished????? Wink
I pull my body every winter to do upgrades to my buggy.

I can't pull the engine without at least lifting the back of the buggy.......

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..... and since my 53 yr. old body doesn't bend as easily as it used to it's only a one hour job to have the body ready to remove........correction... I need to add an extra hour due to the FI wiring I need to unhook.....

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I could never put a cage in that stopped me from removing the body.

What if you had to do a trans change or who knows what.

I have done many updates in the almost ten years I have been driving it.

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I add to it every year and look forward to it...... Cool

Wiring updates, Turbo blow through carb. two years later Fuel injection along with water/alcohol injection and this winter is a Ver. 3.0 Megasquirt board and MS-2, Subaru TD04L-13T turbo along with direct fire wasted spark. IAC valve, Rev limit, launch control and ignition/fuel table switching.......
Next winter.....who knows... I'll find something......I need an intercooler......Oh yeah.... I need disc brakes...got my eye on fronts and rears....depending on cash flow of course... Embarassed if I can't do it this year I'll do it next winter.
I only have a 3-4 month window that I want it down and undriveable.
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SamT
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well guys, i got my cage bent and tacked. I just need to add some braces and pull it off and weld.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice!

I like the design. One buggy I will try the side hoops instead of the front and rear hoop.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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