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71 Bay fuel tank outlet nipple
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rneithammer
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 1:23 pm    Post subject: 71 Bay fuel tank outlet nipple Reply with quote

I want to install a fuel cutoff solenoid valve in my bus - a fire prevention thing. I figured that the best thing I could do is unscrew the fuel tank outlet hose nipple and, using whatever pipe thread adapters might be needed, screw the solenoid valve into the tank outlet, and, again with pipe thread adapters, screw the nipple into the solenoid valve. Is it possible to remove the nipple from the tank? Is there an excessive risk of breaking something? What size is the thread on the tank? Has anyone ever done this, and, if so, how did it work out?
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rustybusjef
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aircooled.net and others sell AN6 & 8 fittings for your bus. I would get a soleniod first and try to match something up . No smoking while you're doing this!
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 4:26 pm    Post subject: fuel cutoff Reply with quote

Maybe' Desertbusman' will chime in on this as i think he has done this.
or, send him a PM.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, you may need to put the shut off solenoid inline down stream from the tank.
Thanks to attwell.com
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Microfiche/t202100.gif
Notice #5 is a filter screen and #4 is the nipple that sticks out of the bottom of the tank.
Can you post which solenoid you go with.
Good Luck
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't recall the thread on the outlet but it's the same as an oxygen sensor on a modern car.

Most people remove the nut/screen/nipple and tap the inside of the tank outlet to 1/4" NPT.
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skills@eurocarsplus
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

18x1.5 M18x1.0 for the thread size

or just do this and call it a day

http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/aftermarket-fuel-tank-bung-plain-aluminum-p-12183

AN fittings get spendy. good ones aren't cheap

edit in blue
Tcash

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rneithammer
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replys. I'm not familiar with "AN" type fittings, although I see that SOCAL has AN type hose ends and hoses. But I would prefer to go with metal all the way to the solenoid valve, so that if a fire got started the valve would have a better chance of stopping the fuel and not be vulnerable to a hose burn-through. I found a site that has AN fittings, but I'm not at all fiamiliar with how they work. If there were a retailer close to me that had this stuff, I'm sure I could put together a kit in no time, but doing this via the web is a bit tougher.

So, if I used the tank bung to 6AN adapter:

http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/aftermarket-fuel-tank-bung-plain-aluminum-p-12183

or

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/SearchResults.asp?Search=fuel+tank

Then go to 6 AN union adapter:

http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/product_info.php?c...d3ebdd2246

Then go to a 6 AN to 1/8" NPT adapter:

http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/product_info.php?c...d3ebdd2246

Then I want to turn 90 degrees so that the solenoid is horizontal and doesn't stick too far down - probably I can get a 1/8" brass F-F elbow and close nipple at my local FLAPS of hardware store....

Then, the solenoid valve:

http://www.12voltfuelvalves.com/79-afc11112.html

And finally, A hose barb:

http://www.12voltfuelvalves.com/brfulicohoba.html

Whew...I think that will work. What do you think of this scheme?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's nice looking, but at the same time complex and spendy. I like the tank adaptor, I'd use it and fabricate my own lines using AN817 or AN818 series flare nuts opposed to that union, then I could put the pump wherever I liked and it wouldn't be hanging off a fitting. (you'll need the inner collars for the 818 fittings)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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TomWesty
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
That's nice looking, but at the same time complex and spendy. I like the tank adaptor, I'd use it and fabricate my own lines using AN817 or AN818 series flare nuts opposed to that union, then I could put the pump wherever I liked and it wouldn't be hanging off a fitting. (you'll need the inner collars for the 818 fittings)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

When you say pump, do you mean shutoff valve?
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rneithammer
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where can I find the flare nuts and tubing? Didn't see those items on the AN Direct site...
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, what if you flare the end of the outlet tube and adapt that to the solenoid?
Then you would be able to retain the screen in the tank. You could take it further and install an inertia switch so if you get hit from behind it will shut off the fuel.
X2 on what daddy said, if you hang the solenoid off the fitting. The harmonic vibrations will eventually end up cracking something.
Thanks for the thread!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomWesty wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
That's nice looking, but at the same time complex and spendy. I like the tank adaptor, I'd use it and fabricate my own lines using AN817 or AN818 series flare nuts opposed to that union, then I could put the pump wherever I liked and it wouldn't be hanging off a fitting. (you'll need the inner collars for the 818 fittings)

[img]

When you say pump, do you mean shutoff valve?

Either/or, all that stuff screws together with pipe threads so they could be assembled into a unit and clamped to the body somewhere convenient, use stainless tubing and fittings for the line and it'll be as fireproof as it gets. Likely best to put the shutoff valve upstream of the pump but I'm not sure it really matters.
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suffecool2
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for this thread, I've been trying to figure out how to make the connection at my tank with all metal. I went to all hard lines & electric fuel pump, but had to use a small chunk of fuel hose to connect the tank nipple to the hard line.
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Opossum
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Parts you need:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Bought
Valve from here: http://www.afcvalves.com/mod121.html
Center AN fitting: http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Aluminum-14.html
Gas tank fitting (right piece): http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3288

All for less than $ 100.00

When installed:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Make sure you:
Use gas rated Teflon tape or sealant on threads.
Use the bolt on top of fuel cut off solenoid to make bracket for extra support. You don't want the valve to wiggle.
Hook up solenoid to same wire that runs fuel pump. Hopefully the fuel pump is wired correctly through a relay.

I've had this on since April of 2011 and it works great and gives piece of mind. Shuts off fuel when engine is shut off and no rubber hose to rot out between valve and tank.
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suffecool2
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Opossum wrote:
Parts you need:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Bought
Valve from here: http://www.afcvalves.com/mod121.html
Center AN fitting: http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Aluminum-14.html
Gas tank fitting (right piece): http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3288

All for less than $ 100.00

When installed:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Make sure you:
Use gas rated Teflon tape or sealant on threads.
Use the bolt on top of fuel cut off solenoid to make bracket for extra support. You don't want the valve to wiggle.
Hook up solenoid to same wire that runs fuel pump. Hopefully the fuel pump is wired correctly through a relay.

I've had this on since April of 2011 and it works great and gives piece of mind. Shuts off fuel when engine is shut off and no rubber hose to rot out between valve and tank.


Can this setup still be used with the filter sock that goes up into the tank?
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rneithammer
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks 'possum....that looks real simple, and simple ist best.

Good question about the filter sock. I would assume (and hope) that that stays in place.

Since my bus is a 71, it does not have an electric fuel pump. I plan to wire to the hot side of the coil for solenoid power.
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Opossum
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, filter sock is still in there.
Just unscrew your current fuel tap, screw in this setup, add support bracket for valve, and connect wiring.
Fuel tank tap piece from CB Performance includes the Viton sealing ring.
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 3:28 pm    Post subject: fuel tank valve Reply with quote

OPossum,
Nice information on this shutoff valve.I will be doing this soon to my Bus
and i like that you added where to buy all that's needed too!
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rneithammer
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

'Possum......Gas rated teflon tape? I have not heard of that. Is that a hardware store item?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AN fittings and tubing are essentially the same for your use as JIC fittings and tubing which are going to be available from any industrial hydraulic supply house. The hydraulic jobber may not have the special AN/VW fitting but will have everything else to go from the tank to the cutoff and then to the pump in steel line.
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