| Author |
Message |
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
 Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 10:20 am Post subject: Master cylinder part numbers |
 |
|
Been a while since I've posted any updates as winter set in and the car is tucked into my tiny garage to keep the rain away...
I'm looking for a replacement MC and find several different part numbers available - All ATE - 311611015K, 311611015J, 311 611 015 L...
Can anybody confirm the correct part# for a 1970? or will any of these work? I do plan to replace the original and rebuild the old so I have a backup.
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22422
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 5:34 pm Post subject: Re: Master cylinder part numbers |
|
|
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Been a while since I've posted any updates as winter set in and the car is tucked into my tiny garage to keep the rain away...
I'm looking for a replacement MC and find several different part numbers available - All ATE - 311611015K, 311611015J, 311 611 015 L...
Can anybody confirm the correct part# for a 1970? or will any of these work? I do plan to replace the original and rebuild the old so I have a backup. |
The only number I come up with, is 311 611 017C. This is the MC used from 71 on, and uses the 3 terminal switches, and not the log under the unit (68 to 70 version).
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:49 pm Post subject: Re: Master cylinder part numbers |
|
|
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Been a while since I've posted any updates as winter set in and the car is tucked into my tiny garage to keep the rain away...
I'm looking for a replacement MC and find several different part numbers available - All ATE - 311611015K, 311611015J, 311 611 015 L...
Can anybody confirm the correct part# for a 1970? or will any of these work? I do plan to replace the original and rebuild the old so I have a backup. |
The only number I come up with, is 311 611 017C. This is the MC used from 71 on, and uses the 3 terminal switches, and not the log under the unit (68 to 70 version). |
Thanks Bob. Anybody out there used the ATE 311611015J from ISP?
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22727
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:30 am Post subject: Re: Master cylinder part numbers |
|
|
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Been a while since I've posted any updates as winter set in and the car is tucked into my tiny garage to keep the rain away...
I'm looking for a replacement MC and find several different part numbers available - All ATE - 311611015K, 311611015J, 311 611 015 L...
Can anybody confirm the correct part# for a 1970? or will any of these work? I do plan to replace the original and rebuild the old so I have a backup. |
The only number I come up with, is 311 611 017C. This is the MC used from 71 on, and uses the 3 terminal switches, and not the log under the unit (68 to 70 version). |
Thanks Bob. Anybody out there used the ATE 311611015J from ISP? |
I get the ATE unit through my own supplier- it comes complete with the little angled plastic connectors at the top. they're great- direct fit, and never a problem. I've probably installed a dozen over the last few years.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:37 am Post subject: Re: Master cylinder part numbers |
|
|
| Tram wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Been a while since I've posted any updates as winter set in and the car is tucked into my tiny garage to keep the rain away...
I'm looking for a replacement MC and find several different part numbers available - All ATE - 311611015K, 311611015J, 311 611 015 L...
Can anybody confirm the correct part# for a 1970? or will any of these work? I do plan to replace the original and rebuild the old so I have a backup. |
The only number I come up with, is 311 611 017C. This is the MC used from 71 on, and uses the 3 terminal switches, and not the log under the unit (68 to 70 version). |
Thanks Bob. Anybody out there used the ATE 311611015J from ISP? |
I get the ATE unit through my own supplier- it comes complete with the little angled plastic connectors at the top. they're great- direct fit, and never a problem. I've probably installed a dozen over the last few years. |
Thanks Tram. Do you know if there is any the difference between the J, K and L designations? They all look the same from various supplier photos. Just looking for direct fit with the angled connectors as you describe above. Which part number do you order?
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22727
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:40 pm Post subject: Re: Master cylinder part numbers |
|
|
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Been a while since I've posted any updates as winter set in and the car is tucked into my tiny garage to keep the rain away...
I'm looking for a replacement MC and find several different part numbers available - All ATE - 311611015K, 311611015J, 311 611 015 L...
Can anybody confirm the correct part# for a 1970? or will any of these work? I do plan to replace the original and rebuild the old so I have a backup. |
The only number I come up with, is 311 611 017C. This is the MC used from 71 on, and uses the 3 terminal switches, and not the log under the unit (68 to 70 version). |
Thanks Bob. Anybody out there used the ATE 311611015J from ISP? |
I get the ATE unit through my own supplier- it comes complete with the little angled plastic connectors at the top. they're great- direct fit, and never a problem. I've probably installed a dozen over the last few years. |
Thanks Tram. Do you know if there is any the difference between the J, K and L designations? They all look the same from various supplier photos. Just looking for direct fit with the angled connectors as you describe above. Which part number do you order? |
I don't know the P/N. Let me research through my invoices when I get a chance later and I'll post the info.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 10:52 am Post subject: Re: Master cylinder part numbers |
|
|
| Tram wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Been a while since I've posted any updates as winter set in and the car is tucked into my tiny garage to keep the rain away...
I'm looking for a replacement MC and find several different part numbers available - All ATE - 311611015K, 311611015J, 311 611 015 L...
Can anybody confirm the correct part# for a 1970? or will any of these work? I do plan to replace the original and rebuild the old so I have a backup. |
The only number I come up with, is 311 611 017C. This is the MC used from 71 on, and uses the 3 terminal switches, and not the log under the unit (68 to 70 version). |
Thanks Bob. Anybody out there used the ATE 311611015J from ISP? |
I get the ATE unit through my own supplier- it comes complete with the little angled plastic connectors at the top. they're great- direct fit, and never a problem. I've probably installed a dozen over the last few years. |
Thanks Tram. Do you know if there is any the difference between the J, K and L designations? They all look the same from various supplier photos. Just looking for direct fit with the angled connectors as you describe above. Which part number do you order? |
I don't know the P/N. Let me research through my invoices when I get a chance later and I'll post the info. |
Thanks Tram, that would be very much appreciated!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7544
Location: Santa Cruz
|
| Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 11:51 am Post subject: |
|
|
To the OP,
Bob Notch has a great suggestion for dealing with your beam issues.
If you look at my thread, there is a bit of info about cutting an old beam to get a set of bushings out.
You do NOT want to make cuts exactly like here, as this was a bad beam, and i was only cutting to get the bushes out for testing in the oven to see if they would melt, but you get the idea.
My cuts went through a couple of the bushes, you can see the burr...
However, often, you will find that the inner bushes are in decent shape.
Should you get a decent donor beam, the bushes inside might be fine.
New NOS needle rollers at the ends can be a plus, and your sources in Germany were the best i was able to find in my quest.
So, fear not the innards of a beam. I had great luck cleaning mine out inside with laundry detergent, and a pressure washer hooked up to my hot water heater.
Dag, see how stuff works? I had a complete spindle-to-spindle beam, trying to get someone to take for free for months...
_________________
Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 1:11 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Clatter wrote: |
To the OP,
Bob Notch has a great suggestion for dealing with your beam issues.
If you look at my thread, there is a bit of info about cutting an old beam to get a set of bushings out.
You do NOT want to make cuts exactly like here, as this was a bad beam, and i was only cutting to get the bushes out for testing in the oven to see if they would melt, but you get the idea.
My cuts went through a couple of the bushes, you can see the burr...
However, often, you will find that the inner bushes are in decent shape.
Should you get a decent donor beam, the bushes inside might be fine.
New NOS needle rollers at the ends can be a plus, and your sources in Germany were the best i was able to find in my quest.
So, fear not the innards of a beam. I had great luck cleaning mine out inside with laundry detergent, and a pressure washer hooked up to my hot water heater.
Dag, see how stuff works? I had a complete spindle-to-spindle beam, trying to get someone to take for free for months... |
Thanks Clatter! Awesome to see the how it all fits together. I keep going back to your thread looking at these, so thanks for posting on mine..much easier for reference when I get there. I did source a really nice replacement beam from Bert3, so when I pull my old one I'll at least have a "new" one to install while I refurb the old one. That said the bigger issue is the inner beam clamps on the frame head side. Mine are rusted through at the frame head (lower and center bolt mounts are gone), so I need some advice as to how to remove them. I saw a thread at some point where it looks like they are spot welded to the head...so guess I can carefully grind the weld down and drill them out but not sure...I'll post pics when I get there...thanks again!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22727
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
| Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:49 pm Post subject: Re: Master cylinder part numbers |
|
|
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Been a while since I've posted any updates as winter set in and the car is tucked into my tiny garage to keep the rain away...
I'm looking for a replacement MC and find several different part numbers available - All ATE - 311611015K, 311611015J, 311 611 015 L...
Can anybody confirm the correct part# for a 1970? or will any of these work? I do plan to replace the original and rebuild the old so I have a backup. |
The only number I come up with, is 311 611 017C. This is the MC used from 71 on, and uses the 3 terminal switches, and not the log under the unit (68 to 70 version). |
Thanks Bob. Anybody out there used the ATE 311611015J from ISP? |
I get the ATE unit through my own supplier- it comes complete with the little angled plastic connectors at the top. they're great- direct fit, and never a problem. I've probably installed a dozen over the last few years. |
Thanks Tram. Do you know if there is any the difference between the J, K and L designations? They all look the same from various supplier photos. Just looking for direct fit with the angled connectors as you describe above. Which part number do you order? |
I don't know the P/N. Let me research through my invoices when I get a chance later and I'll post the info. |
Thanks Tram, that would be very much appreciated! |
311 611 015 J. In the last year, I've used this as a replacement on 2 1969s, a 1971 and as an upgrade on a 1965.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 12:23 am Post subject: Re: Master cylinder part numbers |
|
|
| Tram wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Been a while since I've posted any updates as winter set in and the car is tucked into my tiny garage to keep the rain away...
I'm looking for a replacement MC and find several different part numbers available - All ATE - 311611015K, 311611015J, 311 611 015 L...
Can anybody confirm the correct part# for a 1970? or will any of these work? I do plan to replace the original and rebuild the old so I have a backup. |
The only number I come up with, is 311 611 017C. This is the MC used from 71 on, and uses the 3 terminal switches, and not the log under the unit (68 to 70 version). |
Thanks Bob. Anybody out there used the ATE 311611015J from ISP? |
I get the ATE unit through my own supplier- it comes complete with the little angled plastic connectors at the top. they're great- direct fit, and never a problem. I've probably installed a dozen over the last few years. |
Thanks Tram. Do you know if there is any the difference between the J, K and L designations? They all look the same from various supplier photos. Just looking for direct fit with the angled connectors as you describe above. Which part number do you order? |
I don't know the P/N. Let me research through my invoices when I get a chance later and I'll post the info. |
Thanks Tram, that would be very much appreciated! |
311 611 015 J. In the last year, I've used this as a replacement on 2 1969s, a 1971 and as an upgrade on a 1965. |
Thanks for taking the time to look this up Tram!! Very helpful!!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7544
Location: Santa Cruz
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Wish I still had this sitting around... Wouldn't have cost much to send you the clamp parts. Somebody can cut one up for you.
Sucks I can't hang on to things. The yard turns into a junkyard really fast, and I end up not being able to find anything and standing on parts when working and cant get the door open and getting yelled at and pissed off and where was that thing again..... It's real easy to become 'that guy'. Every neighborhood has one eh? At least around here.... 
_________________
Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 12:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Clatter wrote: |
Wish I still had this sitting around... Wouldn't have cost much to send you the clamp parts. Somebody can cut one up for you.
Sucks I can't hang on to things. The yard turns into a junkyard really fast, and I end up not being able to find anything and standing on parts when working and cant get the door open and getting yelled at and pissed off and where was that thing again..... It's real easy to become 'that guy'. Every neighborhood has one eh? At least around here.... |
I actually have a perfect pair of those frame head sections. Just need to figure out how to remove the clamp ends and re-attach without messing up the geometry.
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7544
Location: Santa Cruz
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Pretty easy once you do it...
Start with your cut sections (the 'donors'); clamp them in a vise and have them easy to reach, comfortable and right in front of you.
Grind away the (boogery factory gas) welds, and drill the spot-welds.
Go ahead and destroy the parts you are not saving; work your way up to the part you are saving.
"Walk up" to the part you are saving, so to speak.
Grind up to it, so it stays whole and the same size.
Then, once it is whole and free, you will have a feel for how it is built, and how it comes apart.
Then, you can wok on the car (the 'recipient') now that yo have done one, it will be easier if you are at an awkward angle, or lying on the floor.
Destroy the part to be removed; "Walk up" to the remainder of the car, grind it clean, and start test-fitting...
Clear as mud, eh?
If you don't really know how all of these parts go together, start cutting around and apart the 'donor' part, opening it up until you can see exactly how it was constructed...
_________________
Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:04 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Clatter wrote: |
Pretty easy once you do it...
Start with your cut sections (the 'donors'); clamp them in a vise and have them easy to reach, comfortable and right in front of you.
Grind away the (boogery factory gas) welds, and drill the spot-welds.
Go ahead and destroy the parts you are not saving; work your way up to the part you are saving.
"Walk up" to the part you are saving, so to speak.
Grind up to it, so it stays whole and the same size.
Then, once it is whole and free, you will have a feel for how it is built, and how it comes apart.
Then, you can wok on the car (the 'recipient') now that yo have done one, it will be easier if you are at an awkward angle, or lying on the floor.
Destroy the part to be removed; "Walk up" to the remainder of the car, grind it clean, and start test-fitting...
Clear as mud, eh?
If you don't really know how all of these parts go together, start cutting around and apart the 'donor' part, opening it up until you can see exactly how it was constructed... |
Crystal clear! Thanks!!!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ahh spring is here and my fasty got some long overdue attention. Installed the new MC, brake switches and new boots. OG is off to Jim Adney along with the calipers for rebuilding. And I played around with Photoshop and the Cosmo wheels...I like!!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 5:03 am Post subject: |
|
|
Prior to removing my old MC I had functioning tailights and brake lights. After removal and installing a new MC with the old ATE brake light switches (2 prong) I don't have either tail lights or brake lights. I haven't installed the reservoir and bled out the system yet so just wondering if I need to do that before lights will function again? Seems weird. Also, I noticed my back up lights didn't work. Upon checking the bulbs I found plastic plugs instead. I removed the housing and found there is no bulb receptacle or wires. So how the heck do I get back up lights connected???
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
|
| Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 6:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
Finally had some nice weather, so pulled the fasty out and began the tear down. So far I'm pleased at the condition after 43 years in Denmark salt and rain!
Did a little wipe down to remove the dust and it looks good..ish
Minor rust here
Both sides of the pan edge are bad and will need replacing in addition to the rest
Will be placing WTB for donor metal..
Haven't removed the front fenders yet, but I anticipate it will be pretty bad..
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Slow 1200
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2004
Posts: 2105
|
| Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 7:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
you just proved that 1600TAs came with no reverse lights! 
Last edited by Slow 1200 on Wed Apr 09, 2014 12:31 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Yabbadubbadoo
Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2012
Posts: 914
|
| Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 3:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I know you have a new beam now but just FYI and anyone else, you do not need to cut your front beam at all to replace inner bushes. Vw had a tool to pull them but unicorns stole them all.
Anyway, you can make a very simple tool yourself to pull the bush from outside. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=543745
_________________
Sydney, Australia.
66 Type 3 Fastback |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
