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Rebel wiring harness questions thread
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VolkswagenGerry
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so i figured out white is ground red is stop black is tail...

they work when hooked to a battery with jumper wires..

however I have no action off the brake pedal..

I have the Orange and white to the switch on the master cylinder..


I have two prong brake switches..
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check to make sure your brake switch is working. Check to make sure Orange has power on it, then plug it on the switch to see if power is going through switch when the peddle is depressed.
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jspbtown
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have one light per side?

If you do I assume you are running a module right? If not your brakes and blinkers won't work.

Like Joecoolcustoms said...test to make sure orange has keyed power. Press brakes (they are working right?) and does the white energize when you press the brakes?
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Acrtually if you test lamps (maybe LEDS?) you will find white to be ground ..Black to be tail/marker... Red to be stop/turn....

Dale
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VolkswagenGerry
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jspbtown wrote:
Do you have one light per side?

If you do I assume you are running a module right? If not your brakes and blinkers won't work.

Like Joecoolcustoms said...test to make sure orange has keyed power. Press brakes (they are working right?) and does the white energize when you press the brakes?


There is one light per side, they are LED's so I do not know how they are wired internally.. like a standard vw tail light would have a dual fillament bulb per say..

I have not even got to the turn signals yet as I am just stumped on the brake lights not coming on.. turn signal switch is on agenda tommmorow.

I did notice the modual in the diagram Dale posted in this thread
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=554379

Joe I have two (two) prong switches in master I have put the oarnge and white on each set and no luck.. I have not yet put my multi meter on the oarnge wire up front to see if there is action up there at switch.. This is first on the plate tommorow when I trouble shot further..

Everything in my brake system is new from the master to the switches, ss flex lines, new steel tubing and wheel cylinders (swapped front to rear)
I bench bled the master as well as adding brake fluid (dot5) to the pin hole in the switch and carefully installing in an upright position.

I know its probably somthing so silly simple I will feel like a fool when I find it. just makes me wonder what is is...

I did notice before I called it a day my battery had dropped doe to 7 volts.. could the low voltage be not enough to give me a reading at the light..?
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VolkswagenGerry
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are the Tail lights I am using

http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Brake-Lights-Chrome-...tail+light
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last year at Manx On The Banks, a just installed new 2 prong brake switched failed and messed with my rear LED lights. Did not find the problem until we made it back home.

Start at the source of power, the orange wire and run it to the tail lights, the problem will show up.
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jspbtown
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I know its probably somthing so silly simple I will feel like a fool when I find it.


You haven't officially wired your car until this happens!

On my Avenger (the 9th car I have wired front to back) I couldn't figure out why none of my gauges worked until I realized I hooked up all the grounds to the sender locations and all the senders to the grounds....

And you definitely will need a blinker module when you get to that point.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to find out why your setup is not working before you start second guessing that you may need a different setup or additional modules or whatnots...

You say turn signal switch is not wired yet, a lot will depend on what your turn signal switch is and does the brake lamp wiring go through turn signal switch circuit..... IF you are using stock VW switch you "may" need a module to allow brakes and turn signa to function properly.... IF you are using aftermarket switch, brake lamp withing may go through switch and eliminate need for module....

Remove the two wires from brake light switch and jump across the wires, if stop lamps work, switch is bad..... IF they do not work, you either have no voltage to brake lamp circuit (check fuse or does key have to be on) or a problem at LEDS... Got grounds at LEDs?...

As I have mention in may other threads.... Your best friend may be a simple $5 test probe..

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Dale
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crowe66
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
As I have mention in may other threads.... Your best friend may be a simple $5 test probe..


so true Very Happy
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with everyone else on this, connect the orange brake pwr to the white brake switch wire, key on, and bypass the switch. you should have brake lights, if not you probably have a bad ground. Make sure you work out your turn signal switch before you buy one, or start to wire it since your not separating your stop and turn lights. I've got another guy doing a buggy with combo lights, but using 2 on each side, all for tail, 1 for stop, and 1 for turn.
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VolkswagenGerry
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it was a fuse.. we looked last night at a different fuse because the instructions indicate a 15 amp fuse .. pulled the fuse block out and chased where the Orange wire went..... it went to a 10 amp fuse which had blown..
I have replaced it with a 15 amp... brake lights working yay!!

Jeramey I was about to call.. there were several fuses in the wrong places and there was a 7.5 in the hazard location.. headlight need 30,,, it had a 20..
Brakes already mentioned were a 10.. and heater? had a 20..

Is the diagram of fuse locations correct? also flasher and horn relay on drawing are reversed.. makes it difficult to hold up side by side and compare fuse block to drawing.. fyi
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What if you flipped the diagram around, I had a guy tell me a couple of days ago that the diagram was upside down, but that is relative to how you mount your panel. Why was the brake fuse blown to begin with? I really don't recommend going with higher amperage fuses, remember, they are made to be a weak link in the system, If you go larger with them, It will find a weak spot to burn up.
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry the image is ruff, I had to resize it, put it on my website, etc. to give it a link.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mounted mine upside down because the way the main harness exited the panel so it would direct run to the drivers side and through the tubing to the rear. I told the new buggy owner it is right side up when I was laying on my back in the floor boards. Very Happy
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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VolkswagenGerry
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[img]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is the picture that was in my instructions..
You can see where I wrote what fuses actually came in these locations..
the brake light one was a 10 amp.. I did not note that in the pic.

What is the correct ?[/img]
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The picture I posted is of the fuse panel decal that came in a bag along with the fuseable link and the rubber grommet, go by that diagram. It looks the diagram you posted isn't in the instruction manuals anymore, at least the one's I have in stock. This is the first time it's come up, but usually the fuse layout doesn't come into play unless something gets shorted out. Sorry for the mixup.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, those are some generous fuse sizes. For years I have fused the brake lights and turn signals with a single 8 amp fuse. Assuming you hare using 20 watt brake light bulbs and 20 watt turn signal bulbs (15 watts is more common) then the maximum load should be 80 watts (for about half the time, 40 watts the other half the time.) Since amps equals watts divided by volts the maximum current is about 7 amps. That's for both circuits combined.

If the brake lights blow with a 10 amp fuse you have a serious wiring fault to find, or you are using aircraft landing lights for brake lights. Shocked
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeremy1984 wrote:
The picture I posted is of the fuse panel decal that came in a bag along with the fuseable link and the rubber grommet, go by that diagram. It looks the diagram you posted isn't in the instruction manuals anymore, at least the one's I have in stock. This is the first time it's come up, but usually the fuse layout doesn't come into play unless something gets shorted out. Sorry for the mixup.


So should I replicate my fuxe panel to match the one in the pic you posted?
Should I have a 10 or 15 for brakelights?
Is 7.5 adequite for the radio? is 7.5 adequite if I want ot run anouthe accesory off it.. Like interior accent lighting..

EVfun... I think I shorted it some how.. muts have had the battery connected while hooking up the hot wire at the switch..
Just using simple led lights..
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have a Rebel Wire rep that visits here, I would run questions past the manufacturer.

There is no electrical safety issue installing smaller fuses than listed. They may blow if the load is to high, but they will provide circuit protection. I generally prefer to determine the load and then pick a fuse with a current rating 30% to 60% greater than the maximum amps. Light bulbs have a startup current surge so the biggest light bulbs, the headlights (2 headlights typically run between 90 and 150 watts), should be protected with a fuse rated for 40% to 80% greater than their current demand. Smaller bulbs light up so fast the start-up surge is insignificant.

I'm going to have some of my own questions, their simple 4 fuse VW rail harness looks about right for my needs and it is simpler to buy than roll my own. I have a headlight switch with separate terminals for front parking lights and tail lights (the front parking lights are off when the headlights are on.) I also will be installing a relay system to combine combine brake lights and tail lights in the back and parking lights and turn signals up front.
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