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Rebel wiring harness questions thread
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Considering two 65 watt (standard) high beam lamps only draw about 9 amps and with 2 front marker (park) lamps and two rear tail lamps, I can not image main lighting needing more than a 20 amp fuse, the 30 amp seems a little excessive....

IF one really want to get fusing correctly maybe one of these will help you....

http://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp-automotive-fuse-circuit-tester-67724.html

Once you know actual current draw (amperage) of circuit you only need a fuse that has about approximately 25% -30% more capacity than indicated on tool...

So if a circuit was showing a 10 to 11 amp draw a 15 amp fuse would probably be sufficient...

Dale
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T-Buggy
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amidst all this talk of sizing the fuse based on the load, don't forget that the most important function of the fuse is to protect the wire that leads to the load. Be sure the wire is safe for the size of the fuses you are considering. Prevent your dune buggy from being a hot rod because of fire...
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Jeremy1984
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So should I replicate my fuxe panel to match the one in the pic you posted?
Should I have a 10 or 15 for brakelights?
Is 7.5 adequite for the radio? is 7.5 adequite if I want ot run anouthe accesory off it.. Like interior accent lighting..

EVfun... I think I shorted it some how.. muts have had the battery connected while hooking up the hot wire at the switch..
Just using simple led lights...


If you have the 8 fuse panel, replicate the one pictured, if you have the deluxe panel, I will get you the layout for it. Have you used the ac/heat pwr wire(light green) wire yet? if not, this is a fused switched hot that you could use, if you want a constant hot, you can come off of the yellow 12gauge headlight pwr wire, or the brown hazard wire(if you don't need it) in the turn signal bundle is a constant hot. It really depends on what kind of accent lighting, and how you want it to operate. hope this helps
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BIGMIKEY
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:


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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Joe;

I see you used a foot dimmer switch. Does it activate a relay for hi/low beams or actually carry the load for the headlights?

Mike T
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It carries the load just like a stock VW does. The dimmer switch is a stock VW unit from a '66 or ealier.
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
It carries the load....


Good to know! I just wired my floor mounted dimmer and that's how I did it also. I wasn't sure, but like Dale posted earlier in this thread, I calculated both headlights to carry ~9-10A, and the dimmer was rated at 15A.

Thanks,
Scott
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VolkswagenGerry
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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will a TRIDON EL13 (three prong) or a TRIDON EL12 (two prong) Flasher "plug and play" int the Rebel fuse block?
I am running all LED blinkers.. All is wired correctly but getting no blinky blinky..

Can I instal above mentioned Flasher or do I install Resistors?
Do I put one resistor per left side, one per right side?
Do the resistors need to be near the light or can they come off the switch for example?

Any opinions on the best way to do this.. flasher or resistor..
Cost vs simplistacy vs overall funtion.
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VolkswagenGerry
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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried the TRIDON EL13 flasher And I got some blinking however it seemed slow and was certainly dim... also seemed to not fully flash "off",
Seemed dimmer then brighter dimmer then brighter...
Do I need to add the resistors?
Anyone>?
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. You do not have enough resistance to trip the flasher.
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VolkswagenGerry
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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can I try a flasher like this?
http://www.amazon.com/3-Pin-CF-13-Electronic-Flash...+50W+6+OHM

Or resistors like these?
http://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor/dp/B004EDF8HY/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go resistors.


wvbowtieman had the same problem. He ran 58 chevy rear tails with LEDs and LEDs built in the headlight. The resistors fixed the problem.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try resistors... Should only need one set on rear....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Triton flasher need at least .200ma ( 2/10 amp) to operated. LEDS are notorious for not triggering most flashers, though I have always had good luck with Tridon units....

What bothers me is you say lamps do not go completely off... This means to me the you have lamps either wired wrong or have bad grounds..... Triton flashers are normally in OFF state and only come on when there is sufficient current draw (amperage) though
"Lamps/Leds".......

The slight glow of "off state" signals a problem to me and its probably NOT the flasher.... A flasher IS a mechanical switch so to speak, its either off or on through its internal relay contacts...

Where are your grounds connected?

What turn signal switch are you using?

Dale
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PaulzOx
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone used a connector of any type to make the engine harness a quick disconnect at the body?

If so, which one did you use?

Paul
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought about using one of the weather tight connectors I used on my blue buggy that I show on page 1, but it is only 4 connections to disconnent an engine. It takes me longer to disconnect the throttle cable and fuel line than to disconnect the 4 wiring connections.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PaulzOx wrote:
Has anyone used a connector of any type to make the engine harness a quick disconnect at the body?

If so, which one did you use?

Paul


I had thought of one of the the 4 prong trailer connectors (not a flat 4 style) the regular round trailer plug...

IF you pull engine maybe once a years or less, this probably not necessary but IF you have it out all the time because you are breaking thing, it can be a good idea...

Dale
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BIGMIKEY
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
I used the Beetle kit on my just finished blue buggy and it is the best kit I have ever used. Extra wire length, everything labeled about 12 to 18 inches, separated into f/r looms for easy sorting, modern fuses, turn signal so easy to hook up with no extra relays needed. High quality wire used in the kit. First time I tried the wiring, not one mistake or re-do needed.

For my next build I will try the Deluxe Beetle kit.

Lots of extra length for both F and R sections, so no piecing wire together.
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Does this kit need an extra relay for the 4-way flashers?

Mike T
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laughlin
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am also considering a rebel wire kit. Question I have is turn signal and hi/lo beam switch hookup. What switch is it designed for or what switch do you guys recommend using. I am a new buggie owner and mine has one in it but I don't think its wired right ir just not working.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Rebel kit I used had the wiring and flasher for 4 way hazard lights. I did not use it in trying to keep the dash as clean as possible.

The turn signal wiring is simple. 5 total wires. two forward, 2 rearward and one power in from the fuse block. I used a three wire signal switch on a stock column and grouped the two left sides together then grouped the two right side together to make 3 total wires. Left side, right side and power in.

The dimmer switch wiring is also simple. 3 wires. Power from fuse block. Low beam to the head light and high beam to the head light. I use the simple stock VW foot 3 wire dimmer switch.

Keep things simple and they will be simple to maintain and fix later down the road.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can wire in the flashers with a simple toggle switch and a special relay and tie it into the wire bundle on the swith like Joe uses.
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BIGMIKEY
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jspbtown wrote:
You can wire in the flashers with a simple toggle switch and a special relay and tie it into the wire bundle on the switch like Joe uses.


I have wired up a circuit like that on my workbench just to see how it works. There is also a DPDT relay that I have read about but can't quite get clear in my mind how that works.

Joe's description of the Rebel harness tells me it's all right there with no extra's needed except a switch. Sounds great to me.

And Thank you Joe.

Mike
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