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john.saylor
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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 8:16 pm    Post subject: bottoms out Reply with quote

Vw sand rail, irs rear with single gas adjust shocks.
Rear bottoms out too often with one passenger, ok by myself, should I adjust the torsion one notch or add two more shocks? thanks for suggestions
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buggy man
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

shocks dampen the bumps, they will not generally stop the car from bottoming out.
Adjusting the torsions will give more ride hight and up travel, but the sprig rate will stay the same.
If it were MY car I would get some type 3 torsion bars and use those as they have a higher spring rate and should handle the jumps better, if your beetle ones bottom out.
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pafree
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if it is a stock vw weight engine then try reindexing first. maybe one inner or two outer notches. i agree with buggy man with the shock dampen statement. how far is the spring plates from the lower stops?
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john.saylor
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

about 1/4 inch from stops
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john.saylor
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just took a better look at the distance for the stops it's more like a half inch
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AZ-BUG
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once you re-index, and/or go with a stiffer torsion bar you'll need additional dampening to control the rebound... so you really kinda need to do both. You'll be amazed at how much better it will ride...
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john.saylor
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Instead of checking the degree is it possible to note the position of the trailing arm with no load and simply pull the torsion out far enough to turn it one spline?
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pafree
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

john.saylor wrote:
Instead of checking the degree is it possible to note the position of the trailing arm with no load and simply pull the torsion out far enough to turn it one spline?


yes but it is best to check the degree angle after the spring plate is off the stop. it is just a baseline incase the spring plate doesn't come off the torison bar nicely. there are more outer notches than inner notches. the outer is more a fine adjust and the inner increases the tension faster. depending on if you plan to go up a outer notch then sometimes the torsion bar comes out with the spring plate and that is when knowing the starting angle helps.

if you don't have a angle finder then marking where the spring plate is on the housing or where is sits on the bolt holes after taking it off the stop can work. HF sell a cheap angle finder but a digital one will be a great tool to ad to your tool box.
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john.saylor
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for your help, looks like i'll adjust, in searching sites on procedure for re-indexing they instruct removing axles, brakes etc, am I not able to simply remove the three bolts holding the spring plate and the end cap?
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pafree
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

john.saylor wrote:
Thanks everyone for your help, looks like i'll adjust, in searching sites on procedure for re-indexing they instruct removing axles, brakes etc, am I not able to simply remove the three bolts holding the spring plate and the end cap?


with a rail then you have more room to work. you will have to remove shocks. you don't have to remove brakes or axles. remove the three bolts and carefully jack the diagonal arm, drum assembly up and secure with chains or strong straps. becareful not to pinch the brake lines. you will get more travel out of the arms upward without the axles but not necessary to remove.
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john.saylor
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just checked my rear travel with the buggy empty, 2 1/4 inches before I hit my stops
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bowtiebug
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would move the torsion 1 outter notch .
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john.saylor
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all! adjusted one outer notch, just covered the hole, it barely touches the stops now.
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john.saylor
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that I have increased the rear torsion it does spring back a bit more, bouncing a bit much, I'm using gas adjust shocks, should I add another shock to absorb the rebound or is there a shock that does both well
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AZ-BUG
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If using a rear shock in the stock location check out Class-11 rear shocks from Bilstein, Fox, King, etc. In the last couple of years they've changed the rules and allowed them to re-locate shock mounts, however prior rules required shocks in stock location and there were some pretty good reservoir shocks made for this class. The shock shown on the bottom will fit a stock shock mount, and will easily control any nasty rebound... the KYB's just don't cut it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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