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Yet another buggy build, here goes...........
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

while i am in there, would it make sense to try to replace the fuel line as a preventative measure?

hey Joe, any words of wisdom regarding how to get the batwing to fit? I already heat and beat it. it fits better, but........probably going to have to do more. probably going to involve sheet metal screws.

I already drilled a 1/2" hole in the back center of the batwing, and drilled a hole through the top of the napo hat and ran a 3/8" thr rod through.

when I clamped the front of the batwing to the frame head, the back was about 1" up, so I used this rod and some nuts and was able to draw the batwing down to the bottom of the napo hat by tightening. but the curvature of the rear center of the batwing doesn't match the curvature of the bottom of the tunnel, so it doesn't sit exactly right against the bottom of the napo hat. I stuck a torch to the batwing while it was held in place to relieve a little of the stress.

how do you know when the fit is just enough, where you can now start welding it in?

thanks for your help. I am sure the questions are going to keep flowing.. Laughing

steve
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pallen
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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, replace the fuel line.

I drilled holes along the peremiter flange of the bat wing and started at the middle, welded it, then started beating it down/clamping where I could and welded it down the rest of the way.
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK fuel line is out. did you replace it with 1/4" or did you bump it up to 3/8"?

thanks again for your help. your threads have been a huge help.

your buggy looks awesome!!
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clamp, tack, clamp, tack until you get it all attached. Not rocket science, just metal science. They follow decently except at the very front, sometimes. When I end up with a gap, I fill it in with 3/16 X 1/2 inch or 3/4 wide strip metal I get at Lowes.

For fuel line, I just bought 1/4 inch X 25 foot tubing from NAPA and replaced the line in the chassis I am working on. It is just a smidge larger than stock ( 7 mm) and since stock has flowed enough fuel for a dual carb 2165 for me in the past, 1/4 will be even better.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

got some steel welded inside the framehead to give it some reinforcement.
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POR-15 inside the framehead
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not sure how this dent got here. P.O probably hit a rock or something.
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more reinforcing
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

got the fuel line out

bought some 1/4" steel tubing from Napa as suggested by Joe.
Put some plastic hose on the outside of the 1/4" steel tubing to eliminate metal on metal contact. (hopefully)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Regarding the batwing I am fitting, I got it down pretty snug with the help of some clamps, self tappers, torch and hammer.

I fit in one end of the napol hat.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then I took the batwing off and worked on the fuel line and POR-15 inside the framehead.
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 1:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have also been buying parts

Bought front drum brakes and spindles from Carter's air cooled in Garden Grove. $40

Bought two rear stub axles and some rear drums from Jerry in Simi Valley. He had lots of cool stuff. lots and lots of parts. Bought some bearing caps as well. $80

all are OE German (I believe) and bought off Samba classifieds.

been busy........
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your work look great! Keep it up and before you know it, you will be driving that buggy!
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks Joe

I made an extra support bracket for fuel line and installed inside frame head.

The fuel line support tab inside the front of the tunnel isn't long enough to accommodate the 3/8" clear tubing i slid on the outside of the 1/4" steel fuel line. This can be seen in one of the previous pictures. I got it as tight as I could but this tab was a PITA to get bent around the new fuel line.

So I figured I would add another support. Overkill. probably but oh well.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So now I am wondering what else can I do while the batwing is off.

Probably going to install the shift rod. I am going have to cut it to length and weld in the adjuster. Will have to install the tranny for the shift rod fit up. I'll search around Samba for any threads detailing how to fit up a shift rod, cut to length, etc.....

Maybe install the clutch cable as well?

So my thinking is to do whatever else i can before I weld the batwing in.

Then I want to start to make a roller. maybe not complete and functional, but assembled enough so I can then focus on building the body lift and fitting the fiberglass body.

I am eventually going to add some reinforcing to the frame fork / rear strut mount / chassis, etc. my thinking is this reinforcing would be best fit up once the body and lift are all fit up.

My main plan is to assemble the buggy and fit up everything. disassemble the buggy, paint everything, and reassemble the buggy.

Everyone's thoughts / comments are welcomed.

Thanks!!

steve
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
My main plan is to assemble the buggy and fit up everything. disassemble the buggy, paint everything, and reassemble the buggy.


I have learned the hard way over many years that this is the best way to build any project.

One detail I may do on my Manx build is to put the F/R brake line in the tunnel to get it off of the drivers side floor pan. Right now while you have the bat wing off, you could put the brake line in the tunnel. It makes a cleaner looking build.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok that's good to know. Glad I at least got some of the thought process correct.

So my to-do lost with the batwing off is:

Clutch cable
Shift rod
Brake hard line.

Maybe shift rod bushing as well as a preventative measure.

Ok hopefully soon I will have pix of this all completed.

Thank you!!
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, no pictures but I did get some more stuff done.

I mounted the tranny and worked on the shift rod. cut it to length, welded up the adjuster. I had to remove the chassis from the rotisserie in order to install the tranny. when all done, i put the chassis back into the rotisserie.

got some parts from aircooled. miscl stuff. grommets, bolts, brake shoes , hardware, etc.

Tore down the engine last week with help of a buddy. It has an AS41 case, German i believe. going to get it machined / cleaned. leaning towards having brothers machine shop perform the work.

Anywho, back to the chassis. I replaced the shift rod bushing.

Now i am working on the clutch cable and clutch cable tube. deciding whether I should clean out and regrease.
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I got alot done this weekend, i think.

worked on the clutch cable tube.

and the fuel line. Sad

I ended up having to do some arthroscopic surgery inside the tunnel Brick wall

why might you ask, well here goes.

so for the engine I am debating between a 90.5 x 82 or 94 x 82. either way I am going to up the pressure plate to a Kennedy stage 1.

I am looking at Airkeweld's heim clutch cable assembly

So I figure I need to make sure the clutch cable tube is up for the task.

So in this picture, which I previously posted upside down but here is right side up, I saw 2 things I didn't like (3, if you count the emergency brake cable tube which is out of its support clip):

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


- the clutch cable tube is very close to the bottom of the tunnel, creating a large bend

- the fuel line was on top of the clutch tube. I wanted it below.

so I decided I wanted to straighten out the clutch cable tube. I tried installing the clutch cable but the threaded end wouldn't get past this bend.

I understand a stronger clutch will put more of a load on the clutch cable, and could potentially cause the clutch cable tube support points to break. so
this stronger clutch is also why i am looking at the Air Kewed cable system.

The PO made a support for the clutch cable tube and welded it down low. He must have done this during the shortening process.

So I made this jig / puller assembly with a J bolt, stuck the J below the clutch cable tube though the opening for the emergency brake. then I tighten the nut and it pulls the cable up.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also got a piece of pipe whose ID was just a little bigger than the OD of the clutch cable tube. I slid this pipe over the clutch cable tube and worked my way up the tube. I put leverage on the end of the pipe to try to eliminate the bend in the cable tube a little.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


a little leverage............tighten the nut.......more leverage.......more tighten the nut...........then snap. the support bracket weld broke.

This ended up being a good thing, because now I could almost completely straighten out the clutch cable tube. I did this by continuing to slide up the pipe on the clutch tube and pushing down on it a bit.

I put the clutch cable into the tube and it went all the way through with ease.
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so now I have to support the clutch cable tube.

but first i removed the fuel line and passed it under the clutch cable tube.
Unfortunately this involved undoing all I had done previously to support the fuel line.
Brick wall Brick wall Brick wall

Ended up putting some nicks on the tube while removing it so just ran a new line.

Oh well live and learn.......

So now I performed some arthoscopic surgery on the tunnel to reattach the clutch cable tube.

I looked in the emergency brake opening an noticed the clutch tube was right up against the throttle cable tube, right where the throttle cable tube was attached to the inside of the tunnel. I decided to weld the clutch cable tube to the throttle cable tube / bracket.

So I had to cut an opening in the tunnel, and ended up cutting a section out starting at the heater lever slot.

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looks like the weld is OK, all things considered.

Next I focused on re-attaching the support I broke off.

And I started by removing one of the flat bars i added over the shortening seam. luckily i only tacked it. It was in the way of where the support bracket would attach inside the tunnel.

I drilled an 1/8" feeler hole where I thought the bracket would line up. the bracket wasn't flush to the inside of the tunnel, so I had to find a way to accomplish this.

going off the feeler hole with relation to the bracket, I drilled a 3/8" hole through the tunnel. it lined up with the support. then though the hole in the tunnel, I drilled a 5/32" hole into the support bracket. I stuck a machine screw in there and hit it with an impact driver and presto, the bracket was pulled almost flush with the inside of the tunnel.

So then I drilled a 3/8" hole through the tunnel right below the screw. then I just filled in the hole with weld, starting from the support bracket and working my way up flush with the tunnel.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I removed the screw and it held fine. it was tighter with the screw so I put it back in and going to leave it. maybe just tack the head. the more support, the better, right? I hope so.

here is a peek inside the tunnel now. the longer screw is the one I added.

the shorter one below was a remnant from when the PO shortened the pan.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


whew......i think I am OK now.

eventually I will support the clutch cable tube where it exits the chassis as well, finalizing the reinforcement of the clutch cable tube.
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the tranny mocked up. connected shifter and hooked up shift rod.

all seems to work OK. can shift through all gears.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I am not sure of the history of the tranny however.

Not sure what happened here. something inside the tranny broke and hit the inside of the case, causing the cracks? i can turn the input shaft freely and shift though all gears. seems like it is ok. maybe something broke and was fixed in the past?

Anyone have an idea?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I couldnt find much on Samba detailing how to inspect a tranny. bits and pieces here and there.

Aside from rotating the input shaft and shifting through all gears, and inspecting tranny fluid for metal pieces, what else can I do to inspect the soundness of the tranny? I can't put it in another car and drive on it yet.

thank you all.

steve
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two ways to tell if a tranny is good without taking it apart, transaxle dyno and actually running it down the highway.

That may not be cracks, looks more like casting shrinkage marks from when the case was made.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I got pulled off the buggy project last year. I am getting back into it now. I am not happy no real work got done for the last year. But...................it was for a good cause..............an outdoor kitchen

[Admin note: Non-VW pictures are deleted from the Gallery.]
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jakerot
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So here is where I am:

Assembled and dis assembled the rear trailing arms, spring plates, etc

Assembled and dis assembled petal cluster, clutch cable, mounted tranny

Replaced the flat bar support I had removed when fixing the clutch cable tube support

Cut in the end of the nepol hat on the other side

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now I am fitting the body to the pan, and preparing to fab the body lift. I picked up some 1 1/2 x 2" x 11ga HSS. I think I am going to orient it with the 2" as the width of the lift and then1-1/2" as the height. So the 2" will be to accommodate the roll bar attachment.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The body fits ok. Going to have to work it into place. Some places are warped. Read I can try clamping the warped areas and slowly tightening the clamps over a period of days.

I am starting to assemble the front beam as well. The beam I want to use has the torsion springs in them. That's the way I got it. When I look at them closely I noticed the top tube has a bundle of 3 leaves and the bottom tube has 4. I also got 2 new front torsion springs which are 5 leaves.

So now I am wondering if the PO removed some leaves because this beam was installed in a FG buggy previously? Or are these 3/4 spring bundles stock at one time?

If the PO did in fact remove some of the leaves, I would like to keep it this way if possible. Opinions are welcome

Thanks all. Glad to finally be back on the buggy Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:36 pm    Post subject: Modded torsion bars Reply with quote

It would seem to me that something has to be done to reduce the spring rate with the drastic weight reduction that takes place when replacing a VW body and fuel tank with a buggy body. I have been contemplating removing some leaves as well. Do you have to put shims at the ends and the center portion when you do this?

Are you using a MIG welder?
storm
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