Early Sears Rascal Build for MOTB '13

wythac · Samba Member Joined: August 02, 2004 Posts: 2791

Joe, my late tail box Rascal has braces under the rear panel almost exactly the shape and placement that you have made for yours.

BIGMIKEY · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:36 am Post subject:

Joe, Following your 2 latest builds has clarified for me so many, many things unique to building a buggy. Mainly from the way you follow through with the picture documentation. Reading through one of your threads is like having a dang instruction booklet!

If I am ever in West byGod Virginia, drinks are on me and no s*it.

Thank you sir.

Mike T
_________________
BIGMIKEY

Deserter Series 1 project.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=787047&highlight=

1973 Beetle Driver, Marina Blue.

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 3:52 pm Post subject:

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 3:53 pm Post subject:

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 4:06 pm Post subject:

Well, the body was a little rougher than I initially thought. It has taken more block sanding than I expected. It has waves and bumps built into the body, that are now removed.

3/4 gallon of high build K200 style primer laid down in three separate coats and block sanded in between. After the first coat of primer, I found all the stress cracks, uggh! Cut them out and filled.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Laid down the first color on the body. It is supposed to be Bright Orange Metalic. It does have a boat load of metalic and looks more like a copper color. Hard to show the metalic, but it sparkles in the sun.

It has been crappy weather to paint and has slowed me down considerable, but, if I am to make MOTB '14, I gotta step it up.

Shot the clear and it does have a orange peal texture, but with 1 1/2 quart of clear on top, there is plenty to cut and buff. Should pop really nice in the sun.

Next is the body, and since it is already raining, wet sanding time. Wow, my arms are tired.
_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

sbussard · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 4:32 pm Post subject:

No one came to your block party??

Looking good Joe.

Scott
_________________
Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 4:39 pm Post subject:

karu · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 5:56 pm Post subject:

As always, great work Joe!

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 6:03 pm Post subject:

wythac · Samba Member Joined: August 02, 2004 Posts: 2791

Joe,

Are you planning any type of lift for the body? I planned a lift for mine regardless, but when I had the body sitting on the pan for storage with the motor installed during my build, it looked a bit like I would need to remove the body at least part way to get the fan shroud past the rear clip. Maybe the early tail box Rascals were trimmed a little higher. I went with 3" lift but I think on mine 1.5" would have been about the minimum needed to remove a complete engine without unbolting the rear of the body and lifting it out of the way.

You are pretty thorough on your builds with planning ahead, so I'm guessing you already have that sorted.

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 10:00 pm Post subject:

wythac · Samba Member Joined: August 02, 2004 Posts: 2791

Ha!.....of course you did.

I remember thinking after I saw my body sitting on the pan with the motor in that it was a good thing I was lifting the body anyway, because I was pretty sure that issue would have bit me in the ass after I had already fabricated a lot of stuff for the body to be at stock height.

Shock towers needed more room too.

Buggy Brian · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 2:41 am Post subject:

Wow! That is looking awesome Joe!!
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436

Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx

Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983

karu · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 4:12 am Post subject:

Buggy Brian · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 9:48 am Post subject:

Joe,
Are the numbers you're putting out there for the paint just for the hood? I'm trying to put a parts/planning list together, and am curious about the total amount of primer, paint, clear, and metallic flake I would need.

While I'm at it, I'm also trying to figure out where I'm going to come up with the talent to paint, etc...

Words like cutting and blocking to me are still a little foreign. I haven't really searched any body work threads though. If I can't find a good tutorial, I'm sure I'll be asking quite a few questions of you and others at MOTB.

Brian
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436

Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx

Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:38 am Post subject:

Brian, I follow these general steps when doing a buggy body AFTER all fabrication is done:

1. Work all fiberglass repairs getting the repair as close to perfect with glass and Cabosil.
2. 80 grit DA (Dual Action) sand the entire body and hood.
3. Feather any left over low spots, gouges and grind marks with body filler, no more than 1/32 inch thick.
4. Lay on a really thick coat of high build primer
5. Use a hard block and a semi-hard block and almost remove all the primer sanding with 80 grit paper in cross hatch patterns.
6. Do step 4 again.
7. Do step 5 again
8. Do step 4 again
9. Wet sand the entire body with 320 grit worn out paper on the semi-hard block until all orange peal is gone.
10. Go around the body with a fine tooth comb and nit pick out any flaws and fix them.
11. If the body is "done", spot in primer on exposed areas.
12. Spray the base coat, or top coat depending on single stage or base/clear.
13. After ample drying time, usually a week at least for me, wet sand the outside surface with 1000 grit paper.
14. Wet sand the outside body with 1500 grit paper until all the orange peal texture is gone.
15. Cut the body with a coarse buffing solution and a coarse foam pad
16. Buff the body with a medium foam pad and buffing solution.
17. If needed, use a fine foam pad and swirl mark remover.
18. Wax as desired.
19. Schedule elbow replacement due to lack of any grease left.

Laid down the base color on the body. Heavy metalic in the base. Will clear in a few minutes.

_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

Buggy Brian · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 11:30 am Post subject:

As always Joe, you're the best. I am still trying to decide how much I will be able to accomplish myself.

Unfortunately for me, working away from home during the week takes a great deal of time from me. I've found that having just a couple of hours a day 4 days a week isn't getting much done, and will probably have to farm out the majority of the body and fabrication work. I'll do the re-assembly of the mechanicals and tuning myself.

I will be working on getting the old paint removed from the gelcoat to see how bad it really is. Fortunately for me, there is very little body work (as far as I can see) that needs to be done.
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436

Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx

Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 12:43 pm Post subject:

Just plan out what you want the buggy to be in the end and work toward that goal Brian. The last thing I would dump money into is a large radical engine. You can always drive a stocker just fine. Chris, Tim and Paul drove stock engines across the US and back. Only problems they had was one electrical fuel pump, one clogged jet and a voltage regulator. I suggest focusing on High Quality Mechanicals, High Quality Electrical and the rest will fall into place as time abids.

Sprayed 3/4 gallon of clear and it shines like crazy. My camera just does not capture the color or the shine very well. But, you can see the tree leaves in the tops of the fenders, and the trees are across the road!

It just may make it to MOTB yet, one year late.
_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

wythac · Samba Member Joined: August 02, 2004 Posts: 2791

I looked back thru your thread and couldnt see what you are planning for a steering column...looks like you filled in the dash/cowl hole but left the hole in the firewall where it was, unless I just missed it somehow, that hole should be 2" lower. Are you using a U-joint at the bottom of the steering shaft?


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Early Sears Rascal Build for MOTB '13
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