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Finally! My '62 SC build!
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK! Got one floor repair done! This is what I was wanting to do a few months ago, but found too much rust under it... so, fixed all that! I didn't spend a lot of time grinding plug welds down, or the rear most seam, after the separation panel portion goes back up, and gas tank... it will be fine...

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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work!

Have noticed the rust issue in the trucks there is due to water getting thru the gas filler lid area. Will be fabbing up a water drain system for our SCs like the buses have to prevent that rust.
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work on the welding. What kind of welder are you using?
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Nice work!

Have noticed the rust issue in the trucks there is due to water getting thru the gas filler lid area. Will be fabbing up a water drain system for our SCs like the buses have to prevent that rust.


Thanks! I was wondering why just that corner was so bad. Will need to check into a drain system Smile
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1967250s wrote:
Nice work on the welding. What kind of welder are you using?


Thank you. I have a 15 year old Hobart 135. It's basically a Miller, but not as $$$. I run .025 wire and ar/co2 gas mix on 16ga. and thinner sheet metal. I go to .030 on thicker items.
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JoelH
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wrenchnride247 wrote:
OK! Got one floor repair done! This is what I was wanting to do a few months ago, but found too much rust under it... so, fixed all that! I didn't spend a lot of time grinding plug welds down, or the rear most seam, after the separation panel portion goes back up, and gas tank... it will be fine...

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Beautiful metal work man. Wanna come weld up my bus? Smile
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoelH wrote:


Beautiful metal work man. Wanna come weld up my bus? Smile


Thanks man. Your bus? I didn't want to do mine. Laughing
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the other cargo floor patch done. Next up is trying some of that crushed glass blast media for the floor, and then gray POR-15. Then, I can weld the separation strips in, new tank mounts, and vertical support.

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Didn't bother with the pix of fit up and finish welds they are just like the above photo's.
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fabbed a bracket for drivers side treasure chest prop. PO cut it out Shocked . The one for my engine lid was bent and a weld was broke, so, cut it out, and used it as a template.

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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got back on outside sheet metal again to finish off the last piece I'm doing for now. The rest will be done after I drive it a bit. The outer rocker is now done! It fit pretty good except one bend that was not bent enough, but easy fix in a brake. Just have cheapo etch primer on it for now (no filler either). Now its back to finish stripping the cargo floor for POR-15.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IOHO it would be better go with a high zinc content primer instead of POR-15.
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
IOHO it would be better go with a high zinc content primer instead of POR-15.


Why? Have you had problems with POR-15 on a project? I've not found a good primer lately (thanks EPA) and have had good results on two previous builds (one is 13yrs old) with POR.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have never use POR-15, but it is not going to galvanize the floor where most likely you are going to drag stuff across on occasion. Once any scratch or dent goes thru the POR-15 the rust will start all over again and even spread under the POR-15.
Zinc rich primer will stunt any future rust due to any scratches or dents if laid over the bare metal. Have tested this with our 1960 walk thru panel camper for over 20 years.
Make sure at least 85% zinc content or waste of $$ and we have been able to find as high as 95%.
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Have never use POR-15, but it is not going to galvanize the floor where most likely you are going to drag stuff across on occasion. Once any scratch or dent goes thru the POR-15 the rust will start all over again and even spread under the POR-15.
Zinc rich primer will stunt any future rust due to any scratches or dents if laid over the bare metal. Have tested this with our 1960 walk thru panel camper for over 20 years.
Make sure at least 85% zinc content or waste of $$ and we have been able to find as high as 95%.


Thanks, will try and find some to test. My 3M weld thru primer has plenty of zinc in it, but not good for use as primer under paint or body work. I've had to go back in to some POR-15 on my in-laws vert to weld some mounting points for after market fuse panel (mounted under back seat) and it was hard to get off. So, it should take some abuse from dragging stuff in and out of my cargo area. Which is why I was thinking about using it there Smile still not to the decision point of what's going in there though.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You definitely want to to use a filler primer over the zinc primer. Plus make sure to store the spray cans on side (this works really well for any spray can) and just before using stand up the can to be used for a few hours and flip it over now and then or the primer can come out like flocking. The zinc is heavy and will be first out if you just store the spray cans upright and just try to shake a little and spray right a way.

The brand we have been using was from NAPA but is NLA. For a test used the NAPA zinc primer lightly sprayed on a bare metal spot on the side of our bus, took about 2 1/2 years for the rust to start coming thru the primer and even then it was extremely stunted in our wet PNW weather. Down to our last can and will probably be trying Sherwin Williams auto body weldable high zinc content primer soon.

Here are some possible other brands to try:

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?ID=4

http://www.clearcoproducts.com/cold-galvanizing-high-performance-zinc-spray.html

First Zinc below looks good, would not use the Brite Zinc they have, tried that once on a spot on the bus and started rusting in less than a year, was not impressed with that corrosion resistance.

http://www.weldaid.com/brite-products/

If you find any other brands to try would really like to hear about them.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work !!! I had not seen this thread, your doing great !! Is that a Auto Twirler Rotiss. ??? Thats what I used on my SC.
Your very luckey that it's a Dual Chester, that second door is awsome, and I don't F*@ken have one ... Laughing
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the stuff SW sells.

https://www.sprayon.com/products/zinc_rich_galvanizing_compound/

and this cold galvanizing compound looks good. Plus a good price of $8.94 each with free shipping if you buy more than 49.00.

http://www.wayfair.com/Radnor-Ounce-Aerosol-Can-Co...Z3450.html

Both of these are an epoxy base, which the NAPA cold galvanize primer was.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Here is the stuff SW sells.

https://www.sprayon.com/products/zinc_rich_galvanizing_compound/

and this cold galvanizing compound looks good. Plus a good price of $8.94 each with free shipping if you buy more than 49.00.

http://www.wayfair.com/Radnor-Ounce-Aerosol-Can-Co...Z3450.html

Both of these are an epoxy base, which the NAPA cold galvanize primer was.


I can get the Radnor brand no prob. That's Airgas name brand, and I have an account with them Smile Will have to test this out. Read the label on my 3M weld thru again and it says it can be used as primer on one part of can, but the other part says you must remove it from any area that is to be painted Confused
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

crukab wrote:
Nice work !!! I had not seen this thread, your doing great !! Is that a Auto Twirler Rotiss. ??? Thats what I used on my SC.
Your very luckey that it's a Dual Chester, that second door is awsome, and I don't F*@ken have one ... Laughing


Thanks! It is a twirler, I love it, had it for about eight years!

I feel sorry for people working in single chesters... for a few seconds Laughing
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the welding is done! Well... in the treasure chest area anyway. Before the welding, I blasted with ground glass (very nice stuff) the areas I couldn't get with my 3M stripping wheels. Now, I need to POR-15 everything that's stripped. Sorry Eric&Barb, but POR-15 won out. I got the Radnor zinc primer (works great as weld thru primer), 2K primed, and painted a scrap piece of metal. And, after two days cure, I raked a screw driver across it and it went to bare metal. Anyone that's used POR-15 knows it takes a lot more than that to affect it. Also, in the pix you can see some black areas. That's POR patch (POR-15 in caulk form) I used it to fill some pin holes and deep pitting. It works great!

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