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wrenchnride247
Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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 Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 6:56 pm Post subject: |
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And POR-15 done! Just did all of floor and some going up sides for finishing later. I didn't get carried away with it in the gas tank area...you won't see it anyway with tank in and panels up. Later, will do the rest of cargo area walls.
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SPL
'62 SC 69x90.5 SP TI
'70 T1 84x105 DP T4 |
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wrenchnride247
Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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I finally got a chance to install my fuel tank! Got to extend the wires for the sender though since the repop is for a bus not DC or SC. Not a big deal though. Tomorrow will install fitting and screen filter, make new hard line to the engine compartment, Then, start checking electrical system. 
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SPL
'62 SC 69x90.5 SP TI
'70 T1 84x105 DP T4 |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24764
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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Looks great!
Are you going to install a reserve tap? Nice to have for when pulling an engine or replacing the flexable fuel line and you can shut off the fuel coming out of the tank.
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
Looks great!
Are you going to install a reserve tap? Nice to have for when pulling an engine or replacing the flexable fuel line and you can shut off the fuel coming out of the tank. |
Thank you. That's a good idea, but I don't have one. I guess if I have to drain the tank I will just pinch off the rubber line with my hose pinch pliers (yes they make them) and drain into a gas can.
Oh yeah, that Radnor zinc paint works great you recommended, and WAY cheaper than 3M weldthru I've been using. Don't know if you seen the other post about my "scratch test" so only use it in areas I can't get to after welding.
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SPL
'62 SC 69x90.5 SP TI
'70 T1 84x105 DP T4 |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24764
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:56 am Post subject: |
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VW does have a flex line fuel hose clamp featured in the workshop manuals, but still nice to not have to find that clamp and have the reserve feature when out on the long road.
Yes, saw your post about the zinc primer, but have not gotten around to using it yet. The old primer we used that is NLA is really tough, but anything will chip with enough pressure. Plus a primer is supposed to be covered with paint, and scuffing the metal to give the primer something to grip is a must.
Our 1960 walk thru panel has a big problem with one of the DPOs using too fine of sandpaper on the primer before spraying the paint and the result is the paint that peels off with a butter knife. Not good to have paint popping off at the slightest ding of a rock.
We might have to try several different primers to get the one that really works well.
Good to hear the Randor is working for those out of the way areas for you.
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wrenchnride247
Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
VW does have a flex line fuel hose clamp featured in the workshop manuals, but still nice to not have to find that clamp and have the reserve feature when out on the long road.
Yes, saw your post about the zinc primer, but have not gotten around to using it yet. The old primer we used that is NLA is really tough, but anything will chip with enough pressure. Plus a primer is supposed to be covered with paint, and scuffing the metal to give the primer something to grip is a must.
Our 1960 walk thru panel has a big problem with one of the DPOs using too fine of sandpaper on the primer before spraying the paint and the result is the paint that peels off with a butter knife. Not good to have paint popping off at the slightest ding of a rock.
We might have to try several different primers to get the one that really works well.
Good to hear the Randor is working for those out of the way areas for you. |
Already had the pinch clamps for a few years now, so, use what I got.
I understand about the primers needing good bond. Etch primers are supposed to be chemical bond (I still use at least 120 grit prep) and all others should have a good 80 grit "tooth" to hold good.
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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Its been a while since I updated, but progress is being made, some not really photo worthy (like wiring). Anyway, The piano hinge holding the treasure chest doors on was really bothering me so, been working on the drivers side one first (was about to fall off) before passenger side.
I got lazy on this repair and used a bay engine lid I got cheap from local VW parts guy. I figured the nut plates would be about the same.
Well, the screws were rusted bad on the plates, and I TIG welded some nuts on for good measure. I can't find the pic of them welded, but this will work. Also the bay outer skin looked good after blasting so, got lazy again and used them too.
I decided to TIG weld this patch in for no real reason.
Blasted everything I could get to, and treated with SEM rust mort. Peeling the skin off to get inner structure out without destroying it is time consuming so, just removed what I needed to.
Got everything lined back up and welded back together. Had to be careful with inner structure...made of 22ga. I took my time on this part.
I don't how long my SC had been missing its real hinges, but I think its happy now.
It is in primer where it was down to bare metal and drying. Will mount it up after work tomorrow and weld up the old holes on the body from piano hinge. Then, get A few small items done (more wiring).
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'70 T1 84x105 DP T4 |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24764
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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Good work! Do get the hinge seals in there soonest. They make a big difference in keeping out the water from the insides of the doors.
Hmm, are you going to dump the rest of that engine lid? Could use it to fix a lower side of an earlier lid we have...
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
Good work! Do get the hinge seals in there soonest. They make a big difference in keeping out the water from the insides of the doors.
Hmm, are you going to dump the rest of that engine lid? Could use it to fix a lower side of an earlier lid we have... |
Thanks. I do have all the hinge seals for the SC. I just took pic after final check mounted. Its back off letting primer cure.
I didn't pay attention to the bottom half...let me check tomorrow. If its good you can have it. I can cut it close to what you need to save on shipping.
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glideking
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Joined: February 02, 2013
Posts: 990
Location: California
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:40 pm Post subject: Re: T.C. Skin |
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| glideking wrote: |
| Excellent post. I will be doing my doors soon. Was the treasure chest door skin welded at the crimp around the edges? How did you get that apart? |
Thanks! I check out all your post! The skin was not welded at all, and the inner structure was barely spot welded it self. I tacked it in a few more spots to keep it from rattling.
I used door skin pliers like this http://www.eastwood.com/door-skin-removal-pliers.html
They work OK. But some areas I just used an old flat head screw driver...
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'70 T1 84x105 DP T4 |
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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I got the prop rod bracket I made welded in. I was going to weld it in like I did the engine lid one I used for template, but noticed passenger side treasure chest one (that is factory) had a little sheet metal "tab" bridging the gap between the top seal lip and the bracket...so, I copied what the factory did.
Now my door is back to factory!
With seals on door hinges my top gap is better now too! All offending piano hinge screw holes are gone!
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glideking
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Joined: February 02, 2013
Posts: 990
Location: California
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wrenchnride247
Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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| glideking wrote: |
Glad you pointed out that tab.Good detail. I need to add that to Funky as he had no t. c. door on that side. What spot primer do you use? Epoxy? Self etch?
Kurt |
...self etch. All outside work is temp till I tear it back down later to do everything for paint. I just want to drive it, and do more work while rolling this SC.
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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I do not want to "cut up" anything OG to my SC (unless its rust repairs) and since my air box cover is perfect... I made a new one to cut holes in  the bead is not exactly the same, in pattern or profile, but good enough for the job. I left equal space between the gauges if I wanted to add third.
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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Its' been a while, but much progress has been done. This is just a tease...most know where this thread is headed 
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Pacmanfever
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Joined: January 29, 2013
Posts: 201
Location: Kansas
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| Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Your workmanship is awesome, the repair on the doors looks perfect. Can't wait to see how this one ends up. |
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks man.
A pic of the rear 944 brakes. Axle nut not torqued or cotter pin installed.
Of course master cylinder upgrade.
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SPL
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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OK. After major problems with engine case (besides not being the one I sent to original shop  ) its getting close to stabbing in! This started as a 1600cc build, but changed my mind. Its now a 1776cc SP, W100 cam, 8.0 comp, full flowed case, and mod for dog house cooler.
Heads rebuilt with HD springs, reworked chambers, and SS intake valves.
Welded CW 69mm cranks are getting $$$$ got this CB 4140 CW 69mm for better price.
Case ready to close (almost)
Long block ready for valve train geometry.
Fitting sheet metal and exhaust.
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wrenchnride247
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Joined: August 17, 2010
Posts: 251
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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ISP West windshield in!
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'70 T1 84x105 DP T4 |
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