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Rear vent? Is it really necessary?
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0cean
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 6:50 pm    Post subject: Rear vent? Is it really necessary? Reply with quote

So the original vanagon was an air cooled van, so it makes sense to have as much airflow going into the engine compartment as possible. Then water cooled engines came along and the design of the rear vent never changed. Is it necessary to have the vent if you’re running a Subaru 2.2 and SS coolant pipes?

I’m thinking a mod involving the passenger rear air vent and movement of the gas filler/spicket/ nozzle thing for a Syncro Twisted Evil
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16CVs Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put your hand over your mouth and plug your nose and see if you really need all that air you are breathing .
Of course it needs those vents ,just because it is not Air Cooled it still needs air to run .
If you blocked those off you'd need another source of air to replace it .
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

16CV's wrote:
...Of course it needs those vents ,just because it is not Air Cooled it still needs air to run .
If you blocked those off you'd need another source of air to replace it .


What purpose does the driver's side vent serve? Seems like it would have nothing to do with the air intake on the WBX.

Of course the van would look a bit goofy with just one vent.
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denwood
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stock snorkel setup does quiet the intake, particularly for diesels...and this sits in the passenger side vent. I also use the passenger side vent for intake air to an air/oil cooler. The AC condensate drain exits in both vents. The driver side uses the vent area for AC line routing and drain, otherwise that side does nothing.

Other than that, you could plug the vents.
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahwahnee wrote:
What purpose does the driver's side vent serve? Seems like it would have nothing to do with the air intake on the WBX.

Diesels vanagons pull the engine intake air from our driver's side vent while the gas versions pull the engine air from our passenger side vent.
Having a vanagon body that accepts either engine configuration during build is the way to go. Wink

Diesel intake on top and gas version on bottom. The mounting tabs are on opposite sides of the snorkel but the vanagon body has provisions on both sides to accept either intake.
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luVWagn
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrodoka wrote:
Diesel intake on top and gas version on bottom. The mounting tabs are on opposite sides of the snorkel but the vanagon body has provisions on both sides to accept either intake.

Is anyone running one of these on drivers side for a suby swap? I've seen threads where ppl cordon off the pillar for air box stuff, but seems like something here could work too.

Or are these parts scarce?
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brownbus78
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The unused vent also lets a good bit of heat out of the engine bay. Seeing as how there's no fan back there (unless you've got an air cooled van) it's a good thing. Look closely in your sideview mirror at the top of the vent on a calm day and you'll see the waves of heat flowing up out of there after the engine is up to temp.
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The way I see it it is wiser to put the unused vent to use rather than delete them.Oil cooler, intercooler, transcooler etc. Anyway that D pillar would look daft without the vent.
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, more air please!

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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

in my brother's engine converted van we brought the engine bay coolant pressure cap up to behind that grill.
used a ATV pressure cap that allows use of an Expansion bottle
now no more troubles bleeding the radiator, it's a built in Libby bong.. Idea
just wish the German Engineers thought of it 1st so it's be that easy on all vans. Rolling Eyes

I plan to do the same when I do my next engine swap upgrade.

the vents are a low pressure zone, unless you add a ram air scoop like Timwhy (and others) did.

think of the rear vents as a heat chimney to remove all of the engine comaprtment hot air. before it soaks more heat into your rear matress pad.
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denwood
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coolant filler in d-pillar. That's smart.
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there's a wide variety of these out there for ATVs and motorcycles

nearly free at a u-pull yard and only a few bux from fleabay.

this is what we used.
top nipple goes to expansion bottle behind license plate
large bottom nipple T-s to the Heater return (T-stat bypass) hose
middle 2 nipples (redundant only need 1) burb air bubbles from the hot water out engine to radiator large line (tap in at a high point to capture air bubbles)

http://www.google.com/search?q=polaris+sportsman+7...mp;bih=982

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0cean
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danfromsyr wrote:
in my brother's engine converted van we brought the engine bay coolant pressure cap up to behind that grill.


It’s the same concept as what I would like to do, just putting a fuel fill cap there instead of a coolant cap. I’m thinking of cutting the air vent in half and make part of it flip out like a normal gas door on a car. Very stealthy…
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72wagun
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danfromsyr wrote:
there's a wide variety of these out there for ATVs and motorcycles

nearly free at a u-pull yard and only a few bux from fleabay.

this is what we used.
top nipple goes to expansion bottle behind license plate
large bottom nipple T-s to the Heater return (T-stat bypass) hose
middle 2 nipples (redundant only need 1) burb air bubbles from the hot water out engine to radiator large line (tap in at a high point to capture air bubbles)

http://www.google.com/search?q=polaris+sportsman+7...mp;bih=982

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Do you have a picture of the filler installation? I've been thinking of doing something very similar to this.

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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmmm very interesting though not sure something I'd do..

but maybe you'd get another Gal or 2?

0cean wrote:
It’s the same concept as what I would like to do, just putting a fuel fill cap there instead of a coolant cap. I’m thinking of cutting the air vent in half and make part of it flip out like a normal gas door on a car. Very stealthy…

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furrylittleotter
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 12:30 pm    Post subject: No. Reply with quote

You most certainly do not need the air vents. I filled mine last year and the van ran great, first with an svx plant, now with a 2.2. I filled them with steel from a scrap van. As far as warm air entering the intake; 1. there is so much turbulence under a vanagon I would wager the air temp in a suby equipped van is not much higher than ambient 2. Higher intake air temps supposedly give higher mpgs. (slightly less performance though). I moved my filler to the right side of the passenger seat platform, between the seat and door. Even more stealthy. It is a sealed system. There are no fumes.
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0cean
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’m thinking of just plugging the passenger’s side by adding a fuel entry port. The Subaru air intake is on the driver’s side and it’s not an enclosed engine bay, so I think it's do-able. Thanks for the feedback. Its helping me in my crazy quest.
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