Just shoot me.... 70 deluxe project

[skills@eurocarsplus]

the camera has to be next....just has to be....

so the best so far was running the right fan on low all the time.

so I tried a air foil on the torsion tube, facing rearwards. my lid still popped up.

so then I ran the left on low as a puller, and the right on low as a pusher thinking that it would go in one ear and out the other (ba da cha!) not working that way.

so, I guess the next step will be the camera and tape more ribbon to the fan shrouds, rip everything off and start over.

I am almost at 200 miles now. I just feel that it's staring me in the face.

another thought I had was even though I pinned open the thermostat, at higher rpm's I wonder if the water pump begins to cavitate due to too much flow. I am wondering if I should try to put a restriction in the system to slow down the water going through the rads.

*sigh* I was hoping to buy some of jake rabys time, more for a sanity check. really wishing the T4 peckerheads didn't make jake so bitter...

so, I will find my camera, and see what I can find. the next step is to take my donor engine lid and cut a hole behind the plate, and mount the plate on stand offs...
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[babysnakes]

[Keith]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

well, I will eat shit with a very small spoon

I have been defeated. after looking over a late bay, the vents are huge, the engine bay is a bit bigger and you late bay swappers win


after talking with mild-core, he has the exact same issues I have. it's like 77* here today, and I just cant keep the temps down on the highway. I am guessing at 70+, the turbulence under the bus is making a wall that won't let the air flow into the engine bay.

this isn't a problem with the aircooled engines, as there is a fan sucking it in and blowing it out the bottom when the engine bay is properly sealed.

I have tried:

no apron/bumper

a ton of sled tin/deflector combo's

removing some of my radiator seal plates

I am just throwing in the towel. my plan is to go under the bus. I have yet to put my heat tube in anyway.

I may try 1 last ditch effort of putting the radiators in parallel, not series.

blah....
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[Stuartzickefoose]

how about a plastic deflector to guide more air into the scoops to test that theory?

did you try creating a vacuum under the engine to promote airflow yet? maybe i missed that one?

got any extra fans? can you put second fans on the radiators, total of 4 fans? or a second on just one (2nd rad) for a total of 3 fans?
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Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

[Keith]

I know this may sound stupid but it actually worked for me in a Dodge Intrepid that was overheating like a bitch on a trip to North Carolina in the summer. Go get some of the special coolant that specifically states it will lower engine coolant temps by up to 50 degrees. It was called "Engine Ice", I was given it by a friend of a friend when we couldn't figure out an overheating issue. Worked like a charm ! If I didn't see it actually work I would have always thought that shit was snake oil. He uses it in his circle track car.

Oh and the overheating issue? The main rad fan wiring was melted.
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Formerly known in the forums as "OVALTEEN"

"I firmly believe that some villagers from Botswana could probably build a better road than PennDot."- Splitty

"If you do anything to your car someone will hate on you for it. People absolutely love to complain and find fault with others. Don't let it bother you. Just live and have fun."- Lind

[busdaddy]

The parallel rads may be worth a try, twice the flow and 1/2 the speed. How does the flow work now?, one top to bottom and the other bottom to top?
There was someone recently posting about some clear plastic deflectors that went on the cooling scoops and added a couple inches to them, can't find it right now but some tape and cardboard would do for an experiment.
What coolant mix are you using?, straight antifreeze runs hot, it has to be mixed with water.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Sloride]

Don't give up on it yet. I can't see the openings for an earlier type 1 bus making that much of a difference with air flow.

Have you tried contacting subarugears? They put a 6 cylinder suby in a bay and in the heat of Australia.

I have pictures of the belly mount rad in my signature line build thread. Nothing sexy. Plan was to get it working then pretty it up.

The fans cycle on about every 15 minutes or so on the highway if I keep the speed down to 55-60 mph. Once I get up to 70-75 they are on almost constantly and hold the temps to 210-215 on the hottest days. I just got back from a 2000 km trip to Maine from Ottawa with my wife and kids and the little motor pulled like a champ through the white mountains. Only had to gear down to third twice.

Craig.
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1972 Westfalia - 1.8 VW in-line h2o conversion
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Link to the engine swap:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565304&highlight=

1964 Ruby Red Beetle

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=705757&highlight=ruby+red

[skills@eurocarsplus]

hey guys....

I am running straight water at the moment.

*sigh* well, you can't say I didn't try...and the bitch is, I really like the way it looks

stuart, no room for any more fans. I can't see having fans that run at highway speed, it's just unacceptable.

I may try 1 last thing, and that will be a restrictor to slow down the flow in the rads. after that, she is moving under the bus...
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[Stuartzickefoose]

[Vee Dub Nut]

Here are the plastic "earz" folks are referring too

http://www.justkampers.com.au/search/result/?q=Earz
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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (TBD)

74 Transporter (EJ25 Swapped) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut

[Sloride]

I thought straight water cooled better. Adding anti freeze does just that and keeps it from freezing in the winter. Adding the water wetters supposedly to just water help it cool better. I added to the 50/50 coolant water mix in my coolant system and didn't notice any difference. There is supposedly a product called Evans I believe that is a waterless coolant that works well.

I think adding the ears will look goofy but you might as well try them to see if it makes a difference.
Craig
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1972 Westfalia - 1.8 VW in-line h2o conversion
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Link to the engine swap:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565304&highlight=

1964 Ruby Red Beetle

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=705757&highlight=ruby+red

[Vee Dub Nut]

I'd just caution on giving up too quick... Yea I'm sure you've tried a lot of things, but give it some time and keep playing with it. Don't jump ship as soon as it gets rough. I think it can be made to work, but it might not be a very straight forward solution.
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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (TBD)

74 Transporter (EJ25 Swapped) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut

[Keith]

Though pure water transfers heat better than antifreeze, antifreeze makes the coolant more stable at temperature, also acts as a lubricant and raises the boiling point of water.
_________________
Formerly known in the forums as "OVALTEEN"

"I firmly believe that some villagers from Botswana could probably build a better road than PennDot."- Splitty

"If you do anything to your car someone will hate on you for it. People absolutely love to complain and find fault with others. Don't let it bother you. Just live and have fun."- Lind

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[Keith]

[rustbus]

Hmmm sorry to hear it's heating up

I wonder, what would happen if you blocked the intake ears entirely? Clearly they're not helping. Are the rads sealed completely to the intake ...plenum?

Probably wouldn't help, it's just odd your having this pressurization problem, but for sure it's airflow related.
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May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
my Bus thread

[Stuartzickefoose]

no disrespect taken, im totally okay with being wrong. i am only speaking from the small knowledge i have. no hard feelings!


any chance a thicker radiator would make a different? instead of a single pass do a dual, or triple pass radiator?
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Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

[1967250s]

Just curious, didn't see it mentioned, do you have a way of checking that both radiators are full/bled of air? Also, maybe since the radiators are plumbed in series, one is working harder than the other, maybe set them up in parallel? Maybe just one radiator would be enough? Shame to waste that beautiful work on that engine bay. Be nice to see this figured out, best of luck.

[skills@eurocarsplus]

*shrug*

as far as I can tell, the rads are full of water (that's using a infrared thermometer)

although I have made the pipes to run them under the bus, I have thought it over, and will try 1 more rabbit radiator under the bus. I have a used one that was in good shape, so other than making some T's, it will be a pretty quick last ditch effort.

I was looking at some Porsche cooling systems, and they use a left, center, right setup as well.

I am convinced it is airflow issues because its fine around town, and gets worse the faster I go.

this is a last ditch effort before it all goes under the bus. I will report back later on how #3 works
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