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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hot water heat... that's the only thing keeping me from driving the bug around all winter. It's been COLD here in B-lo. It hit 23* the other day and i was happy to walk around with no coat. Too many negative seven degree days this season. Brrr...
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More Parts on the way!!!

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It takes more effort to turn the Subaru engine over than the bus / bug aircooled one, so I'm upgrading...so what did I get? I got a pair of adapter plates (one for the bus, one for the bug) from from WestyVentures (http://westyventures.com/parts.html). These adapters will allow me to use the same SR0408X TDI starter in both vehicles. The bus (with the 091 transaxle) requires the manual adapter, the bug (or pre 091 busses) use the automatic adapter. Both are $75 including shipping.

Here's a quick blurb from WestyVentures that gives some additional info:

Quote:
"MORE-TORQUE" starter adaptor for engine conversions: Most adaptor-plate conversions had been using the 'Hi-Torque' IMI starter. These have been known to fail frequently and do not have enough speed OR torque to start most high-compression engines, especially the diesels and some Subarus. Even the 'new improved' versions offered are no better. I have developed this adaptor to utilize the commonly available, powerful (1.8~2.0 kw) and reliable starter from the 1996 - 2003 manual-trans VW TDI (diesel) cars, the SR0408X/409X. The adaptor mates with this starter to provide an easy installation to the waterboxer manual-trans bell housing. The SR0408X/409X is a Bosch high torque gear-reduction type starter, is slightly longer than the stock wbx starter, and has a self-supporting shaft-- it no longer requires the pilot bushing to position the shaft end. On Syncro applications with locker, a 3/4" notch will be required in the diff-lock bracket, and youmust use the longer (2.25") type bracket (photo below) and corresponding locker pin. Sorry, it will not work with the short bracket unless you extend both the bracket and the locker pin. The adaptor will work with ALL conversions using a Kennedy, Eurospec, SmallCar, Vanaru, or Tiico engine adaptor plate and stock-diameter ring gear, also with the stock Vanagon WBX. The 'automatic' version adaptor is essentially a thicker version of the manual adaptor - and has been shown to be a good fit for the earlier Bus or Beelte manual transmission (70's) so we've got you covered there as well.


One last thing to mention... If you have a pre 091 transaxle, or are doing a conversion in a bug, you can use a SR0407X starter WITHOUT an adapter. All it requires is filing the holes in the flange of the starter slightly to have the bolt holes line up. I decided to spend the long dollar and use the adapter for the bug for 2 reasons. #1- it allows me to us an unmodified starter, so if there's an issue while I'm out and about I have a pure bolt on solution. And... #2- this allows me to use the exact same starter in both vehicles, which appeals to me for some reason.

Here's a link to some info on the SR0407X starter modification. There's someone here on TheSamba that did the mod and it worked well.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=142624&start=15
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I FOUND THE PERFECT BUS RIMS!!!

They are 16" x 6" Mercedes Benz steelies (part#A2034001602) that will fit a big brake kit inside them. At et31, the offset is perfect and wouldn't require spacers, adapters or longer wheel studs. They're stock 5x112 bolt pattern, WITH the 66.7mm centerbore that we need to clear our hubs! They will literally bolt right on, AND brand new ones are cheap (from a dealer no less) at $85 a pop. Add properly rated Yokohama Geolandar 215/75R16 OWL tires to them, and you can pretty much go anywhere, do anything, and give your bus a slight lift at the same time. I got excited, so I ordered 5 of them (plans to do a swing away gate on the back with a spare), and did a revised photochopping of the bus:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And then my hopes and plans and dreams were CRUSHED when my order got DENIED?!
What...?
Turns out that these rims are not DOT approved and so Benz of USA will not import them, despite the fact that they're approved for use on the Autobahn?! ugh. rules.
soooooooo...
In a misguided effort to get what I want, I went to EBAY Deutchland and Kontakt-ed on every single person who is selling a set of 16"Merc rims.
I even emailed them in Deutch-- "Guten Tag & Hallo! ... Ich bin an den Felgen Sie zu verkaufen haben"

I hope that means what I hope that means!!!!! Very Happy
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got MORE Stuffs coming!!!!! .. and half of it for free Smile

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RIMS
16x7 steel BMW rim (Style 12 rim) from a BMW E36 318i M44 1.9L
. part# 36111095013 http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-318i-M44_1.9L/Wheels/OEM_Steel/ES64398/
. Bolt Pattern: 5x120
. for use with M12x1.5 studs (requires drilled out) & 60* conical seats lugs
. ET 47
. Centerbore: 72.5
cost... FREE!!!!

It does require the following from T3technique though http://t3technique.com/ Loogy's been great, i recommend him to everyone for rim advice!
. (4x) Custom Vanagon Wheel Adapters  -- 5x112 to BMW 5x120 adapters at 18mm (to give an offset of 29)
.  37/64" Drill Bit
. (25x) Open End Conical Seat Lug Nuts (19mm head) -- the extra set is for hanging the spare (which may wind up being a lock nut set)
. Total cost: $412.73

Powdercoated silver: $?.??

I'm gonna have to remember to remove the two small set bolts that hold the drum to the rear hub while the wheel is off, otherwise they'll prevent the rim from sitting flush!!!


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


TIRES:
YOKOHAMA GEOLANDAR A/T-S 215/70R16 100S RBL

load rating 1764@51psi
28 lbs
28” tall
$122.00 each w/ Free Shipping & -$25 web discount = $463.oo from Discount Tire
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireD...amp;cs=215
you can find the tire itself for cheaper, aroung $107, but then they charge $75 or so for shipping. This option w/ free shipping is significantly cheaper.


Here’s a guy running 215/70r16’s on the Merc steelies that I wanted. I think this is as big as you can possibly go without having rubbing issues (there’s also guys who run 215/75r15’s on splits and bays. Those wind up being 5mm shorter and they don’t report any issues either. cgdennis is one of them, if he wants to chime in)

Cheron wrote:
airkooledchris wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I love that look of the 16 inch steel Mercedes wheels. No modifications needed to run them?
They look insanely tall with those tires - id be surprised if it would give you an accurate speedo and/or mess with the load placed on the engine.


I have just raised the car a notch behind. In front it is not done any thing. The wheels are 7.5x16 "with 215-70-16 tires.
The speed is 10 km / h too little, according to speedometer.
As long as I am aware of it and running nicely I notice nothing of the car is raised. This is a cruising car, no rocket on the way:)

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notchboy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats pretty bad ass dude. Is your bus raised at all?
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

notchboy wrote:
Thats pretty bad ass dude. Is your bus raised at all?


Stock height until I bolt them meats on!!! Stock 185r14's are 25.6" tall, So this rim/tire combo'll give me a 2.4" lift... kindov.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nepenthe88 wrote:
Here’s a guy running 215/70r16’s on the Merc steelies that I wanted. I think this is as big as you can possibly go without having rubbing issues

..depends on whether you're doing anything to the body. The 4X4 Bay Westy at the Wolfsburg museum sits on (very worn) 7.00x16 rubber, which work out to ~30" tall. The rear of the front wheel arch is modified, the jack point is relocated rearwards and it *looked* like the beam had been lowered (therefore lifting the body) but I didn't have a tape measure handy so don't quote me on that. Besides, there were "Please Do Not Stroke/Bitte Nicht Streicheln" stickers on all the cars...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


.. if I had a beater Bus to cut & weld on, I'd totally look to replicate the wheel/tire combo that rig had. It's pretty badass...
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

notchboy wrote:
Busdriver79 wrote:
I'm going to start my water pumper conversion this summer...I bought the KEP adapter and other bits to get things rolling...however, the bus is buried up to its bumpers in snow right now...I'm using a GM inline four...they call it the Iron Duke...it's carbureted with a Weber 2bbl, and it has very low miles, plus it's on my engine stand right now....my 2.0L Type 4 needs a rebuild, because it sounds like a cement mixer whenever I start it...after reading horror stories about rebuilt cylinder heads costing over $1500, and then spending close to or over $5000 total, a non VW conversion is the most attractive alternative....the GM four is a 2.5L displacement and makes 90 hp stock...no EFI or ECM...just keeping it simple....the biggest bonus ?...hot water heat ! Very Happy



Im right there with you. Joe - JMSkater found a place local that sells low mileage suby motors delivered with 1 year warranty in the 650-850 range depending on year and displacement. So Ill sell my intact 93 Legacy with 175k on it and water and oil issues and buy one of these! Ill get the rest in a junk yard for cheap.

So when Joe pulls the suby from his bus(stuart killed it I think) Twisted Evil - I will start on mine and maybe stuart as well.

Im looking forward to uphill power, crisp acceleration and hot water heat!



i was in the passenger seat and had absolutely NOTHING to do with its destruction.

i will point out however, i did recommend we added oil before we left and i said "hey joe, your oil pump is leaking pretty badly" to which he replied "no big deal, it has been like that for a a while"


Rolling Eyes

Laughing
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tristessa wrote:
..depends on whether you're doing anything to the body. The 4X4 Bay Westy at the Wolfsburg museum sits on (very worn) 7.00x16 rubber, which work out to ~30" tall. The rear of the front wheel arch is modified, the jack point is relocated rearwards and it *looked* like the beam had been lowered (therefore lifting the body) but I didn't have a tape measure handy so don't quote me on that. Besides, there were "Please Do Not Stroke/Bitte Nicht Streicheln" stickers on all the cars...


Hmmm... well the 4x4 bay would have had a completely different front suspension + drivetrain anyway, so I don't know if that's the best example to look at. Regardless, I hear what you're saying. And I know I'm pushing the tire size to the limits. I don't really have much issue "massaging" the wheelwells front or back to make them fit without having clearance issues. We'll see what if anything needs to be done. Consider it a grand experiment on my dime Very Happy

And Stewart... don't make me break out the German "Don't be Strokin'" stickers when my fleet gets there! Laughing


oh... one last thing(s).. I worked a deal with some suit on craigslist and got another full set of 16x7 et47 Bimmer Steelies for $80. So now I have a spare, and three more spares to back that spare up, haha! Just picked them up.

Also.. I got emails back from a handful of Germans selling the Merc steelies. Looks like shipping alone is right around 200euro. Way too cost prohibitive. BUT! If you're making an Octoberfest trip to the motherland, it would be a fun side adventure to smuggle some home.

AND... I found a local VW guy (and talked to a local auto dismantler), both of which were willing to sell me the proper BOSCH Manual TDI starter motors for $75. Used of course, but whatever. That's the same as the core charge for a new one at FLAPS.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nepenthe88 wrote:
Hmmm... well the 4x4 bay would have had a completely different front suspension + drivetrain anyway

I don't know about *completely* different -- it's still torsion bars & trailing arms:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Moar pikshurz hear: http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/howlingmoki/library/Wolfsburg%20Germany%2014-05-2013


.. and I'll leave it at that instead of threadjacking -- this is about *your* Bus and the stuff *you* are doing with it. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tristessa wrote:
.. and I'll leave it at that instead of threadjacking -- this is about *your* Bus and the stuff *you* are doing with it. Very Happy


Heck NO! I keep this thread so I can remember what I did, and so others can learn from my inevitable mistakes Very Happy "Threadjack" much appreciated. Besides, that 4x4 bay is SICK! And it's kinda fun to think that VW was experimenting with their vehicles in much the same way we experiment with ours (only they've got a MUCH larger budget, and WAY more resources.. Damn them!!).
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I had a "spare" Bus to cut/grind/weld on, I'd totally be borrowing ideas from that 4x4 Bay .. but instead of replicating exactly, I'd raid VW's parts bin. Lifted Quattro Bay, anyone? Twisted Evil
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Called around today and got quotes for powdercoating. Costs for 4 rims were significantly WAY more than I thought (Sad face... I'm into this rim/tire combo more than I originally planned). Instead of going to the big shops, I opted to go to the "mom and pop" guy that came highly recommended off the interspace. He was middle of the road on price, but lives about 4 miles down the street. Gotta feel better about keeping money in the community. That and he said he uses a dental pick in the deep groove after melting all the sludge out in the oven. Gotta feel good about a one armed man using a dental pick on your rims Very Happy

Total cost ..... $350 for sandblasting, dental picking, powdercoating silver and a clearcoat. Ouch Confused

That puts me at +$350 (powdercoat) +$463 (tires) +$80 (4spares) +$413 (adapters and hardware) = GRAND TOTAL of $1306.oo
...poor piggybank
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had 5 rims powdercoated for 125 plus tax at schwabb....shudda waited homie, wouldve been happy to help ya mount n balance stuff out here... Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuartzickefoose wrote:
Just had 5 rims powdercoated for 125 plus tax at schwabb....shudda waited homie, wouldve been happy to help ya mount n balance stuff out here... Wink


sigh..I knew when I agreed that I was paying the B-lo hinterland price. Some things are just more expensive here cause the market is so small. Oh well... At least I get them mounted and balanced for free. That's something anyway :/

Besides.. I really couldn't wait. The 195r14's I have mounted aren't rated for a bus and there's NO WAY I'm making a bazillion mile roadtrip to move me and my crap to Seattle on questionable rubber. Buying a set of Hankook RA08's is pointless cause they're crap in the snow, and I'm pretty sure BFGoodrich only makes tires to fit 14" rims under a BloodMoon on February 29th. Silliness that.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bfg makes one size in 14...and its not hard to find.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gonna fit like a glove Shocked

Um.. haha, there's a little bit of wide angle lens perspective distortion going on here, but by the looks of things they should tuck pretty well. Remember, only 1/2 of the additional height needs to be tucked under the arches, the other 1/2 provides lift, so there's some serious visual misinformation going on here. Regardless, after lining everything up, if I do have to trim anything it looks like I'd have to trim the front lower corner of the front wheel arches, but even then it looks like it would only rub on corners at full bump.

Does anyone know how many inches of travel the front suspension of a bus provides?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More parts ordered!!

I got a PAIR of SR0408x OEM Bosch starter motors from LKQ dismantlers (phone # 888.836.2336) for $184.88 including tax and core charge. That's cheaper than one brand new one off ebay before core charge!! SCORE! And they were able to rustle the pair of them up and have them sent to the hinterlands (aka B-lo) in 3 days. Not too shabby. Just have to go pick them up at the warehouse... I figure while I'm there I might even inquire about a pair of BMW power window motors so I can have power windows in the bus. That'd be nice!! (hell, it'll work in the bug too... maybe I'll by TWO mated pairs?). I just need to find a part number for them. Research time (gives me something to do in class today).
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

power windows baby! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nepenthe88 wrote:
Gonna fit like a glove Shocked


The fun starts when you go away from a straight-ahead position with those big tires! Just fitting in the wheel arch isn't enough, you need room to swing those wheels back and forth around the ball joints.
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