A Black & Blue Su-BUS-aroo Build Thread...

scirocco_crazy · Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:42 pm Post subject:

Great Job on the thread, I see some friends of mine have been following this build. Did you figure out the brakes? How about rear disks for about $150?

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:11 pm Post subject:

Nepenthe88 · Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:29 pm Post subject:

Nepenthe88 · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 4:43 pm Post subject:

Time for an update. First, I got a Hitch from Jamie Rivers at http://www.globalserve.net/~jrivers/latebayhitch.htm. It's a nice piece and installs pretty easily (hardest part is holding it and the bumper in place with your leg while you zip the bolts in). For me of course it took a little more effort since I had to cut away the hitch the previous owner welded on.. and boy oh boy did he use a lot of weld. Very little of it penetrated the brackets or bumper. Most was just laid on top of the original crappy welds. Fat lotta good that was gonna do! Regardless, I had to use an acetylene torch to get it off, and then grind everything away. Anyway... the rear part of the receiver is flush with the back of the bumper (or would be if I hadn't cut a square out of the bumper to get the old one off), so there's no shin crunching... unless I leave the ball on. Here's a pic pre install. Didn't interfere with the exhaust or anything.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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a Black & Blue Su-BUS-aroo

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Nepenthe88 · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 5:04 pm Post subject:

And then I spent the past 2 days doing brakes... It's not as difficult as I expected (I've never done rear drums), and would have been pretty much a breeze... If I had all the parts and tools I needed Confused

Anyway, here's what I started with on the drivers rear. The other side wasn't much better:

Goodness!!! I'm not even sure how the bloody thing stopped. I actually feel kinda silly having put 110 miles on the thing. At least no one's dead!!! Anyway, In order to change the rear backing plate, the hubs need to come off. I had planned on using the torque multiplier tool I have and used to take the rear axle nut off the bug (36mm), but.. um... Huge oversight on my part! The rear nut is 46mm?! Ugh. Turns out no one carries a 46mm socket. NO ONE. But fortunately, a 1-13/16" socket is within a 1000th of an inch. Bought that one. And it fits well.. Unfortunately my gun wasn't strong enough to get the nut loose (260ft/lbs). So I bought another one... which wasn't strong enough... so I finally went for the creme-de-la-creme of home mechanic impact guns. It's an Ingersoll Rand 231C. Max Torque 600ft/lbs, and a nifty little switch that lets you change the amount of torque you apply in the ON direction. Worked like a dream (though a larger compressor would have been nice)

All that running around cost me an entire day basically. Silly anti-efficient day because of a relatively small oversight. Drives me crazy.

So then this AM I assembled the rear drums Please take a look and tell me if you see anything missing or out of place. Hub off:

hub on:

and drum on w/ adapters:

Doing the rears took most all morning and into the afternoon. Not because it's really takes that long but because there's no horseshoe clips in the rear hardware kit. WTF?! It's a pretty innocuous piece. PUT IT IN THE KIT!!! Anyway...There's one trip to FLAPS. Then... when I was installing the anti squeeeel springs I shot a pair of caps clear across the driveway and into the lawn somewhere, lost forever. That necessitated a SECOND trip to FLAPS. Ugh. Here's the passenger side. Again, take a look and tell me if I did anything Dumb:

And since I have to re-bleed the entire system, I put new flexy lines in at all 4 corners:

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a Black & Blue Su-BUS-aroo

Follow my adventures in the GoWAND'RLoST bus on Instagram:
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Nepenthe88 · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 5:15 pm Post subject:

Then I moved on to the fronts. Hope of a quick fix almost immediately dashed...This is the Passenger side caliper. The dust boot has been chewed almost completely away:

Sooooo.... That's probably why the bus dives to the left when braking. I'm not entirely sure that piston is working. To fix it, I bought a pair of caliper rebuild kits for (what I believe) are ATE calipers. Just gotta wait the week and a half for them to get here. The driver's side isn't much better, so I'll do both. And then there's this:

Hmmm... I THINK the water's getting in thru the speedometer cable hole. I hadn't noticed but there's no cotter pin on the cable end. The wheel bearings need changed here as well (obviously) as it's a bit lumpy when it spins. Thankfully I bought inner and outer bearings and seals for all 4 corners. This is the only corner I'm gonna do however as the other three corners all spun great and the grease still looked clean. I just re-packed a little more in there.

So. I'm at a standstill with the bus on jackstands slowly sinking into the asphalt while I wait for rebuild kits.
_________________
a Black & Blue Su-BUS-aroo

Follow my adventures in the GoWAND'RLoST bus on Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/gowandrlost/

skills@eurocarsplus · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 7:09 pm Post subject:

honestly, I would cancel the rebuild kit and just order 2 new/rebuilt calipers. for the time you will spend screwing with them, and seeing how ugly they are, I personally wouldn't waste the time.

I think you will get them apart and get your feelings hurt by what you find
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Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 7:36 pm Post subject:

Keith · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 8:43 pm Post subject:

Nepenthe88 · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 5:58 am Post subject:

^^^ ok.... done and done. Rebuild rotor squeezers OTW
_________________
a Black & Blue Su-BUS-aroo

Follow my adventures in the GoWAND'RLoST bus on Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/gowandrlost/

Tcash · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:41 am Post subject:

Hi

Note how your upper springs are stretched out. Can't find it, but there was a post on the upper spring holes being in the wrong place.
It has been reported that the drums rub on the new backing plates. Seems easiest solution is to have some material cut off the drum on a brake lathe.

Good Luck

Nepenthe88 · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 12:30 pm Post subject:

Front bearings got done both sides today inside and out. Water was definitely getting in thru the speedo hole, someone had siliconed it in the past. I'll probably do the same after I send the speedo cable out for new ends and the ratio adapter. So, the backing plate was cleaned up. Spindles looked good. I also painted the grease cap to match the rims. Think it looks pretty good. Just waiting on calipers and a system bleed at this point.

_________________
a Black & Blue Su-BUS-aroo

Follow my adventures in the GoWAND'RLoST bus on Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/gowandrlost/

Nepenthe88 · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 12:40 pm Post subject:

Tcash · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 12:40 pm Post subject:

Speedo cable grommet

Nepenthe88 · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 12:54 pm Post subject:

Tcash · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 1:52 pm Post subject:

Can't find it, but I seem to remember finding an o-ring behind the "C" clip.

GeorgeL · Samba Member Joined: January 16, 2006 Posts: 7346

Unless you immerse the front end, much water isn't going to find its way in through the speedo cable hole. How does the other side look?

If there is rust in the wheel bearings I'd be concerned about the bearings in the torsion beams. Pump some grease through them and see if rust comes out with the old grease.

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:21 pm Post subject:

Nepenthe88 · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:22 am Post subject:

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:38 am Post subject:


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