2160 build, compression for 86B?

[esde]

The engine tin took more time than I'd care to admit, but I wasn't about to just hack it together. Far too much work to risk running hot because something didn't fit right. The thermostat flaps I had were all loose at the pivot points. 14 little pivots can total a good amount of slop, and once in a while the flap linkage would jam, and never the same way. Bugguy1967 came through with a tight set of flaps, and all of the little clips and washers to make it happen smoothly. Welded the fan and had it balanced, got the heavy bug pack valve covers. They really are nice, tapped for 3/8npt fittings on each end, and small tabs to keep the gaskets in place while being bolted up. Cleaned up the berg linkage and bolted up. One connecting rod has been hacked by some p.o. so a fix or new set is in order (more orders! when does it end?). 010 distributor in place, the fast fab bracket is a tight fit around it, might need some work to make it easier to turn the distributor for tuning. I have a Kennedy 1700 lb pressure plate to use, and a new cush loc disc from years ago that I might use. Any thoughts on if it'll be up to the task of some hard street launches? Or should I buck up for the Copperhead/ black magic disc? Anyway, I'm going to try to start it sometime early April, I'll post up some pics or a video when it happens. SD

[esde]

Work has been busy so I've been driving the car and not working on this motor as much as I had intended. A few finishing items to share before it gets hauled up the basement stairs and trucked to the shop to get started. I ran into considerable difficulty with this exhaust, but as it cost next to nothing and is new I have made the best of it. The full flow outlet had to be re routed with some 45 degree fittings, I use AN10 as I have a coil of it.

There is a few feet of fire sleeve to install around the hose for heat protection.
The j-pipes require some modifications to the thermostat mechanism to remain functional. Here I have moved the bracket closer to the case and down a bit

It is still pretty close to the pipe but I've since added a custom sled tin that shields it from the heat. But, on top you can see that a dog leg extension is needed to connect to the main flap operating rod.

I have the pieces, just haven't finished getting it together.. Picked up some additional bits, like a nice flush Jay Cee mag plate. Man it is a sweet thing!

Also, some Berg doo dads, like a longer crank bolt with the improved lock washers. Also put a vdo temp sender at the rear valve. I also have one at the filter mount, and will be able to see if one reads higher or lower than the other.

ALso, picked up the break in oil, and the first change oil..

I have the following jets in the Dell 45's, with 38 vents: 60 idles, 160 mains, .2emulsions. Any opinions on where my jetting might end up?

And here's a pic of the car. Just got new shoes for it, working on a narrow beam as we speak because the fronts stick out too far..

June Bug is June 8th! Gotta get started and broken in before then!

[bugguy1967]

I don't care for flashy stuff on engines personally, so I can appreciate how tough and serious yours looks.

[esde]

Getting close at last. I realized that this engine was going to wreck the stock transmission, so I contacted mcmscott of metal craft motorsports for advice and a custom built trans. I sent him a single side cover core for the ring gear and mains haft, and here's what just showed up in return today

specs are 3.88 r/p
002 mainshaft
091 snap rings
double snap ring super diff
002 coarse tooth 3rd and 4th
chromoly pinion nut
HD side covers
gears are 3.78, 2.06, 1.26, .89
It's the last piece of the kit I've been waiting for and I'm psyched to start with the swap. Going to take the current engine for a last fathers day spin on sunday and then out it comes..

I've gathered an engine torque bar and mid mount, as well as all new mounts and bearings. After I get the axles installed, I'm going to start the engine bolted to the transmission, and strapped to a pallet so I can break it in. Then into the car it goes.

Here's a little bit I picked up from hotrodvw, an AN-10 fitting tapped on the side for 1/8-27, so I can have a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the pressure line back into the case. I have an electric gauge in the dash, but a mechanical gauge there eliminates any guess about sender accuracy..

[esde]

Finally started it and broke in the cam, but had to tear it all down first as I had an oil leak, http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=599478&highlight=
I bolted it to the new trans, filled the trans with amsoil and the engine with BradPenn break in oil, and it fired right over.

This is after the break in, after I had a chance to better adjust the carbs and timing.

Link


Few things I noted, the straight cut gears were really loud at first, but have mellowed to something I can live with. It seemed really hot, more than I'm used to, but runs fine. I'll have gauges on it as soon as I get it installed, and will know more about the temperature. One carb isn't responding to the idle screws the way I'm used to, but it might be that the gravity feed fuel system I used isn't feeding that carb very well. I swapped jets side to side and saw no change so it's got to be the carb. A slight drip from one of the full flow fittings, probably the return that goes into the case. I was being wimpy about tightening it, having just seen a cracked case pictured here. That's the bitch about tapered threads. You know it will go tighter, but will it go a whole full turn tighter? The elbow has to face the 3-4 side so its got to go a full turn or nothing more at all..
The spring loaded Jaycee push rob tubes didn't leak a drop, I expected them to, as they're running old o rings. Set the 010 to 30 degrees total and the motor starts well. Going to get started with the install tomorrow, I can't wait to get this driving

[esde]

Slow going this week, as I opted to tackle a few tasks while having the transmission out of the car. It's back in, and the rear suspension has been completely gone over, mid mount in, truss bars in, 924 rear sway bar figured out, so getting closer. I had drained the oil when it was still hot, but just cut open the filter from break in, and checked the sump plate magnet. Couldn't be happier! Minimal sparkle in the drained oil, nothing big in the filter, just some grease from having packed the oil pump. I used a motorcraft FL-1 filter and after cutting it open I can say it's a nice filter. The case is heavy gauge, has the recessed seal that doesn't blow out, purolator media, silicone drain back valve, and a bypass. Here's the sump plate, not much to see:

Just some bits of curil, and grease. Barely any fuzz on the magnet. Re sealed the oil return fitting at the case as it was leaking, and adjusted the valves. Into the car tomorrow..

[jfats808]

Nice job man. Either theres an exhaust leak or some of the pushrods are a lil loose, which is normal as parts are wearing in. I put some teflon on my fittings. I know people here say not to but I have zero problems with it. The fitting can go pretty deep, just watch it as you go. Tighten in increments. I love how dells sound.
_________________
2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

[kielbasa]

For fittings. Red loctite. Crank the fitting as far as your comfortable with. The red locktite will seal and hold in place. Never ever had an issue. Great build.
_________________
Gotta give my props to:
Wolfsburg Motorsports
Dubbers Toy Box
Jeff's VW Speed and Fab
4inbore.com
Kielbasa Industries

[esde]

[esde]

If I knew then what I know now..
I would have never bought and tried to use the header I have on now. The 3/4 J pipe was wanting to occupy the same space as the engine truss bar. After some bending, tweaking, cursing, and finally cutting and welding the engine slid home and bolted up tight. Unfortunately now the collector is tight up against the rear apron.

so now is the sad moment when I realize that if I had paid myself less than minimum wage for all of the time fighting this header I could have bought myself a really nice system that fit correctly the first time. I'm mad because I know better..
This header won't budge, or bend, I've tried to bend it down. I'm wondering if the all new engine mounts are screwing me up, but I doubt it as the cylinder head tins are tucked into the rubber gasket. I had been considering making the rear apron removable, maybe this is my sign eh? I really want to get it off the stands, or else I'd have cut this mess free and order up a sidewinder.
Thoughts?

[kielbasa]

A lot of headers get very close to apron. That is the reason I build my own.
here is a side winder style I made couple years ago. 1 7/8. Quite tricky to make it work with such fat pipe. The v band flange is the way to go too. By the way, If you see this header anywhere, let me know, this motor was in my car that was stolen little over month ago.

_________________
Gotta give my props to:
Wolfsburg Motorsports
Dubbers Toy Box
Jeff's VW Speed and Fab
4inbore.com
Kielbasa Industries

[esde]

So, it's in the car, everything checked 5 times, rewired the charge system to bypass the voltage regulator as I now have an alternator, checked everything 2 more times. Drilled the two bolts for the valve covers and safety wired them together as one vibrated loose and scared the crap out of me! Pulled the car out and took it for an hour drive, stopping to check everything a few times along the way. Kept the engine lid off, to keep it cool, and I didn't want to be banging the lid open and closed two dozen times. It was awfully hard to not beat on it the way I wanted to.. anyway it runs really well, especially considering that I did zero tuning to it, aside from setting the idle speed to not stall. My observations so far:
Barely smoked after the break in, and not at all now. Am I nuts to think the rings are seated already?
Oil temp hit 210 after about 15 minutes and stayed there. When I put the W lid back on I'm going to have to address the need for increased air.
Jets are 60 idles, 200 airs, and 160 mains, 38 vents. My wideband shows me at 13.5-13 at idle and through low rpm. It does richen into the 12's at 3500-4500 rpm but then goes back toward 14. It feels like I'm missing something under 2000 rpm, going to have to check the timing again, or maybe I need a bit more accelerator pump. If I lean it out a bit, what should the next jet sizes be? 58? Pops a bit through the exhaust when I downshift, and it's not an exhaust leak, not sure what that might be. Mid rpm to as high as I took it, it pulled like a train, and revs so smoothly, there is not a bit of vibration in the car. Maybe it's the new mounts, mid mount, spring plate bushings, shock mount pads, notched spring plates, pretty much anywhere one thing could bang against another I did what I could to quiet it and the result is amazing. So far really happy, even for the unexpected things: Small leak at the oil pump, but it's very slight so I will suffer with it for a while. Fuel pressure was 2.5 psi, until I lost all pressure and ran dry. Fortunately it happened pulling back into my shop driveway, and that never happens to me. I'm the guy that runs dry on a Sunday, on a toll road with no charge on my cell phone. Anyway, it's a new pump from Aircooled, wired with a fused pump relay, so troubleshooting it should be easy..
Super stoked to have it driving! Looking forward to the next few weeks tuning it. Might have to drill some holes through the sides to get a screw driver on the idle screws, they are damned tight! I can barely, barely get the ones for 1 and 3, and once I dropped the special driver I made for it and it took a while to fish back out. Thanks for all of the help with this build, it's been a hell of a learning experience. Surely the advice I have been given on the forum and in messages has steered me in the right direction, and kept me from making some mistakes. Thanks again!

[[email protected]]

when you ask jetting questions you should post what your elevation is and what carbs you have, if you expect accurate replies.
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[esde]

[[email protected]]

First change 57 idles and 180 airs.
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/vwpartsaircoolednet
and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

[bugguy1967]

What pump are you running? Just had a square Facet fail after 20 or so hours.

[jfats808]

To me it sounds like one of or more than one Af mixture screw needs turning out. I would rule that out first before u change jets. Regardless, I know people say you cant read plugs, but I still do and make changes according to that. If u feel like it, post a pic of 2 and 4 . Stock dell jets for 45s are 62/162/200 for reference.
_________________
2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

[GodJockey]

How does it feel compared to the old 1835?

[esde]

[esde]

Further update: More work, tuning, and troubleshooting. Got the idle smoothed out but it smelled a bit rich (dark plugs too) with the 65 idles so I put the 60s in. It's a bit lean now and doesn't idle as smoothly. Idle screws are 6 turns out, at idle the wideband seems to hunt around, I guess its reading the pulses from each cylinder separately? With the 60's I have 15.5-17 as 800 rpm, it smooths to an even 15 and then richens out to 13 as the mains kick in. I'm waiting on the 62 idles, we'll see. After todays drive:
My oil pressure and temp are not satisfactory, though it might just be the hot break in. With the lid on my temp quickly hit 220 and was still climbing, so I pulled it back off and jammed it behind the seat. The temperature still stayed up, and I could see the needle move upwards when I got on it. The oil is Brad Penn 10-30 and I have a healthy flow of really hot air coming from the cooler duct. I'm going to hold off on driving till I get the new cylinder head temp gauge (Falcon 2 channel) https://www.gulfcoastavionics.com/products/179-cr-002.aspx
as then I will maybe see if the oil temp is related to head temp. I also have a lot of crankcase pressure, is that the rings still not seated? There's a small spray of oil from the crank pulley. My experience is that the crankcase pulses should lessen as the rings seat, and I'm hopeful that this will 'fix' the pulley leak.
Lastly, the oil pressure is great, except hot at idle. For a motor with good clearances on all bearings, and attention to the oil system seeing under 10 pounds at idle doesn't make me thrilled. Even though I've read over and over it's fine, it bugs me. If I really set the idle low the light will come on (400 rpm). This is the first engine I've done the hoover case mods to, and I'm wondering if the added oil demand has any effect on idle pressure?

Anyway, enough of the bad news. From 3-5500 its a beast. Below that it's no slouch, I'm just having to learn how to drive it down low. I have extremely sticky Yokohamas on the back, and they are determined to stick no matter how I launch it..