CB Performance black box

[Porsche60]

cranking timing would be lower than 10 degrees.
25 is too much.

btw, how can you tune without the cable?

[rubenski]

Hmmmm, or was it 12?? Youre making me confused.....

I didnt tune the engine, i leave that to my builder.
He has the cable at his shop.

It went on a dyno to tune fuel and spark. But now i cant get it going when its cold.
When the engine ran and was hot, it started verry good.

He sent me a map from whilst on the dyno. But he made a few changes.
So kow i have the map but i cant open it without the BB being connected...

Otherwise i could show you guys.

[stan_tichomirov]

You should be able to open a map without the Black Box being connected. I've tweaked maps away from the car a number of times, then flashed them onto the BB later.

Stan
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Aircooled.net
Jansen Enterprise
My 1835cc build
My budget 2276 build

[clonebug]

Changing the ignition advance at your 400 and 800 bins will not make it start any better.
You more than likely have other problems than a few degrees more or less advance at idle.

I have started my engine anywhere from 6 Degrees BTDC to 18 Degrees BTDC and there is no noticeable difference.
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[Porsche60]

i think clonebug is right.

rubenski, if you have the problem related to the temp, especially when it's cold, it's not black box.

it might be carb or intake heat problem.

[rubenski]

I got the engine running today, started after a few cranks and after i re-plugged the plug wire that came loose.

I just got a new set and the round tabs that go in the cooling tins are still a bit non-flexible..

Alltough i got it running, starting was not easyand will need some fine tuning. Eirher in fuel and or spark table....

I also emailed cb perf, Mark got right back at me, said the table looked verry good. No problems there so glad we're in the right direction.

He only said we should check the timing while cranking with a timing light. But i dont have one so a trip to my builder's shop it is. If only it stopped raining....

[rubenski]

THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED!

Talked to my builder about what could be the problem, came to the conclusion that it had to be something with the ignition. 
Only thing left was the coil. We changed plugs and new sparkplug wires. Carburation was great to so no pproblems there.

But then:
I changed the pertronix flamethrower 3.0 ohm epoxy coil with my old blue bosh coil and it started right up. 

Emailded Mark about it. Wainting on his reply.

So 2 options left:

- I have a bad pertronix coil (wich we are going to send back to the manufacturer)

- The blackbox has problems with the pertronix coil.... 

To be continue!

[Porsche60]

i had a same pertronix 3ohm coil before, and had some misfire problem.
after i replaced the coil with 1.5ohm mallory, it got better.

i'm not sure if the pertronix coil was bad, though.

[rubenski]

What could be the reason that the BB has issues with high Ohm coils?

[Porsche60]

this is just my guess.

higher ohm coils need more time to charge the spark energy.
i guess that BB decides the charge duration depending on the ohm.
longer charge duration means more heat created in the coil, thus overheat.

[rubenski]

Sounds reasonable,

Could also explain why it started fine when warmed up.... must be some left over energy in the coil....

[tvrgeek]

I know I am dragging up an old thread, but many of the comments here peaked my interest. I am running a CB Black Box on my MGB. I have been attempting to get a complete answer from CB on their charge time management and if they can safely drive a lower impedance coil. They implied to me to "use the one you have" I think I am a bit shy of the optimal 2.5mS or so charge time needed for a Bosh Blue, so I wanted to hear others experiences before I put in my buffer-inverter, TFI driver and coil. If they used some new fancy HEXFET, I can see how they could switch that much current, but with no heat sink, and thin wires, I have my doubts it can deal with a 1.5 Ohm coil.


BTW, permeability varies with temperature, so the optimal charge time is not constant. Joy!

[tvrgeek]

Another BTW, I tested a Lucas , Bosch, generic, and Pertronix 3 Ohm coils at idle. I found virtually no difference. If I were to give a tiniest edge to any, it would actually be the Pertronix. I do have a bit more long term confidence in the Blue.

[Porsche60]

i'm running 1.5 ohm Mallory coil for 1-1/2 year and i haven't noticed any problem so far.
what would be possibleproblems?

[bugeyesprite]

I have an ignition coil on mine. No idea what ohms or brand it is. Works great.

What ohms does CB recommend? Ballast/no ballast?

Try a little test; First, to eliminate any bias you might have, paint all your coils black, shuffle them then try them one by one and note any difference. If you find any... I'll eat my hat.

[EVfun]

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Guys.
I have a turbo bug and I'm trying to improve my launch. I'm using a locked dizzy at 24* and use a DVDA vac can to retard timing.
I want to be able to rev the throttle to a rpm of my choosing, and then only have the clutch pre load and hand brake drop to think about , will the Black box be the best and easiest way to achieve this.
p.s I want to keep the dizzy.

[kangaboy]

[Alstrup]

[GARRICK.CLARK]

I'm using a HS8 su carb. My set up is very mechanical in how it all works. No electric gizmos.
I have found an Omex Clubman 2 step rev limiter that wires straight to the coil, think I'll give it a go. The 1 step is button activated so I can fit that to the handbrake, 2nd step is the high up rev limiter .