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1951 Karmann Restoration - L71/L72 Chassis # 1-300420
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p horvath
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

D. Haviland wrote:
Incredible Will! Looking fantastic!


dave, send me a pm...i have a question.
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oldsplitvw
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gas tank buffed out well, great sample of the original L72 to match.

Will

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D. Haviland
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking that the gas tank was still brown. Just wasn't sure.
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p horvath
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yo dave give me a call!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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aa390392
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow what an eye to detail and the ability perform some excellent metal work!
whats the next step? anything on the mechanics....?
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oldsplitvw
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got super lucky, and picked up an NOS split master cylinder setup from this site. It had the strainer nut, screw terminal brake switch, reservoir, etc. When cleaning up the reservoir, we noticed it was actually copper plated steel. Very cool. I've never seen one like this, but it is 100% original

Will

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oldsplitvw
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teaser pics. Chassis and all mechanical bits are pretty much done. Engine, transmission, front beam are all rebuilt. All new/NOS brake parts.

Chassis is original to the car. Front beam is unstamped NOS.

Will

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Grant Reiling Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldsplitvw wrote:
I got super lucky, and picked up an NOS split master cylinder setup from this site. It had the strainer nut, screw terminal brake switch, reservoir, etc. When cleaning up the reservoir, we noticed it was actually copper plated steel. Very cool. I've never seen one like this, but it is 100% original

Will

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You did get lucky on that one Will; Nice score! Exclamation Cool
Great to see more progress pics too Very nice!
Keep up the good work and thanks for posting updates (for us to salivate in envy over). Idea Wink
Grant
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More fun with original paint: The outside of the glove box door buffed out very well. It should be very easy to get an accurate match from this sample, so if you are restoring a car in this color PM me and I'll get you the formula.

Will

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virtanen
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice chassis, and we got more knowledge for the original setup. Also brake lines were copper plated originally. I found that my original lines of my June '52.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will, it appears as though that blue crap came off quite easily. and the battery section on the pan came out great. Sick Sick Sick.
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belairman
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will, beautifull work so far. I saw the seats for your car, before you picked them up, they looked amazing.
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vintage fiberglass
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:39 am    Post subject: 51 convertible Reply with quote

Will,
First of all long time no chat my friend! Ok now I am getting jealous. This car is too amazingly nice. I do know you have been waiting for this for a while. So I am excited for you and with you! I sure hope my car comes out as nice as this. I always enjoy your input on the forums and the way you do your cars so correctly. Keep up the good work! Tim
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AlteWagen
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW! Its been a while, wish I could have seen it in person when I was still living up there. I wish I would be able to get my 56 1/16th of the level yours is at.

You have the best of both worlds with the 56 and the 51.

CONGRATS!!!
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oldsplitvw
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love all the little details of a restoration. The convertible is from the first week of November, 1951. The speedometer is dated 10/51, so original? could be. I spent an hour yesterday bringing the speedometer up to the standard of the rest of the restoration. I'm posting this as a how-to guide in case any other split owners want to dive head first into freshening up their speedometer.

After gently prying up the corners of the chrome ring and pulling the glass off, unscrew the 2 screws at the back of the housing. These are the only 2 screws that hold the whole thing together. At this point, get a few thick paper towels and wedge them between the needle and the speedo face. Otherwise it will be very easy for the needle to scratch the face.

mmmmmm, date code
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Here's the fun part. The numbers are on one bar, and there is a row of gears above them. You will need to slide out the bar holding the gears. DO NOT TAKE THEM ALL THE WAY OFF, just slide it back far enough so you can separate the gears from the numbers.

The bar has been punched so it would come loose while driving. Here is where it gets tricky. You need to file down the bar just enough so you can pop it out, without filing it so far that it will slip out easily.

The bar in question. Swiss army knife to the rescue.
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Pops out with a bit of pressure. Success!
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Crank the numbers to zero by hand, then slide the bar back into place. You can test it before you put it back together by taking off the back plate and turning the worm gear by hand. I cranked the numbers forward from 00001 to 00025, then backwards to 99999, then forward to 00001. Everything worked as it should.

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Last up is the needle. Remember those paper towels between the face and the needle? Now is not the time to see that you scratched up the face of your speedo. For the needle a detail brush and some "heirloom white" paint to the trick nicely.

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Some fresh black paint on the housing and the speedometer looks good as new.

Will
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oldsplitvw
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have spent a lot of time thinking about which accessories to put in the car. I'm not a fan of the "yard sale" look with 30+ items clogging up the dash, but I wanted more than just the round grills in the glove box doors.

Motometer made an oil temp gauge for splits, but they also made gauges for just about every other car make too. The split window unit is 52mm in diameter, temperature readings range from 0-120, and there is the word "Oel" just above the center of the needle.

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The sender is a copper tube, with a dipstick that replaces the stock unit. As far as I can tell they made two varieties: A white face version, and a rarer brown face version. Here's mine:
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The chrome bezel, face, and needle are all original and unrestored. The unit has been mechanically restored and calibrated so the temperature reading will be accurate.

The clock is 100% original and perfect. The seller claimed it was NOS and I can find no reason to dispute that claim. It keeps perfect time, and the blobs of radium paint on the face and hands glow nicely in the dark. I won't lie, the clock wasn't cheap. It was damn expensive. But you'll never find another one in this shape, and refaced ones look, well, refaced. You might fool someone with a blurry picture, but in person they are not in the same ballpark.

Don't ask me why but I really like old mechanical clocks. I have the Kienzle mirror clock in my 11G, and the Perohaus will eventually go in my oval vert.

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Will
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oldsplitvw
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have spent a huge amount of time researching the correct semaphores for a split convertible. Many enthusiasts believe some of the earlier cars did come with a special unit, with a wrap-around metal arm instead of a straight arm and lens.

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As far as I can tell, the semaphores are SWF units, and they have the same part number as a traditional ribbed semaphore. It would be reasonable to assume that VW/SWF simply used an alternative arm/lens setup that was a little more sturdy, since the semaphore was more prone to being damaged at a lower location. Rather than engineer something new, perhaps they just used a different arm and lens from an existing product.

SWF Catalog:
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Hmmm, unit Nr. 14725 looks very similar to the above semaphores. They are for an Opel Kaptain. No problem, I'll just go find an NOS set in the box.

Done.
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Couple interesting things to note. The setup is the same as the above 2 examples. The 2 mounting screws thread into a large rectangular boss, and the outside of the arms have 6V and SWF stamped.

Restored SWF Ribbed semaphore, NOS Opel, and an unrestored SWF ribbed with arm removed:
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Okay, here's the part that blew my mind. The screw holes are not in the same locations. On the Opel semaphore the screws are smaller in diameter, and slightly higher up. I was worried my theory was incorrect. BUT...compare the Opel arm to a VW semaphore unit. Did you ever notice that extra smaller hole before? It is in the PERFECT spot to mount the Opel arm.
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Kind of a crazy coincidence.

So that's what I was able to find. This goes for SWF semaphores, don't ask me anything about SHO. If my understanding is correct SHO made semaphores for SAAB with a similar wrap around arm/lens unit. The easiest way to tell the difference is at the upper part of the lens, where the 2 screws hold it together. SWF is parallel, where SHO tapers. I have seen plenty of people mount Saab arms to VW semaphores and call it original, but whether or not that is the case is not up to me.

Will
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oldsplitvw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Final Paint
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Engine
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Will
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldsplitvw wrote:
Engine
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Nice!

You probably know this but you are supposed to tighten those screws when the fuel pump is in the factory tool (or a substitute) so the diaphragm is set correctly.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldsplitvw wrote:
I have spent a lot of time thinking about which accessories to put in the car. I'm not a fan of the "yard sale" look with 30+ items clogging up the dash, but I wanted more than just the round grills in the glove box doors.

Motometer made an oil temp gauge for splits, but they also made gauges for just about every other car make too. The split window unit is 52mm in diameter, temperature readings range from 0-120, and there is the word "Oel" just above the center of the needle.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The sender is a copper tube, with a dipstick that replaces the stock unit. As far as I can tell they made two varieties: A white face version, and a rarer brown face version. Here's mine:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The chrome bezel, face, and needle are all original and unrestored. The unit has been mechanically restored and calibrated so the temperature reading will be accurate.

The clock is 100% original and perfect. The seller claimed it was NOS and I can find no reason to dispute that claim. It keeps perfect time, and the blobs of radium paint on the face and hands glow nicely in the dark. I won't lie, the clock wasn't cheap. It was damn expensive. But you'll never find another one in this shape, and refaced ones look, well, refaced. You might fool someone with a blurry picture, but in person they are not in the same ballpark.

Don't ask me why but I really like old mechanical clocks. I have the Kienzle mirror clock in my 11G, and the Perohaus will eventually go in my oval vert.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Will


Could you please post some more pictures of the glove box clock?.... Project looking good!!
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