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jhoefer
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 987
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 Posted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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| msimoni wrote: |
| jhoefer wrote: |
| msimoni wrote: |
| Adjusted all valves at 0,35... |
0.35mm is a lot of valve lash. Aluminum pushrods are normally 0.15mm (0.006 inches). Is there a reason? |
Mine are aluminum pushrods, but with double springs... should I lower the lash to 0.25mm or less? |
The engine's new so setting them loose to 0.20mm is fine, but once things settle down, you should put them back to spec at 0.15mm. Too much lash can potentially damage valve train parts.
Valve springs make no difference to the lash setting.
Of course, this doesn't really change your sync problems. |
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msimoni
Samba Member
Joined: July 21, 2013
Posts: 18
Location: Brasil
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 11:35 am Post subject: |
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Ok... got my valves back to 0.20mm.
Now I got a question about my ignition timing:
I've got the Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributor with the Ignitor II digital ignition and Flamethrower Epoxi Coil.
I'm using a seting (mechanical advance) that gets me 16 degrees of advance at just 1.500RPMs and full 24 (and not 32 as I mentioned before) degrees at just 2.000RPM all the way to the redline.
I have 75 different advance settings on this system, and my question is:
If I delay a bit the advance, let's say 3 degrees at 1.500RPMs, 10 degrees at 2.000RPMs, 16 degrees at 2.500RPMs, 22 degrees at 3.000RPM's and 24 degrees from 3.500RPMs to redline, would I smooth a little bit my midrange RPM's at cruise throttle?
Sorry I have come completely out of the carbs issue - I am keeping the richer than they are supposed to be (measured on an air/fuel sensor with a mass of 890) until I get the engine a few more miles.
_________________
By Colella sand rail A.K.A.: "Electric Chair" - VW 2.150cc, dual EMPI HPMX44's, Engle W110, 44mm intake/35mm exaust dual spring valves, fully modded and ported heads, Pertonix Flame Thrower Distributor and Digital Ignition, Flamethrower Epoxi filled Coil, Flamethrower 8.8mm spar plug cables, Dual UMP air boxes 3"intake, Raised dual K&N 3"air filters, Full Rancho RS9000XL shocks, etc. |
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mightymouse
Samba Member
Joined: May 26, 2004
Posts: 4220
Location: las vegas
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 4:36 pm Post subject: |
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| msimoni wrote: |
Ok... got my valves back to 0.20mm.
Now I got a question about my ignition timing:
I've got the Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributor with the Ignitor II digital ignition and Flamethrower Epoxi Coil.
I'm using a seting (mechanical advance) that gets me 16 degrees of advance at just 1.500RPMs and full 24 (and not 32 as I mentioned before) degrees at just 2.000RPM all the way to the redline.
I have 75 different advance settings on this system, and my question is:
If I delay a bit the advance, let's say 3 degrees at 1.500RPMs, 10 degrees at 2.000RPMs, 16 degrees at 2.500RPMs, 22 degrees at 3.000RPM's and 24 degrees from 3.500RPMs to redline, would I smooth a little bit my midrange RPM's at cruise throttle?
Sorry I have come completely out of the carbs issue - I am keeping the richer than they are supposed to be (measured on an air/fuel sensor with a mass of 890) until I get the engine a few more miles. |
24 total is a bit low. We have a "not efficient" combustion chamber, so you need to start the burn earlier to make it more complete and make the most power.
Thats why 28 total was the factory WOT setting. They figured it out after much tuning.
Today many who have dynos have found 28 and 30 as the spots these engines make the best power and tq.
Above that it drops off fast and below that it just doesnt quite hit the number.
_________________
Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the wrong mental attitude.
Thomas Jefferson
Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters. |
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msimoni
Samba Member
Joined: July 21, 2013
Posts: 18
Location: Brasil
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| Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 4:54 pm Post subject: |
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| mightymouse wrote: |
| msimoni wrote: |
Ok... got my valves back to 0.20mm.
Now I got a question about my ignition timing:
I've got the Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributor with the Ignitor II digital ignition and Flamethrower Epoxi Coil.
I'm using a seting (mechanical advance) that gets me 16 degrees of advance at just 1.500RPMs and full 24 (and not 32 as I mentioned before) degrees at just 2.000RPM all the way to the redline.
I have 75 different advance settings on this system, and my question is:
If I delay a bit the advance, let's say 3 degrees at 1.500RPMs, 10 degrees at 2.000RPMs, 16 degrees at 2.500RPMs, 22 degrees at 3.000RPM's and 24 degrees from 3.500RPMs to redline, would I smooth a little bit my midrange RPM's at cruise throttle?
Sorry I have come completely out of the carbs issue - I am keeping the richer than they are supposed to be (measured on an air/fuel sensor with a mass of 890) until I get the engine a few more miles. |
24 total is a bit low. We have a "not efficient" combustion chamber, so you need to start the burn earlier to make it more complete and make the most power.
Thats why 28 total was the factory WOT setting. They figured it out after much tuning.
Today many who have dynos have found 28 and 30 as the spots these engines make the best power and tq.
Above that it drops off fast and below that it just doesnt quite hit the number. |
Got it wrong... my ignition is able to give me up to 34 degrees of advance... that's 10+ whatever setings you have... I am using 32 degrees. Got a slower advance curve set up on the distributor today, and it made a whole lot of difference... I will try it out this weekend and let you guys know how it went...
_________________
By Colella sand rail A.K.A.: "Electric Chair" - VW 2.150cc, dual EMPI HPMX44's, Engle W110, 44mm intake/35mm exaust dual spring valves, fully modded and ported heads, Pertonix Flame Thrower Distributor and Digital Ignition, Flamethrower Epoxi filled Coil, Flamethrower 8.8mm spar plug cables, Dual UMP air boxes 3"intake, Raised dual K&N 3"air filters, Full Rancho RS9000XL shocks, etc. |
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udidwht
Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2005
Posts: 3779
Location: Seattle, WA./ HB, Ca./ Shizuoka, Japan
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| Posted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 12:31 am Post subject: |
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| mark tucker wrote: |
make sure you have gaskets between all parts, carb top, throttell bracket,aircleaner base, and yes the stacks too. and then see what you get. and make sure the intakes are tight, and the crabs are tight on the intakes too. be sure there isant any old gasket left on the head, intake, or any other place that can leave a leek.also if it has sneezzed it may of blown a chunk of gadget out somewhere. or if the intakes have been ported a bit to far or dont it flat. do your home work&figure it out.
when I have to equalize the carbs I like to bring the high ones down, not the low ones up, adjust with the bypass screws. |
On IDF's with the air bypass screws closed initially one won't be able to bring a high flowing vent down. Opening a screw only allows more air...hence higher flow. You have to bring the low flow up to the higher flowing vent.
The flow using a snail should be somewhere between 4-6 when all said and done.
Don't worry if there is up to (1) point difference between one barrel vs the other. More than one point suggests you may have an air leak, twisted throttle shaft, or other mechanical issue.
_________________
1972 Westy Hardtop/Type-4 2056cc
96mm Biral AA P/C's~7.8:1CR
Headflow Masters New AMC 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
73 Web Cam w/Web solids
Dual 40mm IDF Webers - LM-2 - 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module (7.5 initial 28 total @ 3400rpm)
Bosch W8CC plugs
Pertronix Flamethrower 40K coil
S&S 4-1 w/Walker QP 17862
3 rib 002 Trans
185R14 Hankook tires |
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msimoni
Samba Member
Joined: July 21, 2013
Posts: 18
Location: Brasil
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| Posted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:57 am Post subject: |
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| udidwht wrote: |
| mark tucker wrote: |
make sure you have gaskets between all parts, carb top, throttell bracket,aircleaner base, and yes the stacks too. and then see what you get. and make sure the intakes are tight, and the crabs are tight on the intakes too. be sure there isant any old gasket left on the head, intake, or any other place that can leave a leek.also if it has sneezzed it may of blown a chunk of gadget out somewhere. or if the intakes have been ported a bit to far or dont it flat. do your home work&figure it out.
when I have to equalize the carbs I like to bring the high ones down, not the low ones up, adjust with the bypass screws. |
On IDF's with the air bypass screws closed initially one won't be able to bring a high flowing vent down. Opening a screw only allows more air...hence higher flow. You have to bring the low flow up to the higher flowing vent.
The flow using a snail should be somewhere between 4-6 when all said and done.
Don't worry if there is up to (1) point difference between one barrel vs the other. More than one point suggests you may have an air leak, twisted throttle shaft, or other mechanical issue. |
Thanks alot guys for taking the time and patience to help your Brazilian friend here. It all looks 90% better now.
Just ordered a whole bunch of diffenrent sizes of jets, idle, main, air to get it tunned properly. According to my air/mass I am a little too rich in the mid range RPM's, that's one of the reasons partial throtle is awkwared. But since the engine is brand new, I rather keep it like that to keep things cool in the cilinder heads.
Thanks once again!
_________________
By Colella sand rail A.K.A.: "Electric Chair" - VW 2.150cc, dual EMPI HPMX44's, Engle W110, 44mm intake/35mm exaust dual spring valves, fully modded and ported heads, Pertonix Flame Thrower Distributor and Digital Ignition, Flamethrower Epoxi filled Coil, Flamethrower 8.8mm spar plug cables, Dual UMP air boxes 3"intake, Raised dual K&N 3"air filters, Full Rancho RS9000XL shocks, etc. |
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