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Idle adjust on 34 PICT-3 FAQ
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spicolibus
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this may be a little off point from the current "fine tuning" thread at the moment but I was curious about something.
I finally couldn't take it anymore and took my bus to the local shop. I have based everything I have done so far off books (no help or even a look over by a local VW person) and the shop told me my pulley belt was too loose, the valves were loose, I had a vacuum leak at the carb/manifold due to stripped carb bolt (thanks Keith), etc. Anyway, I have a SVDA dizzy and noticed that the shop put the vacuum line to the back of the carb instead of the side of the carb (which everything I have read says to do it that way).
It runs better than ever, even with the line going to the back of the carb. I put it on the side and it started running like crap, so I put it back to how the shop put it. Has been running great, no stalling, no hesitations, smooth, etc.
I guess I was wondering if anyone would know why a professional would run the vacuum line this way and if this is okay? It is fine with me since the bus runs and I can actually drive it somewhere now (after three years of owning it).

thanks for any suggestions!
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spicolibus wrote:
this may be a little off point from the current "fine tuning" thread at the moment but I was curious about something.
I finally couldn't take it anymore and took my bus to the local shop. I have based everything I have done so far off books (no help or even a look over by a local VW person) and the shop told me my pulley belt was too loose, the valves were loose, I had a vacuum leak at the carb/manifold due to stripped carb bolt (thanks Keith), etc. Anyway, I have a SVDA dizzy and noticed that the shop put the vacuum line to the back of the carb instead of the side of the carb (which everything I have read says to do it that way).
It runs better than ever, even with the line going to the back of the carb. I put it on the side and it started running like crap, so I put it back to how the shop put it. Has been running great, no stalling, no hesitations, smooth, etc.
I guess I was wondering if anyone would know why a professional would run the vacuum line this way and if this is okay? It is fine with me since the bus runs and I can actually drive it somewhere now (after three years of owning it).

thanks for any suggestions!


dumb luck? What's your timing at?
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spicolibus
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure, I haven't checked it since I got back from the shop.
I'll check it though and report back
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no ports to operate an SVDA on the back of a 34PICT, you likely have full advance all the time making it just another 009.


As for Acosta's question, once you find the spot on the little screw you can adjust the idle speed with the big screw and the mixture shouldn't change much at all.
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spicolibus
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So busdaddy, should I just plug off the rear port on the carb and also on the vacuum can on the SVDA dizzy (take off the vacuum line) or just leave it how it is since it is working Question White Bay Bus
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

spicolibus wrote:
So busdaddy, should I just plug off the rear port on the carb and also on the vacuum can on the SVDA dizzy (take off the vacuum line) or just leave it how it is since it is working Question White Bay Bus

No, but if you had to take it to a shop for a tune up I'm not sure you're up to retiming it properly, do you have a timing light?
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I have a timing light. I originally found TDC and put all the markings on the pulley and the shop told me that all the marks were correct. So, at least I did that right. One of my problems was that the valves were too loose (didn't realize how much drag there should be) and there was a vacuum leak due to a stripped bolt on my keifernet carb.
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, then hook up the light and start the bus, watch the mark as it idles and pull the hose off the carb, does it move?
If it does remember where it was before you pulled the hose off because you'll have to retime it to that spot once you move the hose to the LH side nipple and cap the back one. (lets assume the shop got it timed fairly close in it's current configuration already).
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will do. thanks for the help Busdaddy!
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 1:08 pm    Post subject: Re: bottoming out the volume adjust screw Reply with quote

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement "fast idle cam" for my 34 PICT-3 carb? mine fell off and is gone. please help!!!! Smile
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PM me; I should have an extra. Do you just need the cam?
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Atte
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to this thread, my problem was idle cut off valve. Strugled a long time with idle adjustments and checked out this thread and voila!

Engine died when pushed the clutch and had to pump if you wanted it to run.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My friend's 67 has a 34 Bocar on it and we tuned for hours, with little success, it ran but poorly. A couple days later he was driving it and his fuel pump died. After new pump installed, re-tuned carb, and now its running more smooth than ever. Although the filter had some fuel in it during our previous tuning, it wasn't enough to keep consistent fuel pressure in the carb, which hampered our adjustments.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This thread is awesome, I've recently taken the empi 2 barrel off of the motor I have so that I can run the 34 pic 3. I put it on last night, but didn't bother to hook up the choke or the other solenoid on the carb (honestly I didn't think it would effect how the carb ran). Every time I would give it some gas the carb would just bog out like it wasn't getting fuel. But it was getting fuel, I checked three times lol. Got frustrated and decided to call it a night since it was getting dark too, so tonight I'm going to hook up the choke and solenoid like its supposed to be and see if that helps! Otherwise a nice rebuild is in the near future Very Happy

Joe
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWdZSr7x81w#t=3m1s
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

don.ville wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWdZSr7x81w#t=3m1s


don.ville, what are you doing here? The Baywindow Rally must have gave you the warm fuzzies. Cool
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

babysnakes wrote:
don.ville wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWdZSr7x81w#t=3m1s


don.ville, what are you doing here? The Baywindow Rally must have gave you the warm fuzzies. Cool


Very Happy

Same carb.
Search don't care about Bay or straight.
Smile
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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SHAWEET!! 1ST PAGE DID IT. Cleaned out idle fuel jet and turned it counter clockwise.... humming like a fi 302 ( obviously not rpms) bump up!!!!! Search wins for Type 1!!!!!!!
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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Again, SEARCH B4 posting!!!¡!!¡!!¡!!¡!!¡!!¡!!¡!!!
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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 4:58 pm    Post subject: tune it Reply with quote

Those two work together So -first back off the fast idle setting so it just is loose on the low step of the choke. Next increase or decrease the big mix/air flow idles speed and start to work on the small jet till it is increasing the idle speed. Slow that down with the big jet. and repeat.

When the fast idle is off and the mixture is right the big idle speed will adjust out. You might even see the timing work properly as the advance will run up as soon as the throttle is held open by anything.
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