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Idle adjust on 34 PICT-3 FAQ
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mranker
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading 17 pages I did not see my 34 pict 3 issue addressed so here goes: I had my old Solex rebuilt and rebushed by Tim at Volksbitz (I have not contacted him yet. I want to see if this is an easy fix first) and have been very pleased for about a year. The other day I decide to go for a drive and I cant even get down the drive way. Carb idles nicely but accelerating even a little makes the engine want to die. So I suspect some crap in the carb is blocking something. I take the carb apart and look into the bowl and find two things loose on the bottom of the bowl. One is a little metal ball that looks like a bb and the other is what looks like some threaded plug. I take a look at my spare Brosol and see where these items go and I can see where the plug is supposed to go but not the metal ball.

Plug:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bowl:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I removed the ball and replaced the plug in the hole on the side of the bowl. I put a little gas in the bowl and checked the function of the accelerator pump and compared it with the brosol. The brosol shoots gas out of the accelerator pump injector like a fire hose. The solex dribbles gas out of the injector. I'm pretty sure this is causing my problem but I don't know how to fix it. I took the accelerator pump apart and everything (diaphram, spring) looks good. Is that little bb supposed to go somewhere?
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aryue
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The check ball and plug are for the accelerator pump circuit to keep the fuel from flowing backward.

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- Andrew in Austin, TX -
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mranker
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aryue wrote:
The check ball and plug are for the accelerator pump circuit to keep the fuel from flowing backward.

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- Andrew in Austin, TX -


Awesome! So how do they go back in? Do I just drop the ball in he indicated hole and put the plug on top? Also what may have caused them to pop out?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mranker wrote:
Awesome! So how do they go back in? Do I just drop the ball in he indicated hole and put the plug on top? Also what may have caused them to pop out?

Yes, drop in the ball and press in the plug, maybe it wasn't pressed in enough so it popped out? Make sure you leave the threaded hollow end up incase you ever need to remove it again.
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aryue
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ball goes in the hole & the plug is a pressed fit with the cup side up.

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lestrange04
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aryue.. THANK YOU for that diagram!!!!!
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ditto^^^
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mranker
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
mranker wrote:
Awesome! So how do they go back in? Do I just drop the ball in he indicated hole and put the plug on top? Also what may have caused them to pop out?

Yes, drop in the ball and press in the plug, maybe it wasn't pressed in enough so it popped out? Make sure you leave the threaded hollow end up incase you ever need to remove it again.


Well, that TOTALLY worked! Thanks aryue and busdaddy!
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

too late now but if you ever have it happen again, set the bb into the hole. Use a wooden dowel or something not too hard and VERY LIGHTLY tap it - when I say lightly think of it as an egg you don't want to break but you do want to tap. That will seat the bb on the valve seat made for it and insure that it does not leak. If the plug fits loose which it might and why it popped out, you can peen it a little in two opposing spots to hold it or try to find something that will gently expand the plug less than a hair width so it will be tighter. Sometimes if you just tap gently around the top of the hole for it with a socket, it will collapse inwards enough to grab it next time. We are talking light taps like a jeweler might make on a watch, not whacking it like a construction worker driving a nail. Carb metal is soft and it breaks and fractures easily so everything has to be done dainty like.
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emoze
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 4:45 pm    Post subject: electric idle jet question - Reply with quote

can i just leave the electric cutoff jet disconnected if i am using the 34 on a 1600 dual port in a Manx with an 009?

or is there a better carb choice or distributor choice? or BOTH?
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: electric idle jet question - Reply with quote

emoze wrote:
can i just leave the electric cutoff jet disconnected if i am using the 34 on a 1600 dual port in a Manx with an 009?


Not if you want it to idle, it's only 6" of wire to the coil #15 to hook it up.
It's a good carb but you may want to find a vacuum advance distributor if you want to get the best performance out of it.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 6:34 pm    Post subject: Re: electric idle jet question - Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
emoze wrote:
can i just leave the electric cutoff jet disconnected if i am using the 34 on a 1600 dual port in a Manx with an 009?


Not if you want it to idle, it's only 6" of wire to the coil #15 to hook it up.
It's a good carb but you may want to find a vacuum advance distributor if you want to get the best performance out of it.


Agreed.

Many people say the 009/34.3 is a bad combo. I have driven VWs that work great, and work terribly, with that combo. The key FOR ME has been eliminating any vacuum leaks, and following the carb tuning procedure in the service manual. Others may have different experiences based on climate/fuel quality/009 quality.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:25 pm    Post subject: Re: electric idle jet question - Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
emoze wrote:
can i just leave the electric cutoff jet disconnected if i am using the 34 on a 1600 dual port in a Manx with an 009?


Not if you want it to idle, it's only 6" of wire to the coil #15 to hook it up.
It's a good carb but you may want to find a vacuum advance distributor if you want to get the best performance out of it.


Agreed.

Many people say the 009/34.3 is a bad combo. I have driven VWs that work great, and work terribly, with that combo. The key FOR ME has been eliminating any vacuum leaks, and following the carb tuning procedure in the service manual. Others may have different experiences based on climate/fuel quality/009 quality.

Excellent point, it's not impossible to make an 009 behave quite well with a 34PICT3 but there's little room for errors, it's got to be dialed in quite well.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:02 pm    Post subject: Re: electric idle jet question - Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
it's not impossible to make an 009 behave quite well with a 34PICT3 but there's little room for errors, it's got to be dialed in quite well.
Glad you say it's not impossible. Wink I'd hate to be the one sucessfully and easily doing impossibilities.
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This mod seems to be a good one to address the 34 pict 3 + 009 problems. Any opinions?

http://www.aircooledtech.com/34pict3_modification/
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivwshane wrote:
This mod seems to be a good one to address the 34 pict 3 + 009 problems. Any opinions?

http://www.aircooledtech.com/34pict3_modification/


It reduces the amount of air through the carb at idle. Which is unnecessary unless you have a vacuum leak, in which case see my above post Wink

Honestly though, the one time I did this was when a friend of mine needed to drive his bug from his old house to the his new garage down the street. His DP intake boots were torn, and we didn't want to remove the engine until we got the the shop. (Can those be done in-car in a bug like they can on a bus?) I used the rivet method and took it out after we dropped the engine. Sure he could have just kept his foot on the gas at every stop, but this was a fun experiment, nothing more.

EDIT: I should mention, that Tim@VolkzBitz, a known quality rebuilder, will do the solder trick to your carb if you request it be suited for any 009. He will drill the solder hole out, essentially making a compromise between the original and "modified" versions. The stock hole allows more air to pass through the engine, I think cleaning up emissions in the process. Because remember, a carb is just a vacuum leak that you control with your foot Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I've read this post now for two days and just want to say thanks because it helped me with a host of issues.

I bought this 78 Super Vert for my wife a couple of years ago. It's the first bug we've owned and we picked it up while wine tasting. Yeah I know. Plenty of jokes there.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Anyway, I knew it didn't have the correct engine init but wasn't too worried about it. I've built plenty of engines before and now modify huge off road Toyota trucks so a little bug would be a piece of cake. Yeah right!

It didn't run right at all so i did the usual. Changed the plugs, fiddled with the carb, put in electronic ign, etc. Got it to run a bit better and the wife drove it for a year like that. I also swapped in front disc brakes and changed the suspension a bit.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then one day it started running really rough. I had wanted to pull the motor out and rebuild it and this was a perfect time. I satrted doing research on how to build these and quickly found out the previous owner knew nothing about what a proper air cooled setup should be. There was no engine tin on it except the cylinder covers, no thermostat, no vanes nothing. I decided to keep it just about 1600, actually it ended up being 1641cc, and would try to get all the engine tin back on.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Long story short, I got it all back together with all the right parts and put in an SVDA dizzy and a Solex 34pict-3 carb. Started it up and it came to life with no issues. But then when it warmed up and the choke opened it would just died. I set the timing at full advance and then tried to set the carb and could not get it to idle. I checked the idle switch and it seemed to be working correctly but I changed it for another one I had and then it would idle. Not real good but it would idle.
Then I read this post a little more and found the issue with the idle pilot jet. Turned it 1/4 turn and the thing just sat there and idled like a new car. Put a dab of blue lock tite on it and now my wife is a happy camper. Car just purrs and she is having blast driving here new car. Thanks again.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad it helped:0) with the ethanol in the fuel the stock idle jet is too small…

Just an FYI, the picture you posted looks great, but unless it was right after you installed it and had not yet fired it up yet, it looks like your manifold pre heat is not working, correctly working pre heat tubes coming off the exhaust get so hot they don’t make a paint that will not turn a dull white/gray after its been on the freeway for any lengthen of time ;0) So it is possible that it could run even better…
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionhart94010 wrote:
Glad it helped:0) with the ethanol in the fuel the stock idle jet is too small…

Just an FYI, the picture you posted looks great, but unless it was right after you installed it and had not yet fired it up yet, it looks like your manifold pre heat is not working, correctly working pre heat tubes coming off the exhaust get so hot they don’t make a paint that will not turn a dull white/gray after its been on the freeway for any lengthen of time ;0) So it is possible that it could run even better…


It hasn't been on the freeway yet. They work really good. They do get really hot. Ask me how I know..... I ran a drill with a goos sized stranded cable through it for a couple of days to get everything out of it and tapped on them pretty good before installing the intake back in.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 7:36 am    Post subject: CARBS Reply with quote

I have a 30/31 Brosol carb. It has 2 idle jets by the choke. I have never had a carb. with 2 like that. When I screw out the one closest to the rear of the car, the RPMS jump up. If it is working right, the RPMS should drop when opened, right?
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