Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Idle adjust on 34 PICT-3 FAQ
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 20, 21, 22, 23  Next
Jump to:
Forum Index -> Bay Window Bus Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
JaymzD
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Clovis, ca.
JaymzD is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've tried the carb adjustments based on the manual. I screwed the bypass screw and the fuel screw all the way in and then 3 turns out each to start. The bypass screw is supposed to control the high idle yet nothing changes when I turn it out, just the hissing noise gets louder. So back out the fuel screw more to add fuel? ALSO, when it's trying to die if I spray carb cleaner into the carb it doesn't rev up like you would think it should. so what now?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
busdaddy
Samba Member


Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51057
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
busdaddy is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The large screw controls speed, the smaller one the amount of fuel in the mixture, out is richer. If partially closing the choke plate makes it run better the mixture is currently too lean and the small screw needs to come out some.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JaymzD
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Clovis, ca.
JaymzD is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been there done that. That's why I'm so confused on this one. I'll try it again and see what happens.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
VolkzBitz Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: April 30, 2009
Posts: 300
Location: Washington State USA
VolkzBitz is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did this come on suddenly? Was it running ok before? Has the carb been sat for a long time? It certainly sounds like the idle circuit is blocked if you are sure there are no air leaks. So double check for air leaks by squirting WD40 or similar around all the joints one at a time especially around the rubber rings around the intake manifold, a leak will show a difference in engine noise. If no leaks, then its the idle circuit in the carb. Check the progression holes. With the carb off, look into the bottom of it, and open the throttle butterfly a little, you will see 4 tiny holes in a line, these are the progressions holes, make sure they are clear.
_________________
http://volkzbitz.com
Quality VW Solex carburetor restoration
[email protected]

Der Vergaser Meister
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JaymzD
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Clovis, ca.
JaymzD is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First of all, it's a new carb. I have already took it completely apart and cleaned it out. I've sprayed carb cleaner on every joint and nothing happens. Also when it's starting to die when I spray carb cleaner into the carb it kills the engine. Wouldn't have the opposite effect?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
busdaddy
Samba Member


Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51057
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
busdaddy is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JaymzD wrote:
First of all, it's a new carb.

Then check that the upper cover isn't warped, if it's not sealing fully over the idle circuit it'll cause issues, it can also cause a big vacuum leak where the choke breaker port goes up into the top cover. Also have a look at the choke breaker diapragm for tears or leaks.

The carb cleaner test depends on the cleaner as well as the mixture, do the test on a known good running car and compare your findings.

If you can get it to stay running try loosly cupping your hand over the throat and slowly closing up the gap until you start to feel a little suction, do the revs increase and then decrease?, or just decrease?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JaymzD
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Clovis, ca.
JaymzD is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I noticed while running the engine just now, the carb and the intake manifold is really cold, not quite frosting up but close.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
busdaddy
Samba Member


Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51057
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
busdaddy is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's normal, after a little while the preheat tubes running across between the exhaust ports under the manifold should heat it up, assuming they are connected and not plugged solid with carbon. Even when plugged fully with frost forming on the manifold it should still idle, lame throttle response and mileage but it should idle.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JaymzD
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Clovis, ca.
JaymzD is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok IT'S IDLING.I feel like an idiot but I didn't have the fuel screw out far enough. But it hesitates and stumbles when taking off and backfires a bit..just fine tuning? Timed it the other night, should I do I again?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
busdaddy
Samba Member


Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51057
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
busdaddy is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make absloutely sure the throttle plate is closing fully, you want all the flow going through the idle circuit. Now that you are close on the mixture set it up by the book (best idle and then lean for 50 RPM drop) and see how it behaves. Also make sure the tubes beneath the manifold get too hot to touch after a minute of running and the warm air hose is connected to your aircleaner and the thermostat in it is working. If all that fails go up a size on the idle jet and repeat. As for timing it shouldn't make a difference, set it to 28 degrees BTDC at ~3500RPM with the hoses off the distributor, then tighten the clamp and reattach any hoses.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JaymzD
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Clovis, ca.
JaymzD is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Make absloutely sure the throttle plate is closing fully, you want all the flow going through the idle circuit. Now that you are close on the mixture set it up by the book (best idle and then lean for 50 RPM drop) and see how it behaves. Also make sure the tubes beneath the manifold get too hot to touch after a minute of running and the warm air hose is connected to your aircleaner and the thermostat in it is working. If all that fails go up a size on the idle jet and repeat. As for timing it shouldn't make a difference, set it to 28 degrees BTDC at ~3500RPM with the hoses off the distributor, then tighten the clamp and reattach any hoses.


It's a 009 dist and I have no warm air hose connected to the air cleaner(not stock oil bath). How about just messing with the timing?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
JaymzD
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Clovis, ca.
JaymzD is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Make absloutely sure the throttle plate is closing fully, you want all the flow going through the idle circuit. Now that you are close on the mixture set it up by the book (best idle and then lean for 50 RPM drop) and see how it behaves. Also make sure the tubes beneath the manifold get too hot to touch after a minute of running and the warm air hose is connected to your aircleaner and the thermostat in it is working. If all that fails go up a size on the idle jet and repeat. As for timing it shouldn't make a difference, set it to 28 degrees BTDC at ~3500RPM with the hoses off the distributor, then tighten the clamp and reattach any hoses.


It's a 009 dist and I have no warm air hose connected to the air cleaner(not stock oil bath). How about just messing with the timing?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
busdaddy
Samba Member


Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51057
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
busdaddy is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mess away, YMMV, just don't blame me if you melt a piston.
An 009 will work fine if all the rest of the variables are addressed, skip a couple and suffer the flat spot.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JaymzD
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Clovis, ca.
JaymzD is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Mess away, YMMV, just don't blame me if you melt a piston.
An 009 will work fine if all the rest of the variables are addressed, skip a couple and suffer the flat spot.

OK what is YMMV and what would cause a piston to melt? Now you have me worried. And thank you very much for your advise. I kept me thinking.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
busdaddy
Samba Member


Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51057
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
busdaddy is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

YMMV=Your mileage may vary, seen that claim on a few car ads in the past perhaps?
As for dicking around with the timing unlike a small block Chevy (SBC in the future Wink ) a VW doesn't tolerate the timing being off by much at all and if you get it wrong things like this happen:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


When that happens your idling issues will seem small by comparison.

Here's my timing copy and paste answer that covers almost all aircooled applications (if youhave an 009 with no hoses disregard the hose parts):
busdaddy wrote:
First you need to determine exactly where TDC is on your pulley and then set the timing at speed like this: Here's my timing for noobs rundown (keep in mind this assumes you have a degree wheel, timing scale or dial advance timing light and know where TDC really is, if you don't understand the marks on your type 1 pulley read this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251672&highlight=stock+pulley+marks ).

If you only have one hose attached to your distributor pull it off, you don't need to cap it (no need on single hose systems), if you have 2 pull them both off but plug the one that was connected to the nipple facing the distributor (retard). Now connect the timing light to the battery and the #1 plug wire according to the timing light instructions (and set it to zero if it's the type with adjustments). Now start the engine and shoot the timing light at the scale and pulley (hold the light in your right hand), see the mark on the pulley?, good. Now using your left hand slowly open the throttle on the side of the carb or throttle body (move it the same way the cable pulls it) and watch the timing mark VS: the scale, the mark on the pulley should start to move to the left, open the throttle a little more and continue until the mark no longer moves to the left any more (yes it's loud, isn't it?), give it a bit more throttle just to confirm the mark is staying put at wherever it stopped (hopefully 28 degrees) and then release the throttle. If it stopped at 28 move on to carb/FI adjustment, if it went past or didn't make it all the way loosen the distributor clamp a little and turn the distributor a few degrees one way or the other (you pick, if it's worse go the other way), repeat until you find the happy spot and don't forget to tighten the clamp when you are done (make sure the distributor is pushed down all the way into the case too). Avoid loose fitting clothing and long hair near spinning fans and belts too, no need for a trip to emergency. Now put the hose back on, pack up the timing light and move on to carb or FI adjustment..

_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Tcash
Samba Member


Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
Tcash is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 7:36 am    Post subject: Carburetor Adjustments 34 Pict & H30/31, Volkzbitz Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_upload.php?cat_id=666

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Rocknrod
Samba Member


Joined: November 02, 2004
Posts: 2157
Location: North Carolina
Rocknrod is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Red Neck method to reduce carburetor icing on carbs that don't have their stock filters and pre-heat:

Take an empty metal can large enough to fit the filter element inside of, pop a hole in the top for the screw to pass through and place on top of the carburetor. Trim the height of the can so it does not interfere with the throttle cable, but leave it as long a possible.

This forces the carb to suck warm air off the top of the engine, and makes a little hot-house for the carburetor to live in side at idle.

It cuts down on icing, quite a bit and you can take an engine that ices up soid in the 20's pulling up to traffic lights, and keep it idling.

The old empi round filters work well with a quart paint pail... Laughing

Cheers,

Zach
_________________
1971 Westfalia with a high top.
http://71vwbus.blogspot.com/ - Pictures and words... Oh My!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
wcfvw69 Premium Member
Samba Purist


Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13382
Location: Arizona
wcfvw69 is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 2:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Idle adjust on 34-PICT-3 Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7918729#7918729

Since this is the "sticky" on these 34-3's, I wanted to add this thread to it. Here's what I did to fix my 34-3 that had to have the idle/pilot jet cracked to achieve an idle and have the jet tightened in the carb.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Who.Me? Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: July 14, 2014
Posts: 2190
Location: UK (South)
Who.Me? is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 5:59 am    Post subject: Re: Idle adjust on 34-PICT-3 FAQ Reply with quote

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but this seems to be where to ask.

I'm having trouble setting up my 34 PICT 3 to idle correctly.

From cold, it struggles and I have to give it some gas to get it to start to idle. When warm, the idle can (but not always) idle 'normally' at around 850 rpm if my truck is sat, but it idles very low and feels on the verge of stalling after decellerating on the road. Pick up from idle is fine and acceleration seems smooth enough.

My carb is matched to the correct european-spec SVDA Bosch distributor (I checked the numbers). The engine is a tired 1600 dual port with compression in the 97-100 range when cold and 110-115 when warm.

The carb was professionally rebuilt around 500 miles ago. I've never managed to get it to idle properly, but I thought that was down to poor technique on my part until I started reading this thread.

When I tune the carb, the idle wanders over a 50-100 rpm band, but doesn't 'hunt' like a vacuum leak (had that problem a couple of years ago and fixed it. I can't detect any vacuum leaks today).

The VW resource pages say to adjust the volume screw until the rpms drop by about 20, then back off a bit, but I can't detect a change that fine. When the rpms drop, they do it suddenly and it drops by around 200rpm, so I back off at that point.

After tuning it as best I could the other day, I took it for a mixed run on fast and local roads, the plugs look like this...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


To me, the top electrode says 'too lean', while the ring at the top of the threads says 'too rich'.

When rebuilt, the carb was set up with the following jets...

Main 130
Pilot (idle) 55
Air correction 80z
Aux 47.5

Local fuel is 5% ethanol.

I'm thinking the idle jet might be a little small and have ordered a couple of sizes of bigger idle jets to try. Does that sound sensible, or am I barking up the wrong tree?
_________________
Andy


Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Spike0180
Samba Member


Joined: June 06, 2015
Posts: 2269
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Spike0180 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 6:53 am    Post subject: Re: Idle adjust on 34-PICT-3 FAQ Reply with quote

It looks lean to me looking at that plug. As for the oil on the top, I would assume that is all residual oil from a leak of some sort and wouldn't expect fuel to be that high up the spark plug. You may want to run some tests where you let it idle, then check plugs (this will tell you if your idle mixture is off/on. Then set it to something like 2500-3000rpm run. This should tell you if your main is accurate (id say it looks lean by that picture). You may try pulling your jets and make sure there isn't a little piece of packaging in there restricting flow or anything. Make sure your float is set correctly too.
_________________
Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Bay Window Bus All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 20, 21, 22, 23  Next
Jump to:
Page 21 of 23

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.