Author |
Message |
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 2:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
sonnyswords wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
durfeec wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
Dog Leg Repair sections; the right side front and back lined up well, however the left side will require some extra work.
|
Both my lower sections are messed up like that. |
Ya check this out. Nothing a hammer and heat won't fix, but this sucks and it is pretty far off. Excuse may shit tack welds it was late .
The rest went together pretty well. |
I live in the bay area too, love to come check out your single cab. |
Cool! What u buildin? _________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
sonnyswords Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Foster City, CA
|
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 4:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
nice dad wrote: |
sonnyswords wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
durfeec wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
Dog Leg Repair sections; the right side front and back lined up well, however the left side will require some extra work.
|
Both my lower sections are messed up like that. |
Ya check this out. Nothing a hammer and heat won't fix, but this sucks and it is pretty far off. Excuse may shit tack welds it was late .
The rest went together pretty well. |
I live in the bay area too, love to come check out your single cab. |
Cool! What u buildin? |
I'm working on a 65 13 window, converting it to 21 window plus replacing a lots of rusted metal. I'm about to start on the front end like you, waiting on a head light bucket support from Gerson. It's really slow because this is my first project and first time learning to weld. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wrenchnride247 Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2010 Posts: 251 Location: Cleveland, TN
|
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
nice dad wrote: |
Here is some patch work, getting rid of the rust while keeping the OG metal BTW if any of the experienced metal workers want to chime in on suggestion I am all ears! I am trying to only grind down the welds and not the surrounding metal. Also using 20 ga. cold rolled steel for patches. |
What kind of grinder are you using? And, what type and grit abrasives? _________________ SPL
'62 SC 69x90.5 SP TI
'70 T1 84x105 DP T4 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
EverettB Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000 Posts: 69829 Location: Phoenix Metro
|
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 10:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
nice dad wrote: |
EverettB wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
What are these grooves for?
|
Oiling the hinges so stuff doesn't freeze up.
|
Very cool! I wonder who actually does this with all the frozen pins out there ! |
Good question... The guy who owned my Double Cab before me did, both mirror arms came right out... by hand. _________________ How to Post Photos
Everett Barnes - [email protected] | My wanted ads
"Water is the only drink for a wise man" | "Communication prevents complaints"
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:08 am Post subject: |
|
|
wrenchnride247 wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
Here is some patch work, getting rid of the rust while keeping the OG metal BTW if any of the experienced metal workers want to chime in on suggestion I am all ears! I am trying to only grind down the welds and not the surrounding metal. Also using 20 ga. cold rolled steel for patches. |
What kind of grinder are you using? And, what type and grit abrasives?
|
Thanks for responding.
I use a wire brush and the black abrasive disk to prep (clean) the metal to bare. Then after weld goes down I use a pretty aggressive disk on my 4" angle grinder (Diablo). After I get most of the extra material off I go to an angle grinder and was using some 80 grit disks. My framing compressor can't keep up with my angle grinder so I am looking into a two stage. I ran out of disks that came with the grinder so I went to OSH and bought a variety of different grits.
_________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wrenchnride247 Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2010 Posts: 251 Location: Cleveland, TN
|
Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
nice dad wrote: |
wrenchnride247 wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
Here is some patch work, getting rid of the rust while keeping the OG metal BTW if any of the experienced metal workers want to chime in on suggestion I am all ears! I am trying to only grind down the welds and not the surrounding metal. Also using 20 ga. cold rolled steel for patches. |
What kind of grinder are you using? And, what type and grit abrasives?
|
Thanks for responding.
I use a wire brush and the black abrasive disk to prep (clean) the metal to bare. Then after weld goes down I use a pretty aggressive disk on my 4" angle grinder (Diablo). After I get most of the extra material off I go to an angle grinder and was using some 80 grit disks. My framing compressor can't keep up with my angle grinder so I am looking into a two stage. I ran out of disks that came with the grinder so I went to OSH and bought a variety of different grits. |
I use a stripping disc like the one you pictured to get to bare metal. They last pretty good. However, I DON'T go near auto sheet metal with a 4" grinder. I know most don't have a big compressor ( I see you are thinking about it though) and have no choice but to use them. They generate way too much heat very quickly. That warps your panel and causes you to grind too deep to get rid of the weld because of the metal shrinking and going concave on you. I use a die grinder (angle or straight depending on access) with a 3M "green corps" 3"1/32 thick cut off disc to "knock down" the weld beads. Also use these for cutting, they last three times as long as cheaper ones. This takes some practice to not go too deep, but generates way less heat. There are plenty of videos that show people using this method. Then, I go to a 2" 36 grit disc and don't put a lot of pressure on it. Then I go to a DA with 80 grit if I can get to it. I don't have one of the little 3" DA's that have come out recently (I'm looking at them though ) That's kinda the basic stuff I use... _________________ SPL
'62 SC 69x90.5 SP TI
'70 T1 84x105 DP T4 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 3:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
wrenchnride247 wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
wrenchnride247 wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
Here is some patch work, getting rid of the rust while keeping the OG metal BTW if any of the experienced metal workers want to chime in on suggestion I am all ears! I am trying to only grind down the welds and not the surrounding metal. Also using 20 ga. cold rolled
Font colour: Font size: Close Tags
steel for patches. |
What kind of grinder are you using? And, what type and grit abrasives?
|
Thanks for responding.
I use a wire brush and the black abrasive disk to prep (clean) the metal to bare. Then after weld goes down I use a pretty aggressive disk on my 4" angle grinder (Diablo). After I get most of the extra material off I go to an angle grinder and was using some 80 grit disks. My framing compressor can't keep up with my angle grinder so I am looking into a two stage. I ran out of disks that came with the grinder so I went to OSH and bought a variety of different grits. |
I use a stripping disc like the one you pictured to get to bare metal. They last pretty good. However, I DON'T go near auto sheet metal with a 4" grinder. I know most don't have a big compressor ( I see you are thinking about it though) and have no choice but to use them. They generate way too much heat very quickly. That warps your panel and causes you to grind too deep to get rid of the weld because of the metal shrinking and going concave on you. I use a die grinder (angle or straight depending on access) with a 3M "green corps" 3"1/32 thick cut off disc to "knock down" the weld beads. Also use these for cutting, they last three times as long as cheaper ones. This takes some practice to not go too deep, but generates way less heat. There are plenty of videos that show people using this method. Then, I go to a 2" 36 grit disc and don't put a lot of pressure on it. Then I go to a DA with 80 grit if I can get to it. I don't have one of the little 3" DA's that have come out recently (I'm looking at them though ) That's kinda the basic stuff I use... |
Awesome!
Well now that I have just picked up the biggest compressor I could afford, its game on
I got er home and found out the pressure switch was broken, got on the phone and in two days I will have a new one. Great customer service so far!
Two Stage 15.8 CFM @ 90 PSI $799.00
I need to plumb in two regulators with gauges so I can run at least two different tools that require different PSI's.
Motor Case made in Italy which to me is good (stainless steel valves). They make great water pumps over there as well.
_________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 3:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
EverettB wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
EverettB wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
What are these grooves for?
|
Oiling the hinges so stuff doesn't freeze up.
|
Very cool! I wonder who actually does this with all the frozen pins out there ! |
Good question... The guy who owned my Double Cab before me did, both mirror arms came right out... by hand. |
It is nice to know that "originally" some people took very good care of their vehicles. To most General Maintenance, as specific as that, is overlooked. Heck I know some people that do not even change their motor oil, just keep adding to it . _________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 9:02 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Vani11aGori11a wrote: |
I'm still stoked to see this truck getting some love.....It needs it. My fav is still the sticker in the rear window. |
Ya this is pretty cool!
_________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
chinarider Samba Member
Joined: November 08, 2002 Posts: 276 Location: San Francisco, CA
|
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:14 am Post subject: |
|
|
Damn, Scott, you've got some great work going on there! Really cool to see everything coming along like that. Can't wait to see her on the road!!! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Schwing Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2009 Posts: 2506 Location: Centreville, MD
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Schwing wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
Front Lower Valance is in and I wanted to show what I thought are key alignment points. That being said I am by no means a seasoned metal worker . I do have some experience welding. That is my disclaimer .
|
Did you have to drill out any spot welds for the lower headlight panel? I started cutting away my nose and releasing many years of hard mouse work the other night. |
Nope no drilling required they popped with my impact gun. I did drill them out for spot welding back to the new piece. I recommend using a weldable primer where you will not have access later.
Thanks _________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Schwing Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2009 Posts: 2506 Location: Centreville, MD
|
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
nice dad wrote: |
Schwing wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
Front Lower Valance is in and I wanted to show what I thought are key alignment points. That being said I am by no means a seasoned metal worker . I do have some experience welding. That is my disclaimer .
|
Did you have to drill out any spot welds for the lower headlight panel? I started cutting away my nose and releasing many years of hard mouse work the other night. |
Nope no drilling required they popped with my impact gun. I did drill them out for spot welding back to the new piece. I recommend using a weldable primer where you will not have access later.
Thanks |
Thanks man appreciate it. I spent 3+ hours removing the lower nose, inner and outer valence. Your pic was invaluable and now I know what I need to fab.
Loving your pictures thanks again. _________________ Shadetree Westy
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=657279&highlight=
Single Cab - BBXXVII Long Distance Winner
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
chinarider wrote: |
Damn, Scott, you've got some great work going on there! Really cool to see everything coming along like that. Can't wait to see her on the road!!! |
Thanks man, enjoying the process tremendously. _________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Schwing wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
Schwing wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
Front Lower Valance is in and I wanted to show what I thought are key alignment points. That being said I am by no means a seasoned metal worker . I do have some experience welding. That is my disclaimer .
|
Did you have to drill out any spot welds for the lower headlight panel? I started cutting away my nose and releasing many years of hard mouse work the other night. |
Nope no drilling required they popped with my impact gun. I did drill them out for spot welding back to the new piece. I recommend using a weldable primer where you will not have access later.
Thanks |
Thanks man appreciate it. I spent 3+ hours removing the lower nose, inner and outer valence. Your pic was invaluable and now I know what I need to fab.
Loving your pictures thanks again. |
No worries, my pleasure. Nice to hear you are starting the front end work! Just take your time, everything will fall into place. _________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:14 pm Post subject: KF Meet AC |
|
|
So for the RH side I decided to mix it up a little. AC A-Pillar Extension with a KF Valance Extension. Never been done before in the history of VW repair Well it just felt right saying that .
_________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:17 pm Post subject: Tanners first time welding |
|
|
Well the kid wanted to try it, to that I say AWESOME!
_________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ok so for those who are attempting to use air tools that require H.O. CFM on a small compressor, the two stage is the BOMB and I am in LOVE. What who said it is all about having the right tool for the job OMG!!!! This is the right tool for the job. Thanks to all who suggested the two-stage.
_________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Wide Five meet BF Goodrich
Let the overtime begin, the SC has new shoes. Next step is to slap them on and turn her around so I can work on the RH side PILLAR.
_________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
|
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Shoes are on
Now I can move 'er out and turn 'er around
_________________ 1967 Single Cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|