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zozo Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2005 Posts: 5217 Location: South of Ol' San Antonio
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Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:18 am Post subject: |
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kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
The ordeal is over...just installed the shifter and drove down the road! I enjoyed the experience, but once is enough. I'll never buy a bus again with a totally rotten floor, lower A-pillars, and forward dog legs...that's a deal breaker for this old man. |
Congrats Ken. Whatever your next undertaking is with it, it'll seem like a day in the park compared to all that. |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:33 am Post subject: |
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Absolutely. I'm very ready to move on to the "Turd's" other areas of need. |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:02 am Post subject: |
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Last photo. Girlfriend can't understand why I put a 48 year old funky mat down on that beautiful white floor!
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nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
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Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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Wow Look awesome. Nice job.
That is why women are from venus men are from mars _________________ 1967 Single Cab |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 2:03 pm Post subject: |
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Reinstalled the heater tube today...almost all day...geeeessshhhhh...I HATE that contraption! It was the worst part of the removal process, and even worse getting it back in. Tomorrow I'll re tack weld it back together (took all day today just refitting it all together), and use seam sealer at all the joints to give me the best flow of heat (and carbon monoxide). _________________ Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:17 am Post subject: |
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kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
Voila! Lotta work left but it's in and lined up pretty nicely...not a terrible amount of fitting needed.
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Hey Ken
I am having problems getting my pan into the cab. Seems the headlight panel is in the way, but yours are in when you fit yours. Help!
_________________ 1967 Single Cab |
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glideking Samba Member
Joined: February 02, 2013 Posts: 990 Location: California
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nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:36 am Post subject: |
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glideking wrote: |
The first of your photos is the correct position to begin. Keep the front of the floor up against the bottom of the headlight buckets. You then push the back of the floor down in back. Then you finish pushing the front of the floor down the rest of the way. The floor will taco a bit but not too much. The floor needs to be trimmed at the A pillars in width to fit your bus. The flange that holds the kick panel should have a small gap to the A pillar. Sand the cut smooth before you install.
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Cool thanks for the input. How easy is it to get back out? I just wanted to test fit for now. Or should I prep and set. _________________ 1967 Single Cab |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:05 am Post subject: |
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Yep, get the front in first. It's a total PITA, the rear, at least on mine, was VERY tough to then press down. It was tempting to just take it back out once, but I stuck with it and fitted / refitted it many times. Getting it out each time was a bitch! It required a pry bar where the rear if the floor meets the seat pedestal and lots of cursing and trying to remember the angle the floor "liked". Patience paid off. _________________ Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:10 am Post subject: |
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kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
Yep, get the front in first. It's a total PITA, the rear, at least on mine, was VERY tough to then press down. It was tempting to just take it back out once, but I stuck with it and fitted / refitted it many times. Getting it out each time was a bitch! It required a pry bar where the rear if the floor meets the seat pedestal and lots of cursing and trying to remember the angle the floor "liked". Patience paid off. |
Thanks for the help. I will try and keep the cursing to a minimum. Sounds like I will need to crank up the volume on the radio! _________________ 1967 Single Cab |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:14 am Post subject: |
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nice dad wrote: |
kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
Yep, get the front in first. It's a total PITA, the rear, at least on mine, was VERY tough to then press down. It was tempting to just take it back out once, but I stuck with it and fitted / refitted it many times. Getting it out each time was a bitch! It required a pry bar where the rear if the floor meets the seat pedestal and lots of cursing and trying to remember the angle the floor "liked". Patience paid off. |
Thanks for the help. I will try and keep the cursing to a minimum. Sounds like I will need to crank up the volume on the radio! |
I'm glad it was the first job i chose to do on "The Turd", because I can't imagine any job on this thing being more trying and frustrating. I'm glad because now I'm willing to tackle any job on her, and they all pale in comparison. _________________ Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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nice dad Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013 Posts: 317 Location: Honolulu, HI
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:45 am Post subject: |
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kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
nice dad wrote: |
kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
Yep, get the front in first. It's a total PITA, the rear, at least on mine, was VERY tough to then press down. It was tempting to just take it back out once, but I stuck with it and fitted / refitted it many times. Getting it out each time was a bitch! It required a pry bar where the rear if the floor meets the seat pedestal and lots of cursing and trying to remember the angle the floor "liked". Patience paid off. |
Thanks for the help. I will try and keep the cursing to a minimum. Sounds like I will need to crank up the volume on the radio! |
I'm glad it was the first job i chose to do on "The Turd", because I can't imagine any job on this thing being more trying and frustrating. I'm glad because now I'm willing to tackle any job on her, and they all pale in comparison. |
I am glad too. The post and pictures really helps me out. I just can't wait to drive this beast! _________________ 1967 Single Cab |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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A follow up...I'm finishing up the reinstall in the front cabin, and am installing the kick panels today. I've had to slice 4mm off of the bottom of the passenger side just now in order to get it to fit. The "U" shaped "shelf that the bottom of the panel fits into was too high. Seems I didn't hammer that edge down far enough or it was just formed a little different that the original...no big deal. Cant wait to see if the driver's side is the same. I'll report. _________________ Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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Taederbug Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2012 Posts: 154 Location: Morganton, NC
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:12 am Post subject: |
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Thanks so much for posting all this. I start demo this weekend on my 63 Kombi floor and I will have this forum post up on my IPAD for quick reference.
Question: Would it be easier, if the metal around the heater tube is all good, to leave some of it and cut out that part of the new floor and fit it that way to avoid the pita that the Heater tube can become when fitting in the new floor?
ok.. that was a long question.
Sam |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:09 am Post subject: |
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Taederbug wrote: |
Thanks so much for posting all this. I start demo this weekend on my 63 Kombi floor and I will have this forum post up on my IPAD for quick reference.
Question: Would it be easier, if the metal around the heater tube is all good, to leave some of it and cut out that part of the new floor and fit it that way to avoid the pita that the Heater tube can become when fitting in the new floor?
ok.. that was a long question.
Sam |
ABSOLUTELY ! If I ever do a floor again, that's my route. I asked that same question before doing my floor about the steering column hole, and was talked out of it by mostly those who said the column was easy enough to remove (true), and a few others who said it was lazy or just wrong to cut into a nice new floor. At that point I thought the steering column was the problem. It wasn't. The heater tube is a major PITA. I fact, I just finished that job by trying to remove enough rust on the sections underneath the floor to tack the pieces all back together and then sealing up the seams with POR Patch™ (Great stuff BTW). I would highly recommend making two cuts forward of that hole in the floor, and removing that piece so the floor will slip right past the heater tube, therefore leaving your heater tube intact IF it's in good shape. Others may now flame away! _________________ Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:11 am Post subject: |
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Oh...I see...you want to leave some of the old floor that currently surrounds the heater tube. If it is in good shape, that's an even better idea (IMNSHO). _________________ Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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pfcmooney Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2011 Posts: 219 Location: New Brockton, AL
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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Great write up! Thanks for sharing! _________________ Thinking comes from not knowing... |
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Taederbug Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2012 Posts: 154 Location: Morganton, NC
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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I'll let you know how it goes. Do some demo first and get all the rusted metal out but the section around the heater tube. Then post some picks and see what people think.
Sam |
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Red Fau Veh Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2012 Posts: 3037 Location: Prescott Az.
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Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:25 am Post subject: |
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I don't want to remove my heater tube, I will cut floor instead! _________________ 1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey
Touch Nicks Thing wrote: |
Swivel Seat panels are for people with no friends |
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Taederbug Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2012 Posts: 154 Location: Morganton, NC
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 9:11 am Post subject: |
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So, got the front floor out. I have since removed the pedals, cut out the E-brake Handle, and removed the shifter. I have put in the new DCMC and I am working on getting in the new metal lines. So here is the question...
What should I have done before I weld in the new floor?
I have new lower doglegs on the way from Monkey Nut. Should i put them in First before the floor. Should I Por 15 all before? The backside of the nose has some rust I have cut out. Will it be easier to replace that before I put in the Floor? The "A" pillars look ok with some small patch welding to do. I am assuming it would be easier to do that before the floor. All info is welcome and please forgive the slight "Hi-jack" of your post.
Sam |
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