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A Total Noobs's 1974 Super Beetle Restoration *Help Needed*
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 1:54 pm    Post subject: A Total Noobs's 1974 Super Beetle Restoration *Help Needed* Reply with quote

Hello everyone! My name is Sam and I live in the Toledo, Ohio area.

This thread will document my continuing restoration of my 1974 Super Beetle and serve as a place for me to ask for advice from the community. Even with the Bentley manual, John Muir's book and my own research from various websites I still have a million and one questions about the best ways to go about repairing and maintaining this car.

I have loved cars since I was a kid and I know a little about how they work but I am VERY new to actually working on my own cars besides doing oil changes on my truck. I am going to need all the help I can get and I greatly appreciate anyone who decides to help me along with this project.

I will also try to make tutorials using the experience gained from this project for people like me who grossly over-think instructions and need every little detail explained to understand how to do something. Brick wall

Enough of my rambling, let's get on with the build! Smile

Here's what we're dealing with. These photos were taken the day I got it home.

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Before I started looking for a Beetle of my own I read every bit of information I could about what you need to look out for when buying one. I decided to find a relatively stock Super Beetle because of the lower cost and better practicality (I don't mind the look of the later Beetles at all) In my price range I decided it didn't need to be very pretty as long as it ran and drove and was rust free. I started checking craigslist every day and learned that there are 4 types of Beetles for sale in this area:

- fully restored, and priced upwards of 6 grand (way out of this recent high school graduate's price range)

- heavily modified, and asking 5-6 grand (still too much, and I don't want to pay for modifications I am just going to remove anyway)

- baja bugs that have been beat to all hell, or stillborn half-ripped-apart conversions

- Beetles that look pretty stock but have terminal cancer of the heater channels, doors, fenders, shock towers, or all of the above, have trashed interiors and usually barely run if at all. These people still wanted 1-2 grand.

Stock, non rusted out reasonably priced cars were few and far between, so when I came across this one I thought I found the holy grail. It ran, had no visible rust holes, only a few paint bubbles along the driver's front fender, it had a decent interior, and a front disc brake conversion but needed a lot of little things. He was asking $3250. I emailed the guy and not 5 minutes later he called me back. He was more than friendly and made it very clear what parts needed work. We talked for a while and he answered a few questions I had about the car. I went to go see it the very same day.

When I went to see this car in person, all of my careful research and logical thinking went out the window. Embarassed I quickly looked over the typical rust points and didn't see any holes and there wasn't even a whole lot of surface rust to speak of. He started it up and after warming up for a while we took it for a drive it seemed to run really well, and the trans shifted fine although the SCAT shifter installed in the car sucked. I looked throughout the car and noted some of the things that needed replacement.

This is where the story gets ugly. After being around this car for 15 minutes I was in love. After searching for so long for a good Beetle my patience ran out and all I could think about was owning this car. I overlooked the fact that it sometimes popped out of first when moving the car from a stop, attributing it to the horrible SCAT shifter I was going to rip out and replace anyway. I ignored the fact that the wiring was a rat's nest because of the stereo/satellite radio system that the previous previous owner (not the guys I bought it from, the person HE bought it from) tried to install. I ignored the fact that the interior was pretty rough and it was going to cost a lot of money to get it back to the condition I wanted it in. I ignored the fact that the automatic choke needed replaced and there were some extra wires in the engine bay that weren't hooked up to anything. I ignored the fact that the starter gets stuck frequently and you have to rock the car to get it unstuck. I ignored the fact that the engine compartment seal was falling out and I would need to drop the engine to replace it. I ignored the fact that the OIL PRESSURE IDIOT LIGHT WAS ON THE ENTIRE TIME WE DROVE IT. d'oh! Again I attributed it to the horrible wiring, figuring that if it hadn't blew up on the test drive it wasn't going to.

They guy said he paid $3500 for it and wanted to get all of his money back out of it. He had lowered the price in the ad to $3250 in the add to spark interest. I sort of knew how these types of people thought and I knew he wasn't going to take much less and would probably find the $2500 I wanted to offer insulting. So I managed to talk him down to $3000. Rolling Eyes I wouldn't be so upset and embarrassed if it weren't for the ridiculous price I payed for the car.

A few days after our first meeting, I gave him the cash, he signed over the title, and he drove the Beetle to my house for me since I still really didn't know how to drive a stick and it was about a 35 minute Interstate drive. This is when the pictures above were taken.

The engine still seemed to be fine after the journey to my house so over the next two weeks I drove it around town getting a feel for the manual transmission and getting together a list of parts to begin fixing her up, with the oil light on and the engine compartment seal leaking like a sieve. Embarassed (extremely stupid, I know but this is the first car I have bought myself and I wanted to ENJOY IT). A few days ago I was driving it home from work and it started running kind of rough and it didn't sound good. It also seemed like it lost a little power. I also noticed that the motor rocks quite a bit. It did not do that when I first bought it. I have stopped driving it for fear of causing damage or getting stranded somewhere.

So that is everything that has lead up to this thread. Today I am beginning the process of undoing the second owner's (and my own) stupidity and bringing this car back to its former beauty.

The odometer hasn't worked since the previous owner bought it. So the first thing I have decided to tackle is the odometer gear, figuring that I can't keep track of maintenance if I don't know how many miles it has been since I last changed the oil and checked the valves.

Just a few hours ago I began the process of removing the speedometer from the dash. I used the procedure found in the Bentley manual. If anyone would like me to make a detailed how-to, please let me know. I have plenty of pictures.

First I removed the negative ground strap.

To remove the speedometer you must push it out from behind. (Super Beetles only) This requires removing the dash switch panel.

It is held on by 5 Philips head screws which are hidden behind plastic covers as shown below. I used a flathead screwdriver to pry off the ends ends and a pocket knife to get the small center cap. Be very gentle as the plastic is well over 30 years old and can get very brittle.

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I have an original VDO dash clock! I hear those are pretty rare. Dancing

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Maybe I was doing something wrong but I could not get the panel all the way out after removing the screws. It kept getting stuck on various parts of the dash and steering column. For fear of breaking the very thin plastic I simply pulled it out as far as I could and worked through this hole. (I have really skinny hands and arms. If you have larger hands you will want to completely remove the panel.)

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Before pushing the speedometer out you must unscrew the speedometer cable from the back of the unit. It is the silver looking thing in the above image.

Then simply push the speedometer out from behind.

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Next you must remove all wires from the back of the unit. If you have no clue what wires go where like I do, it is important to label the wires and terminals as you separate them, or draw a diagram of the back of the unit. I chose to label the wires because it is hard to see the back with all the wires still in place, but do whatever works best for you.

I labeled them based on the order I removed them. Wire 1 goes to terminal 1 and so on. I ended up with 11 wires total.

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Victory! The speedometer is out, and now I can begin taking it apart to replace that pesky odometer gear.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


More to come.

-Sam
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back when I worked at the VW shop, I would remove later Super speedometers by pulling on each side with a pair of hook tools after unhooking the cable

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So for speedometer/odometer work, have you spotted these threads I contributed to?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=179776&start=10

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=327535

-Andy
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sam, welcome!

First off, I won't badger you on how to buy a car. You will learn all on your own as the years filter away. I have a 1974 Super Beetle and have done quite a bit to re-do what previous owners have done--so I still haven't fallen in love with the little golden egg, just yet!.

I would caution you, first, not to worry about cosmetic items and inconsequential items like the odometer. You need to find out why the oil light comes on, first thing.

Brakes! Check them out now to see where you're at. Stopping is the most important thing on a bug--or any other car for that matter.

Forget about the interior dress-up stuff, and see what's up with that 1st gear, popping out. Maybe it's the crummy shifter you have (so get a stock one); maybe your shift bushing is worn (or coupler) and it never really gets all the way into first to begin with; maybe the shift housing/shift plate is not adjusted properly. But ... maybe your first gear (a slider) is going south. Hopefully, it's just one or several of the other potentials, I mentioned.

Save the pretty-up stuff until last. When pulling the engine to install the new engine-to-body seal, check out the flywheel teeth. Are they worn badly by a starter that may be loose? If so, you'll have to replace it.

The starter--if not merely loose--will probably need replacement, then. Get one for an autostick--not for a manual. No bushing needed--and it's bigger and better.

Anyway, looks like you have ... the bug.

P.S. Buy a torque wrench!

Later,

Tim
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo - Those look like they would help, but don't you have to take off the dash switch panel anyway to unhook the cable? And yes, I have seen those. They will help a lot when I get to taking apart the speedometer. I'll be sure to give you a shout out when I get to that part. Smile

Tim - Thanks for the welcome! Don't worry, the interior is at the bottom of the to-do list at this point. The only reason I'm starting with the odometer is because the gear got here way before the other tune-up parts I've ordered.

Luckily the brakes work very well. I haven't noticed any fade. I have had to do a panic stop with them and they worked just fine. I was very pleasantly surprised.

As for the transmission, it does feel like first gear isn't ever quite fulling engaging, and I have to shift into it very slowly and gently for it to go. The other 3 gears are just fine. I have ordered a new stock shifter and shift rod bushing from aircooled.net, but they have not left the warehouse yet so it could be up to another week and a half before they get here. I am also going to inspect the shift coupler and see what kind of shape that is in. I have also heard that broken trans mounts can cause the popping problem. I will take a look at those too.

I am obviously no expert, but I think the oil pressure light actually is a wiring issue. It never goes off unless the car is turned off. When you turn on the the key it lights up, and stays lit up after starting it and does not flicker or go out, even at high speeds where the oil pressure should be adequate. As other threads have suggested I have tried unplugging the wire and grounding it to the body, the engine case and the carb, and it does not turn off. I think the wiring is grounding out somewhere else. The wire going to the unit isn't the correct color or gauge and appears to be spliced into the harness somewhere near the firewall with electrical tape.
I'm guessing this was a kludge by one of the POs. I have ordered a new sending unit and I am going to try to clean up the wiring and see what happens.

I will be sure to inspect the flywheel while I have the engine out. The starter sticking gets very annoying and it can take quite a while to get it unstuck.

A torque wrench is on the tools list along with a quality jack and jack stands, a multimeter, a strobe timing light and Tach/Dwell meter. (I'm going to check the timing and see if thats the cause of my engine running rough and I plan on replacing the 009 with a SVDA distributor.)

Thank you both for the advice.

-Sam
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to add this: when pulling the instrument panel switch cluster, although it may seem as if something is stuck and you're afraid of breaking something--go ahead and tilt the cluster up or down, and coax the panel toward you.

You may have encountered some resistance, but a tilt here or there will do the trick. Just take your time and don't get heavy-handed.

Removing the switches on the panel is then a "snap" (actually a "pinch");and removing the speedometer is much easier, too, since you can use both hands to do it.

Tim
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the speedometer apart last night, using glutamodo's excellent thread on taking apart a speedometer http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=179776&start=10
and this link http://www.midsouthvw.com/TechTips/OdometerGearRR.htm#TOP to clear up some of the specifics for my later speedometer.

Just as suspected, the culprit was a cracked odometer gear. I replaced it and cleaned up the terminals some. I have pictures but they turned out very grainy. My iPod doesn't like the lighting in my room.

I think the generator warning bulb is burnt out, and so is one of the speedo illumination bulbs, but the filaments appear to be intact. What is the easiest way to test if the bulbs work?

More to come,

-Sam
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not exactly a later speedometer - just a slightly different one (Super vs Standard) as that speedometer with the cracked gear in my thread was from 12/74. Glad it helped.

Two ways to test bulbs, either hook them up to power, or measure the resistance with an ohm meter.

-Andy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
Not exactly a later speedometer - just a slightly different one (Super vs Standard) as that speedometer with the cracked gear in my thread was from 12/74. Glad it helped.

Two ways to test bulbs, either hook them up to power, or measure the resistance with an ohm meter.

-Andy


Oh my mistake, I was mixing that up with your other post when you took apart the '64 speedometer.

I don't have any extra wire around and I don't have a multimeter, so that's going to have to wait. Is the correct way to set that up positive to the bulb socket terminal and negative to some part of the speedo case?
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or you can pull the bulbholder out and do it by hand. 5 dollar Harbor Freight multimeter here:

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the picture. I'll try to pick up a multimeter some time this week.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
Or you can pull the bulbholder out and do it by hand. 5 dollar Harbor Freight multimeter here:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Usually, in the harbor freight ad, they give away a multimeter. We have like 20 built up :L. They give away free flashlights one week, screw drivers another and mulimeters another as far as I can tell. If you don't want to shell out five bucks you can usually ask one of the clerks they'll give you one for free even if you don't have a coupon.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cortexgunner92 wrote:


Usually, in the harbor freight ad, they give away a multimeter. We have like 20 built up :L. They give away free flashlights one week, screw drivers another and mulimeters another as far as I can tell. If you don't want to shell out five bucks you can usually ask one of the clerks they'll give you one for free even if you don't have a coupon.


Wow, that's amazing! Doesn't get any cheaper than free. I'll definitely go across town soon and check that out.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walking Contradiction wrote:
cortexgunner92 wrote:


Usually, in the harbor freight ad, they give away a multimeter. We have like 20 built up :L. They give away free flashlights one week, screw drivers another and mulimeters another as far as I can tell. If you don't want to shell out five bucks you can usually ask one of the clerks they'll give you one for free even if you don't have a coupon.


Wow, that's amazing! Doesn't get any cheaper than free. I'll definitely go across town soon and check that out.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You might be able to print this one off even idk. If you don't get the harbor frieght ad already. They have the ads in the store but they don't have the free offers. Looks like I was a tad flawed in my previous post and you do have to purchase something. But it isn't too hard to find SOMETHING useful(and cheap) when you're at tools-by-the-pound.

Good luck on the build m8! Looks like a nice bug so far, unsure if this has been covered by someone else already(feeling a bit lazy atm), but a quick tune up, timing check, etc. Might take care of some of that rock you talked about in the OP, best of luck!
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you so much. I have some other tools I need to buy anyway so I'll bring that coupon and see if it works out. I might see if my step brother has that coupon in one of his car magazines in case they get picky about the printed one. For the most part Harbor Freight Tools have been very good to me. Is there anything there I should absolutely stay away from? I know there is no way I'm buying a jack or jack stands from them.

And that is exactly what I plan on doing. I have a new stock Bosch ignition coil, Bosch plug wires, spark plugs, a automatic choke heater element, and a new idle cutoff valve all on order. I'm also planning on changing the 009 to a SVDA distributor once I get the funds.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright let's see how many posts we can make about Harbor Freight(I'll take the blame for this Embarassed)

As I'm thinking about it, I remember that actual ads are often in the Hot VW magazines. Not sure if you get those but anyway...

As for bum tools...I've found that the majority of tools that me and my dad have purchased for our beetle project the majority have worked just as intended. A few(such as the spring compressor we bought) needed slight modification, we just needed to chase the poorly cast threads then it worked like a dream. A few other things that we picked up were an air chisel(great for separating pan from the rest of the frame) a plethora of sanding tools abrasive materials for metal working. Only one has started to fail but it worked fine for like three months and it was only 12bucks anyways... We've also acquired a press, sandblasting cabinet, pretty much anything. HF is great for projects because their tools work as intended but don't really receive a lot of overtime "strain" that tools would get in a shop that does nothing but use the same tools over and over again. No need to get all the bells and whistles when you just don't need em. Or...something...
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, these meters are great, I've got 4 of them all for free ! Shocked
I keep one in each of my cars, and one in the house.
They are fairly accurate too, more than adequate for automotive work.

I use a Fluke 87 multimeter for work which is sent out and calibrated every 6 months, and these cheap meters are surprisingly close to the readings on my Fluke meter straight from China.

That being said you can calibrate these meters very easily, and make them pretty damn accurate, if you have a good reference voltage from a known good meter.
If you open the Cen-Tec meter up you will notice there is only one potentiometer inside, take a voltage reading with the expensive meter, and use the pot to match the value with the Cen-Tec meter.
Boom, calibrated meter !

Tracks pretty well over a large range on Volts, mA, and Ohms once you've set the adjustment.

People say Disney is the "happiest place on earth" I don't know, for me it's Harbor Freight. Smile

- Jay
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cortexgunner92 wrote:

As for bum tools...I've found that the majority of tools that me and my dad have purchased for our beetle project the majority have worked just as intended. A few(such as the spring compressor we bought) needed slight modification, we just needed to chase the poorly cast threads then it worked like a dream. A few other things that we picked up were an air chisel(great for separating pan from the rest of the frame) a plethora of sanding tools abrasive materials for metal working. Only one has started to fail but it worked fine for like three months and it was only 12bucks anyways... We've also acquired a press, sandblasting cabinet, pretty much anything. HF is great for projects because their tools work as intended but don't really receive a lot of overtime "strain" that tools would get in a shop that does nothing but use the same tools over and over again. No need to get all the bells and whistles when you just don't need em. Or...something...

When I started in the automotive field many (many) years ago, I had a shop teacher who told us everything we needed to know about tools the first week of auto shop.
Quoting from memory he said something like...

Quote:
"Tools are like silverware, you've got your knives, your forks, and your spoons.
Knives... you want to be nice sharp strong high quality stuff the best you can buy, as for your forks... it's nice if they are sharp and high quality, but a cheap fork will still get the job done it just might wear out sooner , and spoons... any damn spoon will do the same job no matter how cheap it is".


I love shopping for forks and spoons at HF and occasionally finding a knife which is priced like a fork or spoon. Smile
You were right cg92, sorry to de-rail with more HF talk, I'll stop now. Smile

Great looking Super BTW, can't wait to see more photos of the progress !

- Jay
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Concerning Harbor Freight jacks, in particular, I purchased a rolling floor jack (Pittsburgh) that has a 23 inch lift. When pulling my engine, I just put that baby at the transmission fork center and have all the room in the world to roll out my engine from the back.

I bought this gem when I noticed an old VW mechanic had one in his shop.

Works for me!

Tim
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went to Harbor Freight today. Unfortunately they wouldn't accept the multimeter coupon because it expired 4 days ago. Sad Oh well, it was only 5 bucks. I also got a 3/8'' drive Pittsburgh torque wrench with a lifetime warranty for $21.99. Good stuff.

I tried to use the multimeter to test one of the bulbs. I had it set to the 200 ohm scale but the reading I was getting kept fluctuating wildly, even going into the negatives at times. Am I doing something wrong or is that how you tell if the bulb is bad?
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walking Contradiction wrote:
.............. also got a 3/8'' drive Pittsburgh torque wrench with a lifetime warranty for $21.99. Good stuff............


Well.........um........ No, but you'll discover that soon enough! Or, you already did with your great $5 meter acting up?!? Wink

Dave
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