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A Total Noobs's 1974 Super Beetle Restoration *Help Needed*
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim, thanks for the tips. I'll pick up those plastic inserts when I replace the fuel line.

Joel, thank you for telling me that. I would have ripped that bolt out otherwise. It doesn't look factory at all. Should I get some foam to fill that gap in the doghouse or is it pretty non-essential?

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

Board Member of the Greater Toledo Volkswagen Club

Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA
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Chanbob
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walking Contradiction wrote:
Thank you very much for the link and diagram. I've added the fuel line and rubber grommets to my shopping list.

-Sam


Instead of doing a rubber grommet do what Glenn did. http://www.glenn-ring.com/resto/resto13.html
3rd set of pictures. It is just a piece of a threaded tube(You see them on house lighting) with two washers and two nuts. I also used a little bit of loctite to keep them from coming loose. Much easier to do with the engine out. I picked up an entire kit for a few bucks at True Value.

Car looks good, It looks like you are learning about yours the same way I did. Dive in head first.
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chanbob wrote:
Instead of doing a rubber grommet do what Glenn did. http://www.glenn-ring.com/resto/resto13.html
3rd set of pictures. It is just a piece of a threaded tube(You see them on house lighting) with two washers and two nuts. I also used a little bit of loctite to keep them from coming loose. Much easier to do with the engine out. I picked up an entire kit for a few bucks at True Value.

Car looks good, It looks like you are learning about yours the same way I did. Dive in head first.


Thanks, I'll look into that. It's amazing how much I've learned in the 7 months I've owned this car. I never would have imagined myself pulling the engine when I first got it.

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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Hyperspace
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel wrote:
That gap on the doghouse discharge tinware is normal, there was just foam in there originally which disintegrates after 40 years.

That bolt in the preheat surround that goes into the cylinder tin is also normal.
there is a threaded insert that clips into the tin for the bolt.

These often work loose through vibration

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There is a small piece of mising tin, that would enclose the otherr side of the pipe
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If you can't fix it with a hammer, it is an electrical fault.

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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hyperspace wrote:
There is a small piece of mising tin, that would enclose the otherr side of the pipe


Yep I need to find a pair of those.

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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Hyperspace
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

they come up in samba classifieds now and again.
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If you can't fix it with a hammer, it is an electrical fault.

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Joel
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hyperspace wrote:
Joel wrote:
That gap on the doghouse discharge tinware is normal, there was just foam in there originally which disintegrates after 40 years.

That bolt in the preheat surround that goes into the cylinder tin is also normal.
there is a threaded insert that clips into the tin for the bolt.

These often work loose through vibration

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There is a small piece of mising tin, that would enclose the otherr side of the pipe


I know, I deliberately found that pic with that piece off to show the threaded insert clipped into the cylinder tin that holds them on.
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Quick little bug, you got a Porsche motor in that?
1974 Germanlook 1303 2.5 Suba-Beetle
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I discovered that I am missing the flaps in the fan shroud, in addition to the already missing thermostat system. Luckily Tim suggested a site called awesomepowdercoat.com to get all the parts I need. In a surprising stroke of luck I learned that their shop is only an hours drive away from me in Vanlue, OH. So now I have a good semi-local place to get tinware and powder coating done. Smile In the future I'll be really needing them to do my tins, intake manifold, and exhaust system and maybe even a set of wheels.

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We're finally getting some decent weather so today I began tearing down the engine. Tomorrow were expecting 6-10'' of snow though! Shocked

The articles at vw-resource.com made this a snap.

Carburetor removed

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Pulley half and belt removed

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Fan shroud and alternator off

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Firewall tin off

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Manifold removed

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Upper engine tins removed

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And that's where I left off for today. All the hardware got individually bagged and labeled so that hopefully I can put this thing back together again.

A couple of things I noticed:

Oil cooler is missing Hoover Bit

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This spark plug wire is frayed. I've got to buy a new set.

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THICK carbon deposits. Solid as a rock too. The preheat tubes looked the same way. The carb is probably jetted way rich to compensate for the 009 flat spot. Rolling Eyes I'm going to fix that once I get my 34-PICT rebuilt.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Is this tube from the oil filler supposed to just end open above the tin? That doesn't seem right to me.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also got another order of parts in today. I got braided fuel hose, the metal engine compartment fuel line, a gland nut, the seals and clamps for the fresh air hoses, an oil sump plate, the strainer, and all new hardware for it, a flywheel o-ring, heater cables, and the cables that operate the floor vents.

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA
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Joel
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats an aftermarket filler designed for earlier engines.

73 and later dont have road draft tube like that anymore.
Get an original if you can, those aftermarket ones always leak.
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Quick little bug, you got a Porsche motor in that?
1974 Germanlook 1303 2.5 Suba-Beetle
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, thanks. I'll see if I can find one in the classifieds.

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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ROCKOROD71
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coup[le comments:
If you are going with a 34-3 carb, you are going to want an SVDA distributor. These are becoming hard to find but they are still available some places. This is the cheapest I know of: http://www.busdepot.com/043905205
Genuine Bosch. If you are sending the carb to Volksbitz you can specify to Tim that you are using an SVDA distributor. 34-3 had a few different versions and some are designed for use with a DVDA which has 2 vacuum ports. There are some drillings that are slightly different.
Carbon build up on the intake is common, yours looks better than mine, you can clean it out with a cable chucked into a hand drill to ream it out. There are other threads you can search with various methods of cleaning the heat risers using chemicals and other concoctions to loosen the carbon. I also need to do this soon.
Airhead parts sells NEW hoover bits if you can't find a good used one. I just got one and it looks pretty decent, but I can't speak to the fit yet.
The downdraft tubes you need are plentiful, I see them at swaps all the time and they are also in the classifieds. There is a rubber boot for the bottom that lets it breathe and a grommet that goes on before you install the rear tin plate to keep it from rattling. Both inexpensive, there are actually a bunch of NOS boots still available if you look: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=797544

You are doing a great job so far!
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1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI
79SuperVert wrote:

30 years from now, the next guy may not want your girlfriend, but he may want your classic car, depending on how nice you were to it.


asiab3 wrote:

Careful guys, a petulant child can grow up to be president these days.


**winter drivers: no survivors!**rust warrior**#keepbodyshopsbusy**
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yes I was planning on putting in an SVDA at the same time as my newly rebuilt carb. Thanks for the link, the other place I found those for sale at wanted $200. I will also be sure to mention that to Tim when I send mine in.

Thanks for the encouragement!

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have ordered a thermostat flaps kit, a newly manufactured German thermostat, and an OE oil filler from Awesome Powdercoat. There are 3 straight days of >40* weather next week so hopefully I will be able to degrease the engine and tins and start painting.

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sam, awesomepowdercoat also sells the Hoover Bit you're looking for.

Make sure you put that thermosta rod in the hole that is nearer to the center of the engine. The outward hole will make it so you can't adjust the thermostat properly.

Tim
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crap, I forgot about the Hoover bit. I'll have to get that too. Also Tim I just realized I may have the wrong sled tin on the thermostat side of the motor. The one I have is one solid piece with no hole to access where the thermostat would be. My memory of this is foggy but isn't it supposed to be two pieces?

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sam, on my 1974 Super, the sled tin is a two-piece affair. To get to my thermostat, I remove a few bolts and one nut, and the area is fully exposed.

You need this type of arrangement; otherwise, I'd think you'd have to remove the engine when you want to adjust the thermostat to specs.

Tim
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the muffler off today without incident, except one of the studs pulled out with the nut. I'll just put it back in with some blue locktite. However I'm terrified of taking off the heater boxes. I've been soaking them for days in liquid wrench but two of the nuts still don't want to budge with moderate pressure. I don't want to force them any further for fear of snapping them. I may just leave them alone and hope for the best.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Also, I found a cracked fin on the right cylinder head. It's the non-OEM one. Imagine that. Rolling Eyes

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA
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Walking Contradiction
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More Progress. The stubborn nut on the right heater box finally gave up its death grip and I managed to remove the heater box. Both studs pulled out though. I think I'm going to go ahead and get all new nuts and studs for these.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next I moved on to the other heater box. This one was a bit of a puzzle. My 13mm wrench was too big for the nut. I tried other metric wrenches and they didn't fit either. Turns out it was a 1/2'' nut. Even with the proper wrench it still didn't budge. Liquid Wrench wasn't helping. I needed heat, but I don't own a torch. I dug through the house and found a lighter. Sure enough, the small amount of heat from it was enough to loosen the nut. Mission accomplished. Both heater boxes and sled tins are now off the motor, without any broken studs.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now a question. I need to degrease the crankcase because it is FILTHY. How do I rinse the degreaser off without getting water into the intake/exhaust ports or in the flywheel area?

-Sam
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Samuel Hartford

Orange Bug 1974 Super Beetle

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Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA
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ROCKOROD71
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Champagne/wine corks?
Rags stuffed into the holes?
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1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI
79SuperVert wrote:

30 years from now, the next guy may not want your girlfriend, but he may want your classic car, depending on how nice you were to it.


asiab3 wrote:

Careful guys, a petulant child can grow up to be president these days.


**winter drivers: no survivors!**rust warrior**#keepbodyshopsbusy**
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View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
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