| Author |
Message |
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
 Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:03 pm Post subject: |
 |
|
Since I'm a sucker for science, why does it tell you that?  |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
| Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| lowslowauto wrote: |
| Since I'm a sucker for science, why does it tell you that? |
Because when you plug off the return, you're getting full pump pressure. This tells me that your supply side is fine, and your injectors most likely don't leak. (to double check, smell your oil for gas).
Thus, it must be that which regulates or maintains the pressure being weak or VERY maladjusted. Since you already adjusted it and it made no difference, I would say try doing that once more, and if you still can't get 28 PSI in the system, change the regulator.
Make sense?
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 8:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| The oil does smell little like gas, however I guess that can be expected since the amount of turn over attempts. I am assuming I am looking for a bosch FPR are there any other options? Type1 fi, do they function for the type 3? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
| Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| lowslowauto wrote: |
| The oil does smell little like gas, however I guess that can be expected since the amount of turn over attempts. I am assuming I am looking for a bosch FPR are there any other options? Type1 fi, do they function for the type 3? |
No, L-Jet and D-Jet FPRs are different animals. Let me see if I can scare something up.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 11:56 am Post subject: |
|
|
Pulled this from my square! Both ends sitting in on blaster! Anything else I should do? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
| Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 9:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| lowslowauto wrote: |
Pulled this from my square! Both ends sitting in on blaster! Anything else I should do? |
Replace it. Order up a new one. Ray G. says those are known to catch rust flakes, and that causes them to fail. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:15 am Post subject: |
|
|
Problem after problem. Trying to replace the fpr and the nut that holds into into the tin is stuck so tightly the whole fpr just spins! I've soaked it in blaster for a day, still no luck! Any ideas?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
|
| Posted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
You can use a grinder/rotary file on your drill to cut the nut until it comes loose. It looks like you need a new firewall too. Show us a picture of the whole firewall as we probably have one to sell, but there were a bunch of different model firewalls.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 8:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
After two weeks of it sitting in PD Blaster it came off with my fingers!
Got it replaced with the one from Mike, and adjusted to 30 psi. Did the oil change and got it started however it still won't hold idle. I have to flutter the throttle to keep it going, and really has no throttle response. Some intake pops etc.
You can hear it a little bit here:
Link
And double checked valves and points all seem to be good. Could the timing be off 180 degress? Noticed the mark on the distributor is at the bottom...is that correct?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
| Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 12:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| lowslowauto wrote: |
After two weeks of it sitting in PD Blaster it came off with my fingers!
Got it replaced with the one from Mike, and adjusted to 30 psi. Did the oil change and got it started however it still won't hold idle. I have to flutter the throttle to keep it going, and really has no throttle response. Some intake pops etc.
And double checked valves and points all seem to be good. Could the timing be off 180 degress? Noticed the mark on the distributor is at the bottom...is that correct?
|
If that's where your #1 is pointing at TDC, then it's off. Verify that your plug wires are in the correct order on the distributor cap as well.
Personally, I'd bring the engine up to #1 (watch the timing mark on the fan), then verify you're there, but checking the #2 valves (exhaust valve rocker will be tight and the spring compressed), then see where your rotor is pointing (should be very close to the line on the distributor body). I only say that, as trying to time off of #3 is easy to do, and can mess things up.  But, if that's where the rotor ends up pointing (on the line), then that's #1 plug wire, and you'll need to move the wires into their correct position. I hope this helps.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 10:45 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks bob.
I replaced a weeping return line, a couple air lines I hadn't done yet. No change!
I then ensured leads were going to the right spot, seems to be correct. 1432 firing order, w the rotor moving clockwise. Here is the rotor at tdc on cylinder 1. You can see it adjacent to the distributor mark, the points open, and the valves on 1 closed (allowing for the 0.15mm spring play).
Every time the points open (90 degree turns) is when I should go around and adjust the valves correct?
I also noticed the heat exchangers are rotten and barely hanging on the exhaust. Could this cause low back pressure? Relating to crappy idle? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Little update: checked plugs again, looked a tad rich. Used a straw to find tdc of all cylinders. All valves were set properly, while at top dead all other cylinder exhaust valve open. Dunno what else to check! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| lowslowauto wrote: |
| Little update: checked plugs again, looked a tad rich. Used a straw to find tdc of all cylinders. All valves were set properly, while at top dead all other cylinder exhaust valve open. Dunno what else to check! |
Then you might want to turn the key on, let the fuel pressure build to 28 psi, then try to start the car. It should start.
This is kind of the problem I was having with FI (but opposite). In my case, as it warmed up, it starting running richer and richer, until it stalled out. It would however, restart right back up. Mine, it turned out, needed a voltage regulator. Everybody thought the problem was in the FI, but it wasn't. I was getting 12.2 at the battery (not running), and fresh started it was putting out 14.3 volts, then it starting dropping until 4 miles later it was only producing 13.3 volts. After 5 miles you were down to 12.6 volts. Not good. The longer you ran it, the less voltage you had. Replaced the Voltage Regulator, and everything was good. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 8:25 am Post subject: |
|
|
Fuel pressure only builds to 20psi with the key on ignition. No matter my adjustment it won't go above that. However when I turn it over, it jumps to 31. Ideas?
Also used some carb cleaner to check for air leaks, and cleaned the intake flap. Started up then with a very high idle but once the cleaner burned off it died again |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:04 am Post subject: |
|
|
Sounds like a lack of fuel and "running out of gas". Are your gas tank & gas filter both clean?
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:54 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Filter was changed 3 yrs ago but I have an extra one sitting here. I can def swap that in. Dunno about the tank? How would I go about checking that? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 10:14 am Post subject: |
|
|
Unbolt the supply spigot from the bottom and drain the gas thru a cotton t shirt. Pull the tank out and reuse the gas several times to wash out/filter out any crud inside. If you pull the sending unit you can see down in there with a flashlight. ISPWest sells new filter socks for the tank if you need one.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 11:39 am Post subject: |
|
|
| lowslowauto wrote: |
Fuel pressure only builds to 20psi with the key on ignition. No matter my adjustment it won't go above that. However when I turn it over, it jumps to 31. Ideas?
Also used some carb cleaner to check for air leaks, and cleaned the intake flap. Started up then with a very high idle but once the cleaner burned off it died again |
With the key on your pump runs for a couple seconds then quits. Your fuel pressure running is what's important. Dial it back to 28 where it belongs.
Your carb cleaner experiment indicates a vacuum leak.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lowslowauto
Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2008
Posts: 425
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Tram---should've been specific about the carb cleaner. I sprayed on all of the air lines and it made no difference. But when into the intake it started and held for 30 secs
Last edited by lowslowauto on Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:27 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| lowslowauto wrote: |
| Tram---should've been specific about the carb cleaner. I sprayed on all of the air lines and it made no difference. But when into the intake it started and held for 30 mins. |
I'm wondering if it sealed something in the air box.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
