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CB Street Eliminators on Daily 2276
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mikebohr
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good thought, John. I'll definitely keep that in mind. I tend to take things very slow anyway. Turbo might be in the far future. Here are a few pics of my Mofoco 050's. They are on my 1914 right now and running beautifully! I still plan on trying out the CB Street Eliminators on my 2276 build, but may end up using these instead.

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mikebohr
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I'd give an update. I'm definitely going with the CB Eliminators but now I'm in the market for a distributor. I love my CB Magnaspark 2 on my 1914 and like the fact that I can get the dizzy, wires, and coil for $200. I'm also considering a Pertronix Billet Flamethrower setup. Any input would be appreciated.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you might already know the answer since you already love it.and having 2 of a kind can come in handy.
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mikebohr
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Guys,

I'm moving at the speed of government on this build, but thought I'd give an update. Here's my adjusted 2276 build sheet:

AS41 Case - 94X82mm Stroker Clearanced, w/ Jaycee Full Flow Extension
DPR 82mm Crank & 12 lb. Flywheel
Mahle 94mm Cylinders
Mahle 94mm Stroker B Pistons (Balanced & Dished by Gene Berg – 15cc’s)
Engle FK-10 Cam
Bugpack Lightweight Racing Lifters
CB 5.4” H-Beam Super Race Rods
CB Street Eliminator Heads w/ Ultra Mag Port (46 x 38mm)
1 3/4" Merged Header w/ A1 Phat Boy
Pertronix Billet Flamethrower w/ Ignitor 2
44 Weber IDF's (for now)

I plan on 9.5:1 compression on premium pump gas.

Any final thoughts on this?
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madmike
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope your running 38Vents in them 44's Wink and a huge sump to keep it alive,Madmike
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those Street Es are called "CNC Ported Street Eliminators with Competition Eliminator Components", and your combo is not suited for those heads as listed. Idk how many parts you've purchased yet, but for one thing you're undercammed. With those heads and Racemaster Valves, they'll bind around 1.00", which should tell you that they're meant for serious camshafts. You need a FK87/44 (or similar) and at least 11:1 on pump gas to even be in the game.

I've never built anything to run in the 8,000 rpm range, but I think you need to swap your rings too. I think the factory rings are good till around 7500.

The carbs may work ok with the biggest vents available, but tuning might be easier with a larger body. I think an engine like that will be begging for a 42 vent though.
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mikebohr
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the responses. I do plan to take the heads to CB to change out the springs. Anthony over there said they are a bit much for my build. I have Total Seal rings for the build as well. I am picking up some 38 vents as well. Eventually would like to get some 48 IDF's or IDA's. Good thoughts though. Appreciate the feedback.
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vwracerdave
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a difference between a Bugpack S/E heads and the CB S/E heads. I do believe Clyde used the Bugpack version.
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Howard 111
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a set of SE heads on my drag car. Great heads to P&P for the really high RPMs. But they are not for the street. Count the cooling fins on a SE head, and a stock casting.
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downsbs
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jfats808 wrote:
Lotta head for a k8 imo. That thing is screaming for a k10 or 86c. All your stuff is high quality so it can take much more. If the other engine is running and it good service, leave it alone. Nice heads.


I agree 100%, I have a very similar combo, almost identical and I had sn FK8 in it and after lmost 100 miles pulled it apart to put the FK10 in. Waaaaay better now, more power through the entire range. I highly recommend putting a FK10 in initially.
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downsbs
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikebohr wrote:
Here's another thought as to why I'm going with the FK8. I have a turbo that'd I'd like to try out in the future with this 2276 build. The FK8 would be a better fit since it's a lower compression cam than the FK10 or 86c. Any thoughts on this?


Oops, missed this post. I dont know enough about turbos to have any true input. Sorry.
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mikebohr
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I went back and forth on the K8 and K10 and I've come to closure on that.
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe if you change out the springs to a VW size spring, you'll have to remove the valves as well, because they're longer than typical VW valves. That's why the bind is higher. I believe CB doesn't sell a valve, or at least list a valve that's regular length and 46 or 38, so you'll have to cough up some Manley $ on top of those heads. Then when you do get them all together, and install them, you're engine's gonna beg for that turbo every time you start it up coz those huge ports are going to be robbing all airspeed. Maybe your smaller carbs will help out in that dept.
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mikebohr
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like I'll definitely need to take them to CB to get some input before my build. They've always hooked me up. We'll see what they say when I lay out my plan. Thanks guys!
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Guys,

It's been awhile since I last posted on my 2276 build. I'm back at it and have updated my build sheet. Question about titanium valves and reciprocating weight. I'm doing all I can to reduce my reciprocating and valve train weight. I'm researching more about titanium valves on a daily driver (4 miles a day with no freeway). What are the pros and cons? Any input would be helpful.

Here's my current build sheet...

VW AS41 Stroker Case
DPR 82mm Crank & 12lb. Flywheel
Wiseco 94mm Pistons (Dished 15cc)
Titanium/Casidium Wrist Pins (72 g)
Mahle Cylinders
CB 5.4” H-Beam Race Rods
Thorsten Lightweight Lifters (56 g)
Engle FK-10 Camshaft
Pauter 1.4 Rockers
ACN HD Aluminum Pushrods
Dual 48 DRLA's
CB Street Eliminators w/ Comp Componets (46 x 38mm)
Titanium Retainers
Titanium Valves???
1 3/4" Merged Exhaust
A1 Stainless Muffler
9.5 - 10:1 Compression
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Retainers ok for tit. But I wouldnt chance tit valves for even that short duration of miles. I think youd be one of the first guys to brave them on a Streeter!
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

XR310.....Steve Long Cam. I like it. I like it a lot.
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm building my ghia motor with ti valves, I say go for it! Also if you wan't to dyno it before you put it in the car let me know
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ALB
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jfats808 wrote:
Retainers ok for tit. But I wouldnt chance tit valves for even that short duration of miles. I think youd be one of the first guys to brave them on a Streeter!


Aren't titanium valves in use in the latest Corvettes these days? Any one know how they're doing it?
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mikebohr
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really just want to know the advantages and disadvantages of running titanium valves on a streeter. My Bug is my daily driver and my round trip commute is about 4 miles with stop lights and stop signs. Very rarely on the freeway but would love to take it to the track every once in awhile.
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