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Finally own an air cooled!
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Euroimage
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:24 pm    Post subject: Finally own an air cooled! Reply with quote

New here, been lurking and reading up for a while. Just picked up a '66 today from a close friend (been waiting to buy this from him forever!) I plan on stripping what's left of the rattle can paint job, and slowly bring the car back to glory. The interior needs some love, the owner before my friend thought it was a wise idea to put civic seats in Rolling Eyes
I am not new to vws (run a watercooled parts company) but this is my first opportunity with the air cooled crowd. Got plenty to learn
Onto pics:
Past cars:
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Also had a stock mk3 golf for a while. Currently still have the mk4 (in stock form) and daily driving my gfs car:
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Sorry for being a bit pic intensive, but there's my intro and this will shortly turn into a slow build for this:

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Looking forward to the journey ahead. Go easy on an air cooled noob Surprised
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Maxoceanblue
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like it. Get matching white walls for the front and that'll be real nice.
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drs1023
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ditch the stinger, add an engine cover, and the other two whitewalls. That'd be pretty "glorious" in its own right. Nice car.
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bugandxbandme
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the stinger fits it:)
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drs1023 wrote:
Ditch the stinger, add an engine cover, and the other two whitewalls. That'd be pretty "glorious" in its own right. Nice car.


X2. Stingers piss off neighbors, say "look at me" (including to cops), and burn legs and kids' faces.

All noise and negligible (if any) performance improvement.
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Euroimage
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The paint is faded a lot more since that photo was taken (few years ago)
Stinger is going. I believe he has the other 2 portawalls in storage to give me.
I also don't plan on running it "trunk less" the interior needs the most love and will be more than likely where I'll be starting.
For the price I couldn't resist a fun project/opportunity. My daughter wants to learn how to work on cars (been in the garage with me her whole life watching). This is a perfect chance to have a real long term project with her
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Ozy's VW
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best of luck my friend
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Euroimage
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ozy's VW wrote:
Best of luck my friend

thanks!

So i havent updated this in the month that ive owned the car. still finishing some stuff up and organizing photos and so on.
I do not plan on turning this into a full on restoration, just removing nonsense the past owners put on the car and driving it.
Pics before i got it:
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Day i got it:
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quickly got the decklid for it
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New clutch cable was desperately needed:
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Steering wheel needs to go
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exhaust removed decklid not fully installed
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Had an exhaust stud break while removing the exhaust which kinda snowballed what happened next to the car. Could not remove the stud for the life of me. Tried welding on a nut, screw extractors etc etc and nothing worked, so motor was dropped and the head was taken to a machine shop to get it drilled out. I will update this again once i have the rest of the photos uploaded and organized
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try tightening those nuts first ever so slightly and then see if they will loosen. If you feel you are really not going to get off one of those nuts, just use a nut breaker or hammer and chisel to cut thru one side of the nut. Really do not need to completely cut thru the nuts.

Once you are installing the new muffler use copper Toyota exhaust nuts and anti-seize to prevent future rusted nuts there.
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Euroimage
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Try tightening those nuts first ever so slightly and then see if they will loosen. If you feel you are really not going to get off one of those nuts, just use a nut breaker or hammer and chisel to cut thru one side of the nut. Really do not need to completely cut thru the nuts.

Once you are installing the new muffler use copper Toyota exhaust nuts and anti-seize to prevent future rusted nuts there.


it wasnt the nut but the actual stud itself. it snapped in half and all the usual methods did not work. i kind of expected to have issues like this, oh well its fixed now
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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FYI..there is a 1966vwbeetle.com website that might help in addition to this . Not as good as samba ; but every little bit helps
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don't_bug_me
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be interested in that steering wheel
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raramury
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah if you want i'll take the exhaust off your hands Very Happy Very Happy
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Euroimage
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't_bug_me wrote:
Might be interested in that steering wheel

Once i get a stock wheel itll be for sale
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Euroimage
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raramury wrote:
yeah if you want i'll take the exhaust off your hands Very Happy Very Happy

stinger will be going, but might hang onto the header in case i dont like the new exhaust.
will try and update later with more progress photos.
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Euroimage
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grandpa pete wrote:
FYI..there is a 1966vwbeetle.com website that might help in addition to this . Not as good as samba ; but every little bit helps

Thanks! I've been on there a few time, had some good info on what i was searching for
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Euroimage wrote:

it wasnt the nut but the actual stud itself. it snapped in half and all the usual methods did not work. i kind of expected to have issues like this, oh well its fixed now


Yes, that is SOP for almost any newbie. Trick is loosening the nut up first before shearing off the stud.
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Euroimage
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Euroimage wrote:

it wasnt the nut but the actual stud itself. it snapped in half and all the usual methods did not work. i kind of expected to have issues like this, oh well its fixed now


Yes, that is SOP for almost any newbie. Trick is loosening the nut up first before shearing off the stud.


the nut was loose before the stud broke.
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Euroimage
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so the po had originally painted the inside of the drivers side headlight checkerboard, so i repainted it black (other side was already black)
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mudflaps removed
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portawalls removed
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glovebox stops added, yay functional glovebox door
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motor dropped
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picked up a stock shifter and other misc bushings
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stud fixed
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and this is where ill end for now, good bye chrome nonsene
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don't_bug_me
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

but but chrome wins races Wink when the other guy is trying to pass you he gets blinded and runs off the road Twisted Evil Laughing

Chrome is just more things to clean, there's very little on mine, what was there was previouly installed, and I'm not spending money to replace it.
Keep up the good work!
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