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Sallittjob's 1968cc Build
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

post a picture of the seals, cooler, and case you are using, so we can view possible errors. Wrong seals is a common and easy mistake to make.
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sallittjob
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got around to taking some picture of the oil cooler seals in question. The new cooler is mounted to the engine so I took a picture of the old case which has the same sized oil galleries. The new case is an AK AS21 case the old case was the original AE AS41. Also, I took a picture of the seal that I used in all four places. I took a picture of the old oil cooler where you can clearly see no bosses present. In the third to last picture of the new one (mounted) you can see the boss on the bottom of the cooler.

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57' Beetle Deluxe
1192cc SP

71' Super Beetle
1968cc DP

73' 412 Sedan
1679cc FI

75' Westy
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The seals look correct, but you are missing your Hoover Bit.
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75smith
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

seals do look correct, I would expect the seals to compress a little, and that the cooler not actually contact the mount-because then all the pressure is on the bosses, not the seals-that would cause a leak

just double check you did 60in-lbs, not 80in-lbs and call it good
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sallittjob
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds good, hoover bit is on order.
Thanks Guys
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sallittjob
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys so I have a problem.... I've got everything back together and I'm trying to prime the oil system before attempting to start the motor for the first time. I have a full flow system installed with a cast iron 26mm pump set at zero lash. I pack some petroleum jelly inside the pump prior to assembly. I removed the inlet line to the oil filter adapter and cranked the engine about 5 times and didn't get a drop of oil out the line. Next I poured some oil down the line (output of the pump) and tried again a couple times...No dice. Finally I removed the outlet fitting from the pump and had my buddy hit the starter while I looked. I saw the PJ move out a little after a couple bursts but no oil.

I gave up for the night but now I don't know what to do next. I'm almost positive the pickup tube isn't hitting the screen (I took the plate off yesterday and it had a good amount of clearance (running a deep sump).

I can't get the cover plate off the pump as the crank pulley tin is in the way. I was thinking of trying to hand crank the engine in reverse while feeding oil down the pump outlet line. Is this a good idea?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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ALB
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've got jelly creating a seal at the gears and air in the intake tube before the pump. I would do what you're thinking; hand crank it in reverse while feeding oil down the flull-flow tube until you hear the "burp" of air clearing the intake tube and then turning it over clockwise until oil pushes out of the line so you're sure the pump is primed).
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sallittjob
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Success! I removed the AN fitting from the outlet of the pump and threaded an NPT barb in it's place. Ran a piece of rubber hose and shoved a reducer attachment on my shopvac into the hose. I turned the vacuum on and let it pull for a minute or so (did this twice). Second time around I saw a few drops of oil come out the hose. I disconnected the fitting and spun the crank by hand and oil poured out!. Pulled the pressure sensor and cranked the engine until oil spurted out.

One problem down...So next I hooked up the fuel pump (mechanical) and cranked it a little more to fill the carbs. What do you know the pump leaks fuel so I had to stop again. I'm going to try and get a new pump tomorrow and hopefully post a video of it running shortly after.

Thanks everybody for the help!
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sallittjob
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wanted to share a couple progress pics from my build. Hopefully I can start it for the first time tomorrow night. Thanks to everyone who's contributed to my threads for sharing your knowledge. I've been dreaming about building this motor for several years and I couldn't have done it without this forum and it's contributors.

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RHough
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sallittjob wrote:

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Is that an A-1?

Exhaust questions for you.
Who's flanged heater boxes?
What diameter tubes?
Do the #2 & #4 header tubes give clear access to for the heater air tubes?

Did you go with IDF's?

I'm getting a 1968 (92x74) too so I'll be paying close attention to how yours comes together.

Cheers
Randy
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sallittjob
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RHough wrote:


Is that an A-1?

Exhaust questions for you.
Who's flanged heater boxes?
What diameter tubes?
Do the #2 & #4 header tubes give clear access to for the heater air tubes?

Did you go with IDF's?

I'm getting a 1968 (92x74) too so I'll be paying close attention to how yours comes together.

Cheers
Randy


Hey Randy,

1. Yes, it's an A1 sidewinder header.
2.They are the CB 1 1/2 flanged heater boxes.
3.The header is 1 1/2.
4. There isn't a lot of room for the heater tubes. I had to loosen the connection between the sled tins and the heater boxes then rotate them to install the tube. Rotated them back once installed and now it's good to go.
5. I rebuilt a set of DLRA 40s for this engine. I'll post some pics of it installed in the car with the carbs on when I get some time.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sallittjob wrote:

5. I rebuilt a set of DLRA 40s for this engine. I'll post some pics of it installed in the car with the carbs on when I get some time.


Thanks for the prompt response. I chose 1 1/2" for my system also. Decided on a 38mm CSP Python System.

IIRC the DLRA's have a 34mm venturi? I can't wait to find out what jetting you end up with.

I'm counting on you for my 1968 fix for the next 6 months while I'm away from my car. Smile
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sallittjob
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The venturis are removable so there are several sizes which could be installed on a set of DRLAs. I don't remember what size mine were off the top of my head, I'll take a look in my notebook and post back with that info later.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, I need HELP getting this thing running right.

I've been chasing what I think is a manifold leak for over a week now. I must have taken the manifold/carb off the engine and reinstalled five times now. Basically when it idles (DLRA 40s, 34mm vents, 60/140/180) it wants to die unless I give it gas. When I spray carb cleaner at the base of the 3/4 manifold the engine speed increases a good amount.

I ordered new fiber gaskets from aircooled.net and used a dremel to match them to the manifolds. Also, I checked the manifolds with a granite surface plate at work and lapped them perfectly flat. They aren't hitting the tins, and the gaskets lay perfectly flat. I tightened them down and it still leaks.

I hooked up the wideband and it says I'm idling around 19:1 AFR. The weird thing is the idle speed increases the most when I back out the mixture screws fully on the 1/2 side and screw them almost all the way in on the 3/4 side... I'd think if I had a vacuum leak on the 3/4 side I'd need a richer mixture on that side and leaner on the other, right?

Please help me out here, I have no idea why the manifold won't seal and this is driving me nuts.
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1679cc FI

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1800cc FI
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure the center section isn't bottoming out on the end casting?

To be sure, install the intake with the intake boots OFF. Make sure the center section can float a little bit.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dykem your intake port base and mount your manifolds alone on it. Tighten it
down and wait a few min. While youre waiting pull your idle jets and check they arent clogged. It feels like something simple.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
Are you sure the center section isn't bottoming out on the end casting?

To be sure, install the intake with the intake boots OFF. Make sure the center section can float a little bit.


Hey John, What boots are you talking about? This is a Type 1 motor (Dual DRLA 40s).

jfats808, I like your idea to use Dykem to identify the leak. When I set the manifold on the head (without the gasket) there is no identifiable rock, everything seems fine. I can't see how the idle jets could be clogged as I just blew carb cleaner through them.

I forgot to mention that I went to 54 idles and the thing won't even idle. I had to put the 60s back in to even work on it.
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1192cc SP

71' Super Beetle
1968cc DP

73' 412 Sedan
1679cc FI

75' Westy
1800cc FI
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RHough
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sallittjob wrote:
[email protected] wrote:
Are you sure the center section isn't bottoming out on the end casting?

To be sure, install the intake with the intake boots OFF. Make sure the center section can float a little bit.


Hey John, What boots are you talking about? This is a Type 1 motor.

jfats808, I like your idea to use Dykem to identify the leak. When I set the manifold on the head (without the gasket) there is no identifiable rock, everything seems fine. I can't see how the idle jets could be clogged as I just blew carb cleaner through them.

I forgot to mention that I went to 54 idles and the thing won't even idle. I had to put the 60s back in to even work on it.


You have two DLRA 40's right? John is describing a single carb manifold.
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sallittjob
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotcha. Yeah I'm running dual DRLA 40s.
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73' 412 Sedan
1679cc FI

75' Westy
1800cc FI
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just for kicks, make sure theres a clean hole thru. Magnifying glass or up in the light. Drlas are a different animal. Seems they do like a bigger baseline jet then webers. Generally I use the 1.5 modifier for idle sizing for break in/initial. Then I dial down or up as the engine requires it during the testing portion in the vehicle amd under load. Sometimes I have to hand drill what the engine wants.
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2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

Rockstar Suzuki wrote:

You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick

You can always learn something new, even from a fool.
Check your oil levels routinely!
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