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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
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Location: Holland, MI
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Vanapplebomb
Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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Vanapplebomb
Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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Vanapplebomb
Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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Brian
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Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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 Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 3:20 am Post subject: |
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see, take the boot and flip it upside down.
also, this picture is a prime example of what always gets me. A under powered motor can turn those big ass tires pretty quickly with some small axle/cv joints
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Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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mtnroads
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Joined: December 06, 2006
Posts: 403
Location: Minkler, CA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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I poked a hole in my case & broke off oil filter mount, while playing out at Apex. No skid plate, can you say dumbass!  Anyway i still have the ehauxhst that we made. late model squarish ports, and empi stinger. I have built a T1 1776 for baja, so i dont need it. pm me if interested.
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mtnroads
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Joined: December 06, 2006
Posts: 403
Location: Minkler, CA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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here's a pic, gota love that T4 power! 
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pax
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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Ouch! No skid plate can be the breaks for just about any engine. Something similar must have happened the the engine I got in a previous life. One of the exhaust stud bosses was cracked. I ended up bringing it to a machine shop so they could weld it back up, drill, and tap it for the exhaust stud. They did a pretty good job. Nice to know some VW guys in the trade. 
Previously cracked off boss. Good as new.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021 |
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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winchin73blazinbaja
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Joined: June 26, 2014
Posts: 648
Location: Michigan
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| Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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you and your type four power plants  |
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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Vanapplebomb
Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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Vanapplebomb
Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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Vanapplebomb
Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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Brian
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Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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| Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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So, not reading any other thread:
T4 to 113 application requires no mod to the input shaft?
I know that T4 on 002 requires a shorter input shaft.[/quote]
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Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5417
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 12:50 am Post subject: |
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VW bug/bus transmissions do not need to have the input shaft length changed.
Short (bug and pre 72 bus) or long (72 and later bus) will both work. T4 engines have the pilot pressed into the crankshaft, which is farther back than the pilot in a T1 gland nut. That is why Transmissions original equipped with T4 engines have longer input shafts. If the transmission has a short input shaft, the pilot bearing needs to be moved forward so that it sits flush with the face of the flywheel. This will allow it to fully support the short input shafts. Sometimes it fits well in the flywheel, other times the flywheel needs to be opened up slightly so that the bearing can be pressed into it. Not a huge deal though. That is the only modification necessary.
Do note that Porsche 914 flywheels have the ring gear situated a little different and thus will not engage well with starters in bug/bus transmissions. Best thing to do is replace the flywheel with one from a 411/412 or bus
T4 flywheels let you run larger clutches. They have more holding power than factory T1 clutches, don't wear out as fast as aftermarket high pressure T1 clutches, and do not increase the pedal effort any. 210mm and 215mm clutches fit all 12 volt bell housings with zero modifications. The large 228mm clutches often have minor interference with 12 volt bug bell housings. They can be carefully clearanced, but I wouldn't bother. No issues what so ever with a 6 rib bus transmission, but they fit well on pretty much all bus bell housings. That said, if you can fit it, the 228mm clutch is a darn good clutch. Gobs of holding power and lasts as long as any stock clutch.
Not a whole lot to making them fit. Just be aware of what size clutch you have and if your input shaft is long or short.
Aftermarket conversion flywheels are available with a pilot pressed into the center and use the small 200mm. I wouldn't bother though. Used T4 flywheels are inexpensive. Resurfacing used flywheels at an automotive machine shop shouldn't cost much more than $30. And, unless you are doing some hardcore racing or running at some wicked rpm, the stock cast iron flywheels are plenty durable. Some of the 228mm ones are forged and will hold up to darn near about anything. T4 engines never really caught on in America, but they are the go to street engine in Europe for performance. A lot of those guys are running around 250hp natural aspirated ponies. Add +100hp with a turbo to that figure. Many of them run lightened stock flywheels. If they can get away with it without them coming apart, pretty much everyone should be good to go with factory flywheels.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb
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