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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76935
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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 Posted: Tue Oct 22, 2013 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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| Jrbrass wrote: |
OK, It's a brand new Solex H 30/31, IND BRAS, Dist has a JF4, then an arrow to the left, has a number of 0 231 178 009, then lower on the left is 085.
I do not what size of cam or make, but you can hear it.
Hope that helps, I read it in the dark with a flash light, thanks for your help. |
I ran a bone stock 1600DP that had a Solex H30/31PICT and found it ran best with a 019 mechanical.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
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Aussiebug
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002
Posts: 2162
Location: Adelaide Australia
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| Posted: Tue Oct 22, 2013 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Jrbrass wrote: |
| So, if I am reading all the comments right, sounds like adjust my timing to 30 or 32 advance first (already tried adjusting carb), then adjust the accelerator pump, maybe a slightly larger main jet. If I adjust the timing to 30 or 32 degrees advance, will that be too hot? I just got a advance timing light, so turn the knob to 30 or 32, then rev it up, turn dist where the line lines up with the crack of the crank case, right? If it is already set to 10 degrees, then I just need to go 20 more? I really don't have a tach, this can be done by ear, right? Sorry, too early not thinking clearly. :-) Thank you all for your help, very much appreciated. |
Try it this way.
1. Use the 009 you have now. Set it to 30BTDC at 3000+ rpm (the 009 comes "all in" at about 25-2600 so we use 3000+ just to be certain). But you have to be sure where your TDC mark is - there are at least four different stock pulleys with different markings on them. If you are not sure, pull the right side rocker cover off, and turn the engine so both valves are loose (shut) for No1 cylinder (front right cylinder). Put a straw down No1 plug hole and feel for the piston top. Rock the engine back and forwards till you get the centre of the "null" spot - the piston will not move for a couple of degrees when you rock the engine over TDC, and you want the middle of that. Once you have that spot, look at the pulley marks. Hopefully you'll have one of them at TDC and then you KNOW which to use. If not, email me (web site below) and I'll help you find the right marks. Now set your light to 30 degrees and set the timing (or make a mark 46.5mm to the right of TDC around the pulley rim if you prefer to use your timing light that way).
2. Check the jetting of the H30/31 - they usually come out of the box with very lean jetting (an emissions thing) and a too-rich idle jet so it wont stall at lower revs. Makes the engine hard to tune, and when using a 009, you HAVE to set the carb on the rich side to compensate some for the lack of vacuum advance. You need to check the jetting because it could have anything in it now (POs experiments). For a 1600 with a 009, you can try a 55 idle, 127.5 (might need a 130) main jet, a 125 air correction jet and a 65 power jet. That should get you close. The idle and power jets are interchangeable so you might be able to use one for the other, if the sizes are right. Now set the accel pump to max squirt and make sure that the squirt goes straight down the throat - not splashing on the way down. Twist the delivery tube a little if needed. For info, the idle and power jets look like brass bolt heads in the right side of the carb. The idle jet sits in a protrusion (channel) heading to the bottom of the carb, and it's often angles towards the rear of the car - that should help you identify them. The main jet is in the bottom of the float bowl. The air correction jet is vertical - between the float bowl and the throat - you have to take the top off the carb to get at it - about an inch long as it has an emulsion (mixing tube) attached under it. As posted earlier, the complete tuneup guide for any bug using one of the "two adjusting screw" carbs like yours is on my web site at www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html
3. Drive it - hopefully it will run OK for you.
Yes - you are usually better off with a vacuum distributor- SVDA (set up to run with the carb you are using) but the method above will hopefully get you enjoying the car on the road, rather than getting frustrated with it in the driveway.
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Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com |
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Jrbrass
Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Scottsdale
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| Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:30 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for all your replies, it's very much appreciated. Love all the VW people wanting to help, what a great group. OK, took off the brand new 30/31 pict carb out of frustration. Wanted to see what size main jet was in it. Pulled it out and it only had a 120 in it. So, sounds like from you all I need a larger size main jet. Would you step it up to a 125, 127.5 or a 130. Not sure what size the other jets are, is the size stamped on them as well? So, seeing my main jet is only a 120, what combination size of jets should I use. Please use the proper term for the jets, I'm a newbie. Will be trying to get the jets you guys recommend on Monday. Once again, that all of you for caring.  |
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Jrbrass
Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Scottsdale
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| Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Different VW repair shop is telling me to get rid of my 30pict and put the two Dual 40's mm back on. That the Dual 40's can and will solve the problem. I'm going to try changing the jets first as suggested here in the forum, but if it doesn't work would you guys go back to the two Dual 40's setup due to the oversize cam? |
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drs1023
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2011
Posts: 1682
Location: Georgia, USA
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| Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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Don't assume what lift you have onto the camshaft. Can youmeasure the lift on the cam? You can almost nail it by measuring the total travel of an intake and/ or exhaust valve- try just one first as dual pattern VW cams are not so common. Set (by magnet) a dial indicator on a fully closed valve. Temporarily close the lash to zero so there's no slop. Zero the indicatorand open that valve fully & slowly noting the highest reading.
Now call a reputable camshaft company and give them this info along with your rocker ratio. Then you will be a little more knowledgable as to whether the twin 40's are adequate. |
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Aussiebug
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002
Posts: 2162
Location: Adelaide Australia
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| Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:21 am Post subject: |
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| Jrbrass wrote: |
| Would you step it up to a 125, 127.5 or a 130. Not sure what size the other jets are, is the size stamped on them as well? So, seeing my main jet is only a 120, what combination size of jets should I use. Please use the proper term for the jets, I'm a newbie. Will be trying to get the jets you guys recommend on Monday. Once again, that all of you for caring. :-) |
Read my post above - it's all in there. The jets come in steps of 2.5, so you get 120, 122.5, 125, 127.5, 130 and so on. Each step changes the fuel flow by about 2%. The number is the actual hole size in mm, so a 127.5 has a hole 1.275mm in diameter, and a 55 idle jet has a hole size of 0.55mm.
The (very tiny) numbers are stamped on each jet.
_________________
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com |
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Jrbrass
Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Scottsdale
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| Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 6:13 am Post subject: |
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| drs1023 wrote: |
Don't assume what lift you have onto the camshaft. Can youmeasure the lift on the cam? You can almost nail it by measuring the total travel of an intake and/ or exhaust valve- try just one first as dual pattern VW cams are not so common. Set (by magnet) a dial indicator on a fully closed valve. Temporarily close the lash to zero so there's no slop. Zero the indicatorand open that valve fully & slowly noting the highest reading.
Now call a reputable camshaft company and give them this info along with your rocker ratio. Then you will be a little more knowledgable as to whether the twin 40's are adequate. |
I just want to drive it around town, not race it or take it off road or even the dunes. Just looking for a leisurely drive where it doesn't bog down when I'm trying to accelerate. If it would run better putting back the two dual 40mm carbs, then I'll do it. Just want to use whatever setup will work the best with the cam that's in it. No, I do not know anything about the cam or who made it, all I know is supposedly the cam is creating the flat spot/hesitation. That is what I was told. |
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Jrbrass
Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Scottsdale
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| Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:09 pm Post subject: |
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| Alright, I contacted Doug's Bugs and Bunnies in Mesa AZ concerning my problem. They immediately gave me a 140 main jet and a 60 idle jet. I put them in and now the hesitation is practically gone. Wow, what a difference. Now I can at least drive it around in the nice weather and enjoy it. Going to take it in to them in about a week or so to have them fine tune it. So, the main jet I took out was a standard 120, put in a 140. The standard idle jet was a 50, put in a 60. I wanted to post this in case it helps someone else down the line. Thank you all for all your help and suggestions. |
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Jrbrass
Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Scottsdale
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| Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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| I finally found a shop that specializes in VW Sand Rails. Right away, they told me to go back to my two Dual 40mm carbs. They explained to me about the jetting process and that I should have never gone with the Pic 30 carb. Well, I picked it up from the shop and all I can say is wow. What a difference. It runs so much better, no hesitation at all from start to finish. No hesitation accelerating from first and down shifting and picking it back up from second. Now my Sand Rail gets up and moves, I didn't realize it then, but it was a dog with no power with the pic 30 carb. Putting the two dual 40mm carbs, it practically took out the oversized cam. Anyone that is having a problem or needs a great shop with great mechanics, I would recommend Montz Auto Renditions in Phoenix, Arizona. After they were through with it, it was like getting a whole new Sand Rail. |
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garyt
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Joined: June 14, 2015
Posts: 763
Location: Burgundy
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| Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 8:39 am Post subject: |
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| Just in case anyone is still reading this, I'm a bit surprised that the advice didn't include suggesting, with the original setup, that you drive around and try different settings with the distributor. This is the only way I can sort out my timing. I have a route that is in the country and go up and down a few hills and repeat this adjustment over and over. I get a big tank of petrol so I can take the time, and use a ratchet with an extension to tighten and loosen the distributor nut. Obviously doing this you have to be careful of the fan, and you need to be away from traffic. The car should be pretty warmed up too. You start to get the feel of the motor after a while. |
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andrewvwclassic
Samba Member
Joined: January 25, 2012
Posts: 920
Location: los angeles
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| Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Dual kads can be overkill on an engine. you have heard mention go fast parts and those can be just another accessory that can make an engine less reliable. one would have to know your entire engine setup to help you find what your looking for. dont look for many to tell you not to run cads here though you will find most people reccomending dual carbs of some nature. I personally find them to be a weakness for a street motor. the cross linkages sometimes need adjusting and you will need to synchronize them periodically. I would go with a webber progressive and svda setup for the street. the svda should work well with a progressive. one turn adjustment and jet changes are more convenient for a street engine I would rather be driving my car than tuning carbs. |
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