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Daughters first car... 74 Super Beetle
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PJMehaffey
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 1:55 pm    Post subject: Daughters first car... 74 Super Beetle Reply with quote

My daughter is sixteen and wanted either an old truck or VW Beetle for her first car. She's been saving her money and I found this 74 Super Beetle Standard for her in Elba Alabama. I had to put new tires on her before towing her home to Baton Rouge.

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I'm taking a "teach her how to fish" approach. She is helping with everything, so she'll be able to maintain her bug in the future.

I'll be using this space to keep track of our work and seek out your suggestions.

Since we've gotten her we have:

Adjusted the Valves
Installed New Points and gapped
Installed new Condenser
Replaced Rotor and Distributor Cap
Replaced Oil Pressure Switch
Changed Spark Plugs
Replaced missing Engine Tin
Put in missing Heater hoses
Replaced rusted out exhaust
Static Timed the motor
Degreased the underside of the motor to find the leaks

I love how easy these thing are to work on. It's got me wanting one for myself. I listed my MGB for sale so I can get one. Smile


Need/Want to do: (Definitely want your input here. Help me decide.)
Tune Carburetor (still doesn't cold start very easy) (Ifound that the electric choke is non functional... added to list)
Evaluate/replace floor pan patches.
Fix headlights (Only lights not working) ESO Problem (Equipment Superior to Operator)
Seal Floor Pan (Por 15 After repair)
Change out ignition switch (using screw driver right now)
Tighten up steering
Switch front brakes to Disc / Replace all brake lines / Bleed
Replace Electric Choke.

Added from your suggestions:
Change Fuel Lines
Get Fire Extinguisher
Change Plug wires to Bosch
Get timing light/set advanced timing
Remove/Replace Sponge Material
Repair Rot by Eyebrow Vent
Replace the shift rod bushing
Check the shift rod coupler
Relocate Fuel Filter to Front Wheel Well
Replace engine seal between the tins and the body (Already have)
Check and replace the transaxle fluid.
Check Bearings and Struts
Go through Wiring etc. for PO crap
Stock Air Cleaner
Watch Video on VW Jack with Daughter


Thanks for watching and helping us along our journey.


Last edited by PJMehaffey on Tue Aug 18, 2015 7:02 am; edited 4 times in total
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brookmp
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congratulations on the new Bug for your daughter!

I would change your fuel lines immediately. Avoid fire by changing your lines every year and check them often. The ethanol added to our fuels today is very hard on the rubber in the fuel lines and they can break down much quicker. You can buy German fuel line from any of the reputable parts vendors, such as Wolfsburg West,...etc. and the change over is easy. Can be messy if not done right, so read how in the forums.

I'd do a few searches here on fire safety with your daughter. I spend a lot of time in the Bay Window forum and there are many posts in regards to this topic over there that are very helpful.

And, ALWAYS carry a fire extinguisher in the Bug and know how to use it!

I got my first Bug when I was 18 and had a fire only a few years later. I'm older and wiser now, but learned the hard way. Definitely make fire safety part of her routine and she'll have her Bug for years.

Good luck!

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RailBoy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Due the Disk for sure, I have them on my Super and it is night and day. Contact Toplineparts.com and you can get with Topline John who is a very persanable guy and knows his stuff on Supers...

But just from a performance stand point, disk stop better on a Super plus you don't have to worry about stopping/tracking issues is what i learned... RB
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talljordan
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps have her make an account on here and read read read!

I got my bug at 15, and that made a huge difference for me. There really is no place to "start" other than maybe the FAQs in the 68+ forum. Diving right in and just absorbing information is the best way to go and helps a lot!
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Dwayne1m
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"tighten up steering" You should do a search on the Super Beetle Shimmy if you feel you have a problem with the steering. Fix it right the first time and it will probably outlast you.

I 2nd the disc brakes on the front. World of difference. I have a 74SB with front disc and a 78SB with front drum. Not even close as far as stopping efficiency. I will be converting the 78 over to disc over the winter. I like keeping them stock, but I once came down a long very steep winding hill and would not have been able to lock up the brakes if an elephant stood on the brake pedal. Luckily the road flattened out before the stop sign. Not a pleasant experience. That convinced me to convert to disc.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Change out the plug wires to Bosch.

Re-do those floor pan repairs and check under the carpet for any rust.

Get a timing light to time with. Static just gets you in the ball park on your year car. A timing light will also tell you if your distributor is advancing like it should.

The ignition switches are cheap. Replace and be done with the "screwdriver".

Go through the brakes really well and all replace the rubber lines while converting to front disc.

Check out the front end components thoroughly. As suggested, do a search on here for Super Shimmy.

Have fun.

Tim
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice find - lucky daughter.

Because they dont have all the safety features of modern cars, make sure the brakes are working the best they can (disc brakes ARE good) - it's much more important to be able to stop, than to go.

I see some cancer behind the eyebrow vents. To fix that you need to remove the sponge stuffed up inside the corners of the engine bay, get the rust cut out and repaired.

The sponge was triangular cushions in earlier years but they changed to loose sponge and this collects and holds moisture, so it encourages rust. You can wrap the sponge is plastic wrap so it can't absorb moisture, or if you can find some, get the earlier style triangular cushions.

You need something in there to reduce engine noise getting into the car.
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Dwayne1m
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you make any improvements to the interior, replace the shift rod bushing and check the shift rod coupler. It's a greasy job to replace the bushing.

Replacing the clutch and throttle cables are much easier in the home garage then aside the road or in a parking lot. New cables are cheap insurance.

Many will tell you that if the fuel filter is in the engine bay to take it out and install it either under the gas tank or above the transmission. I prefer it under the gas tank in the right front wheel well. I replaced the fuel pump on my 74SB and disassembled the old one just for kicks and giggles. In that style pump is a fine screen that filters the gas before it goes to the carb. Many people put the filter between the pump and carb. To me that defeats the purpose of the filter since the screen in the pump will catch most of the dirt. Easier to change a filter then a pump.

And make sure the engine seal between the tins and the body is in good condition.
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green71volks
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

check and replace the transaxle fluid.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If not going to replace to drums I'd just rebuild the brake system. Theres kits with stainless steel lines and new everything including the master cylinder for about 125 dollars. Laughing Also make sure she's able to change a freakin' tire.. No offense but I've seen so many people in modern cars walking because they get a flat Rolling Eyes Make sure the bearings and struts are A-okay. search for any cancer... Look for aftermarket parts and see how "original" the beast is... Look for odd or missing stuff. See if anything is PO jury rigged.... That last one is IMPORTANT!

PO's are both a blessing and a massive negative in this world. They can be your best friend with pricing, but they can be also your worst nightmare. If they went to the Red Green school of automotive theory and practice then they're the later then former. Seriously... there's some horror stories out there...

Also make sure you keep it... She'll regret it if it is ever sold, and she'll want it back so Keep it.. Even if sells it buy it from her or something so it'll be in the family.... Trust me I'm holding onto my 1968 even though 98% of the vw community would have sent it out to be crushed and sent to china to get turned into steel that would later be to sold to japan to make a Corolla.
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PJMehaffey
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone! So many new and excellent suggestions. I've added everything to the list in the first post and will continue to chip away at the ever growing list.

My first goals are to make it a safe daily driver for her so I'll be focusing on mechanics of starting/running, fire safety, brakes, suspension and steering.

Just a couple comments to clarify a few things I mentioned up top... I don't think we have the Super Beetle Shimmy. I searched and read several threads on that. I would describe it as "slop" in the steering, meaning there are a couple inches of play to the left and right of the center of steering till the steering actual changes. It's more obvious at faster speeds, but I don't feel any shaking or wobbling as I think is meant be Super Beetle Shimmy. I was thinking this could be corrected by adjustments in the steering box. Please correct me if I am wrong though, I don't want to miss anything.

As far as my daughter, I already recommended that she join the forum. I think she will. Go easy on her as she learns proper forum etiquette. Wink I have already taught her to change a tire. It is a requirement in my house before anyone drives. If you can't change a tire, you don't drive. She has done so in my driveway, by herself several times.

In reviewing some of the wiring etc. I see the previous owner took the time to use shrink tube, which signifies some manner of knowledge, or at least care to do things right. I'll keep looking for issues.

Also after looking at it last night I think I may be missing a tin from behind the fan shroud. Is there a good picture/diagram of all the tin pieces? Here's a pic of our motor.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks again everyone. More to come.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PJMehaffey wrote:
I have already taught her to change a tire. It is a requirement in my house before anyone drives. If you can't change a tire, you don't drive. She has done so in my driveway, by herself several times.



Excellent, although nobody really gets flats anymore Very Happy

Make sure also she's familiar with the somewhat interesting "widowmaker" jack that the Beetle uses. Very important to set parking brake and block a wheel if using that jack on the side of the road. Very easy for the car to roll off it. Also note that Beetle uses bolts to hold the wheel on as opposed to nuts on studs which can make getting the wheel back on a bit of a challenge until you get that first bolt in.

Beyond just changing a tire though, make sure she's up on the basic mechanics of the thing. You have a great opportunity to teach that stuff now while you are prepping the car. Things like the importance of the oil pressure light, the importance of the generator light (and why the generator light coming on while driving means STOP RIGHT NOW and check belt whereas in a "regular" car it is not such cause for concern).

She should be prepared to change the belt and tweak the points and timing on the side of the road if need be. It sounds like that's what you're doing already, that's good stuff. A lot of kids these days can't be bothered to know how this stuff works let alone how to fix it.

I would suggest that you try to locate a stock-type air cleaner so you can restore the intake air pre-heat function. Without that you may find you get a lot of carburetor icing issues on humid days. That makes for a lot of stalling and generally crappy driveability.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PJMehaffey wrote:

I was thinking this could be corrected by adjustments in the steering box. Please correct me if I am wrong though, I don't want to miss anything.


It's possible, but adjusting the steering box is the last thing you should do. First go through the front end checking for slop in wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. Then after all that is addressed, you can proceed to adjust the steering gearbox.
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PJMehaffey
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
Make sure also she's familiar with the somewhat interesting "widowmaker" jack that the Beetle uses. Make sure she's up on the basic mechanics of the thing. She should be prepared to change the belt and tweak the points and timing on the side of the road if need be. It sounds like that's what you're doing already, that's good stuff.



Yep you've got it! I'm definitely trying to prepare her for road side repair. Though we do already have the tow bar plate installed on it. Wink I'm a bit unfamiliar with the jack type myself having not used it. I know the placement points just haven't done it. I'll have to look up a video on it so we can watch it together.


sjbartnik wrote:
I would suggest that you try to locate a stock-type air cleaner so you can restore the intake air pre-heat function.


This has peaked my interest... Please expound a bit. Pictures etc...


sjbartnik wrote:
It's possible, but adjusting the steering box is the last thing you should do. First go through the front end checking for slop in wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. Then after all that is addressed, you can proceed to adjust the steering gearbox.


Duly noted. Thank you.
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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PJMehaffey wrote:

Yep you've got it! I'm definitely trying to prepare her for road side repair. Though we do already have the tow bar plate installed on it. Wink I'm a bit unfamiliar with the jack type myself having not used it. I know the placement points just haven't done it. I'll have to look up a video on it so we can watch it together.


The jack can be a bit hairy. I prefer to use a regular hydraulic floor jack when I'm working on the car in the shop. There is only one jack point on each side for the stock jack, toward the rear of the car. The rear wheel will come off the ground first and then if you keep cranking eventually the front wheel will come off the ground, but by this time the rear is quite far off the ground!

Very important to loosen/tighten the wheel bolts only when the car is securely on the ground, the torque required would easily roll the car off the jack. Not a bad idea to have a piece of wood under the back seat to use as a base for the jack as well - the jack base is not very large and can sink into hot asphalt or soft ground.

PJMehaffey wrote:

sjbartnik wrote:
I would suggest that you try to locate a stock-type air cleaner so you can restore the intake air pre-heat function.


This has peaked my interest... Please expound a bit. Pictures etc...


Sure. The stock air cleaner was an oil bath air cleaner prior to '74, I believe '73 or '74 was when they went to a paper element instead of oil bath. But anyway the stock air cleaner has provisions for crankcase breather intake and also intake air preheating.

The single carb Beetle engine has a very long spindly intake manifold that puts the carb quite far from the engine's main heat sources. When the fuel going through the carburetor and manifold is evaporating, it's taking the heat out of the air. This can cause humidity in the air to condense and freeze on the inside of the carb and intake manifold, restricting air flow and causing driveability problems. This is carb icing. It doesn't need to be below freezing outside for this to happen, it can happen on warm humid days.

VW got around this in two ways:
1) they added a heat riser pipe from the exhaust up through the tin that runs along the base of the intake manifold. You can see this inside the engine compartment. Make sure that is connected to the exhaust on both sides. Hot exhaust flows through the heat riser pipe and keeps the intake manifold warm.

2) intake air preheating. The stock air cleaner had two possible intake paths, cold fresh air entering the engine compartment through the rear decklid vents or warm air that just came off the cylinder heads under the car. There was a hose down through the tin to collect this air and a thermostatic valve in the air cleaner that determined which intake the air came from.

Looked like this (photo poached from the gallery):

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You can see the preheater hose on the right side of the engine compartment, it's the same kind of hose as used to duct air to the heat exchangers. There is also a crankcase breather hose running from the breather (located next to the oil fill cap) into the air cleaner.

And if you *don't* have the preheating system hooked up, there should be a hole in the tin there where the hose goes through - that needs to be plugged. You should not be able to see the ground from inside the engine compartment. The upper half of the engine needs to be sealed off from the lower half for proper cooling.


Quote:

Duly noted. Thank you.


With regard to the steering, don't ever expect it to be really tight like a modern car, there should be a little play in it - VW specifies "up to" an inch. I like it a bit tighter than that but it's never going to feel like a new Golf.
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PJMehaffey
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
VW got around this in two ways:
1) they added a heat riser pipe from the exhaust up through the tin that runs along the base of the intake manifold. You can see this inside the engine compartment. Make sure that is connected to the exhaust on both sides. Hot exhaust flows through the heat riser pipe and keeps the intake manifold warm.

2) intake air preheating. The stock air cleaner had two possible intake paths, cold fresh air entering the engine compartment through the rear decklid vents or warm air that just came off the cylinder heads under the car. There was a hose down through the tin to collect this air and a thermostatic valve in the air cleaner that determined which intake the air came from.


So, This car has neither of these. I have connections for the intake manifold heat option on the EMPI exhaust I put in, but I have them blocked off as I dont have the manifold with these connections.

On the stock intake set up... is there a source for these NOS? Or just new? Anyone out there have a used set up for sale, before I hit up ebay and the like?


sjbartnik wrote:
You can see the preheater hose on the right side of the engine compartment, it's the same kind of hose as used to duct air to the heat exchangers. There is also a crankcase breather hose running from the breather (located next to the oil fill cap) into the air cleaner.

And if you *don't* have the preheating system hooked up, there should be a hole in the tin there where the hose goes through - that needs to be plugged. You should not be able to see the ground from inside the engine compartment. The upper half of the engine needs to be sealed off from the lower half for proper cooling.


I was wondering what that 3rd Hose was... now I know. I had put in a tin that didn't have the 3rd hose hole. I still have the original with the manifold heat risers and the intake hose option. So, I could go back to that. Obviously I don't have either of these set ups... Do you need both, just one... If so, which is preferred?



sjbartnik wrote:
With regard to the steering, don't ever expect it to be really tight like a modern car, there should be a little play in it - VW specifies "up to" an inch. I like it a bit tighter than that but it's never going to feel like a new Golf.


Right now I've got about two inches in each direction... So definitely room for improvement.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PJMehaffey wrote:

So, This car has neither of these.


Awesome! Rolling Eyes

Quote:

On the stock intake set up... is there a source for these NOS? Or just new? Anyone out there have a used set up for sale, before I hit up ebay and the like?


Check out the classifieds here, you can find almost anything you might need.


Quote:

I was wondering what that 3rd Hose was... now I know. I had put in a tin that didn't have the 3rd hose hole. I still have the original with the manifold heat risers and the intake hose option. So, I could go back to that. Obviously I don't have either of these set ups... Do you need both, just one... If so, which is preferred?


Ideally you want both but if I had to prioritize I would think the heat riser does the most to prevent icing.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally think swapping the plug wires is overkill, but that's me.

However I would consider ditching that 009 distributor and going for a good stock Bosch SVDA. That will help eliminate any flat spot off the line you have and just generally help the car run a little smoother. The 009 doesnt pair well with the 34PICT3 carb.

Definitely get that air filter replaced with a stock one. I see your oil breather tube isn't hooked to anything right now, the stock cleaner will have a port for it.

You haven't mentioned it so I will also point out, change the oil! Who knows how old the oil in there from the PO is.

My steering slop and shimmy was due to shit tie rods, HORRIBLE ball joints, and a loose steering box. IF you need to adjust the box, it can be done from the trunk, make sure you lift both front wheels off the ground first though.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

talljordan wrote:
I personally think swapping the plug wires is overkill, but that's me.


Noted. I hadn't made this a priority in my mind.

talljordan wrote:
However I would consider ditching that 009 distributor and going for a good stock Bosch SVDA.


Is that the one with vacuum advance?

talljordan wrote:
You haven't mentioned it so I will also point out, change the oil! Who knows how old the oil in there from the PO is.


I did actually have that in mind, but didn't list it. I have a new magnetic Drain screw to go in it.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PJMehaffey wrote:

talljordan wrote:
However I would consider ditching that 009 distributor and going for a good stock Bosch SVDA.


Is that the one with vacuum advance?



SVDA stands for "Single Vacuum, Dual Advance" so yes. There are also DVDA's but I believe a SVDA is correct for you. There are many threads discussing what is the proper distributor for your carb and year.

PJMehaffey wrote:

talljordan wrote:
You haven't mentioned it so I will also point out, change the oil! Who knows how old the oil in there from the PO is.


I did actually have that in mind, but didn't list it. I have a new magnetic Drain screw to go in it.


The oil is the absolute first thing I would do, even before taking it for a test drive. If it looks really bad, I would change it, drive it for an hour or so, and change it again. That being said, I am Mr Paranoid when it comes to oil.
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