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Mitsubishi 4G63 Swap?
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 5:25 pm    Post subject: Mitsubishi 4G63 Swap? Reply with quote

Hello everyone. Has anyone ever done or heard of anyone doing a 4g63 turbo swap? I have a baja right now so size wouldnt be an issue. I know kennedy makes adapter plates.
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1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
1974 Volkswagen Superbeetle( Mitsubishi 4G63T Swap in Progress )


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Beartoe_jr
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A guy on DSMTuners did one a while back on a buggy. Shouldn't be to bad if you use DSMlink and run speed density.

Paul
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have heard of DSMlink before, but not speed density. Do you happen to know what that is or should I be searching DSM forums? Thanks !
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Beartoe_jr
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Speed density uses a GM map sensor so you don't have to use the MAF. In my opinion it makes tuning easier after you get it set up. I ran it on my 96 talon using the DSM link V3 software.

Check out that build on DSMtuners. then read up on the DSM link forum. I wish I could a 4g63 in my bug but the engine is too long to fit in the bay. Talk about cheap power.

Paul
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the extra weight in the back, do you think it would be a good idea to reindex the torsion bars up a notch?
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Beartoe_jr
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honestly don't know. you should ask some guys who have done swaps. I couldn't imagine the 4g63 being to much heavier than a subi motor
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ravewolf
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm curious as well. I've been in the DSM crowd,so I know the engines and their potential well. I've also seen the 4g powered rail,but I've never seen anyone stuff one into a baja before. My only other concern is how would a bus trans hold up to one?I know you can do a turbo swap from a first gen cummins (hx35 or hx40) and upgrade the injectors,and with software,they get holy shit power. Easy 500-550. I had a talon with a stock turbo,and it was stupidly fast for being a full interiored power windowed car. I can't imagine a Baja. I think wheelie bars would be in order. Twisted Evil
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turbobob
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not see the transaxle handling 400-600hp very well. A 250hp subi maybe if you are careful. And if your 4G63 is not making 400+hp then, well, nevermind.
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The project is underway. I have the motor, I am resealing it. I will take pictures soon. Also have suspension, braces, trans mounts to withstand the power. I am getting trans parts soon to upgrade it to handle the stock hp of the 4g63, along with a new clutch. I am going with a walbro 190 lph pump so I can use the stock FPR. Will need to get an extra nipple welded on the tank for the fuel return line. Let me take some pictures soon!
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine is a 2.0L 4G63T out of a 1990 Plymouth Laser turbo(Mitsubishi). It has roughly 95,000 on it according to the previous owner. It has a 14b TD05 stock turbo on it with aftermarket exhaust manifold. I went through it and cleaned everything up and measured oil clearances on the rod and main bearings. All bearings are in spec. I reassembled everything with assembly lube and using all OEM mitsubishi gaskets. Almost done with it. Smile

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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

alexvw wrote:
With the extra weight in the back, do you think it would be a good idea to reindex the torsion bars up a notch?


I'd consider using bigger torsion bars, not re-indexing the stock ones. I'd think about at least 24mm bars to carry the extra weight. By re-indexing them you are just preloading them more, not making them stronger and you may break them.

brad
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turbobob
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you have it all lined up! I'd love to share you project with our DSM customers, can't wait to see more of this Smile
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the car now, I was going the baja route but plan to put street tires on it with the same rims, and put on original fenders. I have a lot of fiberglass body parts for sale if anyone is interested Laughing The back is already chopped off with a cage so mounting the engine won't be a problem.

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Here are the gauges I bought to monitor the engine. The 3 black ones are glowshift and the silver one is a prosport. I wanted the prosport because it was an electronic boost gauge compared to the mechanical boost gauge. I didn't want to run a vacuum line all the way to the front.

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From left to right: Tachometer, Water temp, oil pressure, boost.
I also have a voltage gauge not shown from before. Off brand.
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Beartoe_jr
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure how well you know the 4g63 platform but if you didn't already I strongly you suggest you replace all the timing components with OEM no matter how good they look... Belt, tensioner, and pulley's. Many people fail to inspect them properly and when the motor fails they say its an unreliable power plant. 6 bolt with a 14b will be plenty for the bug. OEM crank pulley is a good choice but make sure to check the rubber holding the inner and outer piece together.

Good luck with the build!!

Paul
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here are some suspension components to keep the rear alignment straight going down the track. Inner and outer urethane torsion bar bushings, urethane trailing arm bushings, and a kafer bar to keep the frame horns tight.

For the trans, a cross shaft urethane kit, and a mid mount to keep the trans and engine from bouncing around on heavy acceleration. Also won't hurt with the heavier weight in the rear.

For the front, urethane tie rod boots (old ones are cracked), and caster fix sway bar bushings. Increasing positive caster will keep the car straight and more stable and high speeds.

I just need some warm weather here to start working! It has been in the negatives lately.
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Watch out for the...

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ravewolf
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

alexvw wrote:
The engine is a 2.0L 4G63T out of a 1990 Plymouth Laser turbo(Mitsubishi). It has roughly 95,000 on it according to the previous owner. It has a 14b TD05 stock turbo on it with aftermarket exhaust manifold. I went through it and cleaned everything up and measured oil clearances on the rod and main bearings. All bearings are in spec. I reassembled everything with assembly lube and using all OEM mitsubishi gaskets. Almost done with it. Smile

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Oh....how I miss those engines.....you're going to have a blast. Another alternative to DSMlink is the Jackal system. Cheaper but just as effective. Go over to dsmtuners.com and poke around and see about it. I haven't messed with them since 2011 so idk how things have changed. But I ran the jackal system on my car,and it was good shyat.
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For now, I wont be using a tuning program, ill keep it as stock as I can for now just for simplicity. I am hoping to get it running by summer. I am still looking for a 1990 wiring harness!
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alexvw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have decided on 28x10 R15 Mickey Thomson Street radials in the rear
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/street.php?item...&bnr=y

Still looking into front tires.
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Beartoe_jr
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know about the Jackal system but I ran DSM link on my 2g. The software is super simple to use. If for some reason you don't run all the sensors like the second o2 sensor or speed sensor you can disable some of them with DSMlink so the ecu doesn't look for them etc. I honestly believe running software will make the swap easier to tune even in stockish form. Its not to hard to find used ecu's with it already installed either.

just some food for thought

Paul
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