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Galvanize Berrien Frame?
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swampcreek
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 1:15 pm    Post subject: Galvanize Berrien Frame? Reply with quote

My engine horn broke and the rest of the 1965 pan is not far behind so it's time to rebuild. I have a 1977 donor bug so I'm going with the running gear from that and getting a Berrien Nostalgia frame. When deciding on what to do with the frame as far as paint I bumped into the idea of getting it hot dipped in galvanizing solution. The Land Rover people do this to their frames I was wondering if anyone here has tried it. It appears to be a pretty good option.

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HillBuggy
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Were I work we get stuff galvanized all the time.
It must be completely stripped … there must be no paint but light surface rust gets removed in the pre dip they do.
There can be no enclosed areas …. all tubing and whatever must have drain and vent holes.


If I was going to do it id do a lot of looking at peoples / shops quality …. It can vary dramatically
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe the frame horns a would be welded closed at the front so the molten zinc wouldn't coat the insides, which is also where you'd need its benefit the most. If its even feasible, I think it would be a lot of effort but not much more effective that a good coat of Rustoleum. Honestly I don't think structural corrosion on a new painted tube frame buggy chassis is a major issue (as long as the components that the chassis was built with were rust free to begin with)
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can always get it power coated.

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swampcreek
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 4:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That powder coat looks really nice! I don't know if this is a valid concern or not but from my LIMITED experience with powder coat I developed concerns. I had a 1997 F-250 and the rear leaf spring brackets were powder coated, moisture got through and both rotted completely through. Ever since then I've kind of become suspicious of the protection it provides. Again I will admit the leaf spring brackets were the only experience I have with powder coat except the exhaust manifolds on a jet boat (same red) but they were aluminum, and one of them came with a chip in it.
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gr8cobbler
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what I've read and experienced you really can't effectively paint galvanized metal without stripping it. That said you'll be looking at galvanized metal where most folks want to see a 'finished' surface. If you are going to romp hard in the dirt the galvanize might be dandy.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rustoleum, primer and color coat....

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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gr8cobbler wrote:
From what I've read and experienced you really can't effectively paint galvanized metal without stripping it. That said you'll be looking at galvanized metal where most folks want to see a 'finished' surface. If you are going to romp hard in the dirt the galvanize might be dandy.


This buggy has been romping around the dunes for at least 12 years and the powder coating still looks as good as it did on the day we assembled it.
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Matt Burke
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with the powder coated option. Hot dipped galvanizing is 860 degrees. Powder cures at 400. Much less stress on the metal(especially at that thickness). The finish on a powder coated surface is easier to clean and looks a lot better than the blotchy chunks of hot dipped that you get from galvanizing. The large relief holes you would have to cut in the trap areas would also be a concern for me. Powder it today and forget about it tomorrow.

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swampcreek
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt Burke wrote:
I agree with the powder coated option. Hot dipped galvanizing is 860 degrees. Powder cures at 400. Much less stress on the metal(especially at that thickness). The finish on a powder coated surface is easier to clean and looks a lot better than the blotchy chunks of hot dipped that you get from galvanizing. The large relief holes you would have to cut in the trap areas would also be a concern for me. Powder it today and forget about it tomorrow.

Matt



The high temperature of 850 deg. with the zinc oxide dip and your other points make a VERY compelling argument for powder coating. That's why I love these sites! With this as well as the other suggestions I believe I am leaning more towards powder coating.

If I decide to go with powder coat then I guess the next consideration is color. The buggy is Corvette yellow I will need to figure out should the frame be yellow as well or go for contrast and paint green or red.

We get SO much enjoyment out of this little car that when I mentioned to my wife that we would need a new frame she immediately said "get it and get it soon!".

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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Powder coating parts is nice, but I do not like it on a buggy chassis. I am a modifier and PC makes it a pain to come back to weld to and repair the finish later.

One buggy I built had/has a PC chassis and I scratched it a couple of times on the floors and could not make a decent repair. I like a good old fashioned chassis paint the is self etching and has rust inhibitors in it. This way, a little feathering of the repair area and shoot the paint back on and no one can tell I made a change or performed a repair.
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swampcreek
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We picked up the Berrien Nostalgia frame yesterday! STILL looking at options on painting or powder coating. I am also considering getting some kind of coating INSIDE the frame horns. I know I can get a little obsessive but I want to do this right so I guess as soon as I launch my boat May 1st I'll be starting on the buggy.
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crack monkey
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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ChadCook
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html

Never tried this stuff but sounds like what your looking for
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html

Never tried this stuff but sounds like what your looking for
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swampcreek
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ChadCook wrote:
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html

Never tried this stuff but sounds like what your looking for


Yeah, I'm going to use that for inside the frame horns. The rest of the frame is box channel and tube. I guess I'll start a post on Berrien Frame and ask what other welding might need to be done on a new frame (tabs,etc.) incase I decide to go the powder coat route

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ChadCook
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could always drill and tap a hole in a discrete location and spray the tube after powdercoating then put a plug in it. Or just use the body mounting holes for access if they are large enough for the tube
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