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empi cv joints
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takotruckin
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ORANGECRUSHer wrote:
Just ordered a set. My vendor's part # was A-1030 for the 19-1/4". Just under $400 TMD.
I can't wait. Been watching my phone like a hawk to see the email telling me they've shipped. I mean when I'm watching TV at 12am and have to check my emails like a shipping update will come in the middle of the night, that means I'm a little excited. Laughing


Bump, you get them yet?
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sent ya a PM I'm sure u got by now.

One thing about this kit I don't understand is the heads in the CV bolts. They look like a torx head but are really allen heads with an extra position cut into them, if that makes any sense. What you're left with is a bolt head that strips easily or doesn't work in the first place.
If someone knows what I'm talking about and knows why they're like this please enlighten me. I'm tempted to go to the hardware store and replace them all with standard allen heads which may get expensive.

I swear, one of the most expensive things I encounter working on my buggy is replacing fasteners!
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just spoke with the vendor and it's a 12point tool. Evidently 8mm. Just in case anyone is as dumb as me. Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a feeling it might be but I thought I'd wait to see what you came up with. The old bolts on my Type 1 CVs were 12-point like that. When I went to type 2 CVs, I switched to grade 8 Allen bolts. If I go to these, I'll be keeping them haha!
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have a lot of exerience wqith German cars but I guess 12 points are common. I'm used to 12 point sockets I use on my chevy driveshaft U-joint bolts. Kinda ironic I guess. Anyway, Ii don't know what the draw is to these for the Germans. Even though it's added expense, I think I just may change them out to a 8mm Allen (6point) so that I don't have to keep some odd bit handy on the buggy and worry about not finding one in a pinch. You can always find 6 points at any store.

I'll need to find the torque values for these bolts as well...
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW these seem to be nice units like Vanapplebomb keeps suggesting. My buggy isn't completed yet so I haven't had a chance to run them. In setting them up, however, I found I was able to take them all the way to 25* droop without any binding. You can tell when the axle goes from just spinning in place to a spot in the rotation that makes it jump up a bit. This is without the boots installed and turning by hand.

I set maximum droop to put me just shy of the 25*. It's hard to be certain of exactly what you have when you factor in vertical and horizontal axle angle and differences in the frame and how the trans is mounted. I have the bellhousing mounting ears which I laid a level on when I set the car on jacks then a magnetic angle finder on the axles. My back-angle is very small which may have helped me get more.

P.S. I managed to safely get 12inches of travel from my 2.5"X2.5" arms.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty sweet how those off road type 2 cv joints work, hu? parts are easy to find for stub axles for the conversion, and the cv joints are a good value, and you only fall short a couple of degrees of the 930's.

Awsome Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah with my arms, I wouldn't want to go any higher without having to radically change the front too. -not part of my plan
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takotruckin
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the update. I'll buy a set and we can see how they hold up under abuse Twisted Evil
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should hold up fantastic as long as you don't plunge them to far Wink

There are people pushing 200 ponies with these things running at max articulation, and they have held up well so far.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanapplebomb wrote:
Should hold up fantastic as long as you don't plunge them to far Wink

There are people pushing 200 ponies with these things running at max articulation, and they have held up well so far.


We shall find out. 230-250ish with 3x3s and 31's. I ran years without breaking any of my used T4s. Then I tore some boots and killed a couple joints, so I installed some remans. One of them died the first trip out, the second one the next trip Rolling Eyes Stupid parts...
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is why I buy new cv joints. The remanufactured ones never seem to last as long as the originals.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem with remanufactured CVs is that they usually machine / grind out the tunnels and go to a larger ball bearing. This removes most of the surface hardening of the CV, which will cause them to wear and pit faster.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Multi69s wrote:
The problem with remanufactured CVs is that they usually machine / grind out the tunnels and go to a larger ball bearing. This removes most of the surface hardening of the CV, which will cause them to wear and pit faster.


My problem was breaking cages.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got my CV's and boots, is the grease that they come with any good??
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Swepco 101 Moly grease.
It has worked well for extended periods of time. Over 7 thousand miles with really no signs of wear.
Comes in tubes for grease gun.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine are still holdong up well havent taken them apart since install did have to remove axles but they looked good fom just taking a peek.

Using swepco 101 also.Will remove at end of season to clean and repack will report when i do.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do new CVs always feel this loose? They are a little hard to keep together while mocking them up. They definitely hit 25 degrees without binding, but I didn't care for how much of the balls were exposed at that angle, so I kept them strapped at 18 or so. The boots are really tight against the CV bolts, but they should hold up great.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is part of the nature of the off road cv joints. They need the clearance to avoid binding prematurely.

About the boots, just don't stretch them to much or they will rip fast. EMPI makes really nice cv joints and axles, but the boots in my experience leave something to be desired. Check them somewhat periodically for cracks and tears...especially on the cv joint end. They tend to split right where the rubber meets the steel.

As for the grease, there is nothing wrong with it. Good stuff.

I do have mixed feelings about mixing and matching greases, for example, if you feel the need to add a bit more to the cv cups, or some extra under the boots. I have seen mixed grease work fine. Apparently if they are the same base it doesn't hurt. Me personally, I would just clean everything and start from scratch before mixing and matching. It is probably more just for my sanity's sake than anything else. Razz
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

takotruckin wrote:
Do new CVs always feel this loose? They are a little hard to keep together while mocking them up. They definitely hit 25 degrees without binding, but I didn't care for how much of the balls were exposed at that angle, so I kept them strapped at 18 or so. The boots are really tight against the CV bolts, but they should hold up great.


Bumping this thread. The EMPI race prep type 2 cv's are garbage. I've had them a year, and ever since the start they had problems binding. They would vibrate the entire car while making sweeping turns under power. It was not an issue off road, but driving the car on mountain roads made it feel like something was going to come apart. I thought maybe they needed to break in, but 2k miles later and they are only getting worse. The car also developed a clunk due to slop while shifting, and one or two of the CV's are wearing the splines and becoming loose on the axle shaft. I have since switched back to used 944 cvs with no problems.
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