68 Single cab revival

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[sdavidg]

I heard it a few times more but not as consistent as when at the park. On my list of things to check.

Thanks for the tips, I'll get on it and follow up with any new findings. Looking at the post a few pages back, are the carbs a limiting factor for this engine? Would it be worth looking into those offered by cbperformance.com or aircooled.net as mentioned by richparker. That's down the line but just curious

Sam

[richparker]

[Brian]

Those carbs might actually be a bit much for that engine. With the same setup it has now, changing the heads would unlock a little more power. But if you go for new carbs, then look at getting some 40 IDFs. It has 44s right now.
_________________
Wash your hands

'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter

[sdavidg]

Checked the vacuum port on the carb and no cap on it, plugged it up and tried to fire it up again with the same symptoms as before, wont idle at all but sounds good at higher RPM (~3000 or so).

I'll check the distributor next, but I need to invest in a dwell meter, I've got the timing light though. Again, looking at the previous posts and I was curious to know if it would be worth looking into Pertronix? Im all about simplicity and in reviewing them, it seems like it could help. Hopefully these aren't stupid questions.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d186604?sei...fgodR0EJOw

or

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d186504?sei...fgodFmwKaw

[Brian]

no and no. Those things are shit IMO. Another SVDA would do it well, but getting a good one can either be simple or expensive. I might have a spare one actually.
_________________
Wash your hands

'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter

[sdavidg]

Right, that's the other one I was looking info on. Looks like most are reproductions and can be crap or worth some $ if done right like you mentioned.

I'll pick up a dwell meter on my way home and see what I come up with for now.

[airschooled]

I recently saw a set of Bosch points that dwell'd at a fantastic 44*. But when I pulled them, the contact points were misaligned and crooked and causing poor spark. Instead of closing in like || the tabs were shaped like |\. One side had a pit so large that it looked like the point was disintegrating. Read fine on the meter though……

Try the Echlin points from NAPA. For SVDA use, you'll probably want to ask around for part numbers since the truck originally came with an SVSA.

Robbie
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[richparker]

[sdavidg]

Thanks all for the info. I'll do my research and continue working on a diagnosis. I'm sure ill come back with more questions and it sounds like investing in some 40 IDFs might be worth while.

Funny though, prior to the drive up the truck was able to keep idle, rough, but able to stay on. Leads me to think something came loose or the 400 miles i put in caused something to finally wear out.

[airschooled]

Also don't discount the number of beers Brian and I consumed when we "expert tuned" the carbs.

An experience performance shop should be able to dial in a nice idle.

Robbie
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[sdavidg]

duly noted. I work near Kombi Haus and Bugformance anyone have any experience with either?

[sdavidg]

Hi all,

Slow progress since the last post but getting to some things soon. I've been cleaning up some of the wiring, working on getting some of the breather lines set up for breather box, and tidying up the fuel line. Before I start on the fuel line, not leaking or anything just not a fan of the claps ans frayed ends or tape, is the braided line under any pressure? For example, if I where to disconnect would fuel freely run out. If so, would the tank need to been emptied beforehand. Below is a picture to help clarify

After looking at problems with the idle, the distributor points seemed to be quite off and after pulling the cap I found this. Small pieces seemed to be ground up inside too. Ordered an vacuum advanced SVDA with electronic ignition and eager to install soon.

Found this old school Thule ski rack that fit, added the metal shelving. Looks fine but will work on it some more

[/img]

[Tcash]

if I where to disconnect would fuel freely run out?
Fuel should flow freely. If it does not the tank is clogged.
With a 7mm vacuum cap and a hose clamp to fit it. Crawl under the bus and disconnect the fuel hose from the bottom of the fuel tank. Plug the fitting with the 7mm vacuum cap, for good measure put a hose clamp on it to hold it on.

Good luck
Tcash

like the rack

[airschooled]

So cool to see the truck out there still!

The braided metal line is the auction side from the filter located above the transaxle. Even still, the tank level determines how quickly fuel will run out due to gravity. I use hose clamping pliers personally, as they're easy and they don't damage the hose like vise grips will.

Nice find on that rotor; I've never seen that happen before, ever! I think you'll like the SVDA.

Robbie
_________________
Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
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[sdavidg]

Thanks for the tips y'all .

Trying to get this back on the road for Bugoramma next weekend. Fingers crossed.

Sam

[sdavidg]

Wow, over a year since I've posted anything on this thread. To those of you who care I'd like to provide some updates. The truck has spent a large part of the year in the garage with little things being done when I have the time.

Bigger things are coming.
1) new shoes arrived in the mail today. Grabbers going on a set of 14's i picked up a while ago. I think ill like the ride on these a little more, but I have a feeling the rear will 3-4 inches lower just from a visual mock up. I'll know more once they are mounted... to be continued (dont mint the other tires, I went a little overboard)

2) I was finally able to get a hold of the engine bay tin that has been hacked away long ago. In the picture can I expect spot welds along the red line? The idea is to remove entire plate that angles down and basically swap them out. Does anyone have a better approach?

this has saved me lots of work and produces clean cuts (thanks skillz)

For part 2. I will be pulling the motor the make this an easier job, but to also clean/repaint the engine bay to something that doesn't create a dark abyss. I'm sure more will come from this, as i'm easily convinced with the "since its out"... also to be continued.

Thanks,
Sam

[Spike0180]

I just read this whole thread though. Awesome. Just awesome. You're giving me motivation to just go get stuff done on my bus, and to stop trying to make everything 100% perfect before using it. And I now want bigger tires (which is good, because I have passenger tires right now anyways. Shhhh...)
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Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"

[sdavidg]

[busdaddy]

Yes you'll find spot welds along both edges, you'll also find a couple more under that 1/2 cone shaped doubler up in the front corner. Scrape off the seam sealer and sand the seams by hand with 40-80 grit, the welds will appear as dips.
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