1958 A T2 coupe restoration

[jan_t4]

Some more progress on bodywork. The "empty spaces" are disappearing and the metal body becomes more and more complete.

A lot of holes have to be drilled all around. The floor is a really important part for body stiffness and I don't really trust the spot welding gun all around. So I decided to drill and weld "conventionally". Not original, but feels safer for me.

Weldable primer on grinded areas.

On the front edge I drilled the pedal support to weld from underside. The tunnel front edge has to be fixed later, when tunnel is in final position.

Everything in place and fixed in position

Some additional tubes, wooden blocks and C-Clamps to bring the metal layers together.

Started in the middle at the tunnel area. First fixed both floor halfes together and walked from tunnel inside to longitudinal outside. Front edge from inside, rear edge from underside. Than continued from middle to front and middle to end.

The lower edge of the tunnel was a little thin, so I decided to drill holes in the floor and weld the tunnel from underside. Works great.

Front edge from underside

Finished welding all around from inside ...

... and outside.

After an hour of grinding it looked nice and fits really good. The rear edge to rear bulkhead is still missing.

_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[jan_t4]

To bring the seat mount in the final position on the floor, I built the speedster seat frames first to better adjust the position of the brackets. I do not have original seat frames and do not have the exact measurements. I will rebuild them from pictures from the internet.

These aluminium speedster seats should go in the car.

Mounting everything together and pre-adjusting

Building the seat frames from 35x5mm steel. Later I could build copies of steel frames in aluminium.

Measuring and drilling the hole-pattern. Repro seat rails have different hole positions than originals.

Arranging everything on a flat table

Grinding the edges to make a solid weld.

Bending the rear part and welding everything together.

Testfitting the new hinges from Stoddard.

2 seat frames are finished.

Put temporarily some washers under the inner seat rails to bring them higher, because later the carpet will sit there.

Ready for installation in the car.

Final resulting position of brackets, ready for welding to the floor.

Looks great

_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[Suboval]

Nice metal work!

Is there going to be a latch holding down the back of the seat? How safe would it be in a sudden stop without it?
_________________
It all works on paper.

There's two things we learn from history:
1.) History repeats itself.
2.) We don't learn from history.

[jan_t4]

Hi Suboval,

interesting point, but as far as I know, there are no fixing options on back of the seat. At the lower rear end, there is a screw to adjust the grade of the back rest. The parts distributors offer "rubber caps" for these single screw, to have the back a little "softer" and to avoid rattle of an unloaded seat - I think. I will place a small U-metal on the seat frame, where this rubber cab will "stick in". But this won't hold a loaded seat in a really hard sudden stop.

Sitting in these seats you have a low balance point. Could be, that they don't tilt?

Any comments from anyone using the original speedster seats?

Thanks, Jan
_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[jan_t4]

Meanwhile I finished the seat rail mount brackets.

Fixing position after seat frame installation. Inner position is fixed at the tunnel.

Drilled holes in the floor and welded from underside.

Rear bracket was to long. Measurement of floor seat depression and bracket height was not the same on both sides. Had to cut about 6mm ...

... welded the both halfes again for both brackets ...

and look at the grinded surface after re-welding.

Temporarily fixed rear bracket with seat frame installed again ...

... and finished welding rear bracket and adjusted seat rails - sits perfect in the middle of the drilled holes.

Original position before restoration ....

... and afterwards.

All rails are equal level - at front end and rear end.

Next is pedal area and lower pedal board support bracket.

_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[roy mawbey]

Jan,

Really like your floor welding technique, you can be sure of that. The finished area looks nice and good work on the seat frames and fixing.

Your work does prove a point though. Without the room to work and the holding fixure and the necessary bits and pieces you could never have attempted all that. People who think that restoring any 356 without the tools and spit is possible, will never get the same result as you.

Before this forum and Justins abcgt.com bodywork info like this, with descriptive photo's and explanation was no where near this level. I can understand the work and time involved to upload all the photos's and descriptions and this not in your own language. Much appreciated.

I do remember looking some years ago now at restoration work by John Wilhoit and seeing stage by stage work. Also so impressive but of course there was no detail in how they actually managed to do it all. A bit like magic sometimes leaves you with questions you cannot answer.

Roy
_________________
Roy
RHD356A super75 106954

[jan_t4]

Hi Roy, "thanks for the flowers".

I hope, that my work and the detailed pictures help other nonprofessionals - like me - to work on their cars. Especially 356s are not "beginner level" in full car restoration. But if you have enough time, skills and patience (and money) start your project and look for help, if you stuck somewhere.

Jan
_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[jan_t4]

Some more progress on the pedal board area. It seems to be an easy task to weld these brackets to the floor. But it is a time consuming task. If you don't do it correct, your pedals and everything won't work or will not fit together. Hope mine will do

The pedal board brackets I bought where too flat comparing to the original part I kept for measuring. The repair panels had to be rebend about 1cm to make the top edge sharper. Otherwise you will get problems fitting the wooden pedal board and the throttle base.

Before ...

... and afterwards.

To find the correct positions for drilling the pedal cluster support bracket on the underside of the floor you have to mount the pedal cluster and brake cylinder first.

Adjust everything to the correct angle and testfit the pedal boards. Drill the 3 holes at the most rear position in the slot holes. Otherwise you will not be able to remove the pedal cluster afterwards, because it has to be pulled backwards to release the 2 front bolts holding the brake cylinder.

Check the position of the bracket after drilling
Old original position ...

... replaced bracket on new floor.

I recommend to test mount all pedals, switches, throttle mechanism, ... to check free ways and everything moves correctly.

Fit pedal board to check everything, before finally welding the floor brackets.

Everything welded in place - let's start the engine for a test drive

_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[jan_t4]

Hi, I need your expert help identifying which holes in the gas tank floor area are original and what function do they have. All these marked areas look like drilled holes and not rust pin holes - but don't know exactly.

Thanks, Jan

#1 gas tank vent hose?
#2 tachometer and fast idle cable bracket (flat head bolts to underside) - original
#3 speedometer cable bracket (flat head bolts to underside) - original
#4 handbrake handle mechanism (blots from underside and nuts from this side) - original
#5 washer bottle hose to foot pump?
#6 ??
#7 ??
#8 ??
#9 ??
_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[Jacks]

You got it!
_________________
Jack Staggs
Actual name

[jan_t4]

Hi Jacks, you mean: #1-5 is correctly identified and #6-9 is not original and without any known "function" and can be closed?

Jan
_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[roy mawbey]

Jan,

I think thats exactly what Jack meant. I checked my T2 for those holes you are not sure about. I checked both sides as my car is RHD. I do not have those holes on mine. I cannot see what they would have been used for.

Roy
_________________
Roy
RHD356A super75 106954

[jan_t4]

Hi Roy, thanks for checking at your car. So I will close the holes 6-9.

Jan
_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[jan_t4]

Jack Spurs are mounted.

Original position from Porsche measurements = 415mm

Measure distance from middle of rear bolt to middle of jack spur. Testfit with rocker panel, otherwise there could be bad surprises later on.

Paint area "inside" jack spur on longitudinal to finish surface.

Drilled some holes and finally everything is prepared for welding.

Welded to longitudinal ...

... and grinded and testfitted rocker panel. Jack spur position is horizontal

Finally done other side and primered. I won't use them later on, but they are original

_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[Jacks]

Interesting discussion. I believe the pre A jack spurs are mounted further forward on the order of 20+ mm. Hmmm
_________________
Jack Staggs
Actual name

[jan_t4]

Hi Jacks, my problem was to find the correct position, because the jack spurs were not correctly mounted, when I bought the car. So I checked the literatur and found two measuremens.
- Porsche body measurement (I used)
- Ron Roland's 356 bible picture (see below)

Following Ron Roland, my jack spurs (1958 A T2) had to be positioned more backwards. I decided to take the Porsche measurement, because now the two rear heater tube support brackets are sitting under the jack spur. Don't know if it is correct or necessary, but for stability it is better - in my opinion.

Jan
_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[jan_t4]

The battery box is finally welded in place and some minor repairs on the inner side of codriver frontaxle top.

Before ...

... cutting rusty area ...

... building a patch panel ...

... and forming, welding, grinding ... repaired ...

... and finished.

That's how the battery box project started ...

Painted frontside of front axle, because now it's easier than after the battery box is in place.

Marked outer edge of front axle from outside and drilled holes to weld battery box.

Welded battery box to front axle from inside first and than the overlapping "wing-panels" afterwards

Outside after grinding.

Welding top area is a little tricky, because the original metal is really thin and you have to be careful burning holes. Not really nice results, but is fixed.

... finished and that's how battery box project ended! Another major step done

_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[Suboval]

Nicely done!
_________________
It all works on paper.

There's two things we learn from history:
1.) History repeats itself.
2.) We don't learn from history.

[jan_t4]

Hi again, the V-Diagonal-Member is in place. The underside of the car is coming to the end

Testfitting and forming replacement panel. It has the same dimension but some additional holes comparing to original - maybe for later B/C models?

Removing old weldspot of former V-bracket and cleaning for new welding.

Primered and painted V-Diagonal-Member and front floor area.

Welded in place.

At the end, everything will be finally primered and looks like original.

_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

[jan_t4]

I closed the rear opening of outer longitudinal to finish the work on the rotisserie.

None of the repair panels from the market fits. Left is for later cars, middle for earlier and the right one is build by myself and it fits.

Built a paper model which fits on both sides - result ensures that my work fits similar on both sides.

Preparing for welding: Primer on inside, black paint overlay on inside and welding primer on the edges.

Welding finished, spot welding gun on the outside. Trimmed the outer contour afterwards.

Finished and primered.

_________________
-------------------------------------------

My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964