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1958 A T2 coupe restoration
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2014 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Parcel-Tray is in.

The replacement panel (restoration-design) differs a little bit from the original A-Panel, but to change that is too much work. Originally there is a flat squared area on the outer codriver side. Restoration panel has symmetric crimps all over.
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Used some seam sealer, because later on there is no way to get there.
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Painted inside of parcel-tray and inside of body.
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Drilled lots of holes to weld in place.
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Grinding after welding.
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Weldspots from underside
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Finished grinding and primer.
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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2014 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job Jan, Good for another 60 years.

Roy
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In parallel I started working on the several mechanical parts to check the condition and complete missing parts.

I started media blasting several weeks ago and 2K Epoxy primer in black afterwards.
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Step by step all parts were blasted and clean. Put some "red rubber caps" on the bearing carrier and sealing surfaces to protect from media blasting.
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Hang-up and wired on an especially builded rotating painting frame and abraded everything before final paint. So you can paint it from every side in one session and the parts won't swing around.
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I choose Glasurit-68 2K paint system in mixture 5-1-1 for the chassis parts and accessory parts. Color is RAL 9005 deep black in semi gloss
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After painting ...
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... some example parts ...
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Everything took from painting frame and looks great. Easy painting system for great results. Meanwhile parts are a little bit dusty again from recent garage work. Will look brilliant in shelf for a while and on the car later on.
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Another step finished. And finally just pick up the finished parts with new bolts, gaskets, ... during final assembly.
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really nice work Very Happy Wiper mount plate was OG grey tho Cool No big deal
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jacks, good to know. Is there a color code for the wiper plate?

Which color war the steering tube? I looks something beige light grey on pictures.

Thanks, Jan
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know the wiper code, but light/medium grey. Steering column could be tan or ivory or light grey, depending on knobs and interior color.
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So steering column is the same color like knobs, or are there any fixed combinations? My 1958 interior was red originally (ivory outside color) and I think the hood knobs are ivory. The other knobs where missing.

Is there a Paintcode or defined mixture for the ivory steering column? I found at Stoddard a spray can in "beige" http://www.stoddard.com/chemicals-and-paint/nla-095-060-00-steering-column-beige-120z-spray-can.html but to import a spraycan from USA to Germany is expensive. So I'm looking for a paint code.

Thanks, Jan
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What color is your steering wheel?
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know if it is the correct original one. It looks like being painted black afterwards, but basic color seems to be more "light grey" than "ivory" - in my opinion. Take a look at the inner ring or the outer ends of the two wheel spokes.

Jan

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like the correct wheel that someone painted black over the original lighter color. The column, turn signal housing, and knobs would all be a similar color. The column bracket that bolts to the dash looks strange. It should have a polished aluminium bracket. The headlight switch appears to be a VW one. The hole to the left of the ignition switch is not factory. The hole above is for the wiper switch. I hope this helps.
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jacks, thanks for your infos.

The column bracket that bolts to the dash is a VW steering lock. This is probably not original and will be swaped for the polished aluminium bracket - if I ever find one. Never seen one online for sale.

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The headlight switch is VW - you are correct. I swapped it for an original Porsche one with the correct bullet sockets.

The hole to the left of the ignition switch is factory, because my car was originally delivered by factory with built in fog lights in the nose (not mounted on bumper). This is mentioned on the original cardex of my VIN. Body hole was poorly closed by previous owner. The hole in the dash must be for the fog light switch - which is missing also.

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If anybody has a original A-Model steering column mounting bracket #644 47 026 2, I will take it.

Thanks Jan
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I started looking after the front hood hinges before aligning the front hood and front fenders.

This is where everything started. Unfortunately the 2 hinges that came with the car and the wrong type front hood (T5) are different versions, one early (54-61) and one late type (61-end) as you can see at different shaped pawls. The later ones (>1961) have thinner material on pawl and ratchet wheel also. The upper one on the first picture is A-T2 correct type, the lower later type.
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Cleaned, sandblasted and Epoxy primered all hinges.
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So I sold the wrong type later one and bought a single early one. I welded the additionally drilled holes and straightened everything and aligned the hinges.
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To ensure full functionality of hinge mechanism I checked symmetry of both hinges and the result was: shit Crying or Very sad
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The pawl and ratched wheel area is symmetrical ...
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... but the ends run out of level. I have to rebend the curvature area.
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The question is, which angle is the correct one. Are there any reference values? At the end, it doesn't really matter, it just determines the maximum opening angle of front hood. Important is, that both hinges have the same angle. Otherwise the release mechanism won't work properly on both sides.But if there is correct angle, I could take it.
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Any suggestions?

Jan
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Install them on the car, then check the angles. Switch them from side to side to find the best fit first. The pockets sometimes are not even.
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_Trevor_
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:38 pm    Post subject: 356A steering column bracket Reply with quote

jan_t4 wrote:
If anybody has a original A-Model steering column mounting bracket #644 47 026 2, I will take it.


For those that may not know, here is what one looks like. Sorry Jan I can't sell you this one as I need it for my car. However, try a WTB ad on here and the 356 Registry, you're welcome to use my picture.
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "extra" holes you welded on the hinge arms were placed there by the factory, with corresponding holes in the hood flange, to allow simple alignment in case of needed hood removal. Welding them shut was a mistake. More info on hood fit can be found at Justin's site : abcgt.com

http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Proj...;start=126
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Trevor, thanks for the picture. This is exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for using your picture, because is sometimes hard to describe 'cause later B/C is different.

Hi Jacks, your are right, that the welded holes are originally by factory. The reason was, that the hood is not the original one and the holes in the hinges and the hoods don't fit. So I decided to weld all of these holes and drill 2 new ones each hinge/hood after aligning.

The abcgt-link is nice and describes the way to go.

Thanks, Jan
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some more progress on the body. Starting preparing for the work on the body outside. Everything starts from aligning the doors. Need to remove the lead before.

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Up to 4mm of lead on engine lid.
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Start aligning the doors
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Welding area of rear mask appears.
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engine lid
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the rear mask to media blast the area below and repair it.

This damaged area needs to be removed, cleaned below, repaired and welded back in place.
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Drilled the weld spots from the inside of the engine lid edge (car is upside down on the picture)
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I used a really thin cutting wheel with 0,8mm thickness.
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Marked the original welding line carefully (visible from the inside) and started cutting. Really nice and super thin cutting gap. Perfect to WIG-weld back in place later again.
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Removed the bumper fixing brackets, because of rust in between.
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These areas need media blasting and replacing partially.
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Builded the rear fender bracket with mounting bolts to fix the fender before - like original on A T2 models.
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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jan,

Very nice work. Tell me the front wing ( fender) at the closure to the front of the door has no turned over edges all lost because of rust. That is not going to be easy to get the curvature correct and matched up with the rest of the wing.

Will you just use the door as a guide for a template?

Roy
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Roy,

you are right. The rear edge at the front fenders are mostly unusable. A previous owner just welded some repair panels over the rusty edge. So I don't really trust the curvature of that old repairs.

I have repair panels for both sides and the fit really nice to the front edge of the doors. To be sure to have the right curvature, I will compare them with another A-Model body from a friend of mine. Hopefully they fit.

Jan

You can see the rusty old rear edge and the overlaying bar repair panel.
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