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1958 A T2 coupe restoration
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back from media blasting part 3 on the trailer. Brought the car for cleaning inner engine area, front area and fenders and rear area.
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Ready for primer and partial replacement.
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Repairable - a friend of mine told me, who's an expert in metal restoration things.
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Cutted front area with thin cutting disc - like rear area.
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Lots of work on front fenders is waiting. Hope to manage that.
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James Davies
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The car is looking fantastic!

jan_t4 wrote:
The replacement [parcel tray] (restoration-design) differs a little bit from the original A-Panel, but to change that is too much work. Originally there is a flat squared area on the outer codriver side. Restoration panel has symmetric crimps all over.


The Restoration Design version of the parcel tray is patterned off the panel used on the pre-A from '52 to '55. Not sure when they changed it.
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thebooger
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

James Davies wrote:
The car is looking fantastic!

jan_t4 wrote:
The replacement [parcel tray] (restoration-design) differs a little bit from the original A-Panel, but to change that is too much work. Originally there is a flat squared area on the outer codriver side. Restoration panel has symmetric crimps all over.


The Restoration Design version of the parcel tray is patterned off the panel used on the pre-A from '52 to '55. Not sure when they changed it.


The parcel tray that has the squared embossment (like Jans) was introduced in the T2 cars. But we all know how Porsche liked to use up all their inventory, parts wise.

Restoration Design is currently working on making the parcel shelf for T2 cars as well.
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info. Good to hear, that the suppliers like Restoration-Design are still completing their program. Probably not so easy, because Porsche changed so much every year/model and there are too less restoration projects for each specific part to get the costs for parts development back.

Jan
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some little progress: Epoxy Primer after media blasting on engine backside and paint removal with purple CSD-Disc on front hood.

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Right codriver rear corner needs replacement.
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 12:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before I start working on the outer skin, I built a rolling frame and put the body on it. It is better to level the car were it sits later on to align door and hood gaps - better than in a rotisserie.

Started with some rectangular tubes (100x50x4mm same as rotisserie). Some Epoxy primer left from last primer session.
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Took some cheap beetle replacement radius arm covers to have correct hole pattern and weldable mounting plate. Cheaper than measuring and drilling a thick flat bar of that size.
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Started removing the body from the rotisserie frame.
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Measuring, cutting, aligning and preparing to weld.
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Finished welding on outer rear mounting brackets for radius arms.
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Finished rolling frame. Front just sits on a wooden piece to level. I want the body to "sit free" between front and rear area.
Nice to see the car on a lower level, not always on rotisserie height. Looks different from the higher point of view Smile
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Will need that rotisserie later to finish grinding and paint preparation.
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Last edited by jan_t4 on Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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MMW
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 3:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice work as always. I like the roller frame.
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Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started aligning the front hood and reforming the inner trunk panels. There are some problems on the upper end of the hood in the area below the windscreen. Don't know how it is called correctly.

It is bumpy and lots of bondo were on top. Seems to be too low? Are there any reference pictures or measurement out here?

Started reforming inner trunk panel upper edge.
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Fixed a flexible metal ruler on top to see the surface line.
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Does the top end line needs to be lower or the bumpy area behind go higher?
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Gap between hood and body seems to be okay. A litte wider in the middle. Top edge mostly parallel between hood and body.
Will try to pull everthing a little forward, so the bumpy area will be straightened and a little more "flat" afterwards.
Any other suggestions?
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Handle holes are about 15mm outward of front hood longitudinal centerline (measured from left to right at different positions).
Is that normal?
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Last edited by jan_t4 on Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:56 am; edited 3 times in total
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MMW
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some pics of my 59 356A. Let me know if you need some other angles or pictures. I'll be away for a bit so I wouldn't be able to do it until next week.

If you have a hood handle set it on & see if it is centered, mine is. The stud is hidden behind the latch on the inside so I can't tell if it is centered or not.

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Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle


Last edited by MMW on Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:47 am; edited 1 time in total
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MMW
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few more shots.

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Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle


Last edited by MMW on Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow MMW, that was fast response and really helpful pictures. Thanks for that!

It looks like the "top line" is continuously rising over the whole front hood and area behind until the lower windscreen edge, where an additional steep rise is. With just a minor "dip" next to the lower windscreen edge.

Could you do me a favour and measure the two lines in the following picture. The straight distance and the "curved" distance. Just for indication.

Thanks, Jan

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Last edited by jan_t4 on Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:53 am; edited 1 time in total
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MMW
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok check back in a bit.
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Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle
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MMW
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the measurements & how I did it. All measurements taken at approximately the center of the windshield. The distance is 180mm from the hood opening to the lip where it bends into the windshield area. Measuring from the rule to the body every 20mm here are the dimensions. See pics. Hope it helps. I know that this car was never in any accidents & any body work that was done should not of been in this area. Family owned since new.


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Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Superb, thanks for the detailed informations. That will be a great help and support to start aligning my area over there.

Thanks, Jan
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front hood hinges and hinge pockets needs alignment. One of the hinges was bent and I was not able to re-adjust it.
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So I decided to cut it in two halfes and welded back together the right way. Now both hinges are really identical.

To align the hinge pockets I built a special tool to mount in the hinge pockets at the fixing points of original hinges.
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Now you can align the hinge pocket to bring both hinges on the same angle.
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Both hinges are parallel, so locking and unlocking works fine.
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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jan,

I looked at Mic's measurements for the bonnet to the scuttle area under the windscreen. I placed a 300mm long ruler on the middle area of the bonnet and pushed it towards the windscreen. It layed flat until 50mm from the windscreen area and then it started to raise up in an eliptical form up the the bottom of the windscreens rubber seal.

The fact the bonnet lays flat with scuttle makes for the perfect line and only after the last 50mm does it rise up.

Could take photos etc.

Roy
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Roy, that's another reference, that mine is not correct. As you can see on the body measurement outline in the repair manual, it should be a straight line rising from the front hood upwards to the windscreen lower edge.

I decided to clean everything first and ordered a C-Clamp to pull this area a little forward to straighten the metal. Will see, what happens.

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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little offtopic: Last weekend, there was a big VW-Show in the city I live. I was there with my 1967 VW Splitbus CrewCab and won "Best Bus of Show Trophy" Smile Smile Nice acknowledgement for all the hours of work.

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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking for the metal parts which needs to be repaired.

I looked at the engine shelf, which was mounted with bolts to the engine compartement, when I disassembled the car - looks original. It is 2 pieces and a little one in the middle, which bolts both sides together.

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If I check the "Restoration Design" product list, there are 2 different versions. The one for AT1/T2 looks like
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and the one for B/C looks like
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I'm a little confused, because mine looks like a mixture of both. The stamps look like later model, but the middle connection piece and the weld nuts around looks correct early model.

Does anybody know, which one is correct for my September 1958 A T2 Coupe?

Thanks, Jan
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you looked at the Simonsen-356.dk ones? They are closer to you. All the later ones are welded in, not bolted. BTW, your don't look to bad in photos.
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