1970 Squareback Project "The BIF-Mobile"

brakeman22 · Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 4:50 pm Post subject:

I've read old posts from Russ Wolfe saying that coating isn't a good idea as it may plug the small gap between the return line and the tank. I have FI, does that make a difference?

I'll use the Home Depot stuff if I have to, but are there no OEM options?

Thanks for the replies.

brakeman22 · Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:22 am Post subject:

Okay, I have a quick question. We did all the fuel lines up front and the tank should be done this afternoon.

I was going through my turn signal switch and it's definitely not the original and it has been "wired" in instead of plugged. I have a guy that has a complete column out of a 1970 but he's not sure if it's original. What's the easiest way to see if his column including turn signal switch and ignition switch is genuinely a 1970?

Thanks,
Chad

W1K1 · Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 2:01 pm Post subject:

brakeman22 · Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:10 pm Post subject:

Thanks W1K1. My square is a 1970 so I'm just trying to see if I can confirm that his column is in fact a 70 as well, or if a PO has swapped it out.

brakeman22 · Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 10:57 am Post subject:

So we're still waiting for the fuel tank to finish it's bath. Yesterday we got the new brake hoses in. The hard lines would not come out so we had to cut them and get new ones. Man, I hate bending hard lines. So we have new brake pads, new hoses, new hard lines and a new engine cover seal for good measure.

While the tank is still out I wanted to open up the steering gear box and make sure it has grease in it. I got the jam nut on the roller screw off, took off the 4 bolts holding it in and I went to back out the adjustment screw and it backed out maybe 2.5 turns and then stopped.

Do I pry the cover off or keep trying to back the screw out?

Also, do the front wheels have to be up when I adjust the roller?

Donnie strickland · Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:01 pm Post subject:

Bentley says turn the screw counterclockwise until the cover is free.

Yes, the front wheels have to be off the ground.

I don't ever open up the box unless it looks like it's been leaking. As long as it adjusts properly and steers smoothly with no slack I leave it alone. Cool

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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

brakeman22 · Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:26 pm Post subject:

Thanks Donnie. I probably should have just left it on. I got it off and it still had grease in it. Put it back together and now I'm trying to adjust the roller but I have what feels like a "flat spot" right as I pass center when I'm turning the steering wheel. Any ideas what this could be?

Donnie strickland · Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 5:09 pm Post subject:

You might want to drive the car a little and then adjust again, now that the top's been off. Sometimes it takes two or three adjustments.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

brakeman22 · Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 5:45 pm Post subject:

10-4 Donnie. I got it as best as I could. The gas tank is done so I'm going to sand the top side and give it a fresh coat of black. Quick question on the fuel "sock" that goes inside the tank; Mine was a bit collapsed. I stuck a pen inside and got it somewhat back to it's original shape. It was perfectly clean. Am I okay to run with it or should I replace it? Here's a pic:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Donnie strickland · Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:05 pm Post subject:

Looks good -- and no rust, even.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

brakeman22 · Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:16 pm Post subject:

Thanks a bunch, Donnie. You've been a huge help! I think I have my work cut out for me tomorrow. I'll report back with any questions.

brakeman22 · Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:09 pm Post subject:

Can someone come up with the part number for the 1970 year turn signal switch? From searching I'm coming up with this: 311 953-503AE If someone could confirm, that would be great.

Thanks!

Bobnotch · Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 7:42 am Post subject:

brakeman22 · Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:55 am Post subject:

Bob, I got that part # from this thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=488804&highlight=311+953503ae

Here's a picture from the assembly:
http://imgur.com/YzzTc4A

I'm gonna roll the dice as I'm getting the whole column and I'm sure I can sell it if I need to.

brakeman22 · Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:16 pm Post subject:

Alright, everything up front is back in, I sanded and painted the top of the fuel tank just so I could get the feeling of having something "new" in the car. Everything back together and took her for a test drive. The pedal is still a little soft so we'll have to bleed through the brakes again but everything else seems fine. On to the rear now:

Pulled the drums off and one of them has a nick taken off. Hopefully this isn't a dumb question but will running it like this be a problem? Here is a pic:

I was gonna take them in to get turned, but I want to see what you guys think first.

Thanks!

EDIT: Moot point, the drums are out of spec. Time to get new ones.

Bobnotch · Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 6:02 pm Post subject:

How far out of spec are they? That missing chunk is on the outside, not the brake surface. It might cause a slight vibration, but that's it.
Just so you know, the new drums that are being offered are made out of solid cast iron (versus steel and cast iron), and they have some problems of their own. See imz8478's thread about needing correct rotors, as at the end of page 1 of that thread his troubles with the new drums start. Shocked

If you need new drums, the best advice I can give, is to look thru the classifieds, and see if you can find either a good set of used ones, or go NOS, and hope you don't have a problem like Max Welton did last year.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

brakeman22 · Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 7:00 pm Post subject:

Thanks Bob, I was reading up on old threads and I came across a lot of good information right along the lines of what you're saying. My brother took them in so I'm not sure exactly how far off they are. I'll check them in the morning against the Bentley specs and go from there.

brakeman22 · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:24 pm Post subject:

Alright, so we made our way back into the engine bay today. We adjusted the valves and replaced all the fuel lines. It ran a lot better but I still have a hunt at idle once it warms up which I know is from a vacuum leak somewhere.

I figured while we're doing fuel lines I'll pull the injectors and the intake manifold runners. I was wondering what to look for with the seals on the intake runners. Mine look pretty beat up and I'd like to replace them but I can't find anywhere that has them new. Do I have to find good used ones?

Also, what is this port that is plugged on the bottom of the intake air distributor?

Thanks!

nassau66427 · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:05 pm Post subject:

I'll give you a bump to the top in hope that you can get an answer before your thread gets buried.

Also - I'd like to know too. Smile

Donnie strickland · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:43 pm Post subject:

Tram might know -- would that be the port for a pneumatic deceleration valve? See the diagram:

http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/ttt/engine/fuel_injection/hoses.jpg
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback


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