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1970 Squareback Project "The BIF-Mobile"
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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Could you turn the engine upside down to get the washers to fall back down where you could reach them? Confused


I tried that, but I think because they have a little bit of grease on them they are "sticking" wherever they are stuck.

Quote:
That's an idea...

You can pull the heads and cylinders, and you'd have to retorque the heads on installation. Keep fishing for now. Smile

EDIT: Never mind, I see you already pulled the head.


I've fished and fished. The only thing I can think is that they fell between the camshaft gear and the case and are somewhere in there. I'm taking a break for a while, maybe for the afternoon. Maybe I can get some sort of vacuum or compressed air and shoot in there to free them up. I'm going crazy! Crying or Very sad
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="brakeman22"]
Quote:
Maybe I can get some sort of vacuum or compressed air and shoot in there to free them up.


That was going to be my next suggestion. Get a piece of pantyhose or something and put it over the end of the vacuum cleaner hose and see what you can come up with.

I have used tape to wrap a piece of fuel line in the end of a vacuum cleaner hose to get it in really tight spots.
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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, so I'm on the verge of giving up and I make a breakthrough. I found the washer. It's right where my screwdriver is pointing. If I use my 20lb. pull magnet I can hear it moving:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have ordered a nice 80 lb. pull magnet from McMaster and I'm going to pick that up today.

My question now is if I remove the oil pressure relief valve does it connect and could I maybe pull the washer out there?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What are your thoughts?

Thanks!
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you are dealing with the thin section of the case that can only be reached through the top distributor/fuel pump hole or the oil pump hole


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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So if I pulled the oil pump, do you think I would have access to get there?
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup
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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I pulled the oil pump. There is a small area of clearance but I still can't get to the shims. I can hear them moving in there, but I can't seem to touch them. I used a needle to try and drag them up but I can't feel them. I'm just about out of ideas. I got a small magnet, I mean really small and I was thinking maybe I could use a pin prick of glue to get it to stick on the cam gear and then spin the engine so the magnet goes down and maybe pick it up then rotate the engine back up. What do you think about that? If there was a little glue residue after I got the magnet off would that mess anything up?

I'm about to bring it down to Gary Berg but that's gonna run me about $800 for a disassemble and reassembly so if you guys can help me out with any other options I'm all ears!

Thanks for the help so far!
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually tape one of my rare earth magnets to a wire for jobs like this.
That way you can bend it to fit in tight spots or around corners, the magnet likes to stick to everything steel though.
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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HOLY SHIT!!!!! I GOT EM! POSSIBLY THE GREATEST SIGHT I HAVE EVER SEEN:

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So I drilled a hole in this tiny magnet, tied a sewing thread to it, dropped it into one of the valleys of the cam shaft gear, pulled the string down through the oil pump hole so I could keep it tight while I rotated the engine. I heard the washers clink, held the thread tight as I rotated the engine back up and HOLY SHIT! THEY WERE THERE!

I was just about ready to give it up. Thanks so much for your help, Donnie and W1K1. My stomach feels so much better now!


Last edited by brakeman22 on Fri Feb 21, 2014 9:12 pm; edited 1 time in total
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turn it upside down and shake? Wink

Actually, fishing and jiggling should be done with it upside down so if you manage to jar it loose, you have a chance of it travelling further "up" to be fetched with a magnet.
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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Phil. I tried working upside down, but I couldn't get light in there to see. I just got it out after two days of absolute frustration. It's incredible how two little bastards will ruin a couple days.
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outstanding! Now never do that again. Smile
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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, definitely not going to let that happen again.

Alright, so now I've got to start putting it back together. I have a couple questions. The pistons were exposed when I had them off the cylinder.

Will a lint free rag, solvent and then a light spray with wd-40 be okay to clean them?

Second, it looks like the assembler just used permatex to seal between the cylinder and the case. Should I just scrape that off and do the same, no need for a paper gasket?

Last, the top right (fan side) engine stud came loose when I pulled the head. When I tighten that up, is it just tighten until it's firm? I imagine when I'm torquing down the heads that will also tighten it somewhat.

Thanks guys!
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think you need WD40. Wipe them and drench them in oil again.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy some loctite 515 or 518 for your sealing. Looks like lumpy silicone RTV they used, big no no if that is what that is
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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, so I got one piston back in and now I'm looking at the other one and I see this ding in the side of it:

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What can I do about that? I'm a little worried about some of these things and now I'm unsure if the assembler knew what he was doing. I took it to Rimco because I thought they had a good reputation but now I'm wondering. What should I do?
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not ideal, but you can use a file to smooth it out until there's no chance it could leave a mark on the cylinder wall. Check the wall to make sure it's still OK.
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catbox
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove the high spots with a file and you will be fine.
Just clean the piston and rings real well afterwards.
It will not affect anything.
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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I'm gonna get on this tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the long block reassembled before I take off and my brother can work on it while I'm gone. The cylinder wall looked okay.
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brakeman22
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In regards to the compression ring gaps, where do you guys usually locate these. I have found quite a few different answers and I'm wondering which one is best. From the Bentley, it just says staggered 90 degrees apart, from a few youtube videos they put both of them lined up facing up, and from muir he's got them somewhere around 8 oclock and 4 oclock. I'm leaning towards that, 8 and 4 as that would also comply with the Bentley 90 degrees apart.

What do you guys do?

Thanks!
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